ABS FORD SIERRA 1988 2.G SOHC Engines Workshop Manual

31Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine. The engine should be supported
horizontally, ie do not allow it to tilt front to rear.
32Raise the engine until the engine
mountings are clear of the crossmember then
pull the engine forwards to disconnect it from
the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is
adequately supported, and take care not to
strain the gearbox input shaft. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the gearbox.
33Once clear of the gearbox, lift the engine
from the vehicle, taking care not to damage
the radiator fins.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,
where applicable, disconnect the kickdown
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold.
2Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
transmission bolts which are accessible from
the engine compartment. Note the location of
the earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket.
3Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 20 to 24 inclusive.
4Working through the starter motor aperture,
unscrew the four torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn the
crankshaft, using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
5Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-
to-transmission bolts, and remove the bolt
from the engine adapter plate. Where
applicable pull the blanking plug from the
adapter plate.
6Remove the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
from the engine and transmission.
7Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
support the transmission with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the transmission to spread the load.
8Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 30 and 31.
9Raise the engine until the engine mountings
are clear of the crossmember, then pull the
engine forwards to disconnect it from the
transmission. Ensure that the torque converter
is held firmly in place in the transmission
housing, otherwise it could fall out resulting in
fluid spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the engine a little to release
it from the transmission.
10Once clear of the transmission lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage the radiator fins.Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive.
2Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
3Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the
gear lever knob and remove the centre
console. Where a full length console is fitted,
it is only necessary to remove the front tray.
4Detach the outer gaiter from the retaining
frame and withdraw it over the gear lever.
5Unscrew the securing screws on early
models, or release the clips on later models,
and remove the gaiter retaining frame and
inner gaiter.
6Using a suitable Torx key, remove the
screws securing the gear lever to the gearbox
extension housing, and withdraw the gear
lever. Note how the base of the gear lever
locates over the selector shaft.
7Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
Ensure that there is sufficient working room
beneath the vehicle.
8To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system.
9Remove the propeller shaft.
10Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
11Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 27 and 28.
12Drain the engine oil into a container.
13Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
14Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch.
15Remove the retaining circlip, and
withdraw the speedometer cable from the
gearbox extension housing.
16Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
17Unscrew the four bolts securing the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the gearbox and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup and where applicable the
exhaust mounting bracket and heat shield.
18Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the en-
gine/gearbox assembly.19Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
the engine/gearbox assembly will assume a
steep angle of approximately 40¼ to 45¼ as it is
being removed.
20Raise the engine/gearbox so that the
engine mountings are clear of the
crossmember, then ease the assembly
forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
jack which is supporting the gearbox. Lift the
assembly from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage surrounding components (see
illustration).
21With the engine/gearbox assembly
removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll bar
to the underbody if the vehicle is to be moved.
Separation
22To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.
23Remove the starter motor.
24Support the engine and gearbox
horizontally on blocks of wood.
25Unscrew the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-gearbox brace from
the engine and gearbox.
26Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
gearbox bolts, noting the location of the earth
strap, and remove the bolt from the engine
adapter plate.
27Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
Note: Refer to the warning in Section 8 before
proceeding. A suitable hoist and lifting tackle
will be required for this operation. Any
suspected faults in the automatic transmission
should be referred to a Ford dealer or
automatic transmission specialist before
removal of the unit, as the specialist fault
diagnosis equipment is designed to operate
with the transmission in the vehicle.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 9,
paragraphs 1 to 17 inclusive, but additionally,
12Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
removal and separation
11Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - removal and
separation
10Engine - removal leaving
automatic transmission in
vehicle
SOHC engines 2A¥9
2A
11.20 Lifting the engine/gearbox assembly
from the vehicle

where applicable disconnect the kickdown
cable from the carburettor/inlet manifold.
2Note the location of the earth strap on the
rear inlet manifold stud, then remove the nut
and disconnect the strap.
3Jack up the vehicle and support on axle
stands (see ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
Ensure that there is sufficient working room
beneath the vehicle.
4To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system.
5Remove the propeller shaft.
6Where applicable bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts, in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar U-clamps to the
vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll bar as
far as possible.
7Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
the open ends of the pipes and the
transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
leakage. Remove the fluid cooler pipe bracket
from the engine mounting bracket, and place
it to one side.
8Remove the two clips securing the selector
rod, and detach the selector rod from the
manual selector lever, and the selector lever
on the transmission.
9Disconnect the kickdown cable from the
lever on the transmission, and where
applicable, detach the cable from the bracket
on the transmission. On C3 type transmissions
it will be necessary to unscrew the locknut in
order to remove the cable from the bracket.
Withdraw the cable from the vehicle.
10Disconnect the wiring from the starter
inhibitor/reversing lamp switch and where
applicable, on A4LD type transmissions, the
kickdown solenoid and the lock-up clutch.
11Remove the securing screw, and
disconnect the speedometer cable from the
transmission extension housing. Plug the
opening in the transmission to prevent dirt
ingress.
12Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
vacuum diaphragm unit, and unclip the pipe
from its securing bracket on the transmission
housing where applicable.
13Drain the engine oil into a suitable
container.
14Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember. Recover the washers.
15Support the transmission with a trolley
jack, using a block of wood to spread the load.
16Unscrew the four bolts securing the
transmission crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Note the position of the earth
strap, where applicable. Unscrew the central
bolt securing the crossmember to the
transmission and remove the crossmember.
Recover the mounting cup and where
applicable the exhaust mounting bracket.
17Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
engine/transmission assembly.18Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head. Arrange the lifting tackle so that
the engine/transmission assembly will assume
a steep angle of approximately 40¼ to 45¼ as it
is being removed.
19Raise the engine/transmission so that the
engine mountings are clear of the
crossmember, then ease the assembly
forwards, at the same time lowering the trolley
jack which is supporting the transmission. Lift
the assembly from the vehicle, taking care not
to damage surrounding components.
20With the engine/transmission assembly
removed, temporarily reconnect the anti-roll
bar to the underbody if the vehicle is to be
moved.
Separation
21To separate the engine from the
transmission, proceed as follows.
22Remove the starter motor.
23Support the engine and transmission
horizontally on blocks of wood.
24Working through the starter motor
aperture, unscrew the four torque converter-
to-driveplate nuts. It will be necessary to turn
the crankshaft using a suitable spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt in order to gain access
to each nut in turn through the aperture.
25Unscrew the two securing bolts and
disconnect the engine-to-transmission brace
from the engine and transmission.
26Unscrew and remove the engine-to-
transmission bolts, noting the locations of the
earth strap, vacuum pipe bracket, and
transmission dipstick tube bracket. Remove
the bolt from the engine adapter plate, and
where applicable pull the blanking plug from
the adapter plate.
27Pull the engine and transmission apart,
ensuring that the torque converter is held
firmly in place in the transmission housing,
otherwise it could fall out resulting in fluid
spillage and possible damage. It may be
necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
1Reverse the procedure described in Section
9, noting the following points:
2Before attempting to refit the engine, check
that the clutch friction disc is centralised. This
is necessary to ensure that the gearbox input
shaft splines will pass through the splines in
the centre of the friction disc.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
4Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
5Refit the exhaust downpipe.
6Reconnect the clutch cable to the release
arm, ensuring that it is routed as noted during
removal. 7Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
8Fill the cooling system.
9Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator and where applicable the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
10Adjust the throttle cable.
1Reverse the procedure described in Section
10, noting the following points:
2Check that the engine adapter plate is
correctly positioned on its locating dowels.
3As the torque converter is only loosely
engaged in the transmission, care must be
taken to prevent the torque converter from
falling out forwards. When the torque
converter hub is fully engaged with the fluid
pump drivegear in the transmission, distance
ÒAÓ in illustration 2.24 of Chapter 7B must be
as specified. Incorrect installation of the
torque converter will result in damage to the
transmission.
4As the engine is installed, guide the torque
converter studs through the holes in the
driveplate, noting that on the C3 type
transmission, the torque converter fluid drain
plug must line up with the opening in the
driveplate (see illustration 2.25 in Chapter 7B).
When the engine is positioned flush with the
engine adapter plate and the transmission
housing, check that the torque converter is
free to move axially a small amount before
refitting and tightening the engine-to-
transmission bolts.
5Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
6Refit the exhaust downpipe.
7Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
8Fill the cooling system.
9Check and if necessary adjust the tension
of the alternator and where applicable the
power steering pump drivebelt(s).
10Adjust the throttle cable.
11Where applicable, adjust the kickdown
cable.
1Reverse the procedure described in Section
11, noting the following points.
2Before attempting to reconnect the engine
to the gearbox, check that the clutch friction
disc is centralised. This is to ensure that the
gearbox input shaft splines will pass through
the splines in the centre of the friction disc.
3Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
15Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - reconnection and
refitting
14Engine - refitting (automatic
transmission in vehicle)
13Engine - refitting (manual
gearbox in vehicle)
2A¥10SOHC engines

wires, hoses, pipes and cables, otherwise,
unbolt the manifold and move it to one side,
ensuring that it is adequately supported.
11If not already done, unclip any wires and
hoses from the camshaft cover, noting their
locations for use when refitting, and on fuel
injection models unbolt the bracing strut
securing the inlet manifold to the right-hand
side of the cylinder head.
12If desired, remove the thermostat and
housing, and the temperature gauge sender.
13Proceed as described in Section 21 for
cylinder head removal.
Refitting
14With the cylinder head refitted as
described in Section 21, proceed as follows.
15Where applicable, refit the temperature
gauge sender and the thermostat and
housing.
16Refit the manifolds and/or reconnect all
wires, hoses, pipes and cables, as applicable.
17Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold, using a new gasket.
18Refit the coolant hose to the clip on the
exhaust manifold hot air shroud.
19Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the
HT leads.
20Reconnect the temperature gauge sender
wiring.
21Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing.
22Fill the cooling system.
23If not already done, refit any hoses and
wires to the camshaft cover, as noted during
removal, and on fuel injection models refit the
inlet manifold bracing strut. If splined type
cylinder head bolts have been used, leave
these operations until the bolts have been
finally tightened after running the engine.
24Refit the air cleaner on carburettor
models.
25Reconnect the battery negative lead.
26If splined type cylinder head bolts have
been used, start the engine and run it at 1000
rpm for 15 minutes, then stop the engine,
remove the air cleaner and the camshaft cover
as described previously, and finally tighten the
cylinder head bolts to the fourth stage (see
Specifications). Refit the camshaft cover on
completion, then refit any hoses and wires,
and on fuel injection models the inlet manifold
bracing strut. Refit the air cleaner.Note: Up to early 1984, splined type cylinder
head bolts were used, and from early 1984,
size T55 Torx bolts were used. Torx type bolts
must always be renewed after slackening. The
two types of bolts are interchangeable, but
only in complete sets - the two types must not
be mixed on the same engine. A suitable
special socket will be required for removal of
the bolts, and a new cylinder head gasket
must be used when refitting.
Removal
1With the manifolds removed, proceed as
follows.
2Remove the timing belt.
3Where applicable, disconnect the breather
hose from the camshaft cover.
4Unscrew the ten securing bolts and remove
the camshaft cover and gasket. Take care not
to lose the spacer plates which fit under the
bolt heads, where applicable.
5Using the relevant special socket, unscrew
the ten cylinder head bolts half a turn at a time
in the reverse order to that shown for
tightening.
6With the bolts removed, lift the cylinder
head from the block. If the cylinder head is
stuck, tap it free with a wooden mallet. Place
the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
prevent damage to the valves.
7Recover the gasket.
Refitting
8Commence refitting as follows.
9With the cylinder head supported on blocks
of wood, check and if necessary adjust thevalve clearances. This work is easier to carry
out on the bench rather than in the vehicle.
10Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
approximately 20 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent any damage to
open valves.
11Make sure that the mating faces of the
cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
clean, then locate the new gasket on the
block making sure that all the internal holes
are aligned (see illustration). Do not use
jointing compound.
12Turn the camshaft so that the TDC pointer
on the camshaft sprocket backplate is aligned
with the indentation on the front of the
cylinder head.
13Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket.
The help of an assistant will ensure that the
gasket is not dislodged.
14Lightly oil the cylinder head bolt threads
and heads, then insert the bolts into their
locations in the cylinder head. Note that if the
original bolts were of the Torx type, new bolts
must be used when refitting.
15Using the relevant special socket, tighten
the bolts in the correct sequence (see
illustration)to the stages given in the
Specifications. Note that the bolt tightening
stages are different for splined and Torx type
bolts. If splined type bolts are used, they must
be finally tightened to the fourth stage after
the engine has been run for 15 minutes (see
Specifications).
16Check the condition of the camshaft
cover gasket and renew if necessary. Fit the
gasket to the camshaft cover, ensuring that
the locating tabs and dovetails are correctly
located, then refit the camshaft cover and
tighten the securing bolts in the order shown
(see Chapter 1, Section 23), ensuring that the
spacer plates are in position under the bolt
heads, where applicable.
17Where applicable, reconnect the breather
hose to the camshaft cover.
18Refit the timing belt.
21Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine removed)
SOHC engines 2A¥15
2A
21.15 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
21.11 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket
Tap a stuck cylinder head
free with a wooden mallet.
Do not insert a lever into the
head joint as this may
damage the mating faces.

3Clean the oil seal housing, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube or
socket. Make sure that the seal lip faces into
the engine and lightly smear the lip with clean
engine oil.
4Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
Note: New gaskets and sealing strips will be
required for refitting, and sealing compound
will be required to coat the gasket faces.
Removal
1If the engine is in the vehicle, proceed as
follows, otherwise proceed to paragraph 12.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.3Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
ÒJacking and Vehicle SupportÓ).
4Drain the engine oil into a container.
5Remove the starter motor, if necessary.
6Unscrew the nuts or bolts, as applicable,
securing the engine mountings to the
crossmember.
7Working in the engine compartment,
unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate
shaft to the steering column, swivel the clamp
plate to one side, and disconnect the
intermediate shaft.
8Where applicable, detach the brake lines
from the crossmember.
9Support the engine using a hoist, or a bar
and blocks of wood resting on the suspension
turrets (see illustrations). Attach the lifting
tackle to the engine lifting brackets on the
cylinder head. If using a support bar, the
engine may be lifted slightly by using the baras a lever before resting it on the wooden
blocks.
10Support the front crossmember with a
trolley jack, then unscrew the bolts securing
the crossmember to the underbody (see
illustration).
11Lower the crossmember just enough to
give sufficient clearance to remove the sump
(see illustrations).
12Unscrew the twenty-three securing bolts
and withdraw the sump (see illustration). If
the sump is stuck, carefully tap it sideways to
free it. Do not prise between the mating faces.
Note that if the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep the engine upright until the
sump has been removed to prevent sludge
from entering the engine internals.
13Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.
14Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
Refitting
15Commence refitting by applying sealing
compound (available from a Ford dealer) to
the corners of the front and rear rubber
sealing strip locations in the cylinder block,
then press the sealing strips into the grooves
in the rear main bearing cap and the
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustrations).
16Apply a little sealing compound to the
mating face of the cylinder block, then place
the sump gaskets in position, ensuring that
the end tabs locate correctly beneath the
rubber sealing strips (see illustration).
17Locate the sump on the gaskets and
loosely fit the securing bolts.
29Sump - removal and refitting
2A¥20SOHC engines
29.9a Make up wooden blocks to fit the
front suspension turrets and support a
metal bar . . .29.10 Unscrew the front crossmember
securing bolts
29.15b . . . then fit the rubber sealing strips29.15a Apply sealing compound . . .29.12 Unscrew the securing bolts and
withdraw the sump
29.11b . . . to give sufficient clearance for
sump removal29.11a Lower the suspension . . .
29.9b . . . which will support the engine

18Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence
(see illustration)noting the two stages given
in the Specifications. Tighten to the first stage
in a clockwise sequence starting at point ÒAÓ,
then tighten to the second stage in a
clockwise sequence starting at point ÒBÓ.
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has
been running for twenty minutes.
19If the engine is in the vehicle proceed as
follows.
20Carefully lift the crossmember with the
jack, then refit the securing bolts and tighten
to the specified torque.
21Withdraw the jack, then lower the engine
and remove the lifting tackle.
22Where applicable, refit the brake lines to
the crossmember.
23Ensure that the front wheels are pointing
straight ahead and that the steering wheel is
centred, then reconnect the intermediate shaft
to the steering column. Secure the clamp
plate with the bolt.
24Refit the engine mounting bolts andtighten to the specified torque.
25Refit the starter motor.
26Lower the vehicle to the ground.
27Ensure that the sump drain plug is fitted,
then fill the engine with the correct quantity
and grade of oil. If necessary, renew the oil
filter before filling the engine with oil.
28Reconnect the battery negative lead.
29Start the engine and check for leaks
around the sump, and where applicable the oil
filter. When the engine is started, there may
be a delay in the extinguishing of the oil
pressure warning lamp while the system
pressurises.
30Run the engine for twenty minutes then
stop the engine and tighten the sump bolts to
the third stage given in the Specifications,
starting at the point ÒAÓ shown and working
clockwise.
31Check the oil level.
32Dispose of any old engine oil safely. Do
not pour it down a drain - this is illegal and
causes pollution.
Removal
1Remove the sump.
2Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube
and strainer to the cylinder block (see
illustration).
3Using a suitable splined socket, unscrew
the two securing bolts and withdraw the oil
pump and strainer (see illustration).
4If desired, the hexagon-shaped driveshaft
can be withdrawn, but note which way roundit is fitted (see illustration). The driveshaft
engages with the lower end of the distributor
driveshaft.
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil
pump and cylinder block.
Refitting
6Commence refitting by inserting the oil
pump driveshaft into the cylinder block in its
previously noted position.
7Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
turning it by hand.
8Fit the pump, insert the securing bolts, and
tighten them to the specified torque.
9Fit the pick-up tube securing bolt and
tighten it.
10Refit the sump.
Note: A new pressure relief valve plug and
pick-up tube gasket will be required for
reassembly.
Dismantling
1If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts and the cost
of a new pump. Examine the pump as
described in this Section and then decide
whether renewal or repair is the best course of
action.
2Unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer.
Recover the gasket.
3Unscrew the three securing bolts and
remove the oil pump cover (see illustration).
31Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
30Oil pump - removal and
refitting
SOHC engines 2A¥21
2A
30.2 Unscrewing the oil pick-up tube
securing bolt
30.4 Withdrawing the oil pump driveshaft30.3 Unscrewing an oil pump securing bolt
29.18 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
refer to text29.16 Locate the sump gasket end tabs
beneath the rubber sealing strips
31.3 Exploded view of the oil pump
A Body
B Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D Cover
E Strainer
F Pick-up tube
G Gasket
H Pressure relief valve