engine FORD SIERRA 1993 2.G Reference Workshop Manual

REF•2
Vehicle identification number (VIN) plate details
1 Type approval number
2 Vehicle identification number (VIN)
3 Gross vehicle weight
4 Gross train weight
5 Permitted front axle loading6 Permitted rear axle loading
7 LHD or RHD
8 Engine code
9 Transmission code
10 Final drive code11 Interior trim code
12 Vehicle type number
13 Blank
14 Paint code
15 Blank

Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean.
Our advice regarding spare part sources is
as follows.
Officially-appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy
materials and components needed for themaintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).
Components of this nature sold by a
reputable shop are of the same standard as
those used by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found not far from
home. Some accessory shops have parts
counters where the components needed for
almost any repair job can be purchased or
ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves, alternator brushes). They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or death.
Second-hand components or assemblies
obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIY mechanic.
Vehicle identification numbers
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spareparts lists are compiled upon a numerical
basis, the individual vehicle identification
numbers being essential to correct
identification of the component concerned.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture, body and engine
numbers, as appropriate.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
plate is mounted on the right-hand side of the
body front panel, and may be seen once the
bonnet is open (see illustration).Besides the
VIN it also carries information on vehicle
equipment and permissible loads.
The engine numberis situated on the
cylinder block. On SOHC engines, the number
is located on the right-hand side of thecylinder block in front of the engine mounting
bracket. On 1.8 litre (R2A) CVH engines, the
number is located on the front upper
right-hand side of the cylinder block. On 1.6
and 1.8 litre (R6A) CVH engines, the engine
number is stamped on the front lower face of
the cylinder block, on the alternator side of
the timing cover. On DOHC engines, the
engine number is stamped on the front face of
the cylinder block, below the upper timing
chain cover (see illustrations)..
Other identification numbers or codes are
stamped on major items such as the gearbox,
final drive housing, distributor etc. These
numbers are unlikely to be needed by the
home mechanic.
Buying spare parts REF•3
Engine code (A) and engine number (B)
locations - SOHC engines
Engine number location -
1.8 litre (R2A) CVH engineEngine number code sticker and engine
number location (A) - DOHC engineEngine number location -
1.6 litre CVH engine
A Engine code B Engine number
REF
Vehicle identification numbers

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and
dry, with all traces of old gasket removed.
When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is
not likely to score or damage the face, and
remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or
fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted withits face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew the
stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before
installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could
cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of tightening
should always have a washer between it and the
relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt or
stud thread. However, it should be noted that
self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their
effectiveness after long periods of use, and insuch cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
REF•4General Repair Procedures
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain. To
find the location of
your local oil
recycling bank,
call this number
free.

Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references to
these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of
this manual. Generally, an alternative method
of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
MValve spring compressor
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor
MPiston ring removal/installation tool
MCylinder bore hone
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers
MDial gauge
MStroboscopic timing light
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
MClutch plate alignment set
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
MStud extractors
MTap and die set
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at
reasonable prices, but always aim to
purchase items which meet the relevant
national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the
proprietor or manager of the shop for advice
before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked, and
screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades
from time to time. A little timely attention withemery cloth or a file will soon restore items like
this to a good serviceable finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out,
some form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a
jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most
jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean
dry storage space is also required for tools, as
well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,
touch-up paints and so on, which become
necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
REF•6Tools and working facilities
Stroboscopic timing lightCylinder compression gaugeClutch plate alignment set
Micrometer setVernier calipers

MOT test checksREF•7
REF
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeMTest the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
MCheck that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
MDepress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.MCheck that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
MCheck the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
MExamine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
MMove the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
MCheck that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormalmovement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
MThe windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

MOTtest checksREF•9
REF
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

REF•10MOTtest checks
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test
can be carried out later to check that the
vehicle pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-
bearing areas. (These include chassis box
sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars,
and all suspension, steering, braking system
and seat belt mountings and anchorages.)
Any corrosion which has seriously reduced
the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow
the engine speed to return to idle, and watchfor smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000
rpm; if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less,
this counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according
to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are
inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is
comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical
failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which
do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried
in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, alittle detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or
spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow provide an easy-reference guide to the more
common problems which may occur during the operation of the
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under
Fault diagnosisREF•11
REF
Engine
MEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
MStarter motor turns engine slowly
MEngine rotates, but will not start
MEngine difficult to start when cold
MEngine difficult to start when hot
MStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
MEngine starts, but stops immediately
MEngine idles erratically
MEngine misfires at idle speed
MEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
MEngine hesitates on acceleration
MEngine stalls
MEngine lacks power
MEngine backfires
MOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
MEngine runs-on after switching off
MEngine noises
Cooling system
MOverheating
MOvercooling
MExternal coolant leakage
MInternal coolant leakage
MCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
MExcessive fuel consumption
MFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
MExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
MPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
MClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
MClutch slips (engine speed increases; no increase in vehicle speed)
MJudder as clutch is engaged
MNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual gearbox
MNoisy in neutral with engine running
MNoisy in one particular gear
MDifficulty engaging gears
MJumps out of gear
MVibration
MLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
MFluid leakage
MTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smellMGeneral gear selection problems
MTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with acceleration
MEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
MTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in forward
or reverse gears
Propeller shaft
MClunking or knocking noise when taking up drive
MVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Final drive and driveshafts
MExcessive final drive noise
MOil leakage from final drive
MGrating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
Braking system
MVehicle pulls to one side under braking
MNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
MExcessive brake pedal travel
MBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
MExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
MJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
MPedal pulsates when braking hard
MBrakes binding
MRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
MVehicle pulls to one side
MWheel wobble and vibration
MExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during braking
MWandering or general instability
MExcessively-stiff steering
MExcessive play in steering
MLack of power assistance
MTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
MBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
MIgnition/no-charge warning light remains on with engine running
MIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
MLights inoperative
MInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
MHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
MWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
MWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
MElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
MCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Introduction

headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. The Chapter and/or Section which deals with the
problem is also shown in brackets. Whatever the fault, certain basic
principles apply. These are as follows:
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know
what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else, who may
not have described it very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is
there fuel in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular
point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is
indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test
gear.Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a
fully-charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the
underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same
way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get
you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it
wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established
and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a
“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling
around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently-fitted.
When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realise
that all the evidence was there from the start.
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
MBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).
MBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chapter 5).
MDefective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).
MDefective starter motor (Chapter 5).
MStarter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2 or 5).
MEngine earth strap broken or disconnected.
Starter motor turns engine slowly
MPartially-discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start)
(Chapter 5).
MBattery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MBattery earth to body defective (Chapter 5).
MEngine earth strap loose.
MStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose (Chapter 5).
MStarter motor internal fault (Chapter 5).
Engine rotates, but will not start
MFuel pump inertia switch tripped (electric pump) (Chapter 4).
MFuel tank empty.
MBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
MBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).
MBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit (Chapters 1
and 5).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
MMajor mechanical failure (eg broken timing chain) (Chapter 2).
Engine difficult to start when cold
MBattery discharged (Chapter 5).
MBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
MOther ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
Engine difficult to start when hot
MAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
MLow cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
MStarter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2 or 5).
MStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
MStarter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).
Engine starts, but stops immediately
MLoose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
MVacuum leak at the throttle body or inlet manifold (Chapter 4).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine idles erratically
MIncorrectly-adjusted idle speed (Chapter 4).
MAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
MCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine misfires at idle speed
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5).
MVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
MDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable
(Chapter 5).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
MDisconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapter 4).
Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
MFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
MVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5).
MDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable
(Chapter 5).
MFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine stalls
MVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
REF•12Fault diagnosis
Engine

MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
MFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine lacks power
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
MBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 10).
MClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
MVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
MLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
MFaulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 2).
MWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
MExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2).
MOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2).
Note:Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not
necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far
more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender
before condemning the engine.
Engine runs-on after switching off
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
MExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
MIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Whistling or wheezing noises
MLeaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4).
MLeaking exhaust manifold gasket (Chapter 4).
MLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4 and 10).
MBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
Tapping or rattling noises
MWorn valve gear, timing chain, camshaft or hydraulic tappets
(Chapter 2).
MAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3, 5)
Knocking or thumping noises
MWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less
under load) (Chapter 2).
MWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load) (Chapter 2).
MPiston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2).
MAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3, 5)
Overheating
MAuxiliary drivebelt broken or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
MInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
MThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
MRadiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
MElectric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty (Chapter 3).
MViscous-coupled fan faulty (Chapter 3).
MIgnition timing incorrect, or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
MAirlock in cooling system (Chapter 3).
Overcooling
MThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
MInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
MDeteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).
MRadiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).
MPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
MWater pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3).
MWater pump-to-block seal leaking (Chapter 3).
MBoiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).
MCore plug leaking (Chapter 2).
Internal coolant leakage
MLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
MCracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter 2).
Corrosion
MInfrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1).
Fault diagnosisREF•13
REF
Cooling system
Excessive fuel consumption
MAir filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
MFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
MIgnition timing incorrect or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MBrakes binding (Chapter 10).
MTyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
MDamaged fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapters 1 and 4).
Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
MLeaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4).
MLeaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1 and 4).
MBroken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 4).
Fuel and exhaust systems