GMC SAVANA PASSENGER 2009 Owners Manual

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Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many
parts have to be of top quality and work well together if
the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle
was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts.
When parts of the braking system are replaced — for
example, when the brake linings wear down and new
ones are installed — be sure to get new approved
replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might
not work properly. For example, if someone puts in
brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance
between the front and rear brakes can change — for the
worse. The braking performance expected can change in
many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts
are installed.
Battery
This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is
time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one
that has the replacement number shown on the original
battery’s label. SeeEngine Compartment Overview on
page 5-14for battery location.
Warning:Battery posts, terminals, and related
accessories contain lead and lead compounds,
chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after
handling.
Vehicle Storage
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that
can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not
careful. SeeJump Starting on page 5-40for tips
on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently,
remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery.
This helps keep the battery from running down.
Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle,
remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or
use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the
charge of the battery over an extended period of time.
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Jump Starting
If the vehicle battery has run down, you may want
to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start
your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to
do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous
because:
•They contain acid that can burn you.
•They contain gas that can explode or ignite.
•They contain enough electricity to burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or
all of these things can hurt you.Notice:Ignoring these steps could result in costly
damage to the vehicle that would not be covered
by the warranty.
Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it
will not work, and it could damage the vehicle.
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
Notice:If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
system with a negative ground, both vehicles can
be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems
with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you do not want. You would not be
able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding
could damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling,
set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles
involved in the jump start procedure. Put an
automatic transmission in P (PARK) or a manual
transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the
parking brake.
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Notice:If you leave the radio or other accessories
on during the jump starting procedure, they could be
damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the
warranty. Always turn off the radio and other
accessories when jump starting the vehicle.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off
the radio and all lamps that are not needed.
This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries.
And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and
negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle.
Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump
starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump
starting terminal. You should always use these
remote terminals instead of the terminals on the
battery.The remote positive (+) terminal is located
behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory
drive bracket on the driver’s side of the engine
compartment, below the alternator. To uncover
the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red
plastic cover.
The remote negative (−) terminal is located on
the engine drive bracket on all V8 engines and is
marked GND (Ground).
On V6 engines the remote negative (−) terminal is
located on a tab attached to the engine accessory
drive bracket and is marked GND (Ground).
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{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery
gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this,
and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if
you need more light.
Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not
need to add water to the battery installed in your
new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be
sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low,
add water to take care of that first. If you do not,
explosive gas could be present.
Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.
Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in
your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with
water and get medical help immediately.
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts
once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose
or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go
to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−)oryou
will get a short that would damage the battery
and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on
the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to
the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not let the other end touch anything until the
next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable
does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the
dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable
to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle
with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote
negative (−) terminal for this purpose. It is
marked GND.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs
service.
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Notice:If the jumper cables are connected or
removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may
occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would
not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always
connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct
order, making sure that the cables do not touch
each other or other metal.
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) TerminalTo disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do
the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its
original position.
Jumper Cable Removal
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All-Wheel Drive
Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these
vehicles. However, there are two additional systems
that need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
how often to check the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
Use care not to overtighten the plug.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-14.
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Rear Axle
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
how often to check the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.If you have the 1500 Series, the proper level is from
5/8 inch (15 mm) to 1 5/8 inch (40 mm) below the bottom
of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 and
3500 Series is from 0 to 1/4 (6 mm) below the bottom of
the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the
proper level.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-14.
Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it.
SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
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If the level is below the
bottom of the filler plug
hole, you may need to
add some lubricant.
When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant
to raise the level to 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler
plug hole.
When the differential is at operating temperature
(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to
the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-14.
Noise Control System
Tampering with Noise Control
System Prohibited
The following information relates to compliance with
federal noise emission standards for vehicles with
a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than
10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule
provides information on maintaining the noise control
system to minimize degradation of the noise emission
control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise
control system warranty is given in your warranty
booklet.
These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
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Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing
thereof:
1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any
person, other than for purposes of maintenance,
repair or replacement, of any device or element of
design incorporated into any new vehicle for the
purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery
to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element
of design has been removed or rendered inoperative
by any person.
Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are
the acts listed below.
Insulation:

Removal of the noise shields or any underhood
insulation.
Engine:

Removal or rendering engine speed governor, if the
vehicle has one, inoperative so as to allow engine
speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.
Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch, if the vehicle has one, or
rendering clutch inoperative.
•Removal of the fan shroud, if the vehicle has one.
Air Intake:

Removal of the air cleaner silencer.
•Modification of the air cleaner.
Exhaust:

Removal of the muffler and/or resonator.
•Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe
clamps.
Fuel Operated Heater (FOH) — Diesel
Engine:

Removal of the muffler.
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