light GMC SIERRA CLASSIC 2007 Owners Manual

Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You may want to put winter emergency
supplies in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 543.Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom,
a supply of windshield washer uid, a rag,
some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a
ashlight, a red cloth, and reective warning
triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe
conditions, include a small bag of sand, a
piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires
meet the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires
and the road, you can have a very slippery
situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip,
and will need to be very careful.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And
check around again from time to time to
be sure snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must.
This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it
go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you
spin the wheels too fast while shifting
the transmission back and forth, you can
destroy the transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 562.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right.
That will clear the area around the front wheels.
If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift
into Four-Wheel High. If your vehicle has the
Traction Assist System (TAS), you should
turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button.Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R)
and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission,
between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and
REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as
possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you
shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion
that may free your vehicle. If that does not get
your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to be
towed out. Or, you can use the recovery hooks
if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need
to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 423.
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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering.
Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where
you live but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this information can be state
or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches”
later in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst
500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven.
Your engine, axle or other parts could be
damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that
you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle.
This helps your engine and other parts of
your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transmission, you
can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to
shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if
necessary, a lower gear selection if the
transmission shifts too often, such as under
heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. If you have
a manual transmission and you are towing a
trailer, it’s better not to use the highest
gear. SeeTow/Haul Mode Light on page 264.
Three important considerations have to do
with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The weight on your vehicle’s tires
Tow/Haul Mode
Tow/Haul is a feature on automatic transmission
equipped vehicles that assists when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load. SeeTow/Haul Mode
on page 147for more information.
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Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when
the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at
least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined
Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the
Trailer” later in the section. Tow/Haul is most
useful under the following driving conditions:
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large
or heavy load through rolling terrain.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or
heavy load in stop and go traffic.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or
heavy load in busy parking lots where
improved low speed control of the vehicle is
desired.
Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly
loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause
damage. However, there is no benet to the
selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is
unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may
result in unpleasant engine and transmission
driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy.
Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a
heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used
to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend
on any special equipment that you have on your
vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the
vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer
Tongue” later in this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming
only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all
the required trailering equipment. The weight
of additional optional equipment, passengers and
cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted
from the maximum trailer weight.
Above the 5,000 lbs (2 268 kg) trailer rating,
the handling/trailering suspension is required on
two-wheel drive 1500 series models and the
handling/trailering or off-road suspension is
required on four-wheel drive 1500 series models.
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The hitch should be located in the pickup bed so
that it’s centerline is over or slightly in front of the
rear axle. Take care that it is not so far forward that
it will contact the back of the cab in sharp turns.
This is especially important for short box pickups.
Trailer pin box extensions and sliding fth wheel
hitch assemblies can help this condition. There
should be at least six inches of clearance between
the top of the pickup box and the bottom of the
trailer shelf that extends over the box.
Make sure the hitch is attached to the tow vehicle
frame rails. Do not use the pickup box for support.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains
under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the
tongue from contacting the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety
chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. If you are towing a
trailer up to 5,000 lbs (2 271 kg) with a
factory-installed step bumper, you may attach the
safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper.
If you are towing a trailer up to your vehicle’s trailer
rating limit you may attach the safety chains to the
attaching point on the hitch platform. If you aretowing with an aftermarket hitch follow the trailer or
hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so
you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they
must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the
vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your
vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise,
both braking systems won’t work well. You
could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap
at the port on the master cylinder that sends the
uid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing
for this. If you do, it will bend and nally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will
ash whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if the
bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may
think drivers behind you are seeing your signal
when they are not. It’s important to check
occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can
tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to lower gear selection if the
transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy
loads and/or hilly conditions).You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode
if the transmission shifts too often. SeeTow/Haul
Mode Light on page 264.
If you have a 5-speed manual transmission and
you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use
FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear
(or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill
grades, consider the following: Engine coolant at
or near sea level will boil at a lower temperature
than at higher altitudes. If you turn your engine off
immediately after towing at high altitude on
steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let
the engine run while parked, preferably on
level ground, with the automatic transmission in
PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning
the engine off. For manual transmissions, let the
engine run while parked, preferably on level
ground, with the transmission out of gear and the
parking brake applied, for a few minutes before
turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 505.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled
Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 617for
more information. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic
transmission uid (don’t overll), engine oil, axle
lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and
the Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re
trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with one of the following
wiring harnesses for towing a trailer or hauling
a slide-in camper.
Basic Trailer Wiring
All regular, extended cab and crew cab pickups
have an eight-wire trailer towing harness.For vehicles not equipped with heavy duty
trailering, the harness is clipped to the vehicle’s
frame behind the spare tire mount. The harness
requires the installation of a trailer connector,
which is available through your dealer.
If your trailer is equipped with electric brakes, you
can get a jumper harness (electric trailer brake
control) with a trailer battery feed fuse from
your dealer.
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a
standard four-way round pin connector, you can
also get an adapter from your dealer.
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Heavy-DutyTrailer Wiring Harness
Package
For vehicles equipped with heavy duty trailering,
the harness is connected to the trailer mounted to
the hitch platform. The eight-wire harness
contains the following trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Light Blue: CHMSL*
Red: Battery Feed**
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
*The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)
wire is tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use
with a trailer, slide-in camper or cap.
**If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle)
battery, press the tow/haul mode button located at
the end of the shift lever. This will boost the
vehicle system voltage and properly charge the
battery. If the trailer is too light for tow/haul mode,
you can turn on the headlamps as a second
way to boost the vehicle system voltage and
charge the battery.
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Camper/Fifth-Wheel Trailer Wiring Package
The eight-wire camper harness is located under
the front edge of the pickup box on the driver’s
side of the vehicle, attached to the frame bracket.
A connector will have to be added to the wiring
harness which connects to the camper.
The eight-wire harness contains the following
camper/trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Light Blue: Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL)
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer BrakeIf your vehicle is equipped with the “Heavy-Duty
Trailering” option, please refer to “Heavy-Duty
Trailer Wiring Package” earlier in this section.
When the camper-wiring harness is ordered
without the heavy-duty trailering package, an
eight-wire harness with a seven-pin connector and
separate CHMSL connector are located at the
rear of the vehicle and are tied to the vehicle’s
frame.
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