light HUMMER H2 2005 Manual Online

The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your
windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy
rain can make it harder to see road signs and
traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road,
and even people walking.
It is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape
and keep your windshield washer tank lled with
washer uid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts
when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on
the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to
separate from the inserts.Driving too fast through large water puddles or even
going through some car washes can cause problems,
too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid
puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you
hit them.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not
work as well in a quick stop and may cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly
until your brakes work normally.
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Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your
tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in
one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is
standing on the road. If you can see reections
from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and
raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could
be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice:If you drive too quickly through deep
puddles or standing water, water can come in
through your engine’s air intake and badly damage
your engine. Never drive through water that is
slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If
you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water,
drive through them very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
If you try to drive through owing water, as you
might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can
be carried away. As little as six inches of
owing water can carry away a smaller vehicle.
If this happens, you and other vehicle
occupants could drown. Do not ignore police
warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious
about trying to drive through owing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you
pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear
room ahead, and be prepared to have your
view restricted by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-54.
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City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the
amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for
what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to
traffic signals.Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:
Know the best way to get to where you are
going. Get a city map and plan your trip into
an unknown part of the city just as you would for a
cross-country trip.
Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross
most large cities. You will save time and energy.
SeeFreeway Driving on page 4-44.
Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic
light is there because the corner is busy enough
to need it. When a light turns green, and just before
you start to move, check both ways for vehicles
that have not cleared the intersection or may
be running the red light.
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Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways—also called thruways, parkways,
expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the
safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep
up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the
same speed most of the other drivers are driving.
Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic ow.
Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the
freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you
drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check
traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with
the ow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the
prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your
mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as
necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic ow.
Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the
posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower.
Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.
Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use
your turn signal.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your
shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in
your blind spot.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you
allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to
move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the
proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do
not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive
on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted.
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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer uid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight, a red
cloth, and a couple of reective warning triangles. And,
if you will be driving under severe conditions, include
a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of
burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you
properly secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You
will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be
very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
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Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
oor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. Your vehicle
has a Traction Control System that will activate when
the system senses that the wheels are spinning.
SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9for
more information. Then, with the wheels straight ahead,
shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press
lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking
motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get
you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
Or, you can use your recovery loops. If you do need
to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-64.
Recovery Loops
Front of Vehicle
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First Aid Kit and Tool Kit
The rst aid and tool kit is located in the storage bin
behind the spare tire on SUV models. It is held in place
with a hook and loop fastener strap.
On SUT models, the kit is in the rear cargo compartment
on the passenger side of the vehicle.
The kit includes a rst aid kit, a ashlight, a tire pressure
gage, and a multi-purpose tool set.The tire pressure gage has a reset button in the gage
stem. After taking a pressure reading, press the
button to reset the gage to zero.
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Front Mounted Receiver
Your vehicle is equipped with a front mounted receiver.You can use the receiver with a power winch
platform (described later in this section) or with
other accessories.
Never use the front mounted receiver to tow a trailer.
You can use the front mounted receiver to tow your
vehicle behind another. SeeRecreational Vehicle
Towing on page 4-64.
Receiver Extension
Use the receiver extension (if equipped) with the front
mounted receiver and various light-duty accessories
such as bike racks.
Notice:Do not attach accessories or cargo that
weigh more than 240 lbs. (108 kg) to the receiver
extension. You could damage the receiver extension
and/or your vehicle’s frame components.
The receiver extension was not intended for
heavy-duty use, such as trailer towing, winching or
vehicle recovery.
4-56

To use this feature, ensure that the following conditions
are met:
The engine must be running.
All doors must be fully closed. The suspension will
not raise or lower if a door is open.
The vehicle speed must be less than 40 mph
(64 km/h). The system will not activate otherwise.
Press the height control button to raise the rear of
the vehicle.
A light in the button will begin to ash as the rear of the
vehicle rises. Once the extended height has been
reached (this may take up to a minute), the warning
light will stop ashing and will stay lit while the vehicle is
at the extended height.
To lower the vehicle to the normal ride height, press the
button again. The light in the button will ash as the
suspension lowers. When the light in the button stops
ashing and goes out, the suspension has reached
the normal ride height.
This feature will lower the vehicle to the normal height if
vehicle speed exceeds 40 mph (64 km/h).You may also want to use this feature when ascending,
descending or cresting a steep hill as this can help
prevent the rear bumper from dragging on the base of
the hill or prevent the vehicle from grounding out
(high centering) on the crest of the hill.
Do not use this feature when towing a trailer.
Electronically Controlled Air
Suspension System
The electronically controlled air suspension, if equipped,
keeps the rear of your vehicle level as you load and
unload it. The system includes a compressor, two height
sensor and two air springs supporting the vehicle.
The engine must be running for the system to level the
vehicle after loading or unloading. The system will
suspend leveling if any of the doors are open. Once the
doors are closed, system leveling will continue.
You may hear the compressor running when you load
your vehicle, and periodically as the system adjusts
the vehicle to the standard ride height. You may
also hear the release of air similar to a hissing sound
during suspension operation. This is normal.
Load leveling will not function normally with the inator
hose attached to the inator outlet. Remove the
inater hose from the outlet when it is not in use. See
Accessory Inator on page 5-67.
4-66