lock JEEP DJ 1953 Service Manual

N

REAR AXLE
N-l2.
Differential Case
Disassembly

Refer
to
Fig.
N-3 and N-7.

a.
Remove
the
axle shafts. Refer
to
Par.
N-ll for

rear
axle removal
and
Par.
M-4 for
front axle
re­

moval.

b.
Remove
the
housing cover
and
four
cap
screws
holding
the two
differential side bearing caps
in

position. Make sure there
are
matching letters
or
some
type
of
identification marks
on the
caps
and

housing
so
that each
cap can be
reinstalled
in the

same position
and
location from which
it is re­

moved.

c.
Use
Spreader W-129,
as
shown
in
Fig. N-l9,
to

spread
the
housing.
Install
Hold-Down Clamps
W-129-18.
if
available,
to
keep
the
spreader
in
position.
Clamp
on a
dial
indicator.
From
the
side,
measure
the
carrier
spread.
Do not
spread
the
car­
rier
more than
.020"
[0,508
mm.].

d.
Remove
the
dial
indicator.
FIG.
N-19—DIFFERENTIAL
CARRIER
SPREADER

TOOL
W-129

1—
Spreader
W-129

2—
Dial
Indicator
and
Pointer

3—
Dial
Indicator
Clamp
Note:
When removing
the
axle differential from
the
rear
axle housing,
use
Spreader Tool
No.

W-129.

e.
Carefully
pry the
differential case
loose,
using

pry
bars
at the
heads
of the
ring gear
bolts
and

carrier
casting.

f.
Remove spreader immediately
to
prevent
the
possibility
of the
carrier
taking
a set.

g. Remove
the
screws holding
the
ring gear
to the

differential
case.

h.
With
a
small punch,
as
shown in
Fig.
N-20, drive
out
the
lock
pin.
FIG.
N-20—REMOVING
LOCK
PIN

i.
Remove
the
differential shaft
and
thrust block.

Note:
Thrust
block used with semi-float tapered
axle shaft only. Refer
to
Fig.
N-3.

j.
Carefully
so as not to
lose
the
thrust washers,
remove
the
differential pinion gears.

k.
With
Tool C-3281
to
hold
the
shaft
as
shown

in
Fig.
N-21,
remove
the nut.
With
Puller
W-172

remove
the
yoke
as
shown
in
Fig. N-2
2.

I.
Using
a
rawhide hammer, drive
on the end of

the pinion shaft
to
force
the
pinion
out of the

differential
housing.
FIG.
N-21—END
YOKE
HOLDING WRENCH

1— Nut

2—
Wrench
C-3281

3—
Yoke
Note:
Pinion bearing adjusting shims
may
remain
on
the
pinion shaft; stick
to the
bearing which
is
still
in the
housing;
or
fall
out
loose.
These shims
should
be
collected
and
kept
for
reassembly.

m.
Remove outer pinion bearing
cone,
baffle
and

oil
seal
by
using
a 2" x 2"
piece
of
hardwood
or a
length
of
pipe
and
drive
out
through
the
neck
of

the
carrier
housing.
Discard
seal. 294

N

REAR
AXLE
f. Inspect axle shaft thrust block for
excessive

wear
or visible damage. The wear surface on the op­
posite
ends
of the blocks, must be smooth.

Note:
Thrust
block used with semi-float tapered
axles only.
g. Inspect differential pinion shaft lock pin for
damage or
looseness
in case. Replace pin or case as necessary.

h.
Inspect drive gear and pinion for worn or
chipped
teeth
or damaged attaching
bolt
threads.
If
replacement is necessary, replace both the drive
gear and drive pinion as
they
are available in
matched
sets
only.

i.
Inspect drive pinion bearing
cones,
cups and

rollers
for pitting, galling,
excessive
wear, or other
visible damage. If inspection reveals that either are
unfit for further service, replace both cup and
cone,

j.
Inspect differential
carrier
for cracks or other
visible damage which would render it unfit for
further
service. Raised metal on the shoulder of
bearing cup bores
incurred
in removing pinion cups should be flattened by use of a flat
nose
punch.

k.
Inspect drive pinion for damaged bearings

journals
and mounting shim surface or excessively

worn
splines. If replacement is necessary, replace both the drive pinion and drive gear as
they
are
available in matched
sets
only.
I.
Inspect companion
flange
for
cracks,
worn
splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting

surface.
Repair
or replace companion
flange
as
necessary.

m.
Inspect drive pinion bearing shim pack for

broken,
damaged or distorted shims. Replace if
necessary during establishment of pinion bearing

preload.

N-16.
Pinion
Installation
and Adjustment

Refer
to
Fig.
N-3 and N-7.

Adjustment
of the pinion is accomplished by the use of shims placed
between
the inner bearing cup

and
the axle housing and
between
the pinion shoulder and the outer bearing. The shims behind
FIG.
N-2
5—INSTALLING
OUTER BEARING
CUP
FIG.
N-26—PINION
BEARING INSTALLING
SLEEVE

1—Sleeve
the inner bearing cup adjust the position of pinion

in
relation to the ring gear. The shims behind the outer bearing adjust the pinion inner and outer
bearing preload.
Install
the pinion as follows:

a.
Install
outer bearing cup using Tool W-264 on model 27 and W-126 on model 44 axles, as shown

in
Fig. N-25.
b.
Install
the inner bearing cup using Tool W-126
on model 27 axles, and Tool W-344 on model 44
axles to drive the cup
into
the housing.
c. Use Tool C-3095 to press the inner bearing
cone

and
roller
onto
the pinion shaft on axle Model 44.

Other
models
use Tool W-262 as shown in Fig.
N-26.

d.
Place the pinion in the housing and install a .065"
[1,651
mm.] shim, the inner
cone
and roller*

sleeve
SP-1997 from Tool W-162, and the pinion
nut.
e. Select the proper pinion adjusting
gauge
to obtain the correct reading for the differential model.

The
pinion adjusting fixture must first be set by the use of a master
gauge
which is included in the
W-99
Kit. Gauge block W-101-A-24 or SP5433 is stamped with the letter H which indicates it is used
to set the adjusting fixture on Model
27AF
axle differentials. Gauge block W-101-A-22 or SP5453 is stamped with the letters D, G, F, A, C, E and B.
Use the letter E for Model 44 axle differentials.
Tool
SP-5264 is used with the
dial
indicator in

W-99
Tool Set for
setting
pinion.
After
selecting the proper
gauge,
the adjusting fix­
ture can be set as follows: 296

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

N
f. Place the
gauge
block against the machined
sur­

face of the dial indicator mount, as shown in Fig.
N-2 8.
g. Set the dial indicator on zero by rotating the face.

h.
Install
the pinion adjusting fixture on the pinion

with
the stationary
guide
pin and the adjustable
guide
pin
seated
in pinion shaft lathe centers, as
shown in Fig. N-2 7.
FIG.
N-2
7—PINION
ADJUSTING FIXTURE
7—
C-Clamp

8— Sleeve Bearing
9—
Inner
Bearing
10— Housing 11—
Stationary
Guide Pin
1—
Dial
Gauge Swing Arc
2—
Pinion

3—
Flange

4—
Yoke

5—
Thumb
Screw
6—
Guide
Pin 12—Pinion Housing

Note:
Use the "C"
type
alignment fixture ver­

tically
as shown in Fig. N-29, so that
weight
of jig assembly is always directly centered and supported
on pinion shaft center. The function of the fixture is to accurately hold the dial indicator and its
FIG.
N-28—SETTING
PINION
GAUGE FOR
MODEL
27AF
AXLE
DIFFERENTIAL
1—
Dial
Indicator
2—
Gauge
Block
3—
Stationary
Pin
4—
C-Clamp
j
11534 j

FIG.
N-29—CHECKING
PINION
ADJUSTMENT mount in alignment to the pinion shaft while it is
pivoted on the stationary
guide
pin. If a consistent
repeat dial reading cannot be obtained, look for
dirty
or burred pinion centers or a
bent
or twisted
aligning jig. Keep jig flat in metal case when not
in
use. Do not allow other
tools
to rest on it
Treat

the C-type fixture
tool
carefully as a precision in­
strument.

i.
Seat the
gauge
mount firmly on the pinion head

and
swing the dial indicator through the differential
bearing bore as shown in
Fig.
N-29.

j.
The
lowest
reading indicates the center of the
differential bearing bore. At this point the dial indi­
cator should read the same as
mark
etched on the
pinion head. If the reading
does
not agree, add or
remove the shims behind the bearing cup until
the readings agree.

k.
The end of each pinion is etched with a plus
(+) number, a minus (—) number or zero (0)
number to indicate the
best
running position for
each particular gear set.
This
dimension is con­
trolled by shimming behind the inner pinion bear­ ing cup. Therefore if a pinion is etched (-f-2), this
pinion would require .002"
less
shims than a pinion
etched "0". By removing shims the mounting dis­
tance is increased which is just what a (+2) etch­
ing indicates. Or if a pinion is etched (—2), add
.002" more shims than would be required if the
pinion were etched "0". By adding .002" shims the mounting distance is decreased which is just what

a
(—2) etching indicates.

Note:
To increase the dial reading decrease shims;
to decrease the dial reading increase shims.

Example:
With a dial reading of minus .001" and
a
pinion marking of plus .002" remove .003" shims
to obtain a higher dial reading of plus .002"

I.
If the original ring and pinion set is to be re­
used, measure the old pinion shim pack and build a
new shim pack to this dimension. Collect shim pack
saved from teardown. Measure each shim separately 297

N

REAR
AXLE
with
a micrometer and add
together
to get total

shim
pack thickness from original buildup.
Note
the (-j-) or (—) etching on both the old pinion and the new one, and adjust the thickness of new shim

pack
to compensate for the difference
between
these
two figures. Refer to chart for example. If the old pinion reads (+2) and the new pinion is (—2),

add
.004" shims to the original pack dimension. Now build a new shim pack to this resulting di­
mension.

m.
When the correct adjustment is reached, remove
the pinion adjusting fixture and
sleeve
SP-1997.
Install
outer bearing.

n.
Install
only the oil slinger, the yoke, the flat

washer,
and the pinion nut Holding the yoke with

Flange
Holder C-3281, torque the nut 200 to 220 lb-ft. [27,65 a
30,42
kg-m.].
o. Using Inch-Pound Torque Wrench W-297 on
the nut check the rotating torque. The rotating torque should be 10 to 25 lb-in. [0,115 a
0,288

kg-m.].

p. Add or remove shims
between
the pinion outer
bearing and the pinion shaft to obtain correct
torque reading.

N-l7.
Differential Case Reassembly

Procedure
for assembling the differential case on semifloating
rear
axles is as follows:

a.
Reassemble the differential pinions, side gears,

thrust
washers, and shaft in relative position shown
in
Fig. N-3 and N-7. Make sure the spacers are

installed.

b.
Install
differential shaft lock pin.
Note:
Disregard starting torque.
Old

Pinion
NEW
PINION MARKING

-4 -3
-2 _1
0
+4
+0.008
+0.007
+0.006 +0.005 +0.004

+3
+0.007 +0.006
+0.005 +0.004
+0.003

+2
+0.006
+0.005
+0.004 +0.003 +0.002

+1
+0.005 +0.004
+0.003 +0.002 +0.001

0
+0.004
+0.003 +0.002
+0.001
0
_1
+0.003 +0.002 +0.001
0
-0.001

-2
+0.002 +0.001

0
-0.001 -0.002

-3
+0.001
0

-0.001 -0.002
-0.003

-4
0
-0.001 -0.002
-0.003 -0.004

Old

Pinion
Marking
NEW
PINION MARKING

Old

Pinion
Marking

+1 +2
+3
+4
+4
+0.003 +0.002 +0.001

0
+3
+0.002
+0.001
0

-0.001

+2
+0.001
0

-0.001 -0.002

+1 0

-0.001
-0.002 -0.003

0
-0.001 -0.002
-0.003 -0.004

-1
-0.002 -0.003
-0.004
-0 005
-2
-0.003 -0.004 -0.005 -0.006

-3
-0.004 -0.005
-0.006 -0.007

_4
-0.005 -0.006
-0.007 -0.008
FIG.
N-30—DIFFERENTIAL
SHIM PACK LOCATIONS
298

N

REAR
AXLE a.
Place the transmission in neutral.

b.
Raise one wheel off the floor and place a block

in
front and at the
rear
of the
opposite
wheel.

c.
Apply a torque wrench to the axle shaft nut of
the elevated wheel.

d.
Turn
wheel with torque wrench. Disregard

breakaway
torque and observe torque required to
continuously
turn
wheel smoothly. Torque should
read
40 lb-ft [5,53 kg-m.] or more.

N-23. Powr-Lok
Differential Disassembly
/
and Reassembly

Refer
to
Figs.
N-38 and N-39.
The
procedure for overhauling disc type
Powr-Lok

differentials is as follows:

a.
Remove axle shafts following procedure de­
scribed
in Par. N-2.

b.
Remove housing cover and gasket.

c.
Remove the
Powr-Lok
differential from the axle.
Do not remove the ring gear or bearing
cone
and

rollers
unless replacement is to be made.
Mark
the hearing cups so they may later be reassembled

with
the same bearing cones.
Mark
the differential
case halves for correct alignment at reassembly.
Each
pinion mate cross shaft should also be marked
so that each pin cam surface
will
match with the
same
V-ramp
in the case when reassembled.

d.
Separate the case halves. e. Remove the disc and plate
sets.
The illustration
(Fig.
N-39) shows the arrangement of plates and

discs.
When reassembling unit, discs and plates must be reinstalled in this arrangement. Be sure
to keep in mind which way the set
will
face toward the case.

^®(j)(j)CD©
® /'Ml
I
11
11 v

FIG.
N-39—PLATE
ASSEMBLY
ORPER
A—Model
44
B—Model
27 1—
Case
5—Disc

2—
Belleville
Plate
6—Thin
Plate

3—
Belleville
Disc
7—Sidegear
Ring

4—Plate
8—Side
Gear
f. Remove the pinion mate cross shafts, bevel
pinion mate gears, bevel side gears, and side gear

rings.

g.
Clean
all parts thoroughly in kerosene and dry

with
compressed air.

h.
Inspect all parts. Replace any items which ap­

pear
to be worn or damaged.

i.
Inspect the plate surfaces of the case halves, the
side gear rings, and the clutch friction plates and
discs for excessive wear or scoring.

j.
Inspect the pinion mate shaft and ramp
sur­

faces on the case for excessive wear and pitting,

k.
Inspect the pinion gear races that bear on the
side gear rings.

I.
Inspect the corresponding surfaces on the side
gear rings.

m.
Inspect the clutch plates and discs for cracks

and
distortion. In the
event
one or more of the

clutch
plates or discs
needs
replacing, replace the
entire stack of plates and discs on each side of
the pinions. These stacks are supplied in
sets.

The
differential case halves are not serviced. Should replacement be required, it is necesary to replace
the complete differential.

n.
Assemble the clutch friction plates, clutch
fric­

tion discs, and dished plates on the splined hub of each bevel side gear. Make sure the plates and
discs are installed in the proper relationship as shown in Fig. N-39. The dished plates in the plate

and
disc set are always assembled with the convex
side toward the case. As each part is reassembled

in
its proper position, it is necessary that it be lightly coated with
Powr-Lok
lubricant,

o.
Place each differential case
half
on its side and
install
the side gear rings with the plates and discs
assembled. The side gear ring
will
rotate with a slight drag when properly located in the case,
p.
With
the ring gear flange
half
of the differential
case in an upright position, assemble the bevel side gears, pinion mate cross shafts, and bevel pinion
mate gears.
Install
the remaining case
half
on the
ring
gear flange half. Make sure that all markings
coincide.

q.
Install
the differential case
bolts
and
turn
them

in
a few threads.

r.
Using axle shafts from the vehicle, align the
splines of the side gear, and the side gear
ring,

s.
With
these
axle shafts in position, tighten the

differential
case
bolts
evenly. Torque 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,84 a 6,22 kg-m.].
t. Remove the axle shafts.

u.
Check
for proper assembly.
Each
pinion mate
cross shaft should be tight on its
ramp.
If there is

clearance
between
the cross shaft and the
ramp,

the clearance should be no more than .005" [0,127 mm.].

This
clearance should be equal on all four cross
shaft ends.
v. Reinstall the unit in the axle.

w.
Install
axle shafts as described in Par. N-2.
Other
service operations such as ring gear and
pinion replacement, or pinion and bearing adjust­ ments, are performed in the same manner as de- 302

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

STEERING SYSTEM

Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.

GENERAL......
O-l
Camber
Adjustment 0-9

Caster
Adjustment. .0-10

Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments.....
.
0-6

Front
Wheel Shimmy 0-13

Front
Wheel Turning Angle Oil
Steering Knuckle Arm O-l2
Steering
Gear
Function 0-2
Steering Linkage 0-3
Toe-in
Adjustment 0-7, 8

STEERING LINKAGE SERVICE..
O-l4
Drag
Link
or Connecting Rod O-l5

Tie
Rod 0-16

Tie
Rod Removal.. O-l7

Beilcrank
Service O-l8
SUBJECT
PAR.

STEERING GEAR SERVICE
.0-22 Reassembly of Steering
Gear
0-25 Disassembly of Steering
Gear
0-24 Installation of Steering
Gear
0-26

Removal
of Steering
Gear
0-23
Steering
Gear
Adjustment. . 0-5

STEERING
COLUMN
AND
WHEEL SERVICE.
..................
.0-20
Steering Column Adjustments 0-4
Steering Wheel Installation 0-27
Steering Wheel Removal 0-21

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
. 0-28

SPECIFICATIONS.
.0-29

<§>-
i©1

<B>
CJ-3B

0
0 0
®

1—
Frame
Cross Tube
(CJ-3B)

2— Steering Beilcrank Bracket
(CJ-3B)

3—
Steering Beilcrank
4—
Front
Axle Assembly 5— Steering Connecting Rod (Drag
Link)

6— Steering
Gear
Arm

7—
Steering
Gear

8—
Left
Steering Knuckle and Arm
9—
Left
Shaft and Universal Joint
FIG.
O-l—STEERING LINKAGE

10—
Left
Tie Rod Socket 11—
Left
Steering Tie Rod
12—
Left
Tie Rod Socket 13—
Right
Tie Rod Socket
14—
Beilcrank
Nut
15—
Washer

16— Bolt 17—
Beilcrank
Bearing 18—
Bearing
Spacer
(Early
Model) 19—
Washer

20—
Beilcrank
Shaft
21—
Bearing
Seal
22— Nut
23—
Lockwasher

24—
Right
Steering Tie Rod 25—
Right
Shaft and Universal Joint 26—
Right
Steering Knuckle and Arm 313

STEERING
SYSTEM

O-L
GENERAL

The
steering system on all Jeep Universal vehicles
consists of the steering gear, steering wheel, steering column and shaft, and steering linkage.
This

section covers wheel alignment, steering linkage,
steering gear, steering column and steering wheel.
0-2. Steering
Gear
Function

The
steering gear is a reducing gear. It exchanges a

relatively
large amount of movement with a small force (applied by the driver at the steering wheel), for a much smaller amount of movement with a
greatly increased force through a cam and lever
action type steering gear. The steering gear ratio is 17.9 to 1 on vehicles equipped with the F4
engine

and
19 to 1 with the V6 engine.
0-3. Steering
Linkage
Refer
to Fig. O-l.
The
steering linkage consists of a steering arm at­
tached to the steering gear, a steering connecting

rod,
(drag
link),
connecting the steering arm to the
beilcrank,
and a steering tie rod connecting the
beilcrank
to the axle tie rod. The beilcrank pivots
on a pin mounted just to the left of the frame front crossmember. The steering tie rod is connected to
the beilcrank and
extends
to the right
ball
joint as­ sembly of tie rod. The tie rod
extends
to the wheels,
being connected to their respective steering knuckle

arms
at the wheels.
With
this linkage arrangement,
as the steering arm
moves
rearward,
the front
wheels
turn
to the left. As the steering arm
moves
forward,
the wheels
turn
to the right.
Ball
joints are used to secure the drag
link,
steering
connecting rod and tie rod ends. The
ball
joints
assist in maintaining
good
steering control and con­
stant toe-in of the front wheels under all driving conditions. If the
ball
joints
become
worn enough
to allow free motion in the linkage, they should be,

replaced.

Note:
Ball
joint replacement of the tie rod requires
resetting of the wheel toe-in adjustment.
0-4.
Steering
Column
and Gear
Alignment
When
adjusting a steering gear remove all loads
from
the unit by disconnecting the steering con­
necting rod (drag
link)
from the steering arm and
also
loosen
the instrument panel bracket and the
steering gear to frame
bolts
to allow the steering
post
to correctly align itself. When retightening the
steering gear to frame
bolts
use a torque wrench
pull
of 45 to 55 lb-ft. [6,2 a 7,6 kg-m.] on the

Vk*
bolts
and 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,15 a 5,5 kg-m.] on the
Vs"
bolts. 10811

FIG.
0-2—STEERING
GEAR
1—Nut

2
—Lockwasher

3—
Steering
Gear
Arm 4—
Lever
Shaft Oil Seal
5—
Outer
Housing Bushing
6—
Inner
Housing Bushing 7—
Filler
Plug
8—
Cover
and Tube
9—
Ball
Retaining
Ring

10—Cup
11—
Ball
(Steel)
12—
Tube
and Cam
13—
Shims

14—
Upper
Cover

15—
Lockwasher

16—
Bolt

17—
Steering
Wheel 18—
Horn
Button Retainer
19—
Horn
Button
20—
Horn
Button Cap 21— Nut
22—
Spring
23—
Spring
Seat
24—
Bearing
25—
Horn
Cable

26—
Horn
Button Spring
27—
Spring
Cup
28—
Steering Column
29—
Oil
Hole
Cover

30—
Clamp
31—
Adjusting
Screw
32— Nut
33—
Bolt

34—
Side
Cover
35—
Gasket

36—
Shaft
and
Lever

37—
Housing
314

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O Note:
If the steering-gear-to-frame
bolts
are not

properly
torqued, they
will
eventually
loosen
dur­

ing operation of the vehicle. Loose
bolts
will
result
in
elongated
bolt
holes
making maintenance of bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper
torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0-5. Steering
Gear
Adjustment
The
cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in

Fig.
0-2. It consists of a
spiral
cam, and a cross shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When
the steering wheel is turned, the cam
moves

the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in
turn
causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.

Two
adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjust­ment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the

cam
groove.

Adjustment
of the
ball
thrust bearings to eliminate up and down play of the steering shaft is ac­
complished by removing shims which are installed
between
the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment
loosen
the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in
the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required.
Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to
turn
freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.

Shims
installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and .010"
[.0508,
.0762
and .254 mm.] in thickness.

Adjustment
of the tapered pins in the cam
groove

is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the

adjusting
screw and
turn
it in until a very slight
drag
is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.

Backlash
of the pins in the
groove
shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steer­ ing arm.

The
cam
groove
is purposely cut shallow in the

straight
ahead driving position for each pin.
This

feature permits a
close
adjustment for normal

straight
ahead driving and provides precision steer­ ing and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind else­

where.
Always
adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight
ahead" position.
Backlash
in turned posi­
tions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front
Wheel Alignment Adjustments
To
ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recom­ mended. It is
suggested
that the following sequence
be used:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and level vehicle.
b.
Check
steering gear to steering column align­
ment.

c.
Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing
looseness.

d.
Check
wheel runout.

e.
Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f.
Check
for spring sag.
g.
Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.

h.
Check
steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.

i.
Check
caster,

j.
Check
toe-in.
k.
Check
toe-out
on turns.

I.
Check
camber.

m.
Check
tracking of front and
rear
wheels,

n.
Check
frame alignment.

The
factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toe-
in,
are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected.
There­

fore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the
settings
are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and
bolts
are

all
properly torqued before taking wheel alignment readings.

Proper
alignment of front wheels must be main­
tained in order to ensure
ease
of steering and satis­factory tire life.

The
most important factors of front wheel align­ment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.

Wheel
toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer

together
at the front than at the
rear.
Wheel
camber is the amount the wheels incline out­

ward
at the top from a vertical position.
Front
axle caster is the amount in
degrees
that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or

rear
of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the
rear
of the ve­

hicle.
Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the in­
clination
of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.

These
points should be checked at regular inter­
vals,
particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and

knuckle
bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose bearings
will
affect instrument readings when

checking
the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To
accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture.
Camber
and caster of the front
wheels are both preset.
Camber
cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between
the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may
be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par.
0-8.
0-7.
Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in
as illustrated in
Fig.
0-3, is necessary to
off­

set the
effect
of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4. 315

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

The
purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steer­
ing stability which
will
keep the front wheels in the
straight
ahead position and also assist in straighten­
ing up the wheels when coming out of a
turn.
Caster
of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of

caster,
when accurately measured, is found to be

incorrect,
correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new

parts
or installing caster shims
between
the axle

pad
and the springs.

If
the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check

may
be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly

inflated,
being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If
vehicle turns easily to either side but is
hard
to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it

can
usually be accomplished by installing shims

between
the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired
result.
0-11-
Front
Wheel
Turning
Angle
When
the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the
turn
travels in a smaller circle than the out­side wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel

frOm
being scuffed sideways.
This
angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to

turn
on a common center by having the ends of the
steering
knuckle
arms closer
together
than the king­

pins.

To
avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is advisable to check the turning angle.
Wearing
away
of the upset
edge
on the spindle housing bolt which
10607

FIG.
0-6—TURNING
ANGLE
STOP
SCREW
1—Stop
Screw
contacts the
stop
screw
will
increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.

The
Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a

turning
angle of not more than 27^° both left and

right.
To adjust the
stop
screw, it is necessary to

loosen
the locknut holding the
stop
screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig.
O 6.

The
left steering knuckle arm controls the relation­
ship of the front wheels on a left
turn
and the right
arm
controls the relation on a right
turn.

0-12. Steering
Knuckle
Arm

Should
a steering knuckle arm
become
bent, the

knuckle
housing must be replaced. It is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13.
Front
Wheel
Shimmy
Wheel
shimmy may be caused by various condi­
tions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of
these
conditions. Outlined below

will
be found the usual corrections of this fault:

a.
Equalize
tire pressures and see that they are
according
to specifications.

b.
Check
the wheel bearings for
looseness.
Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too
loose
on the spindle.

c.
Remove both steering knuckles and carefully inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.

Inspect
the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the slightest imperfection must be
replaced.
Reassemble

and
lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing
new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.

d.
With
full
weight on the front wheels and one

man
working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the steering bell
crank
for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or

looseness
at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank
assembly if it has even the slightest rocking motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e.
Check
wheel run-out.
This
check should include
radial
run-out and wheel
looseness
on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform
tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the
rims.

g.
Try
switching front wheels and tires to the
rear,
criss-crossing
them in this operation.

h.
Check
for front
spring
sag. Also check for broken

spring
leaves, broken center
spring
bolt,
loose
spring

clips
(or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring leaves, spring shackle bracket
loose
on frame, and

loose
rear
spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers
are operating properly to eliminate bob­bing of the front end.

i.
Check
brakes to make sure that one
does
not

drag.

j.
Check
the steering assembly and steering con­ necting rod.
This
includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross 317

o

STEERING
SYSTEM
10

FIG.
0-7—STEERING
CONNECTING
ROD
(DRAG
LINK)
10696

1—Cotter Pin

2>—Large
Plug

3—
Ball
Seat

4—
Ball
Seat Spring 5—
Spring
Plug
shaft,
tightness
of the steering gear in the frame,

tightness
of steering gear arm, adjustment of the
steering connecting rod and condition of the steer­ ing tie rod
ball
joint ends. Adjust the steering con­
necting rod (drag
link)
to maximum safe
tightness

at both ends. Examine the steering beilcrank bearings, the shaft in the mounting bracket, and
the mounting bracket on the frame cross member,
k.
Check
front axle caster.
This
should be the same
on both sides, otherwise a locking brake may be

indicated
causing a twisting action of the axle.
Correct
caster is shown in specifications at the end
of this section.

I.
Check
the front wheel toe-in. See Specifications,

m.
Check
wheel
toe-out
on turns.
This
gives
you

an
indication of the proper angularity of the steer­
ing knuckle arms and tells whether or not they have been bent and require replacing. These may be checked by comparing them with new parts. If

an
arm is bent, check for a bent tie rod.
n.
Check
wheel camber.
This
should be the same
on both wheels as shown on the Specifications,

o.
Check
the king pin inclination. See Specifica­ tions.

p.
Check
the tracking of the front axle and frame
alignment, which may be incorrect due to an accident.

0-14.
STEERING
LINKAGE
SERVICE
The
steering linkage must maintain constant toe-
in
and
good
steering control under all driving
conditions.
This
requires
ball
joints at each end
of the tie rods and steering connecting rod. All
joints in the steering linkage must be kept well
lubricated
for easy operation and long life. Should
the joints be worn, allowing excessive free motion
in
the linkage, the joints must be replaced. When­
ever
ball
joints are replaced, toe-in must be reset. Because
some
members of the steering system may
have
become
bent or distorted, a periodic inspection
should be made.
0-15.
Steering Connecting
Rod
(Drag
Link)

The
steering connecting rod is of the
ball
and socket
type. All
ball
seat springs and adjusting plugs are 6—
-Dust
Cover

7—
Dust
Shield
8—
Small
Adjusting Plug
9—
Lubrication
Fitting
10—Connecting Rod

identical,
the only difference
between
front and
rear
end being the relative location of the springs.

The
correct assembly of the steering connecting
rod
is shown in Fig. 0-7. At the front or axle end,
the spring and spacer are assembled
between
the
rod
and
ball
seat, while at the steering gear end,
spring
and spacer are
between
the
ball
seat and the
end plug. In the illustration the front end is to the left.

When
removing springs and
seats
for any reason,
make
sure they are reassembled as shown in the

illustration
because this method of assembly re­
lieves road shock from the steering gear in both di­
rections. To adjust the
ball
joint, screw in the plug

firmly
against the
ball,
approximately 20 ft. lb. [2,8 kg-m.] then back off one quarter
turn
and lock

with
a new cotter pin inserted through
holes
in the
tube and the slot in the adjusting plug. To adjust the
ball
joint at the steering gear arm, screw in the end plug firmly against the
ball,
then back off one

full
turn
and lock with a new cotter pin inserted
through
holes
in the tube and the slot in the ad­

justing
plug.

The
above adjustments
will
give
the proper spring
tension and avoid any
tightness
when swinging
the wheel from maximum left to right
turn.
The
ball
joints must be tight enough to prevent end

play
and yet
loose
enough to allow free movement.
0-16. Tie Rod
The
tie rods are of three piece construction con­sisting of the rod and two
ball
and socket end as­ semblies.
Ball
and socket end assemblies are
threaded into each rod and locked with clamps,

around
each end of the rod. Right and left hand threads on tie rod end assemblies provide toe-in adjustments without removing the tie rod ends from
the steering arm.

'Jeep'
Universal models are equipped with a

divided
tie rod connected to a bell-crank mounted
on the frame cross member.
With
this type con­

struction
the toe-in of each wheel is adjusted in­
dependently. See heading "Toe-in adjustment".

When
wear takes place in the tie rod end
ball
and socket, it
will
be necessary to replace the
ball
and socket assembly and also the rubber seal. 318