Gasket leak JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2002 WJ / 2.G User Guide

Page 1248 of 2199

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark
plugs3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel
filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system10. Install new parts as necessary
11. Faulty ignition coil rail 11. Test and replace, as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL).
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH
IDLE1. Carbon build-up on throttle plate 1. Remove throttle body and
de-carbon. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - REMOVAL) for
correct procedure.
2. Engine idle speed too low 2. Check Idle Air Control circuit.
3. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs3. Replace or clean and re-gap spark
plugs. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING)
4. Faulty coil rail 4. Test and replace, if necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL)
5. Intake manifold vacuum leak 5. Inspect intake manifold gasket and
vacuum hoses. Replace if necessary.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/
INTAKE MANIFOLD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs1. Replace spark plugs or clean and
set gap.
2. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed2. Replace spark plug cables.
3. Dirt in fuel system 3. Clean fuel system
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves 4. Install new valves
5. Faulty coil rail 5. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/COIL RAIL - REMOVAL)
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 5
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

Page 1250 of 2199

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of
round or worn6. Grind journals or replace
crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/
flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean
and reinstall
8. Oil pump suction tube loose,
broken, bent or clogged8. Inspect suction tube and clean or
replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup
plug4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS OIL FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE
EMISSIONS - DESCRIPTION) for
correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon
piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 7
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

Page 1251 of 2199

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder CYLINDER COMBUSTION
PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
9 - 8 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

Page 1252 of 2199

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

Page 1253 of 2199

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gaskets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1)
Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuff-
ing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will
clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
9 - 10 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
ENGINE - 4.0L (Continued)

Page 1265 of 2199

(12) Install the push rods, rocker arms, pivots and
bridges in the order they were removed (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the engine cylinder head cover (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(14) Attach the air conditioner compressor mount-
ing bracket to the engine cylinder head and block.
Tighten the bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Attach the air conditioning compressor to the
bracket. Tighten the bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
torque.
CAUTION: The serpentine drive belt must be routed
correctly. Incorrect routing can cause the water
pump to turn in the opposite direction causing the
engine to overheat.
(16) Install the serpentine drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(17) Install the air cleaner and ducting.
(18) Connect the hoses to the engine thermostat
housing and fill the cooling system to the specified
level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(19) The automatic transmission throttle linkage
and cable must be adjusted after completing the
engine cylinder head installation (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - AW4/
THROTTLE VALVE CABLE - ADJUSTMENTS).
(20) Install the temperature sending unit and con-
nect the wire connector.
(21) If equipped with air conditioning, install A/C
compressor (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR -
INSTALLATION) and charge A/C system (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(22) Connect negative cable to battery.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN DIRECT
LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT HANDS NEAR
THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR
LOOSE CLOTHING.
(23) Operate the engine with the radiator cap off.
Inspect for leaks and continue operating the engine
until the engine thermostat opens. Add coolant, if
required.CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder head cover (Fig. 11) is made of
stamped steel and incorporates the Crankcase Venti-
lation (CCV) Hoses and the oil fill opening.
REMOVAL
The cylinder head cover is isolated from the cylin-
der head via grommets and a reusable molded rubber
gasket. The grommet and limiter are retained in the
cylinder head cover.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Disconnect the Crankcase Ventilation (CCV)
vacuum hose from engine cylinder head cover.
(3) Disconnect the fresh air inlet hose from the
engine cylinder head cover.
(4) Disconnect the accelerator, transmission, and
speed (if equipped) control cables from the throttle
body (Fig. 12).
(5) Remove the three bolts that fasten the control
cable bracket to the intake manifold.
(6) Remove control cables from cylinder head cover
clip.
(7) Position control cables and bracket away from
cylinder head cover secure with tie straps.
(8) Remove the engine cylinder head cover mount-
ing bolts.
(9) Remove the engine cylinder head cover and
gasket.
Fig. 11 Cylinder Head Cover
9 - 22 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

Page 1285 of 2199

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists
of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that effec-
tively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the
upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-
free operation.
(1) Remove transmission inspection cover.
(2) Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove main bearing cap brace.
(4) Remove rear main bearing cap (No.7).
(5) Push upper seal out of the groove. Ensure that
the crankshaft and seal groove are not damaged.
(6) Remove lower half of the seal from the bearing
cap.
INSTALLATION
The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists
of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that effec-
tively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the
upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-
free operation.
(1) Wipe the seal surface area of the crankshaft
until it is clean.
(2) Apply a thin coat of engine oil.
(3) Coat lip of the seal with engine oil.
(4) Carefully position the upper seal into the
groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces
toward the front of the engine.
(5) Apply MopartGasket Maker sealer on both
sides of cylinder block as shown in (Fig. 51). The dab
of sealer should be 3 mm (0.125 in.) in diameter.
(6) Apply MopartGasket Maker on the rear bear-
ing cap (Fig. 51). The bead should be 2.3 mm (0.09
in.) in diameter. DO NOT apply sealer to the lip of
the seal.
(7) Position the lower seal into the bearing cap
recess and seat it firmly. Be sure the seal is flush
with the cylinder block pan rail.
(8) Coat the outer curved surface of the lower seal
with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil.
(9) Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT
strike the cap more than twice for proper engage-
ment.
(10) Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 N´m (80
ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Install the main bearing cap brace. Tighten
nuts to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).(13) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant on cylinder block to rear main bearing cap cor-
ners and cylinder block to front cover joints (four
places) (Fig. 52)
(14) Install transmission inspection cover.
Fig. 51 Location of Sealer
1-DOWEL
2-SEALER LOCATIONS
3-CYLINDER BLOCK
4-HALFWAY BETWEEN
5-REAR FACE OF CYLINDER BLOCK
6-3mm (0.125 in.)
Fig. 52 Oil Pan
1 - SEALER LOCATIONS
9 - 42 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ

Page 1297 of 2199

All Jeep engines are equipped with a high quality
full-flow, throw-away type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler
Corporation recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss or filter
adapter housing (Fig. 75).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) Make sure old gasket comes off with oil filter.
With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface
(Fig. 76) of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 76) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The oil pan is made of stamped steel. The oil pan
gasket is a one piece steel backbone silicone coated
gasket (Fig. 77).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOV-
AL).
(7) Remove the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(8) If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect
the sensor.
(9) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
Fig. 75 Oil FilterÐ4.0L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - ADAPTER
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 76 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 77 Oil Pan
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
9 - 54 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL FILTER (Continued)

Page 1299 of 2199

(9) Lower the engine until it is properly located on
the engine mounts.
(10) Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
(11) Lower the jack stand and remove the piece of
wood.
(12) Install the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(13) Install the engine starter motor. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to
the engine exhaust manifold.
(15) Install transmission oil cooling lines (if
equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that
attach to the oil pan studs.
(16) Install the oil pan drain plug (Fig. 81).
Tighten the plug to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(17) Lower the vehicle.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
(19) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the specified
level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(20) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The 3±wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor
(sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure
gallery.
OPERATION
The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They
are:
²A 5±volt power supply from the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM)
²A sensor ground through the PCM's sensor
return
²A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure
The oil pressure sensor has a 3±wire electrical
function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pres-
sure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures
relate to different output voltages.
A 5±volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM
to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage
signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to theinstrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit
(depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure
gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the
sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise
sensor return.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
82).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer
assembly must be installed to assure an airtight
seal.
Fig. 82 Oil Pump Assembly
1 - OIL FILTER ADAPTOR
2 - BLOCK
3 - GASKET
4 - OIL INLET TUBE
5 - OIL PUMP
6 - STRAINER ASSEMBLY
7 - ATTACHING BOLTS
9 - 56 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL PAN (Continued)

Page 1300 of 2199

INSTALLATION
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold (Fig. 83) is made of cast alu-
minum and uses eleven bolts to mount to the cylin-
der head. This mounting style improves sealing and
reduces the chance of leaks.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
NOTE: THE ENGINE INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANI-
FOLD MUST BE REMOVED AND INSTALLED
TOGETHER. THE MANIFOLDS USE A COMMON
GASKET AT THE CYLINDER HEAD.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner inlet hose from the resona-
tor assembly.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove the throttle cable, vehicle speed control
cable (if equipped) and the transmission line pres-
sure cable (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC - AW4/THROTTLE VALVE
CABLE - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect the following electrical connections
and secure their harness out of the way:
²Throttle Position Sensor
²Idle Air Control Motor
²Coolant Temperature Sensor (at thermostat
housing)
²Intake Air Temperature Sensor
²Oxygen Sensor
²Crank Position Sensor
²Six (6) Fuel Injector Connectors
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor.
(6) Disconnect HVAC, and Brake Booster vacuum
supply hoses at the intake manifold.
(7) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect and remove the fuel system supply
line from the fuel rail assembly.
(9) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(10) Remove the power steering pump from the
intake manifold and set aside.
(11) Raise the vehicle.
(12) Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the engine
exhaust manifolds.
(13) Lower the vehicle.
(14) Remove the intake manifold and exhaust
manifold bolts and manifolds (Fig. 84).
INSTALLATION
If the manifold is being replaced, ensure all the fit-
ting, etc. are transferred to the replacement mani-
fold.
(1) Install a new engine exhaust/intake manifold
gasket over the alignment dowels on the cylinder
head.
(2) Position the engine exhaust manifolds to the
cylinder head. Install fastener Number 3 and finger
tighten at this time (Fig. 84).
Fig. 83 Intake Manifold 4.0L Engine
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 57
OIL PUMP (Continued)

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