Radiator NISSAN TEANA 2003 Service Manual

MA-28
ENGINE MAINTENANCE (VQ23DE AND VQ35DE)

3. Disconnect heater hose (left side of vehicle) at the position in
the figure.

Enhance heater hose as high as possible.
4. Fill radiator and reservoir tank with water and install radiator cap.

When engine coolant overflows disconnected heater hose, connect heater hose, and continue filling the
engine coolant.
5. Install air duct assembly. Refer to EM-131, "
AIR CLEANER AND AIR DUCT" .
6. Run engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
7. Rev engine two or three times under no-load.
8. Stop engine and wait until it cools down.
9. Drain water from the system. Refer to MA-26, "
DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" .
10. Repeat steps 1 through 9 until clear water begins to drain from radiator.
Checking Cooling SystemBLS0005M
WARNING:
Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot; serious burns could be caused by high pres-
sure fluid escaping from the radiator.
Wrap a thick cloth around the cap and carefully remove it by turning it a quarter turn to allow built-up
pressure to escape and then turn the cap all the way off.
CHECKING COOLING SYSTEM HOSES
Check hoses for improper attachment, leaks, cracks, damage, loose connections, chafing and deterioration.
If necessary, repair or replace damaged parts.
CHECKING RADIATOR CAP

Check valve seat of radiator cap.
–Check if valve seat is swollen to the extent that the edge of the
plunger cannot be seen when watching it vertically from the top.
–Check if valve seat has no soil and damage.

Pull negative-pressure valve to open it, and make sure that it is
completely closed when released.
–Make sure that there is no dirt or damage on the valve seat of
radiator cap negative-pressure valve.
–Make sure that there are no unusualness in the opening and
closing conditions of negative-pressure valve.
PBIC2810E
PBIC2816E
SMA967B

ENGINE MAINTENANCE (VQ23DE AND VQ35DE)
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Check radiator cap relief pressure.
–When connecting radiator cap to the radiator cap tester (com-
mercial service tool) and the radiator cap tester adapter [SST],
apply engine coolant to the cap seal surface.

Replace radiator cap if there is an unusualness related to the above three.
CAUTION:
When installing radiator cap, thoroughly wipe out the radiator filler neck to remove any waxy residue
or foreign material.
CHECKING RADIATOR
Check radiator for mud or clogging. If necessary, clean radiator as follows.

Be careful not to bend or damage the radiator fins.

When radiator is cleaned without removal, remove all surrounding parts such as cooling fan, radiator
shroud and horns. Then tape harness and electrical connectors to prevent water from entering.
1. Apply water by hose to the back side of radiator core vertically downward.
2. Apply water again to all radiator core surface once per minute.
3. Stop washing if any stains no longer flow out from radiator.
4. Blow air into the back side of radiator core vertically downward.

Use compressed air lower than 490 kPa (4.9 bar, 5 kg/cm2 , 71 psi) and keep distance more than 30 cm
(11.8 in).
5. Blow air again into all the radiator core surfaces once per minute until no water sprays out.
CHECKING COOLING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS

To check for leaks, apply pressure to the cooling system with
radiator cap tester (commercial service tool) and radiator cap
tester adapter [SST].
WARNING:
Do not remove radiator cap when engine is hot. Serious
burns could occur from high-pressure engine coolant
escaping from radiator.
CAUTION:
Higher testing pressure than specified may cause radiator
damage.
NOTE:
In a case engine coolant decreases, replenish radiator with engine coolant.

If anything is found, repair or replace damaged parts.Standard:
78 - 98 kPa (0.78 - 0.98bar, 0.8 - 1.0 kg/cm
2 , 11 - 14 psi)
Limit:
59 kPa (0.59bar, 0.6 kg/cm
2 , 9 psi)
SLC755AC
Testing pressure
: 157 kPa (1.57 bar, 1.6 kg/cm
2 , 23 psi)
SLC756AA

MA-36
CHASSIS AND BODY MAINTENANCE

5. Recheck A/T fluid level at A/T fluid temperatures of 50 to 80°C (122 to 176°F) using “HOT” range on A/T
fluid level gauge.
CAUTION:

When wiping away the A/T fluid level gauge, always use lint-free paper, not cloth one.

Firmly fix the A/T fluid level gauge to the A/T fluid charging pipe using a stopper attached.
6. Check A/T fluid condition.

If ATF is very dark or smells burned, checking operation of A/
T. Flush cooling system after repair of A/T.

If ATF contains frictional material (clutches, bands, etc.),
replace radiator and flush cooler line using cleaning solvent
and compressed air after repair of A/T. Refer to CO-37,
"RADIATOR" , CO-40, "RADIATOR (ALUMINUM TYPE)" .
7. Install the removed A/T fluid level gauge in the A/T fluid charging
pipe.
CAUTION:
Firmly fix the A/T fluid level gauge to the A/T fluid charging
pipe using a stopper attached.
Changing A/T FluidBLS0009G
1. Warm up ATF.
2. Stop engine.
3. Drain ATF from drain plug and refill with new ATF. Always refill same volume with drained ATF.
CAUTION:
Do not reuse drain plug gasket.
4. Run engine at idle speed for 5 minutes.
5. Check A/T fluid level and condition. Refer to MA-35, "
Checking A/T Fluid" . If ATF is still dirty, repeat steps
2 through 5.
Checking CVT FluidBLS0009H
Fluid level should be checked with the fluid warmed up to 50 to 80°C (122 to 176°F). The fluid level check pro-
cedure is as follows:
SAT638A
Fluid grade:
Genuine NISSAN ATF Matic Fluid D or equivalent.
Refer to MA-14, "
RECOMMENDED FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS"
.
Fluid capacity
For QR20DE engine models
: Approx. 8.4 (7-3/8 lmp qt)
For VQ23DE engine models
: Approx. 8.9 (7-7/8 lmp qt)
Drain plug:
: 34 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ft-lb)

CHASSIS AND BODY MAINTENANCE
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1. Check for fluid leakage.
2. With the engine warmed up, drive the vehicle in an urban area.
When ambient temperature is 20°C (68°F), it takes about 10
minutes for the CVT fluid to warm up to 50 to 80°C (122 to
176°F).
3. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
4. Apply parking brake firmly.
5. With engine at idle, while depressing brake pedal, move shift
selector throughout the entire shift range.
6. Pull out the CVT fluid level gauge from the CVT fluid charging
pipe after pressing the tab on the CVT fluid level gauge to
release the lock.
7. Wipe fluid off the CVT fluid level gauge. Insert the CVT fluid
level gauge rotating 180° from the originally installed position,
then securely push the CVT fluid level gauge until it meets the
top end of the CVT fluid charging pipe.
CAUTION:
When wiping away the CVT fluid level gauge, always use
lint-free paper, not a cloth rag.
8. Place the selector lever in “P” or “N” and make sure the fluid
level is within the specified range.
CAUTION:
When reinstalling CVT fluid level gauge, insert it into the
CVT fluid charging pipe and rotate it to the original installa-
tion position until it is securely locked.
9. Check CVT fluid condition.

If CVT fluid is very dark or smells burned, check operation of
CVT. Flush cooling system after repair of CVT.

If CVT fluid contains frictional material (clutches, bands, etc.),
replace radiator and flush cooler line using cleaning solvent
and compressed air after repair of CVT. Refer to CO-37,
"RADIATOR" .
SMA146B
SCIA1933E
SCIA1931E
SCIA1932E
ATA0022D

MA-38
CHASSIS AND BODY MAINTENANCE

Changing CVT FluidBLS0009I
1. Warm up CVT fluid by driving the vehicle for 10 minutes.

: Vehicle front

Radiator (2)

CVT fluid cooler hose [inlet side (3)]

Transaxle assembly (4)
2. Drain CVT fluid from CVT fluid cooler hose [outlet side (1)] and
refill with new CVT fluid at CVT fluid charging pipe with the
engine running at idle speed.
3. Refill until new CVT fluid comes out from CVT fluid cooler hose
[outlet side (1)].
About 30 to 50% extra fluid will be required for this procedure.
CAUTION:

Use only Genuine NISSAN CVT Fluid NS-2. Do not mix with other fluid.

Using CVT fluid other than Genuine NISSAN CVT Fluid NS-2 will deteriorate in driveability and
CVT durability, and may damage the CVT, which is not covered by the warranty.

When filling CVT fluid, take care not to scatter heat generating parts such as exhaust.

Delete CVT fluid deterioration date with CONSULT-II after changing CVT fluid. Refer to CVT-46,
"Check CVT Fluid Deterioration Date" .
4. Check fluid leakage, fluid level and condition.
Balancing Wheels (Bonding Weight Type)BLS0005W
REMOVAL
1. Remove inner and outer balance weights from the road wheel.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to scratch the road wheel during removal.
2. Using releasing agent, remove double-faced adhesive tape from the road wheel.
CAUTION:

Be careful not to scratch the road wheel during removal.

After removing double-faced adhesive tape, wipe clean traces of releasing agent from the road
wheel.
WHEEL BALANCE ADJUSTMENT

If a tire balance machine has adhesion balance weight mode settings and drive-in weight mode setting,
select and adjust a drive-in weight mode suitable for road wheels.
1. Set road wheel on wheel balancer using the center hole as a guide. Start the tire balance machine.
2. When inner and outer unbalance values are shown on the wheel balancer indicator, multiply outer unbal-
ance value by 5/3 to determine balance weight that should be used. Select the outer balance weight with
a value closest to the calculated value above and install it to the designated outer position of, or at the
designated angle in relation to the road wheel.
CAUTION:

Do not install the inner balance weight before installing the outer balance weight.CVT fluid:
Genuine NISSAN CVT Fluid NS-2
Fluid capacity:
Approx. 10.2 (9 lmp qt)
SCIA6088E

MA-46
SERVICE DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (SDS)

SERVICE DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS (SDS)PFP:00030
Standard and LimitBLS00068
BELT DEFLECTION (QR20DE)
BELT DEFLECTION (VQ23DE AND VQ35DE)
ENGINE COOLANT CAPACITY (APPROXIMATE) (QR20DE)
Unit: (lmp qt)
ENGINE COOLANT CAPACITY (APPROXIMATE) (VQ23DE AND VQ35DE)
Unit: (lmp qt)
RADIATOR
Unit: kPa (bar, kg/cm2 , psi)
ENGINE OIL CAPACITY (APPROXIMATE) (QR20DE)
Unit: (lmp qt) Tension of drive belt Auto adjustment by auto-tensioner
Deflection adjustment Unit: mm (in)
Used belt
New belt
Limit After adjustment
Alternator and A/C compressor
belt7 (0.28)4.2 - 4.6
(0.17 - 0.18)3.7 - 4.1
(0.15 - 0.16)
Power steering oil pump belt 11 (0.43)7.3 - 8.0
(0.29 - 0.30)6.5 - 7.2
(0.26 - 0.28)
Applied pushing force 98 N (10 kg, 22 lb)
PBIC2449E
Engine coolant capacity (With reservoir tank at “MAX” level) 7.4 (6-1/2)
Reservoir tank coolant capacity (At “MAX” level) 0.8 (3/4)
Coolant capacity (With reservoir tank at “MAX” level)8.2 (7-1/4) [VQ23DE]
8.8 (7-3/4) [VQ35DE]
Reservoir tank coolant capacity (At “MAX” level) 0.8 (3/4)
Cap relief pressureStandard 78 - 98 (0.78 - 0.98, 0.8 - 1.0, 11 - 14)
Limit 59 (0.59, 0.6, 9)
Leakage test pressure 157 (1.57, 1.6, 23)
Drain and refillWith oil filter change 3.9 (3-3/8)
Without oil filter change 3.7 (3-1/4)
Dry engine (Overhaul)4.5 (4)

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
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TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. Trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. Rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

SC-30
CHARGING SYSTEM

Removal and InstallationBKS0027E
VQ23DE AND VQ35DE MODELS
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove engine undercover, using power tools.
3. Remove radiator. Refer to CO-37, "
RADIATOR" in “ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM (CO)” section.
4. Remove alternator and air conditioner compressor belt. Refer to EM-129, "
Removal and Installation" in
“ENGINE MECHANICAL (EM)” section.
5. Remove idler pulley.
6. Remove alternator mounting nut, using power tools.
7. Remove through bolt.
8. Disconnect alternator connector.
9. Remove B terminal nut.
10. Remove ground harness clip and ground harness mounting nut.
1. Through-bolt 2. Cylinder block 3. Timing chain case
4. Alternator mounting nut 5. Alternator 6. Alternator connector
7. B terminal harness 8. B terminal nut 9. Alternator mounting bolt
10. Alternator bracket 11. Alternator bracket mounting bolt
PKIA2926J
PKIA2431E
PKIA2432E

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
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TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. Trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. Rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.