automatic transmission SAAB 9-7X 2006 User Guide

Page 243 of 434

Notice:If the StabiliTrak®light comes on due to
heavy braking and/or because the traction control
system has been continuously active, do not allow
the wheel(s) of one axle to spin excessively. If you
do, you may be causing damage to the transfer case.
This could lead to costly repairs not covered by your
warranty.
Notice:If you allow the wheel(s) of one axle to spin
excessively while the StabiliTrak
®, ABS and brake
warning lights and the SERVICE STABILITRAK
message are displayed, you could damage the
transfer case. The repairs would not be covered by
your warranty. Reduce engine power and do not spin
the wheel(s) excessively while these lights and this
message are displayed.
StabiliTrak
®may activate on dry or rough roads or under
conditions such as heavy acceleration while turning or
abrupt upshifts/downshifts of the transmission. When this
happens, you may notice a reduction in acceleration, or
may hear a noise or vibration. This is normal.
If your vehicle is in cruise control when the system
activates, the StabiliTrak
®light will blink, and the
cruise control will automatically disengage. When road
conditions allow, you may re-engage the cruise control.
SeeCruise Control on page 3-11.StabiliTrak
®will turn off automatically if a problem is
detected in the system. The StabiliTrak®light will come
on and SERVICE STABILITRAK will be displayed on
the DIC. For vehicles without a DIC, the StabiliTrak
®
light and the StabiliTrak®service light will both come on.
If the SERVICE STABILITRAK message (or StabiliTrak®
service light) does not clear itself after restarting the
vehicle, you should see your dealer for service.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s
performance. SeeAccessories and Modications
on page 5-3for more information.
All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System
Your vehicle has this feature. There is no lever or switch
to engage or disengage the front axle. It is fully automatic
and adjusts as needed for road conditions. Your vehicle
has an active transfer case allowing two-wheel-drive
operation on dry roads. The transfer case will shift
automatically into all-wheel drive on slippery surfaces.
You may feel an extra shift when the all-wheel drive
engages.
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Page 279 of 434

Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers you’re
about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are
seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down,
you might have to use your brakes so much that they
would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear, under heavy
loads or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on
steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar
to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run
while parked (preferably on level ground) with the
automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-27.
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Page 280 of 434

Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels
away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your
wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid (don’t overll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt(s), cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re
trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before
you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Page 283 of 434

Service............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modications..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle . . .5-4
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-5
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-16
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-19
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-21
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-22
Engine Coolant.............................................5-24
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-27
Engine Overheating.......................................5-27
Cooling System............................................5-29
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-34
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-35Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-36
Brakes........................................................5-37
Battery........................................................5-40
Jump Starting...............................................5-41
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-46
Rear Axle.......................................................5-47
Front Axle......................................................5-48
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-49
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-49
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting............5-49
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-50
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker,
and Parking Lamps....................................5-50
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker,
Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps...................5-52
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-53
Windshield Replacement.................................5-53
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-53
Tires..............................................................5-56
Tire Sidewall Labeling...................................5-57
Tire Terminology and Denitions.....................5-60
Ination - Tire Pressure.................................5-62
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-65
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-66
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-29.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid on
page 5-36.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-35.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-22.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-27.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.
I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-41.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-37.
K. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-40.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-99.
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A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-29.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-36.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-22.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-27.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-41.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-35.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-37.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-99.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-40.
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Page 304 of 434

Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
Automatic Transmission Fluid
A good time to check your automatic transmission uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change the uid and lter at the intervals listed in
Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure
to use the transmission uid listed inRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage your
transmission. Too much can mean that some of the
uid could come out and fall on hot engine part or
exhaust system parts, starting a re. Too little uid
could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure
to get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission uid.Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission uid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the uid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above
50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the
vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold uid check can be made after the vehicle has been
sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this
is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for
ve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or
more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to
idle the engine longer. Should the uid level be low during
this cold check, you must check the uid hot before
adding uid. Checking the uid hot will give you a more
accurate reading of the uid level.
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Page 305 of 434

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
The automatic transmission
dipstick handle with this
symbol on it is located in
the engine compartment
on the passenger’s side
of the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The uid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or
in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an
accurate reading.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle down
to lock the dipstick in place.
Consistency of Readings
Always check the uid level at least twice using the
procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable
readings) is important to maintaining proper uid level.
If inconsistent readings persist, contact your dealer.
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How to Add Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission uid to use. SeeRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
Add uid only after checking the transmission uid while
it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the
uid level is low, add only enough of the proper uid to
bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does
not take much uid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L).
Do not overll.
Notice:Use of the incorrect automatic transmission
uid may damage your vehicle, and the damages
may not be covered by your warranty. Always
use the automatic transmission uid listed in
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
After adding uid, recheck the uid level as
described under “How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.
When the correct uid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is lled with
DEX-COOL®engine coolant. This coolant is designed
to remain in your vehicle for ve years or 150,000 miles
(240 000 km), whichever occurs rst, if you add only
DEX-COOL
®extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how
to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem
with engine overheating, seeEngine Overheating
on page 5-27.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX-COOL
®coolant will:
Give freezing protection down to−34°F (−37°C).
Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C).
Protect against rust and corrosion.
Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as they
should.
Notice:Using coolant other than DEX-COOL
®may
cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator
corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may
require changing sooner, at the rst maintenance
service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or
24 months, whichever occurs rst. Any repairs
would not be covered by your warranty. Always use
DEX-COOL
®(silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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Page 323 of 434

Jump Starting
If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to
use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start
your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it
safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous
because:
They contain acid that can burn you.
They contain gas that can explode or
ignite.
They contain enough electricity to
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or
all of these things can hurt you.Notice:Ignoring these steps could result in costly
damage to your vehicle that would not be covered
by your warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it
will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
Notice:If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be
damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems
with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you do not want. You would not be able
to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the
parking brake rmly on both vehicles involved in the
jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission
in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL
before setting the parking brake. If you have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case
is not in NEUTRAL.
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