tow SAAB 9-7X 2008 Service Manual

Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with a seven-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness has a seven-pin universal
heavy-duty trailer connector (if equipped with the
trailering package) that is attached to a bracket on
the hitch platform. If your vehicle is not equipped with
the heavy-duty trailer connector, you can purchase
one from your Saab dealer.
The seven-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Running Lamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Dark Blue: Electric Brakes
Red: Battery Feed (The chassis wiring ring terminal
must be fastened to a stud on the underhood
electrical center before the trailer feed will
become active.)
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector
is available from your dealer.
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery,
turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle system
voltage and properly charge the battery.
Your vehicle is also equipped with wiring for an
electric trailer brake controller. These wires are
located inside the vehicle on the driver’s side under
the instrument panel. These wires should be connected
to an electric trailer brake controller by your dealer or
a qualied service center.
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Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is below the L mark for the L6 engine or
the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick
for the V8 engine, add at least one quart/liter of the
recommended oil. This section explains what kind of
oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-122.
Notice:Do not add too much oil. If the engine
has so much oil that the oil level gets above the
cross-hatched area (F) that shows the proper
operating range for the L6 engine or above the
cross-hatched area for the V8 engine, the engine
could be damaged.
L6 Engine
V8 Engine
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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. Flip the handle up and then remove the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
The automatic transmission
dipstick handle with this
symbol on it is located in
the engine compartment
on the passenger’s side
of the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.
2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three seconds
and then pull it back out again. If the dipstick does
not go down the tube easily, turn the blade and
try again until it is fully inserted in the tube.3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The uid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or
in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an
accurate reading.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, reinstall
the dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
Consistency of Readings
Always check the uid level at least twice using the
procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable
readings) is important to maintaining proper uid level. If
inconsistent readings persist, contact your dealer/retailer.
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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn
you badly, even if you just open the hood.
Stay away from the engine if you see or hear
steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get
everyone away from the vehicle until it cools
down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or
coolant before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch re.
You or others could be badly burned. Stop
your engine if it overheats, and get out of
the vehicle until the engine is cool.
Notice:If your engine catches re because you
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not
be covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ller neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ow out of the
ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages so
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal
and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping
or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system
functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
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Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly
tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-122.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When
you change a wheel, remove any rust or
dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt
off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-86.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely.
Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire.
If it moves, tighten the cable. SeeStoring a Flat
or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-98.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions,
inuence when you need new tires.
One way to tell when it is
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which appear
when your tires have only
1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less
of tread remaining. Some
commercial truck tires may
not have treadwear
indicators.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would use
in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
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The tools you will be using include the wheel wrench (A),
wheel blocks (B), extension(s), (socket end) (C),
handle (jack end) (D), and jack (E).
A. Wheel Wrench
B. Hoist Shaft
C. Extension
D. Retainer
E. Spare or Flat Tire (Valve
Stem Pointed Up)The following instructions explain how to remove the
underbody-mounted spare located underneath your
vehicle.
Notice:If you remove or restow a tire from/to
the storage position under the vehicle while it is
supported by a jack, you could damage the tire
and/or your vehicle. Always remove or restow a
tire when the vehicle is on the ground.
1. Open the liftgate. SeeLiftgate/Liftglass on
page 2-12for more information.
2. Attach the wheel wrench (A) to the extension (C).
3. Insert the socket end of the extension (C) on a
45 degree angle downward into the hoist drive
shaft hole. It is exposed when the rear gate is
open and is just above the rear bumper.
Be sure the socket end of the extension (C)
connects to the hoist shaft (B).
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8. Remove all the wheel
nuts and the at tire.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-86.
9. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
10. Place the spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface.
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{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
Because the nuts might come loose. The
vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash.
11. Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone
shaped end is toward the wheel.
12. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held
against the hub. If a nut cannot be turned by
hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer
as soon as possible.
13. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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