steering wheel SATURN VUE 2004 Owner's Manual

Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or
is about to stall, and I cannot make it up
the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do?
First, here is what youshoulddo:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep
it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking
brake.
If your engine is still running, shift the transaxle to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).
If your engine has stopped running, you will
need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed
and the parking brake still applied, shift the
transaxle to PARK (P) (or, shift to NEUTRAL if
you have a manual transaxle) and restart the
engine. Then shift to REVERSE (R), release the
parking brake, and slowly back down the hill
as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position.
This way you will be able to tell if your wheels
are straight and maneuver as you back down.It is best that you back down the hill with your
wheels straight rather than in the left or right
direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or
right will increase the possibility of a rollover.
Here are some things youmust notdo if you stall, or
are about to stall, when going up a hill.
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch if you
have a manual transaxle) to “rev-up” the engine
and regain forward momentum. This will not work.
Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly
and you could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the
vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake,
and slowly back straight down.
Never attempt to turn around if you are about
to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep
enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to
cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you
cannot make it up the hill you must back straight
down the hill.
4-24
ProCarManuals.com

Stalling on an Incline
If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline,
be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill
side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you
get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll
over, you will be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
{CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a
vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous.
If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed
or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high)
side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the
rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate
as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need
longer braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you
do not get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as
on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to
sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating and braking. Drive at a reduced speed
and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And, if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
4-28
ProCarManuals.com

After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.
4-30
ProCarManuals.com

What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin
and polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you will want to begin stopping sooner than you
would on dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-7.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
ne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear
in shaded areas where the sun can not reach:
around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
4-41
ProCarManuals.com

If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you
will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as
“rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck,
but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin
the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle
back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.
See “Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out.”
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-76.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle
has traction control, you should turn the system off.
SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and
a forward gear (or with a manual transaxle, between
FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)),
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on
the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear.
By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that
may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out
after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or,
you can use recovery hook if your vehicle has one.
If you do need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle
on page 4-46.
4-44
ProCarManuals.com

4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position with a clamping device designed for towing.
5. Release the parking brake.
Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear
Notice:Towing your vehicle from the rear could
damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by
the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed
from the rear.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels
on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly
carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the
Certication/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do,
parts on your vehicle can break, and it can
change the way your vehicle handles. These
could cause you to lose control and crash.
Also, overloading can shorten the life of
your vehicle.
4-49
ProCarManuals.com

And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that
the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer when towing a trailer, you’ll need to go much
farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return
to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring. See your
retailer if you need information. The arrows on your
instrument panel will ash whenever you signal a turn or
lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps
will also ash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
4-59
ProCarManuals.com

(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:The United States
version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as
the rst two characters in the tire size means a light
truck tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire
and Rim Association.
(B) Tire Width:The three-digit number indicates the
tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
(C) Aspect Ratio:A two-digit number that indicates
the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if
the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the
illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is
75% as high as it is wide.
(D) Construction Code:A letter code is used to
indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter
R means radial ply construction; the letter D means
diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means
belted-bias ply construction.(E) Rim Diameter:Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description:The service description
indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The
load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings
range from A to Z. The light truck tire size example
above shows dual or single tire congurations.
Tire Terminology and Denitions
Air Pressure:The amount of air inside the tire pressing
outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure
is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight:This means the combined weight
of optional accessories. Some examples of optional
accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering,
power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air
conditioning.
Aspect Ratio:The relationship of a tire’s height to
its width.
Belt:A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made
from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by
steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire
5-66
ProCarManuals.com

Notice:If your vehicle has a tire size other than
P235/65R16, P235/60R17 or 245/50R18 size tires, use
tire chains only where legal and only when you must.
Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the
proper size for your tires. Install them on the front
tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the
ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the
chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the
chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten
them. If the contact continues, slow down until it
stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with
chains on will damage your vehicle.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-77
ProCarManuals.com

Maintenance Footnotes
†The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to
the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
maintenance be recorded.
(a)Visually inspect brake lines and hoses for proper
hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks, chang, etc. Inspect
disc brake pads for wear and rotors for surface
condition. Inspect drum brake linings for wear or cracks.
Inspect other brake parts, including drums, wheel
cylinders, calipers, parking brake, etc.
(b)Visually inspect front and rear suspension and
steering system for damaged, loose or missing parts or
signs of wear.
(c)Visually inspect hoses and have them replaced if
they are cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect
all pipes, ttings and clamps; replace with genuine
Saturn parts as needed. To help ensure proper
operation, a pressure test of the cooling system and
pressure cap and cleaning the outside of the radiator
and air conditioning condenser is recommended at least
once a year.(d)Visually inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking.
Replace blade inserts that appear worn or damaged
or that streak or miss areas of the windshield.
(e)Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your
belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages
are working properly. Look for any other loose or
damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything
that might keep a safety belt system from doing its
job, have it repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts
replaced. Also look for any opened or broken airbag
coverings, and have them repaired or replaced.
(The airbag system does not need regular maintenance.)
(f)Lubricate all key lock cylinders, door hinges and
latches, hood hinges and latches, glove box hinges,
sunroof (if equipped) and any folding seat hardware.
More frequent lubrication may be required when
exposed to a corrosive environment. Applying silicone
grease on weatherstrips with a clean cloth will make
them last longer, seal better and not stick or squeak.
(g)Check system for interference or binding and
for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts as needed.
Replace any components that have high effort or
excessive wear.
6-9
ProCarManuals.com