key BMW 3 SERIES 1983 E30 Owner's Manual

3 Interior trim- maintenance
1
Interior trim panels can be kept clean by
wiping with a damp cloth. If they do become
stained (which can be more apparent on light-
coloured trim), use a little liquid detergent and
a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the
grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the
headlining clean in the same way. After
cleaning, application of a high-quality rubber
and vinyl protector will help prevent oxidation
and cracks. The protector can also be applied
to weatherstrips, vacuum lines and rubber
hoses, which often fail as a result of chemical
degradation, and to the tyres.
4 Upholstery and carpets-
maintenance
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
5 Bodywork repair-
minor damage
3
Note:For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce
a book by Lindsay Porter called “The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual”. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well as
details on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal insidethe area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat
this also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is
worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly,
particularly where carpets are involved.
Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.

5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Align the
lid-to-hinge bolts with the marks made during
removal.
6After refitting, close the lid and make sure
it’s in proper alignment with the surrounding
panels. Fore-and-aft and side-to-side
adjustments are controlled by the position of
the hinge bolts in the slots. To make an
adjustment, loosen the hinge bolts, reposition
the lid, and retighten the bolts.
7The height of the lid in relation to the
surrounding body panels when closed can be
changed by loosening the lock and/or striker
bolts, repositioning the striker and/or lock,
and tightening the bolts (see illustrations).
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Tailgate
8Disconnect the battery negative cable.
9Open the tailgate and cover the rear edge
of the roof with pads or cloths to protect the
painted surfaces when the tailgate isremoved. On 5-Series models, the window
may be removed separately by disconnecting
the wiring and unscrewing the mounting
screws - have an assistant hold the window
while the screws are being loosened (see
illustration).
10Remove the trim from the inside of the
tailgate. Also where necessary on 5-Series
models, remove the edge covers for access to
the strut mountings.
11Disconnect the wiring loom and the
washer tubing. On some models, it will be
necessary to pull the wiring loom out of the
rear pillar and then disconnect the plug (see
illustration).
12While an assistant holds the tailgate open,disconnect the struts on both sides by
unscrewing the mounting screws. Where
applicable, pull out the retaining pin or spring
clip, and remove the strut from the ball (see
illustrations).
13Mark the position of the hinge arms on the
tailgate with a pencil.
14Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the
tailgate from the hinge arms. On 5-Series
models, it will be necessary to use an Allen
key or bit (see illustration).
15Refitting is the reverse of removal, but
make sure that the previously-made marks
are correctly aligned. Check that the tailgate
closes centrally between the rear pillars and
enters the lock correctly.
Bodywork and fittings 11•7
14.7b Adjust the boot lid lock striker after
loosening the bolts (arrowed)14.7a Loosen the lock bolts (arrowed) and
move the lock to adjust the boot lid closing
position14.3 Mark around the hinge bolts so you
can refit the boot lid in its original location
- unscrew or loosen the boot lid-to-hinge
bolts to remove or adjust it
14.12c Removing the retaining pin to
disconnect the bottom of the tailgate
support strut (5-Series)14.12b Strut mounting on the tailgate
(5-Series)14.12a Removing the tailgate strut spring
clip (3-Series)
14.11 Removing the wiring from the rear
pillar (5-Series)14.9 Tailgate window mounting screws
(5-Series)
11

19 Steering column shrouds -
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10).
3Remove the upper shroud screws (see
illustration).
4Remove the two screws from the underside
of the column (see illustration).
5Detach the lower shroud, then lift the upper
half off the column (see illustrations).
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
20 Seats- removal and refitting
1
Front seat
1Remove the four bolts securing the seat
track to the floorpan, and lift the seat from the
vehicle (see illustration). On some models, it
will be necessary to disconnect the seat
heating wiring; it may also be necessary to
detach the seat belt from the seat.2Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the retaining bolts securely.
Rear seat cushion
3If applicable, first remove the two retaining
bolts. Grasp the front of the cushion
(Saloon/Convertible models) or the rear of the
cushion (Touring/Estate models) securely, and
pull up sharply (see illustration).
4Refitting is the reverse of the removal.
21 Seat belt check
1
1Check the seat belts, buckles, lock plates
and guide loops for obvious damage and
signs of wear.
2Where applicable, check that the seat belt
reminder light comes on when the ignition key
is turned to the Run or Start position.
3The seat belts are designed to lock up
during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free
movement during normal driving. Check thatthe retractors return the belt against your
chest while driving and rewind the belt fully
when the buckle is unlocked.
4If any of the above checks reveal problems
with the seat belt system, renew parts as
necessary.
5Belts which have been subject to impact
loads must be renewed.
Bodywork and fittings 11•9
19.5a Pull the tilt lever down (where fitted),
and lower the shroud from the steering
column19.4 The lower screws are located under
the tilt lever (where fitted)19.3 Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove
the upper column shroud screws
20.3 Grasp the seat at the front edge and
pull up sharply (Saloon/Convertible
models)20.1 The front seats are held in place by
bolts (arrowed)
19.5b Rotate the upper shroud up and off
the steering column
11

12
Chapter 12 Body electrical systems
Bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Central locking system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Cruise control system - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Direction indicator/hazard warning flasher - check and renewal . . . 5
Electric windows - description and check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Electrical system fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Fuses - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Headlights - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Headlights - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Heated rear window - check and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Ignition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Instrument cluster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Radio - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Relays - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Service Indicator (SI) board - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Steering column switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) - general information . . . . . . 18
Windscreen/tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 16
Wiring diagrams - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents
1 General information
The chassis electrical system of this vehicle
is of 12-volt, negative earth type. Power for
the lights and all electrical accessories is
supplied by a lead/acid-type battery, which is
charged by the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for various chassis (non-engine
related) electrical components. For
information regarding the engine electrical
system components (battery, alternator,
distributor and starter motor), see Chapter 5.
Warning: To prevent electrical
short-circuits, fires and injury,
always disconnect the battery
negative terminal before
checking, repairing or renewing electrical
components.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
2 Electrical system fault
finding- general information
2
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers,
etc related to that component, and the wiring
and connectors that link the components to
both the battery and the chassis. To help you
pinpoint an electrical circuit problem, wiring
diagrams are included at the end of this book.
Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate wiring
diagrams to get a complete understanding of
what makes up that individual circuit.
Troublespots, for instance, can often be
isolated by noting if other components related
to that circuit are routed through the same
fuse and earth connections.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes such as loose or corroded
connectors, a blown fuse, a melted fusible
link, or a bad relay. Inspect all fuses, wires
and connectors in a problem circuit first.
The basic tools needed include a circuit
tester, a high-impedance digital voltmeter, a
continuity tester and a jumper wire with an in-
line circuit breaker for bypassing electrical
components. Before attempting to locate or
define a problem with electrical testinstruments, use the wiring diagrams to
decide where to make the necessary
connections.
Voltage checks
Perform a voltage check first when a circuit
is not functioning properly. Connect one lead
of a circuit tester to either the negative battery
terminal or a known good earth.
Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester
lights up, voltage is present, which means that
the part of the circuit between the connector
and the battery is problem-free. Continue
checking the rest of the circuit in the same
fashion.
When you reach a point at which no voltage
is present, the problem lies between that point
and the last test point with voltage. Most of
the time, problems can be traced to a loose
connection.Note:Keep in mind that some
circuits receive voltage only when the ignition
key is turned to a certain position.
Electrical fault diagnosis is simple if you
keep in mind that all electrical circuits are
basically electricity running from the battery,
through the wires, switches, relays, fuses and
fusible links to each electrical component
(light bulb, motor, etc) and then to earth, from
where it is passed back to the battery. Any
electrical problem is an interruption in the flow
of electricity to and from the battery.

12•16 Wiring diagrams
Key to Motronic engine control system wiring diagram
Key to cruise control system wiring diagram

12•20 Wiring diagrams
Key to wiring diagram for the central locking, burglar alarm, on-board computer, additional heater and digital clock

12•22 Wiring diagrams
Key to electric window system wiring diagram
Key to headlight washer system wiring diagram

Wiring diagrams 12•25
12
Key to wiring diagram for heated seats
Key to air conditioning system wiring diagram

Wiring diagrams 12•27
12
Key to wiring diagram for memory power seats

Wiring diagrams 12•31
12
Key to wiring diagram for power seats without memory
Key to radio wiring diagram