Anti lock BMW 3 SERIES 1985 E30 Owner's Guide

and push it through until the forward end
comes out at the handbrake lever.
8Insert the cable conduit through the
backplate, and attach the rear end of the
cable to the handbrake lever (rear drum
models) or the actuator (rear disc models).
Make sure you don’t kink the cable while
connecting it.
9Refit the cable conduit to the clips on the
back of the trailing arm.
10On rear drum models, refit the brake
shoes and drum (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, refit the handbrake shoes and
actuator (see Section 12) and the rear brake
disc (see Section 5).
11Lower the vehicle, and refit the adjusting
nut at the handbrake lever. Adjust the
handbrake cable (see Section 11) and refit the
handbrake lever boot.
11 Handbrake- adjustment
2
Rear drum brake models
Note:Adjustment of the handbrake cable(s)
on models with rear drum brakes should only
be necessary when you renew a cable or
detach if from the rear brake assembly for
some reason. Failure of the handbrake system
to hold the vehicle usually indicates worn
brake shoes or a faulty self-adjusting
mechanism.
1Raise the rear of the vehicle, and place it
securely on axle stands.
2Fully release the handbrake lever, then
apply the brakes firmly several times with the
footbrake pedal.
3Pull the handbrake lever up five clicks.
4Tighten or loosen the adjusting nuts by
equal amounts until the rear brake shoes just
begin to drag on the brake drum. You should
feel the same amount of resistance at both
wheels when you rotate them.
5Release the handbrake lever, and verify that
the wheels rotate freely. If they don’t, re-
adjust them.
Rear disc brake models
Note: The handbrake system is not self-
adjusting on models with rear disc brakes. The
handbrake therefore requires periodic
adjustment to compensate for wear. It should
also be adjusted anytime either cable, brake
disc or handbrake assembly is renewed or
removed for some reason.
6Slowly apply the handbrake, and count the
number of clicks at the lever. If the lever can
be pulled up further than the eighth click,
adjust the handbrake cable as follows.
7Peel back the handbrake lever boot, and
loosen the cable adjusting nut (see
illustration 10.1). On some models, it may be
necessary to remove the centre console
completely for access.
8Loosen a single bolt in each rear wheel.Raise the vehicle and place it securely on axle
stands.
9Remove the bolt you loosened in each rear
wheel. Turn the wheel until, using a torch, you
can see the adjuster starwheel through the
bolt hole.
10Turn the adjuster - clockwise to expand
the shoes, anti-clockwise to retract them -
until the brake shoes just contact the brake
drum (see illustration 5.6d). Back off the
brake shoes so the wheel spins freely (three to
four teeth on the adjuster). Note:If the
adjuster starwheel is hard to turn, remove the
wheel and brake disc, lubricate the adjuster
wheel, and try again.
11With the disc fitted, apply the handbrake
three times to stretch and seat the cables,
then slowly pull up on the handbrake lever to
the fifth click. Tighten the cable adjusting nuts
by equal amounts until the rear brake shoes
just touch the brake drum. Verify that both
wheels have the same amount of resistance.
12Release the handbrake, and verify that
both rear wheels rotate freely.
13Tighten the wheel bolts to the torque
listed in Chapter 1 Specifications.
12 Handbrake assembly-
check, removal and refitting
2
Warning: The handbrake linings
on rear disc brake models may
be manufactured of asbestos-
based material. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 6. When
servicing these components, do not create
dust by grinding or sanding the linings.
1The handbrake system should be checked
regularly. With the vehicle parked on a hill,
apply the handbrake, select neutral, and
check that the handbrake alone will hold the
vehicle when the footbrake is released (be
sure to stay in the vehicle during this check).
However, every 2 years (or whenever a fault is
suspected), the assembly itself should be
inspected.
2With the vehicle raised and supported onaxle stands, remove the rear wheels.
3On rear brake drum models, refer to
Chapter 1; checking the thickness of the
brake shoes is a routine maintenance
procedure.
4On rear disc brake models, remove the rear
discs as outlined in Section 5. Support the
caliper assemblies with a coat hanger or
heavy wire; do not disconnect the brake line
from the caliper.
5With the disc removed, the handbrake
components are visible, and can be inspected
for wear and damage. The linings should last
the life of the vehicle. However, they can wear
down if the handbrake system has been
improperly adjusted, or if the handbrake is
regularly used to stop the vehicle. There is no
minimum thickness specification for the
handbrake shoes, but as a rule of thumb, if
the shoe material is less than 1.5 mm thick,
you should renew them. Also check the
springs and adjuster mechanism and inspect
the drum for deep scratches and other
damage.
Removal and refitting
Note:The following procedure applies only to
models with rear disc brakes. The handbrake
system on models with rear drum brakes is an
integral part of the rear brake assembly (see
Section 6).
6Loosen the rear wheel bolts, raise the rear
of the vehicle and place it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Remove the
brake discs (see Section 5). Work on only one
side at a time, so you can use the other side
as a reference during reassembly, and to
avoid mixing up parts.
7Remove the shoe return and hold-down
springs (see illustrations).
8Remove the shoes (see illustration).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. When
you’re done, the actuator should be properly
seated between the two shoes as shown (see
illustration).
10After refitting the brake disc, adjust the
handbrake shoes. Temporarily refit two wheel
bolts, turn the adjuster (see illustration 5.6d)
and expand the shoes until the disc locks,
9•12 Braking system
12.7b Remove the upper shoe
return spring12.7a Remove the lower shoe return
spring (diagonal cutting pliers are being
used here because they grip the spring
well, but care must be taken not to cut or
nick the spring)

simply unscrew it. Plug the open fitting in the
caliper if the hose is removed for any length of
time, to prevent dirt ingress.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Make sure the brackets are in
good condition and the locknuts are securely
tightened. Renew the spring clips if they don’t
fit tightly.
6Carefully check to make sure the
suspension and steering components do not
make contact with the hoses. Have an
assistant turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock during inspection.
7Bleed the brake system as described in
Section 16.
Metal brake line renewal
8When renewing brake lines, use genuine
parts only - preferably from a BMW dealer.
9Genuine BMW brake lines are supplied
straight. You’ll need a pipe-bending tool to
bend them to the proper shape.
10First, remove the line you intend to renew,
lay it on a clean workbench and measure it
carefully. Obtain a new line of the same
length, and bend it to match the pattern of the
old line.
Warning: Do not crimp or
damage the line. No bend should
have a smaller radius than
14 mm. Make sure the protective
coating on the new line is undamaged at
the bends.
11When fitting the new line, make sure it’s
well supported by the brackets, that the
routing matches the original, and that there’s
plenty of clearance between movable
components or those components which will
become hot.
12After refitting, check the master cylinder
fluid level, and add fluid as necessary. Bleed
the brake system as outlined in Section 16,
and test the brakes carefully before driving the
vehicle. Be sure there are no leaks.
16 Brake hydraulic system-
bleeding
3
Warning: Wear eye protection
when bleeding the brake system.
If the fluid comes in contact with
your eyes, immediately rinse
them with water, and seek medical
attention. Most types of brake fluid are
highly flammable, and may ignite if spilled
onto hot engine components, for example.
In this respect, brake fluid should be
treated with as much care as if it were
petrol. When topping-up or renewing the
fluid, always use the recommended type,
and ensure that it comes from a freshly-
opened sealed container. Never re-use old
brake fluid bled from the system, and don’t
top-up with fluid which has been standing
open for a long time, as it is potentially
dangerous to do so.
Note:Bleeding the hydraulic system is
necessary to remove any air which has
entered the system during removal and
refitting of a hose, line, caliper or master
cylinder.
1It will probably be necessary to bleed the
system at all four brakes if air has entered the
system due to low fluid level, or if the brake
lines have been disconnected at the master
cylinder.
2If a brake line was disconnected at only one
wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder
need be bled.
3If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting
located between the master cylinder and any
of the brakes, that part of the system served
by the disconnected line must be bled.
4Bleed the right rear, the left rear, the right
front and the left front brake, in that order,
when the entire system is involved.
5Remove any residual vacuum from the
brake servo by applying the brakes about 30
times with the engine off. This will also relieve
any pressure in the anti-lock brake system
(where applicable).
6Remove the master cylinder reservoir
cover, and fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
Refit the cover. Note:Check the fluid level
often during the bleeding operation, and add
fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid level
from falling low enough to allow air into the
master cylinder.
7Have an assistant on hand, an empty clear
plastic container, and a length of clear plastic
or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleed screws.
Alternatively, a “one-man” bleeding kit can be
used. A “one-man” kit usually contains a tubeor bottle with a one-way valve incorporated -
in this way, the pedal can be pumped as
normal, but air is not drawn back into the
system when the pedal is released. If a one-
man kit is used, follow the instructions
provided with it; similarly with pressure
bleeding kits. In any case, you will also need a
supply of new brake fluid of the
recommended type, and a spanner for the
bleed screw.
8Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the
bleed screw slightly, then tighten it to a point
where it is tight but can still be loosened
quickly and easily.
9Place one end of the tubing over the bleed
nipple, and submerge the other end in brake
fluid in the container (see illustration).
10Have the assistant pump the brakes a few
times, then hold the pedal firmly depressed.
Note:If the vehicle is equipped with ABS,
have the assistant pump the pedal at least 12
times.
11While the pedal is held depressed, open
the bleed screw just enough to allow a flow of
fluid to leave the caliper or wheel cylinder.
Your assistant should press the brake pedal
smoothly to the floor, and hold it there. Watch
for air bubbles coming out of the submerged
end of the tube. When the fluid flow slows
after a couple of seconds, close the screw
and have your assistant release the pedal.
12Repeat paragraphs 10 and 11 until no
more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten
the bleed screw and proceed to the left rear
wheel, the right front wheel and the left front
wheel, in that order, and perform the same
procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir frequently.
Warning: Never re-use old brake
fluid. It absorbs moisture from
the atmosphere, which can allow
the fluid to boil and render the
brakes inoperative.
13Refill the master cylinder with fluid at the
end of the operation.
14Check the operation of the brakes. The
pedal should feel solid when depressed, with
no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire
process. Do not operate the vehicle if you are
in doubt about the effectiveness of the brake
system.
9•14 Braking system
16.9 Place one end of the tubing over the
bleed screw, and submerge the other end
in brake fluid in the container
15.3 A typical brake line-to-brake hose
connection: To disconnect it, use one
spanner to hold the hex-shaped fitting on
the end of the flexible hose (lower right
arrow) and loosen the threaded fitting on
the metal line with a split ring (“brake”)
spanner (upper right arrow), then remove
the spring clip (left arrow)
Brake fluid is an effective
paint stripper, and will attack
plastics; if any is spilt, wash it
off immediately with copious
amounts of water.

Torque wrench settingsNm
Front suspension
Strut damper rod nut
Rod with external hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Rod with internal hexagon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Strut cartridge threaded collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Strut upper mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Front control arm (3-Series)
Control arm-to-steering knuckle balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . 64
Control arm-to-subframe balljoint nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Control arm bush bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Lower control arm (5-Series)
Control arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . 85
Control arm pivot bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Thrust arm (5-Series)
Thrust arm-to-steering arm balljoint stud nut . . . . . . . . . . 85
Thrust arm through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Front hub (wheel bearing) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Steering arm-to-strut bolts (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Anti-roll bar (3-Series)
Anti-roll bar-to-connecting link bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets-to-subframe . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link-to-bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Connecting link bracket-to-control arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Anti-roll bar (5-Series)
Anti-roll bar mounting brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Anti-roll bar link-to-strut housing locknut
Yellow chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
White chrome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
10•2 Suspension and steering systems
Torque wrench settingsNm
Rear suspension
Rear shock absorber (3-Series)
Shock absorber-to-upper mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 15
Shock absorber-to-trailing arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Rear shock absorber (5-Series)
Lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 to 142
Upper mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24
Upper spring mounting-to-shock absorber locknut . . . . . 22 to 24
Trailing arms (3-Series)
Trailing arm-to-lower mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 85
Trailing arm-to-anti-roll bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 23
Trailing arms (5-Series)
Trailing arm-to-rear axle carrier (rubber bush
through-bolt and nut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Trailing arm-to-axle carrier connecting link (1983-on) . . . 126
Rear wheel bearing drive flange axle nut (5-Series)
M22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 to 210
M27 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 to 260
Steering system
Steering wheel retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Steering column universal joint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering gear-to-subframe mounting bolts (3-Series) . . . . . 41
Steering box-to-front suspension subframe bolts (5-Series) 42
Track rod end-to-steering arm nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Track rod end clamping bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Pitman arm-to-steering box (5-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Steering linkage balljoints (all) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
1 General information
Warning: Whenever any of the
suspension or steering fasteners
are loosened or removed, they
must be inspected and if
necessary, new ones fitted, of the same
part number or of original-equipment
quality and design. Torque specifications
must be followed for proper reassembly
and component retention. Never attempt
to heat, straighten or weld any suspension
or steering component. Any bent or
damaged parts must be renewed.
The front suspension (see illustrations)is a
MacPherson strut design. The struts are
secured at the upper ends to reinforced areas
at the top of the wheel arches, and at the
lower ends to the steering arms/control arms.
An anti-roll bar is attached to the control arms
via connecting links, and to the suspension
subframe (3-Series models) or the underbody
(5-Series models).
The independent rear suspension system
on 3-Series models (see illustration)features
coil springs and telescopic shock absorbers.
The upper ends of the shock absorbers are
attached to the body; the lower ends are
connected to trailing arms. An anti-roll bar is
attached to the trailing arms via links, and to
the body with clamps.
The independent rear suspension system on
5-Series models (see illustration)uses coil-over shock absorber units instead of separate
shock absorbers and coil springs. The upper
ends are attached to the body; the lower ends
are connected to the trailing arms. The rear
suspension of 5-Series models is otherwise
similar to that of 3-Series models: two trailing
arms connected by an anti-roll bar.
The steering system consists of the
steering wheel, a steering column, a universal
joint shaft, the steering gear, the powersteering pump (where fitted) and the steering
linkage, which connects the steering gear to
the steering arms. On 3-Series models, a
rack-and-pinion steering gear is attached
directly to the steering arms via the track rods
and track rod ends. On 5-Series models, a
recirculating-ball steering box is connected to
the steering arms via a Pitman arm, a centre
track rod, the outer track rods and the track
rod ends.
1.1a Front suspension and steering components (3-Series models)
1 Subframe 3 Anti-roll bar link 5 Strut 7 Steering gear
2 Anti-roll bar 4 Control arm 6 Track rod end

2 Front anti-roll bar-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
2If you’re removing or renewing the anti-roll
bar itself, or disconnecting the bar to renew
the strut assembly on a 3-Series model,
disconnect it from the anti-roll bar links (see
illustrations). If you’re renewing the strut
assembly on a 5-Series model, disconnect the
anti-roll bar link from the strut housing.
3On 3-Series models, disconnect the left
control arm rubber bush from the underbody
(see Section 3).
4Remove the bolts from the anti-roll bar
brackets which attach the anti-roll bar to the
subframe (see illustration).
5Remove the anti-roll bar from the vehicle.
Where necessary, separate the anti-roll bar
from the strut bar bracket.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Be sure to tighten all nuts and
bolts to the torques listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
3 Control arm (3-Series)-
inspection, removal and
refitting, and bush renewal
3
Inspection
1Raise the front end of the vehicle, and
support it securely on axle stands.
2Grip the top and bottom of each balljoint
with a large pair of water pump (“parrot jaw”)
pliers, and squeeze to check for free play.
Alternatively, insert a lever or large
screwdriver between the control arm and the
subframe or strut housing. If there’s any free
play, renew the control arm (the balljoints
can’t be renewed separately).
3Inspect the rubber bush. If it’s cracked, dry,
torn or otherwise deteriorated, renew it (see
below).
Bush renewal
Note:Rubber bushes should always be
renewed in pairs. Make sure both new bushes
have the same markings (indicating they’re
manufactured by the same firm).
4Remove the two bolts (see illustration)which
attach the bush bracket to the underbody.
5Using a puller, remove the bracket andbush from the end of the control arm. If the
puller slips on the end of the control arm,
centre-punch the control arm to give the
puller bolt a place to seat.
6Note the orientation of the old bush. This is
exactly how the new bush should be
orientated when it’s fitted. Press the old
rubber bush out of the bracket, or have it
pressed out by an engineering works.
7Coat the end of the control arm with BMW’s
special lubricant (Part No. 81 22 9 407 284),
and press the new bush and bracket onto the
arm - or have it pressed on at an engineering
works - all the way to the stop.
Caution: Don’t try to use any
other type of lubricant;
30 minutes after it’s applied, this
lubricant loses its properties and
the bush is permanently located in its
proper position. Make sure the new bush
is pressed on so it’s orientated exactly the
same way as the old bush.
8Refit the bracket bolts and tighten them to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
9Lower the vehicle, and leave it at rest for at
least 30 minutes (this will give the special
lubricant time to dry).
Control arm removal and
refitting
Note:If either balljoint is worn or damaged,
the only way to renew it is to renew the control
arm. If you’re fitting a new control arm, a new
bush must also be fitted. The old bush can’t
be removed from the old control arm and re-
used in the new control arm.
10Loosen but do not remove the wheel
bolts, raise the front of the vehicle and
support it on axle stands. Remove the wheel
bolts and the front wheel.
11Remove the two bolts which attach the
rubber bush bracket to the underbody (see
illustration 3.4).
12Remove the nut which secures the control
arm balljoint to the subframe, and remove the
balljoint stud from the subframe. Note:It may
be necessary to use a balljoint separator to
separate the balljoint from the subframe (see
illustration), but take care not to damage the
10•4 Suspension and steering systems
3.12 Remove the self-locking nut from the
balljoint stud protruding through the top of
the subframe (not shown in this photo, but
it’s directly above the balljoint) and
separate the balljoint from the subframe.
Try not to damage the dust boot
3.4 Remove the two bolts (arrowed)
securing the bush bracket to the
underbody
2.4 Remove the bolts (arrowed) from the
anti-roll bar brackets to detach the anti-
roll bar from the subframe (3-Series model
shown, 5-series similar)2.2b On 5-Series models, remove the nut
(arrowed) securing the anti-roll bar to the
connecting link (left side shown, right side
similar)2.2a On 3-Series models, remove the nut
(upper arrow) securing the anti-roll bar to
the upper end of the connecting link (left
side shown, right side similar). If a new
control arm is being fitted, remove the
lower nut (lower arrow) and disconnect the
link assembly and bracket from the arm

Bush inspection and renewal
8If the bush is cracked, torn or otherwise
deteriorated, take the arm to a BMW dealer
service department or an engineering works,
and have it pressed out and a new bush
pressed in. Bushes should always be renewed
in pairs (a new bush should be fitted in each
arm, and both bushes should have the same
manufacturer markings). If you’re fitting a new
thrust arm bush, make sure it’s correctly
orientated (see illustration).
Refitting
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to use new self-locking nuts on the balljoint
stud nut and the through-bolt. Don’t forget to
refit the washers on both sides of the through-
bolt. If you’re refitting the control arm, be sure
to use thread-locking compound on the
steering arm mounting bolts. Don’t tighten the
through-bolt to the final torque yet. Note:
Thrust arms are marked “L” for the left side,
and “R” for the right side. Be sure to check the
marking before fitting a new arm.
10Support the control arm with a trolley
jack, and raise it to simulate normal ride
height, then tighten the through-bolt to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.Refit the wheel and tighten the wheel bolts to
the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifi-
cations.
11Have the front end alignment checked at
a dealer service department or qualified
garage.
5 Front strut assembly-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note:Although strut assemblies don’t always
fail or wear out simultaneously, renew both left
and right struts at the same time, to prevent
handling peculiarities or abnormal ride quality.
1Loosen but do not remove the front wheel
bolts.
2Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on axle stands.
3Remove the front wheel.
4Detach all brake hoses and electrical wires
attached to the strut housing.
5Disconnect the electrical connections for
the ABS system, if applicable.
6If you’re removing the left strut, disconnectthe electrical connector for the brake pad
wear sensor.
7Remove the bolt securing the ABS wheel
sensor, if applicable. Remove the brake disc
(see Chapter 9).
8Remove the brake splash shield (see
illustration).
9On 3-Series models, disconnect the anti-
roll bar from its connecting link (see Sec-
tion 2). On 5-Series models, disconnect the
anti-roll bar link from the strut housing (see
Section 2).
10On 3-Series models, disconnect the
control arm balljoint from the steering knuckle
(see Section 3) and the track rod end from the
steering arm (see Section 17).
11On 5-Series models, disconnect the bolts
that attach the steering arm to the strut
housing (see illustration 4.5).
12Pull out the lower end of the strut housing
far enough to clear the end of the control arm
(3-Series) or the steering arm (5-Series).
13Support the weight of the strut and
remove the three mounting nuts at the top of
the strut, located inside the engine
compartment (see illustration)and remove
the strut.
14Remove the strut assembly. If a new
shock absorber (strut cartridge) is being fitted,
see Section 6.
Refitting
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. On
3-Series models, be sure to use new self-
locking nuts on the control arm balljoint, the
track rod end balljoint and the strut upper
mountings. On 5-Series models, make sure
the tang in the steering arm is mated with the
notch in the strut housing (see illustration).
BMW recommends using a thread-locking
compound on the steering arm mounting
bolts. On all models, tighten the fasteners to
the torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
16When you’re done, drive the vehicle to a
dealer service department or qualified garage
and have the wheel alignment checked, and if
necessary, adjusted.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
5.15 On 5-Series models, make sure the
tang in the steering arm is mated with the
notch in the strut housing (arrowed)5.13 Support the weight of the strut and
remove the three mounting nuts (arrowed)
at the top of the strut (5-Series shown,
3-Series similar)5.8 To remove the brake splash shield,
remove these three bolts (arrowed)
4.8 Correct orientation of the bush for the
5-Series thrust arm. The arrow on the
rubber bush is aligned with the mark on
the arm, and the centre of the bush is
concentric with the bore4.7c . . . but you may have to use a
hammer to knock the control arm balljoint
stud loose from the steering arm, because
there’s no room to use a puller. A purpose-
made balljoint separator tool would be
better

4On some models, working inside the boot,
you can remove the trim to access the upper
mounting nuts; on later models, you’ll have to
remove the rear seat back to get at the upper
mounting nuts. On Touring (Estate) models,
remove the side backrest and rear seat belt
reels, and unscrew the centring shell on the
wheel arch. On Convertibles, simply remove
the top from the recessed well behind the
passenger compartment, and remove the
small rubber access cover. As you remove the
mounting nuts (see illustration), have an
assistant support the shock absorber from
below so it doesn’t fall out.
5Look for oil leaking past the seal in the top
of the shock absorber body. Inspect the
rubber bushings in the shock absorber eye. If
they’re cracked, dried or torn, renew them. To
test the shock absorber, grasp the shock
absorber body firmly with one hand, and push
the damper rod in and out with the other. The
strokes should be smooth and firm. If the rod
goes in and out too easily, or unevenly, the
shock absorber is defective and must be
renewed.
Refitting
6Fit the shock absorbers in the reverse order
of removal, but don’t tighten the mounting
bolts and nuts yet.
7Bounce the rear of the vehicle a couple of
times to settle the bushings, then tighten the
nuts and bolts to the torque values listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications.
10 Rear coil springs (3-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Note: Although coil springs don’t always wear
out simultaneously, renew both left and right
springs at the same time, to prevent handling
peculiarities or abnormal ride quality.
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts. Chock the front
wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle andsupport it securely on axle stands. Make sure
the stands don’t interfere with the rear
suspension when it’s lowered and raised
during this procedure. Remove the wheels.
2Disconnect the mountings and brackets
which support the rear portion of the exhaust
system, and temporarily lower the exhaust
system (see Chapter 4). Lower the exhaust
system only enough to lower the suspension
and remove the springs. Suspend the exhaust
with a piece of wire.
3Support the differential with a trolley jack,
then remove the differential rear mounting
bolt. Push the differential down, and wedge it
into this lowered position with a block of
wood. This reduces the drive angle,
preventing damage to the CV joints when the
trailing arms are lowered to remove the
springs.
4Place a trolley jack under the trailing arm.
5If the vehicle has a rear anti-roll bar,
disconnect the bar from its connecting links,
or disconnect the links from the trailing arms
(see Section 12).
6Loop a chain through the coil spring, and
bolt the chain together, to prevent the coil
spring from popping out when the trailing arm
is lowered. Be sure to leave enough slack in
the chain to allow the spring to extend
completely.
7Disconnect the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see Section 9), carefully lower
the trailing arm and remove the coil spring.
Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. As the
trailing arm is raised back up, make sure the
spring seats properly.
11 Rear shock absorber/coil
spring assembly (5-Series)-
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note:Although shock absorbers don’t always
wear out simultaneously, renew both left and
right shock absorbers at the same time, to
prevent handling peculiarities or abnormal ride
quality.1Loosen the wheel bolts, then chock the
front wheels. Raise the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
2Remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (see illustration).
3On early models, peel back the trim inside
the luggage compartment far enough to
access the upper mounting nuts. To get at the
upper mounting nuts on later models, first
remove the rear seat cushion (see Chap-
ter 11), then remove the two bolts holding the
rear seat backrest, and remove the backrest.
Support the trailing arm with a jack, and
remove the upper mounting nuts (see
illustration). Lower the jack, and remove the
shock absorber and the gasket. To separate
the shock absorber and spring, refer to
Section 6.
Refitting
4Refitting is the reverse of removal. Don’t
forget to fit the gasket between the upper end
of the shock absorber and the body. Tighten
the upper nuts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Don’t tighten the
lower bolt until the vehicle is lowered.
5Lower the vehicle, and with it sitting at the
normal ride height, tighten the lower bolt to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations.
12 Rear anti-roll bar-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
Note:The rear anti-roll bar is mounted
basically the same way on all models. Follow
these general removal and refitting
procedures, keeping in mind any variations.
1Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands.
2Remove the anti-roll bar bracket bolts or
nuts (see illustration).
3Disconnect the anti-roll bar from the link at
each end of the bar (see illustrations)and
detach the anti-roll bar.
Suspension and steering systems 10•9
11.3 Shock absorber upper mounting nuts
(arrowed) on a later (E34) 5-Series model11.2 Remove the shock absorber lower
mounting bolt (arrowed)9.4 Shock absorber upper mounting nuts
(arrowed) - late-model convertible shown.
On other early models, upper nuts are
accessible from the luggage compartment;
on later models, they’re behind the back of
the rear seat, up under the parcel shelf
10

Refitting
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the nuts and bolts securely. Adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
8Top-up the fluid level in the reservoir (see
Chapter 1) and bleed the system (see Sec-
tion 23).
23 Power steering system-
bleeding
1
1To bleed the power steering system, begin
by checking the power steering fluid level and
adding fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle
on axle stands.
3Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Recheck the fluid level and top
up if necessary.
4Start the engine and run it at 1000 rpm or
less. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock again (three or four times) and recheck
the fluid level one more time. Note:On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, pump the
brake pedal five or six times before turning the
steering wheel. Once the fluid level remains
constant, continue turning the wheel back and
forth until no more bubbles appear in the fluid
in the reservoir.
5Lower the vehicle to the ground. Run the
engine and again turn the wheels from lock-
to-lock several more times. Recheck the fluid
level. Position the wheels straight-ahead.24 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If the vehicle is
equipped with an airbag, do not
attempt this procedure. Have it
performed by a dealer service
department or other qualified specialist, as
there is a risk of injury if the airbag is
accidentally triggered.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Using a small screwdriver, prise off the
BMW emblem in the centre of the steering
wheel.
3Remove the steering wheel nut, and mark
the relationship of the steering wheel hub to
the shaft (see illustration).
4On all 3-Series models, and on 1986 and
later 5-Series models, turn the ignition key to
the first position to unlock the ignition lock.
5Remove the steering wheel from thesteering shaft. If the wheel is difficult to
remove from the shaft, use a steering wheel
puller to remove it - don’t hammer on the
shaft.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to align the match marks you made on the
steering wheel and the shaft. Tighten the
steering wheel nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
25 Wheels and tyres-
general information
1
Note:For more information on care and
maintenance of tyres, refer to Chapter 1.
1All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with steel-belted radial tyres as
original equipment. Use of other types or
sizes of tyres may affect the ride and handling
of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types or
sizes of tyres, as the handling and braking
may be seriously affected. It’s recommended
that tyres be renewed in pairs on the same
axle; if only one new tyre is being fitted, be
sure it’s the same size, structure and tread
design as the other.
2Because tyre pressure has a substantial
effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tyres should be checked at least once a
month or before any extended trips (see
Chapter 1).
3Wheels must be renewed if they are bent,
heavily dented, leak air, or are otherwise
damaged.
4Tyre and wheel balance is important in the
overall handling, braking and performance of
the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely
affect handling and ride characteristics, as
well as tyre life. Whenever a new tyre is fitted,
the tyre and wheel should be balanced.
10•16 Suspension and steering systems
24.3 After removing the steering wheel
nut, mark the relationship of the steering
wheel to the steering shaft (arrowed) to
ensure proper alignment during
reassembly
22.6c Typical 5-Series power steering pump mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.6b . . . and mounting nut and bolt (arrowed)

19After adjustment, screw the stop pads in
or out to support the bonnet in its new
position (see illustration).
20The bonnet mechanism should be
lubricated periodically with grease, to prevent
sticking or jamming.
11 Bumpers-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Detach the bumper cover (if applicable) and
where necessary the front spoiler.
2Disconnect any wiring or other components
that would interfere with bumper removal.
3Support the bumper with a jack or axle
stand. Alternatively, have an assistant support
the bumper as the bolts are removed.
4Remove the retaining bolts and detach the
bumper.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the retaining bolts securely, then refit the
bumper cover and any other components that
were removed.
12 Door trim panel-
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery, Refer to the
information on page 0-7 at the front of this
manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove all door trim panel retaining screws
and door pull/armrest assemblies.3On models with manual (non-electric)
windows, remove the window regulator
handle (see illustration). On models with
electric windows, prise off the control switch
assembly and unplug it.
4Disengage the trim panel-to-door retaining
clips. Work around the outer edge until the
panel is free.
5Once all of the clips are disengaged, detach
the trim panel, unplug any electrical
connectors, and remove the trim panel from
the vehicle.
6For access to the inner door, carefully peel
back the plastic water shield.
Refitting
7Prior to refitting the door trim panel, be sure
to renew any clips in the panel which may
have come out (or got broken) during the
removal procedure.
8Plug in the electrical connectors (where
applicable) and place the panel in position in
the door. Press the door panel into place until
the clips are seated, then refit the
armrest/door pulls. Refit the window regulator
handle, where applicable.
13 Door- removal, refitting and
adjustment
1
Removal
1Remove the door trim panel (see Section
12). Disconnect any electrical connectors, andpush them through the door opening so they
won’t interfere with door removal.
2Place a trolley jack or axle stand under the
door, or have an assistant on hand to support
it when the hinge bolts are removed. Note: If a
jack or axle stand is used, place a rag between
it and the door, to protect the door’s painted
surfaces.
3Scribe or mark around the door hinges.
4Disconnect the door check strap by prising
the circlip out of the end of the pin, then slide
the pin out (see illustration). A roll pin is fitted
to some models; this is removed by driving it
out with a pin punch.
5Remove the hinge-to-door nuts, and
carefully lift off the door (see illustration).
Refitting and adjustment
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7Following refitting of the door, check the
alignment and adjust it if necessary as
follows:
a) Up-and-down and fore-and-aft
adjustments are made by loosening the
hinge-to-body nuts and moving the door
as necessary.
b) The door lock striker can also be adjusted
both up and down and sideways, to
provide positive engagement with the lock
mechanism. This is done by loosening the
mounting bolts and moving the striker as
necessary (see illustration).
14 Boot lid/tailgate- removal,
refitting and adjustment
1
Boot lid
1Open the boot lid, and cover the edges of
the boot compartment with pads or cloths to
protect the painted surfaces when the lid is
removed.
2Disconnect any cables or electrical
connectors attached to the boot lid that would
interfere with removal.
3Make alignment marks around the hinge
bolts (see illustration).
4Have an assistant support the lid, then
remove the lid-to-hinge bolts on both sides
and lift it off.
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
13.7 The door lock striker position can be
adjusted after loosening the screws
(arrowed)13.5 Remove the nuts (arrowed) and
detach the door from the hinges
13.4 Detach the circlip (arrowed) from the
tapered end of the pin12.3 On models without electric windows,
prise off the window regulator handle trim
piece for access to the retaining screw

5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Align the
lid-to-hinge bolts with the marks made during
removal.
6After refitting, close the lid and make sure
it’s in proper alignment with the surrounding
panels. Fore-and-aft and side-to-side
adjustments are controlled by the position of
the hinge bolts in the slots. To make an
adjustment, loosen the hinge bolts, reposition
the lid, and retighten the bolts.
7The height of the lid in relation to the
surrounding body panels when closed can be
changed by loosening the lock and/or striker
bolts, repositioning the striker and/or lock,
and tightening the bolts (see illustrations).
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Tailgate
8Disconnect the battery negative cable.
9Open the tailgate and cover the rear edge
of the roof with pads or cloths to protect the
painted surfaces when the tailgate isremoved. On 5-Series models, the window
may be removed separately by disconnecting
the wiring and unscrewing the mounting
screws - have an assistant hold the window
while the screws are being loosened (see
illustration).
10Remove the trim from the inside of the
tailgate. Also where necessary on 5-Series
models, remove the edge covers for access to
the strut mountings.
11Disconnect the wiring loom and the
washer tubing. On some models, it will be
necessary to pull the wiring loom out of the
rear pillar and then disconnect the plug (see
illustration).
12While an assistant holds the tailgate open,disconnect the struts on both sides by
unscrewing the mounting screws. Where
applicable, pull out the retaining pin or spring
clip, and remove the strut from the ball (see
illustrations).
13Mark the position of the hinge arms on the
tailgate with a pencil.
14Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the
tailgate from the hinge arms. On 5-Series
models, it will be necessary to use an Allen
key or bit (see illustration).
15Refitting is the reverse of removal, but
make sure that the previously-made marks
are correctly aligned. Check that the tailgate
closes centrally between the rear pillars and
enters the lock correctly.
Bodywork and fittings 11•7
14.7b Adjust the boot lid lock striker after
loosening the bolts (arrowed)14.7a Loosen the lock bolts (arrowed) and
move the lock to adjust the boot lid closing
position14.3 Mark around the hinge bolts so you
can refit the boot lid in its original location
- unscrew or loosen the boot lid-to-hinge
bolts to remove or adjust it
14.12c Removing the retaining pin to
disconnect the bottom of the tailgate
support strut (5-Series)14.12b Strut mounting on the tailgate
(5-Series)14.12a Removing the tailgate strut spring
clip (3-Series)
14.11 Removing the wiring from the rear
pillar (5-Series)14.9 Tailgate window mounting screws
(5-Series)
11

15 Latch, lock cylinder and
handles- removal, refitting
and adjustment
1
1Remove the trim panel(s) and, on the door,
the plastic shield (see Section 12).
Latch
2Disconnect the operating rods from the
latch (see illustration).
3Remove the latch retaining screws.
4Detach the latch assembly and withdraw it.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Lock cylinder
6Detach the linkage.
7Use a screwdriver to slide the retaining clip
off, and withdraw the lock cylinder.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Interior handle
9Disconnect the operating rod from the
handle.
10Remove the retaining screws and lift the
handle from the door.
11Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Exterior handle
12Lift up the handle for access, remove the
two retaining screws, then detach the handle
from the door.
13Refitting is the reverse of removal.
16 Door window glass-
removal and refitting
3
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Remove the door trim panel and the plastic
water shield (see Section 12).
3Prise the door inner and outer weatherstrips
from the door.
Front door
4Raise the window so that the mounting
bolts can be reached through the access hole.
If electric windows are fitted, temporarily
reconnect the battery cable to accomplish
this.
5Support the glass, and remove the retaining
bolts securing the glass to the regulator.
6Lift the window glass up and out of the door
window slot, then tilt it and remove it from the
door.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Rear door
8Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 1 to 5.
3-Series models
9Disengage the glass from the front guide
roller, and prise out the rubber window
guides.
10Remove the door handle screws, and
allow the handle assembly to hang out of the
way.
11Remove the rear window frame bolts,
push the frame into the door, and remove the
window glass.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal.
5-Series models
13Loosen the rear window guide mounting
bolt.14Detach the glass from the front guide
roller, disengage the glass from the guide
rails, then slide the glass to the rear and
remove by lifting from above.
15The fixed glass can be removed by
removing the guide rail bolts, then pulling the
rail down to the rear and detaching the glass.
16Refitting is the reverse of removal. The
rear window glass can be adjusted by
loosening the adjustment bolts, then raising
the glass to within one inch of the top of the
door opening. Adjust the glass-to-
opening gap evenly, then tighten the bolts
securely.
17 Door window regulator-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the door window glass (Sec-
tion 16).
2Remove the securing bolts or nuts, and lift
the window regulator assembly out of the
door (withdraw the regulator mechanism
through the access hole). On models with
electric windows, unplug the electrical
connector.
Refitting
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
18 Exterior mirror-
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1If it is required to renew the mirror glass
only, insert a small screwdriver through the
hole in the bottom of the exterior mirror, and
carefully lever clockwise the plastic holder on
the rear of the glass (ie move the bottom of
the screwdriver to the right). This will release
the glass, which can then be withdrawn. If
electric mirrors are fitted, it will be necessary
to disconnect the wiring before completely
removing the glass.
2To remove the complete mirror, prise off
the cover panel (and/or the tweeter speaker,
where applicable).
3Unplug the electrical connector.
4Remove the retaining screws and lift the
mirror off
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
11•8 Bodywork and fittings
15.2 Typical door latch, lock cylinder and
handle details
14.14 Unscrewing the hinge mounting
bolts (5-Series)