maintenance BMW 3 SERIES 1985 E30 Workshop Manual

LIVING WITH YOUR BMW
IntroductionPage 0•4
Safety First!Page 0•6
Anti-theft audio system Page0•7
Instrument panel language display Page0•7
Roadside Repairs
Jacking, towing and wheel changing Page0•8
Jump startingPage0•9
Identifying leaksPage0•10
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and Servicing Page1•1
Lubricants and fluids Page1•3
Maintenance schedule Page1•4
Weekly checks Page1•7
Every 6000 miles Page1•11
Every 12 000 miles Page1•16
Every 24 000 miles Page1•23
Every 60 000 miles Page1•26
Contents

1
Engine
Oil filter
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C121
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C160
M30 engines
3-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C160
5-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X115
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X120
Valve clearances (intake and exhaust)
M10 engines
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm
M20 engines
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm
M30 engines
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 mm
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic adjusters
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40% antifreeze/60% water
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Automatic transmission fluid and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Brake system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Differential lubricant change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Differential lubricant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Engine idle speed and CO level check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 12
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Engine timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system check . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Fuel system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Manual transmission lubricant change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Manual transmission lubricant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Service light resetting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Spark plug check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Spark plug HT leads, distributor cap and rotor - check
and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Throttle linkage - check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Tune-up general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Underbonnet hoses - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Valve clearances - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Wiper blades - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
1•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents

Maintenance schedule
The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumption
that the vehicle owner will be doing the maintenance or service work,
as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work.
Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory rec-
ommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that
such items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervals
that promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject to
the preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or her
vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle’s ultimate
resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be
performed more often than recommended in the following schedule.
We encourage such owner initiative.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced initially by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, to protect the factory warranty.
In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the
owner (check with your dealer service department for more
information).
1•4Maintenance and servicing
Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever
comes first
m mCheck the engine oil level (Section 4)
m mCheck the engine coolant level (Section 4)
m mCheck the brake fluid level (Section 4)
m mCheck the clutch fluid level (Section 4)
m mCheck the washer fluid level (Section 4)
m mCheck the tyres and tyre pressures (Section 5)
Every 6000 miles or 6 months,
whichever comes first
All items listed above, plus:
m mChange the engine oil and oil filter (Section 6)
m mCheck the power steering fluid level (Section 7)
m mCheck the tyres, and rotate if necessary (Section 9)
m mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 8)
m mCheck the underbonnet hoses (Section 10)
m mCheck/adjust the drivebelts (Section 11)
m mCheck engine idle speed and CO (Section 12)
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months,
whichever comes first
All items listed above, plus:
m mCheck/service the battery (Section 13)
m mCheck the spark plugs (Section 14)
m mCheck/renew the HT leads, distributor cap and
rotor (Section 15)
m mCheck/top-up the manual transmission lubricant
(Section 16)
m mCheck the differential oil level (Section 17)
m mCheck the valve clearances, and adjust if
necessary - does not apply to M40 engines
(Section 18)
m mCheck and lubricate the throttle linkage (Section 19)
m mRenew the air filter (Section 20)
m mCheck the fuel system (Section 21)
m mInspect the cooling system (Section 22)
m mInspect the exhaust system (Section 23)
m mInspect the steering and suspension components
(Section 24)
m mCheck the driveshaft gaiter(s) (Section 25)
m mInspect the brakes (Section 26)
m mInspect/renew the windscreen wiper blades
(Section 27)
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years,
whichever comes first
All items listed above plus:
m mChange the automatic transmission fluid and filter
(Section 28)
m mDrain, flush and refill the cooling system (Section 29)
m mRenew the spark plugs (Section 14)
m mCheck/renew the spark plug HT leads (Section 15)
m mRenew the fuel filter (Section 30)
m mChange the manual transmission lubricant (Section 31)
m mChange the differential oil (Section 32)
m mCheck the evaporative emissions system, where
applicable (Section 33)
m mReset the service indicator lights (Section 34)
m mRenew brake fluid by bleeding (see Chapter 9)
m mCheck the handbrake operation (see Chapter 9)
Every 60 000 miles
m
mRenew the timing belt (Section 35)

1•5
Underbonnet view (left-hand side) of a
UK model 318i (1988)
1 Radiator
2 Intake manifold
3 Idle control valve
4 Accelerator cable
5 Diagnostic/service indicator resetting
socket
6 Fuse/relay box
7 Brake hydraulic fluid reservoir
8 Airflow meter
9 Air cleaner unit
10 Radiator filler cap
11 Radiator top hose
12 Oil filter housing
Underbonnet view (right-hand side) of a
UK model 318i (1988)
1 Oil filler cap
2 Valve cover
3 Engine oil filler dipstick
4 Viscous cooling fan
5 Distributor cap cover
6 Bottom hose
7 Windscreen washer fluid reservoir
8 Ignition coil
9 Clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir
10 Battery
1
Maintenance and Servicing

1•6Maintenance and Servicing
Front underbody view of a UK model 318i
(1988)
1 Radiator
2 Engine oil drain plug
3 Front suspension control arm (left-hand
side)
4 Front anti-roll bar
5 Clutch slave cylinder
6 Transmission
7 Exhaust downpipe
8 Front suspension control arm (right-hand
side)
Typical rear underside components
1 Exhaust system
2 Differential fill/check plug
3 Driveshaft boot
4 Fuel tank filler tube
5 Differential drain plug
6 Rear brake
7 Rear shock absorber

1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his or her vehicle with the
goals of maximum performance, economy,
safety and reliability in mind. Included is a
master maintenance schedule, followed by
procedures dealing specifically with each item
on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of various components. Servicing the vehicle,
in accordance with the mileage/time
maintenance schedule and the step-by-step
procedures, will result in a planned
maintenance programme that should produce
a long and reliable service life. Keep in mind
that it is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining
some items but not others at specified
intervals, will not produce the same results.
2 Routine maintenance
As you service the vehicle, you will discover
that many of the procedures can - and should
- be grouped together, because of the nature
of the particular procedure you’re performing,
or because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for chassis lubrication, you should inspect the
exhaust, suspension, steering and fuelsystems while you’re under the vehicle. When
the wheels are removed for other work, it
makes good sense to check the brakes, since
the wheels are already removed. Finally, let’s
suppose you have to borrow a torque wrench.
Even if you only need it to tighten the spark
plugs, you might as well check the torque of
as many critical nuts and bolts as time allows.
The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
procedures you’re planning to do, then gather
up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks
like you might run into problems during a
particular job, seek advice from a mechanic or
an experienced do-it-yourselfer.
3 Engine “tune-up”-
general information
The term “tune-up” is used in this manual to
represent a combination of individual
operations rather than one specific procedure.
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
More likely than not, however, there will be
times when the engine is running poorly due
to a lack of regular maintenance. This is even
more likely if a used vehicle, which has not
received regular and frequent maintenance
checks, is purchased. In such cases, an
engine tune-up will be needed outside of the
regular maintenance intervals. The first step in any tune-up or diagnostic
procedure to help correct a poor-running
engine is a cylinder compression check. A
compression check (see Chapter 2B) will help
determine the condition of internal engine
components, and should be used as a guide
for tune-up and repair procedures. If, for
instance, a compression check indicates
serious internal engine wear, a conventional
tune-up will not improve the performance of
the engine, and would be a waste of time and
money. Because of its importance, the
compression check should be done by
someone with the right equipment, and the
knowledge to use it properly.
The following procedures are those most
often needed to bring a generally poor-
running engine back into a proper state of
tune.
Minor tune-up
Check all engine-related fluids (Section 4)
Check all underbonnet hoses (Section 10)
Check and adjust the drivebelts (Sec-
tion 11)
Clean, inspect and test the battery (Sec-
tion 13)
Renew the spark plugs (Section 14)
Inspect the spark plug HT leads, distributor
cap and rotor (Section 15)
Check the air filter (Section 20)
Check the cooling system (Section 22)
Major tune-up
All items listed under minor tune-up, plus . . .
Check the ignition system (see Chapter 5)
Check the charging system (see Chapter 5)
Check the fuel system (see Chapter 4)
Renew the spark plug HT leads, distributor
cap and rotor (Section 15)
1•7
1
Routine Maintenance
Weekly checks
4 Fluid level checks
1
Note:The following are fluid level checks to
be done on a 250-mile or weekly basis.
Additional fluid level checks can be found in
specific maintenance procedures which
follow. Regardless of intervals, be alert to fluid
leaks under the vehicle, which would indicate
a fault to be corrected immediately.
1Fluids are an essential part of the
lubrication, cooling, brake and windscreen
washer systems. Because the fluids gradually
become depleted and/or contaminated during
normal operation of the vehicle, they must be
periodically replenished. See “Lubricants and
fluids”at the beginning of this Chapter before
adding fluid to any of the following
components. Note:The vehicle must be on
level ground when any fluid levels are
checked.
Engine oil
2Engine oil is checked with a dipstick, which
is located on the side of the engine (refer to
the underbonnet illustrations in this Chapter
for dipstick location). The dipstick extends
through a metal tube down into the sump.
3The engine oil should be checked before
the vehicle has been driven, or at least
15 minutes after the engine has been shut off.
4Pull the dipstick out of the tube, and wipe
all of the oil away from the end with a clean
rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all
the way back into the tube, and pull it out
again. Note the oil at the end of the dipstick.
At its highest point, the oil should be betweenthe two notches or marks (see illustration).
5It takes one litre of oil to raise the level from
the lower mark to the upper mark on the
dipstick. Do not allow the level to drop below
the lower mark, or oil starvation may cause
4.4 The oil level should be kept between
the two marks, preferably at or near the
upper one - if it isn’t, add enough oil to
bring the level to the upper mark
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper part of
the engine, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick.

engine damage. Conversely, overfilling the
engine (adding oil above the upper mark) may
cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks, or oil
seal failures.
6To add oil, remove the filler cap located on
the valve cover (see illustrations). After
adding oil, wait a few minutes to allow the
level to stabilise, then pull the dipstick out and
check the level again. Add more oil if required.
Refit the filler cap, tightening it by hand only.
7Checking the oil level is an important
preventive maintenance step. A consistently
low oil level indicates oil leakage through
damaged seals or defective gaskets, or oil
burning (internal leakage past worn rings or
valve guides). The condition of the oil should
also be noted. If the oil looks milky in colour or
has water droplets in it, the cylinder head
gasket may be blown, or the head or block
may be cracked. The engine should be
repaired immediately. Whenever you check
the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger
up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you
see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the
dipstick, the oil should be changed (see
Section 6).
Engine coolant
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the vehiclepaintwork. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly
toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in
puddles on the floor; children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, and may drink
it. Check with local authorities about
disposing of used antifreeze. Local
collection centres may exist, to see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.
8All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a pressurised coolant recovery
system. On most models, a white plastic
expansion tank (or coolant reservoir) located
in the engine compartment is connected by a
hose to the radiator. As the engine heats up
during operation, the expanding coolant fills
the tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is
automatically drawn back into the cooling
system, to maintain the correct level.
9The coolant level in the reservoir (see
illustrations)should be checked regularly.
Add a 40%/60% mixture of ethylene glycol-
based antifreeze to water (see illustration).
Warning: Do not remove the
expansion tank cap or radiator
cap to check the coolant level,
unless the engine is completely
cold! The level in the reservoir varies with
the temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should beabove the LOW mark on the reservoir.
Once the engine has warmed up, the level
should be at or near the FULL mark. If it
isn’t, allow the engine to cool, then remove
the cap from the reservoir.
10Drive the vehicle and recheck the coolant
level. If only a small amount of coolant is
required to bring the system up to the proper
level, plain water can be used. However,
repeated additions of water will dilute the
antifreeze. In order to maintain the proper
ratio of antifreeze and water, always top-up
the coolant level with the correct mixture.
11If the coolant level drops consistently,
there must be a leak in the system. Inspect
the radiator, hoses, filler cap, drain plugs and
water pump (see Section 29). If no leaks are
noted, have the expansion tank cap or
radiator cap pressure-tested by a BMW
dealer.
12If you have to remove the cap, wait until
the engine has cooled completely, then wrap
a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the
first stop. If coolant or steam escapes, let the
engine cool down longer, then remove the
cap.
13Check the condition of the coolant as
well. It should be relatively clear. If it’s brown
or rust-coloured, the system should be
drained, flushed and refilled. Even if the
coolant appears to be normal, the corrosion
1•8
4.9d Adding antifreeze mixture4.9c On some 5-Series models, the
expansion tank (coolant reservoir) is
located on the bulkhead4.9b On other models, the expansion tank
(coolant reservoir) is located on the side of
the engine compartment - remove the cap
to add coolant
4.9a On some models, the expansion tank
(coolant reservoir) is mounted on the
radiator - make sure the level is kept at or
near the FULL mark (arrowed)4.6b Topping-up the engine oil4.6a The threaded oil filler cap is located
in the valve cover - always make sure the
area around the opening is clean before
unscrewing the cap
Weekly Checks

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first
1•11
6.17a Unscrew the bolt . . .
1
Every 6000 miles
6 Engine oil and filter change
1
Warning: Prolonged skin contact
with used engine oil is
hazardous. Use a barrier cream
and wear gloves during this procedure.
Change out of oil-soaked clothing
immediately.
1Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of rags
or newspapers handy for mopping up oil spills2Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature - oil and sludge
will flow more easily when warm. If new oil, a
filter or tools are needed, use the vehicle to go
and get them, thus warming up the engine oil
at the same time.
3Park on a level surface, and switch off the
engine when it’s warmed up. Remove the oil
filler cap from the valve cover.
4Access to the oil drain plug and filter will be
improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist,
driven onto ramps, or supported by axle
stands.
Warning: DO NOT work under a
vehicle supported only by a
hydraulic or scissors-type jack -
always use axle stands!
5If you haven’t changed the oil on this
vehicle before, get under it, and locate the
drain plug and the oil filter. Note that on some
engines, the oil filter is located on the top left-
hand side of the engine. The exhaust
components will be hot as you work, so note
how they are routed to avoid touching them.
6Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, position a drain pan under the
plug in the bottom of the engine.
7Clean the area around the plug, then
remove the plug (see illustration). It’s a good
idea to wear a rubber glove while unscrewing
the plug the final few turns, to avoid being
scalded by hot oil. Hold the drain plug againstthe threads as you unscrew it, then pull it
away from the drain hole suddenly. This will
place your arm out of the way of the hot oil, as
well as reducing the chances of dropping the
drain plug into the drain pan.
8It may be necessary to move the drain pan
slightly as oil flow slows to a trickle. Inspect
the old oil for the presence of metal particles,
which could give early warning of engine
wear.
9After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Any small metal
particles clinging to the plug would
immediately contaminate the new oil.
10Refit the plug and tighten it securely. Use
a new washer if necessary.
11Move the drain pan into position under the
oil filter.
Canister-type oil filter
12Loosen the spin-off type oil filter by
turning it anti-clockwise with a filter spanner.
Any standard filter spanner will work.
13Sometimes the spin-off type oil filter is
screwed on so tightly that it can’t be easily
loosened. If it is, punch a metal bar or long
screwdriver directly through it, and use it as a
T-bar to turn the filter. Be prepared for oil to
spurt out of the canister as it’s punctured.
14Once the filter is loose, use your hands to
unscrew it from the block. Just as the filter is
detached from the block, immediately tilt the
open end up to prevent oil inside the filter
from spilling out.
15Using a clean rag, wipe off the mounting
surface on the block. Also, make sure that
none of the old sealing ring remains stuck to
the mounting surface. It can be removed with
a scraper if necessary.
16Compare the old filter with the new one,
to make sure they are the same type. Smear
some engine oil on the rubber sealing ring of
the new filter, and screw it into place (see
illustration). Overtightening the filter will
damage the sealing ring, so don’t use a filter
spanner. Most filter manufacturers
recommend tightening the filter by hand only.
Normally, they should be tightened three-
quarters of a turn after the sealing ring
contacts the block, but be sure to follow the
directions on the filter or container.
6.1 These tools are required when
changing the engine oil and filter
1 Drain pan- It should be fairly shallow in
depth, but wide enough to prevent spills
2 Rubber gloves- When removing the drain
plug and filter, you will get oil on your
hands (the gloves will prevent burns)
3 Socket bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug
is tight, and a long bar is needed to loosen
it. The correct-size ring spanner may work
just as well
4 Socket- To be used with the bar or a
ratchet (must be the correct size to fit the
drain plug - six-point preferred)
5 Filter spanner - This is a metal band-type
spanner, which requires clearance around
the filter to be effective. This tool is not
required on all engines.
6 Filter spanner- This type fits on the bottom
of the filter and can be turned with a ratchet
or breaker bar (different-size spanners are
available for different types of filters) This
tool is not required on all engines.
6.7 Using a ring spanner to remove the oil
drain plug
6.16 Lubricate the oil filter sealing ring
with clean engine oil before refitting the
filter on the engine
Frequent oil changes are the
most important preventive
maintenance procedures that
can be done by the home
mechanic. As engine oil ages, it
becomes diluted and contaminated,
which leads to premature engine wear.

13 Battery check, maintenance
and charging
2
Check and maintenance
Warning: Certain precautions
must be followed when checking
and servicing the battery.
Hydrogen gas, which is highly
flammable, is always present in the battery
cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other
flames and sparks away from it. The
electrolyte inside the battery is actually
dilute sulphuric acid, which will cause
injury if splashed on your skin or in youreyes. It will also ruin clothes and painted
surfaces. When disconnecting the battery
cables, always detach the negative cable
first, and connect it last!
1Battery maintenance is an important
procedure, which will help ensure that you are
not stranded because of a dead battery.
Several tools are required for this procedure
(see illustration).
2Before servicing the battery, always switch
off the engine and all accessories, and
disconnect the cable from the negative
terminal of the battery.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
3A low-maintenance battery is standard
equipment. The cell caps can be removed and
distilled water can be added, if necessary.
Later models may be fitted with a
“maintenance-free” battery, which is sealed.
4Remove the caps and check the electrolyte
level in each of the battery cells. It must be
above the plates. There’s usually a split-ring
indicator in each cell to indicate the correct
level. If the level is low, add distilled water
only, then refit the cell caps.Caution: Overfilling the cells may
cause electrolyte to spill over
during periods of heavy charging,
causing corrosion and damage to
nearby components.
5If the positive terminal and cable clamp on
your vehicle’s battery is equipped with a
rubber protector, make sure that it’s not torn
or damaged. It should completely cover the
terminal.
6The external condition of the battery should
be checked periodically. Look for damage
such as a cracked case.
7Check the tightness of the battery cable
clamps to ensure good electrical connections.
Check the entire length of each cable, looking
for cracked or abraded insulation and frayed
conductors.
8If corrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits)
is evident, remove the cables from the
terminals, clean them with a battery brush,
and reconnect them (see illustrations).
Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by fitting
specially treated washers available at car
accessory shops, or by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly or suitable grease to the
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first
1•16
13.8d When cleaning the cable clamps, all
corrosion must be removed (the inside of
the clamp is tapered to match the taper on
the post, so don’t remove too much
material)
13.8c Regardless of the type of tool used
on the battery posts, a clean, shiny surface
should be the result
13.1 Tools and materials required for
battery maintenance
1 Face shield/safety goggles- When
removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic
particles can easily fly up into your eyes
2 Baking soda - A solution of baking soda and
water can be used to neutralise corrosion
3 Petroleum jelly- A layer of this on the
battery posts will help prevent corrosion
4 Battery post/cable cleaner- This wire-
brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of
corrosion from the battery posts and cable
clamps
5 Treated felt washers- Placing one of
these on each post, directly under the
cable clamps, will help prevent corrosion
6 Puller- Sometimes the cable clamps are
very difficult to pull off the posts, even after
the nut/bolt has been completely loosened.
This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off
the post without damage
7 Battery post/cable cleaner - Here is
another cleaning tool which is a slightly
different version of No 4 above, but it does
the same thing
8 Rubber gloves- Another safety item to
consider when servicing the battery;
remember that’s acid inside the battery!
13.8b Removing a cable from the battery
post with a spanner - sometimes special
battery pliers are required for this
procedure, if corrosion has caused
deterioration of the nut (always remove the
earth cable first, and connect it last!)
13.8a Battery terminal corrosion usually
appears as light, fluffy powder
Every 12 000 miles

terminals and cable clamps after they are
assembled.
9Make sure that the battery carrier is in good
condition, and that the hold-down clamp bolt
is tight. If the battery is removed (see Chap-
ter 5 for the removal and refitting procedure),
make sure that no parts remain in the bottom
of the carrier when it’s refitted. When refitting
the hold-down clamp, don’t overtighten the
bolt.
10Corrosion on the carrier, battery case and
surrounding areas can be removed with a
solution of water and baking soda. Apply the
mixture with a small brush, let it work, then
rinse it off with plenty of clean water.
11Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be coated with a zinc-
based primer, then painted.
12Additional information on the battery and
jump starting can be found in Chapter 5 and
the front of this manual.
Charging
Note: The manufacturer recommends the
battery be removed from the vehicle for
charging, because the gas which escapes
during this procedure can damage the paint or
interior, depending on the location of the
battery. Fast charging with the battery cables
connected can result in damage to the
electrical system.
13Remove all of the cell caps (if applicable),
and cover the holes with a clean cloth to
prevent spattering electrolyte. Disconnect thebattery negative cable, and connect the
battery charger leads to the battery posts
(positive to positive, negative to negative),
then plug in the charger. Make sure it is set at
12 volts if it has a selector switch.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Note: If,
after connecting the battery, the wrong
language appears on the instrument panel
display, refer to page 0-7 for the language
resetting procedure.
14If you’re using a charger with a rate higher
than two amps, check the battery regularly
during charging to make sure it doesn’t
overheat. If you’re using a trickle charger, you
can safely let the battery charge overnight
after you’ve checked it regularly for the first
couple of hours. Where a maintenance-free
battery is fitted, special precautions may be
necessary when charging it (for example, the
charge rate is normally very low). There may
be a warning label on the battery, but if not,
consult a BMW dealer or auto-electrician.
15If the battery has removable cell caps,
measure the specific gravity with a
hydrometer every hour during the last few
hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometers are
available inexpensively from car accessory
shops - follow the instructions that come with
the hydrometer. Consider the battery charged
when there’s no change in the specific gravity
reading for two hours, and the electrolyte in
the cells is gassing (bubbling) freely. The
specific gravity reading from each cell should
be very close to the others. If not, the battery
probably has a bad cell(s), and a new one
should be fitted.
16Some maintenance-free (sealed) batteries
have built-in hydrometers on the top,
indicating the state of charge by the colour
displayed in the hydrometer window.
Normally, a bright-coloured hydrometer
indicates a full charge, and a dark hydrometer
indicates the battery still needs charging.
Check the battery manufacturer’s instructions
to be sure you know what the colours mean.17If the battery is sealed and has no built-in
hydrometer, you can connect a digital
voltmeter across the battery terminals to
check the charge. A fully-charged battery
should read 12.6 volts or higher.
18Further information on the battery and
jump starting can be found in Chapter 5 and
at the front of this manual.
14 Spark plug check and
renewal
1
1Before beginning, obtain the necessary
tools, which will include a spark plug socket
and a set of feeler blades. Special spark plug
gap gauges can be obtained from certain
spark plug manufacturers (see illustration).
2The best procedure to follow when
renewing the spark plugs is to purchase the
new spark plugs beforehand, adjust them to
the proper gap, and then renew each plug one
at a time. When buying the new spark plugs, it
is important to obtain the correct plugs for
your specific engine. This information can be
found in the Specifications section in the front
of this Chapter.
3With the new spark plugs at hand, allow the
engine to cool completely before attempting
plug removal. During this time, each of the
new spark plugs can be inspected for defects
and the gaps can be checked.
4The gap is checked by inserting the proper
thickness gauge between the electrodes at the
tip of the plug (see illustration). The gap
between the electrodes should be the same as
that given in the Specifications. The wire
should just touch each of the electrodes. If the
gap is incorrect, use the notched adjuster to
bend the curved side of the electrode slightly
until the proper gap is achieved (see
illustration). Note: When adjusting the gap of a
new plug, bend only the base of the earth
electrode, do not touch the tip. If the earth
electrode is not exactly over the centre
electrode, use the notched adjuster to align the
two. Check for cracks in the porcelain insulator,
indicating the spark plug should not be used.
1•17
14.4b To change the gap, bend the earth
electrode only, as indicated by the arrows,
and be very careful not to crack or chip the
porcelain insulator surrounding the centre
electrode14.4a Spark plug manufacturers
recommend using a wire-type gauge when
checking the gap - if the wire does not
slide between the electrodes with a slight
drag, adjustment is required
14.1 Tools required for changing spark
plugs
1 Spark plug socket- This will have special
padding inside to protect the spark plug’s
porcelain insulator
2 Torque wrench - Although not mandatory,
using this tool is the best way to ensure the
plugs are tightened properly
3 Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit the
spark plug socket
4 Extension - Depending on model and
accessories, you may need special
extensions and universal joints to reach one
or more of the plugs
5 Spark plug gap gauge- This gauge for
checking the gap comes in a variety of
styles. Make sure the gap for your engine is
included. Feeler blades may be used
instead
1
Every 12 000 miles