Air BMW 3 SERIES 1986 E30 Owners Manual

Fuel injection system - fault finding
L-Jetronic fuel injection system
Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when cold)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector or thermotime switch faulty Test cold start injector and thermotime switch. Renew faulty components (see Section 19)
Fuel pump inoperative Check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay (see Sections 3 and 4)
Airflow meter flap (door) binding or stuck
in open position Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test system pressure (see Section 3). Test fuel pressure regulator (Section 18)
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts, and oil filler and dipstick seals
Fuel injectors clogged or not operating Check fuel injectors (see Section 20) and wiring harness
Coolant temperature sensor faulty or
wiring problem Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Throttle position sensor (TPS) incorrectly adjusted Check TPS adjustment (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Incorrect ignition timing Check ignition timing (see Chapter 5). Check vacuum advance system
Dirt or other contaminants in fuel Check the fuel and drain the tank if necessary
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when warm)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector leaking or operating continuously Test cold start injector and thermotime switch (see Section 19)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel pump(s). Renew if necessary (see Section 3)
Insufficient residual fuel pressure Test residual fuel pressure. Renew fuel pump or fuel accumulator as necessary
(see Section 18)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks. Correct leaks as required (see Chapter 4)
Coolant temperature sensor faulty or
wiring problem Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Vapour lock (warm weather) Check fuel pressure (see Section 3)
EVAP system faulty (where applicable) Check EVAP system (see Chapter 6, Section 6)
Incorrect ignition timing Check ignition timing (see Chapter 5). Check vacuum advance system
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Idle speed control system faulty Test the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
Engine misses and hesitates under load
Probable cause Corrective action
Fuel injector clogged or faulty Test fuel injectors. Check for clogged injector lines. Renew faulty injectors (see Section 20)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel system pressure (see Section 3). Test fuel pressure regulator (see Section 18)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks (see Chapter 4)
Engine maintenance Tune-up engine (see Chapter 1). Check the distributor cap, rotor, HT leads and spark
plugs, and renew any faulty components
Airflow meter flap (door) binding, or
stuck in open position Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts and oil filler and dipstick seals
Engine has erratic idle speed
Probable cause Corrective action
Idle air stabiliser valve faulty Check the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
No power to the idle air stabiliser valve Check the idle air stabiliser relay and wiring circuit (see Chapter 12)
Vacuum advance system faulty Check vacuum advance system and electronic vacuum advance relay
Idle speed control unit faulty Have the idle speed control unit checked by a dealer
Motronic fuel injection system
Note:With this system, when faults occur, the ECU stores a fault code in its memory. These codes can only be read by a BMW dealer, as
specialised equipment is required. It may save time to have at least the initial fault diagnosis carried out by a dealer.
Lack of power
Probable cause Corrective action
Coolant temperature sensor faulty, Test coolant temperature sensor and wiring. Repair wiring or renew sensor if
or wire to sensor broken faulty (see Chapter 6)
Fuel pressure incorrect Check fuel pressure from main pump and transfer pump, as applicable (see Section 3)
Throttle plate not opening fully Check accelerator cable adjustment to make sure throttle is opening fully. Adjust cable if
necessary (see Section 9)
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•21
4

Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when cold)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector or thermotime switch
faulty (early Motronic system only) Test cold start injector and thermotime switch. Renew faulty components (see Section 19)
Fuel pump not running Check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay (see Sections 2 and 3)
Airflow meter flap (door) binding, or
stuck in open position Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test system pressure (see Section 3)
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts and oil filler and dipstick seals
Fuel injectors clogged or not operating Check fuel injectors (see Section 20) and wiring harness
Coolant temperature sensor faulty or Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
wiring problem
TPS (throttle position sensor) incorrectly adjusted Check TPS adjustment (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Dirt or other contaminants in fuel Check the fuel and drain the tank if necessary
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Crankshaft position signal missing Faulty position sensor or flywheel, or reference pin missing (see Chapter 5)
Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when warm)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector leaking or operating
continuously (early Motronic system only) Test cold start injector and thermotime switch (see Section 19)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel pressure (see Section 3)
Insufficient residual fuel pressure Test fuel system hold pressure (see Section 3)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks. Correct leaks as necessary
Coolant temperature sensor faulty
or wiring problem Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Vapour lock (in warm weather) Check fuel pressure (see Section 3)
EVAP system faulty Check EVAP system (see Chapter 6, Section 6)
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Idle speed control system faulty Test the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
Oxygen sensor faulty (where applicable) Check the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Engine misses and hesitates under load
Probable cause Corrective action
Fuel injector clogged Test fuel injectors. Check for clogged injector lines. Renew faulty injectors (see Section 20)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel system pressure (see Section 3). Test fuel pressure regulator (see Section 18)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks (see Chapter 4)
Engine maintenance Tune-up engine (see Chapter 1). Check the distributor cap, rotor, HT leads and spark
plugs, and renew any faulty components
Airflow meter flap (door) binding, or Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
stuck in open position
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts, and oil filler and dipstick seals
Throttle position sensor (TPS) incorrectly adjusted Check TPS adjustment (see Chapter 6)
Engine idles too fast
Probable cause Corrective action
Accelerator pedal, cable or throttle valve binding Check for worn or broken components, kinked cable, or other damage. Renew faulty
components
Air leaking past throttle valve Inspect throttle valve, and adjust or renew as required
Engine has erratic idle speed
Probable cause Corrective action
Idle air stabiliser valve faulty Check the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
No power to the idle air stabiliser valve Check the idle air stabiliser relay and wiring circuit (see Chapter 12)
Idle speed control unit faulty Have the idle speed control unit checked by a dealer
Poor fuel economy
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector leaking
(early Motronic system only) Test and, if necessary, renew cold start injector (see Section 19)
Oxygen sensor faulty (where applicable) Test the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4))
Sticking handbrake/binding brakes Check the handbrake/braking system (see Chapter 9)
Tyre pressures low Check tyre pressures (Chapter 1)
4•22 Fuel and exhaust systems

5GeneralApplication
Models with carburettor or L-Jetronic fuel injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Transistorised Coil Ignition (TCI) system
Models with Motronic fuel injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition functions controlled by Motronic system
Ignition coil
Primary resistance
TCI system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.82 ohms
Motronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 ohms
Secondary resistance
TCI system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8250 ohms
Motronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5000 to 6000 ohms
Distributor(models with TCI system)
Air gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm to 0.7 mm
Pick-up coil/impulse generator resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 to 1200 ohms
Ignition timing(models with TCI system)
(Vacuum line disconnected at distributor)
316 with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25º BTDC at 2500 rpm (2900 rpm from 9/83)
318i with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30º BTDC at 3000 rpm
320i with M20/B20 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23º BTDC at 5000 ±50 rpm
518 with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25º BTDC at 2900 ±50 rpm
518i with M10/B18 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30º BTDC at 3000 ±50 rpm
525i with M30/B25 engine (except distributor
237 302 033) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22º BTDC at 1800 ±50 rpm
525i with M30/B25 engine (distributor 237 302 033) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22º BTDC at 2150 ±50 rpm
528i with M30/B28 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22º BTDC at 2150 ±50 rpm
Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems
Air gap (TCI system) – check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Alternator – removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Alternator brushes – check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Battery – emergency jump starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Battery – removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Battery cables – check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Battery check and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Charging system – check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Charging system – general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . 13
Distributor – removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Ignition coil – check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Ignition sensors (Motronic system) – check and renewal . . . . . . . . . 12
Ignition system – check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Ignition system – general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . 5
Ignition timing (TCI system) – check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Impulse generator and ignition control unit – check and
renewal (TCI system) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Spark plug HT lead check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Starter motor – in-vehicle check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Starter motor – removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Starter solenoid – removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Starting system – general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . 18
Voltage regulator – renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
5•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents

5 Ignition system- general
information and precautions
The ignition system includes the ignition
switch, the battery, the distributor, the primary
(low-voltage/low-tension or LT) and
secondary (high-voltage/high-tension or HT)
wiring circuits, the spark plugs and the spark
plug leads. Models fitted with a carburettor or
L-Jetronic fuel injection are equipped with a
Transistorised Coil Ignition (TCI) system.
Models fitted with the Motronic fuel injection
system have the ignition system incorporated
within the Motronic system (Digital Motor
Electronics or DME).
Transistorised Coil Ignition (TCI)
system
This system is has four major components;
the impulse generator, the ignition control
unit, the coil, and the spark plugs. The
impulse generator provides a timing signal for
the ignition system. Equivalent to cam-
actuated breaker points in a standard
distributor, the impulse generator creates an
A/C voltage signal every time the trigger
wheel tabs pass the impulse generator tabs.
When the ignition control unit (capacitive
discharge unit) receives the voltage signal, it
triggers a spark discharge from the coil by
interrupting the primary coil circuit. The
ignition dwell (coil charging time) is adjusted
by the ignition control unit for the most
intense spark. Note: The air gap (distance
between the impulse generator and trigger
wheel tabs) can be adjusted (see Section 11).
Ignition timing is mechanically adjusted
(see Section 7). A centrifugal advance unit
that consists of spring-loaded rotating
weights advances ignition timing as engine
speed increases. The vacuum advance
adjusts ignition timing to compensate for
changes in engine load.
Motronic ignition system
This system, also known as Digital Motor
Electronics (DME), incorporates all ignition
and fuel injection functions into one central
control unit or ECU (computer). The ignition
timing is based on inputs the ECU receives for
engine load, engine speed, coolant
temperature and intake air temperature. The
only function the distributor performs is the
distribution of the high voltage signal to the
individual spark plugs. The distributor is
attached directly to the cylinder head. There is
no mechanical spark advance system used on
these systems.
Ignition timing is electronically-controlled,
and is not adjustable on Motronic systems.
During starting, a crankshaft position sensor
(reference sensor) relays the crankshaft
position to the ECU, and an initial baseline
ignition point is determined. Once the engineis running, the ignition timing is continually
changing, based on the various input signals
to the ECU. Engine speed is signalled by a
speed sensor. Early Motronic systems have
the position reference sensor and the speed
sensor mounted on the bellhousing over the
flywheel on the left-hand side. Later Motronic
systems have a single sensor (pulse sensor)
mounted over the crankshaft pulley. This
sensor functions as a speed sensor as well as
a position reference sensor. Refer to Sec-
tion 12 for checking and renewing the ignition
sensors. Note: Some models are equipped
with a TDC sensor mounted on the front of the
engine. This sensor is strictly for the BMW
service test unit, and it is not part of the
Motronic ignition system.
Precautions
Certain precautions must be observed
when working on a transistorised ignition
system.
a) Do not disconnect the battery cables
when the engine is running
b) Make sure the ignition control unit (TCI
ignition system) is always well earthed
(see Section 10).
c) Keep water away from the distributor and
HT leads.
d) If a tachometer is to be connected to the
engine, always connect the tachometer
positive (+) lead to the ignition coil
negative terminal (-) and never to the
distributor.
e) Do not allow the coil terminals to be
earthed, as the impulse generator or coil
could be damaged.
f) Do not leave the ignition switch on for
more than ten minutes with the engine
off, or if the engine will not start.
6 Ignition system- check
2
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the ignition
system, extreme care should be
taken whenever an operation is
performed involving ignition components.
This not only includes the impulse
generator (electronic ignition), coil,
distributor and spark plug HT leads, but
related components such as spark plug
connectors, tachometer and other test
equipment.
1If the engine turns over but will not start,
disconnect the spark plug HT lead from any
spark plug, and attach it to a calibrated spark
tester (available at most car accessory
shops).
Note:There are two different types of spark
testers. Be sure to specify electronic
(breakerless) ignition. Connect the clip on thetester to an earth point such as a metal
bracket (see illustration).
2If you are unable to obtain a calibrated
spark tester, remove the spark plug HT lead
from one of the spark plugs. Using an
insulated tool, hold the lead about a quarter-
inch from the engine block - make sure the
gap is not more than a quarter-inch, or
damage may be caused to the electronic
components.
3Crank the engine, and observe the tip of the
tester or spark plug HT lead to see if a spark
occurs. If bright-blue, well-defined sparks
occur, sufficient voltage is reaching the plugs
to fire the engine. However, the plugs
themselves may be fouled, so remove and
check them as described in Chapter 1.
4If there’s no spark, check another HT lead
in the same manner. A few sparks followed by
no spark is the same condition as no spark at
all.
5If no spark occurs, remove the distributor
cap, and check the cap and rotor as
described in Chapter 1. If moisture is present,
use a water-dispersant aerosol (or something
similar) to dry out the cap and rotor, then refit
the cap and repeat the spark test.
6If there’s still no spark, disconnect the coil
HT lead from the distributor cap, and
test this lead as described for the spark plug
leads.
7If no spark occurs, check the primary wire
connections at the coil to make sure they’re
clean and tight. Make any necessary repairs,
then repeat the check.
8If sparks do occur from the coil HT lead, the
distributor cap, rotor, plug HT lead(s) or spark
plug(s) may be defective. If there’s still no
spark, the coil-to-cap HT lead may be
defective. If a substitute lead doesn’t make
any difference, check the ignition coil (see
Section 9). Note:Refer to Sections 10 and 11
for more test procedures on the distributors
fitted with the TCI ignition system.
Engine electrical systems 5•3
6.1 To use a spark tester, simply
disconnect a spark plug HT lead, clip the
tester to a convenient earth (like a valve
cover bolt or nut) and operate the starter –
if there is enough power to fire the plug,
sparks will be visible between the
electrode tip and the tester body
5

7 Ignition timing (TCI system)-
check and adjustment
4
Warning: Keep hands, equipment
and wires well clear of the
viscous cooling fan during
adjustment of the ignition timing.
Note:This Section describes the procedure
for checking and adjusting the ignition timing
on engines fitted with the TCI system. On
engines fitted with the Motronic engine
management system, the ignition timing is
controlled by the electronic control unit, and
no adjustment is possible. The timing can be
checked using the following procedure, but no
ignition timing values were available at the
time of writing. If the timing is thought to be
incorrect, refer to a BMW dealer.
1Some special tools are required for this
procedure (see illustration). The engine must
be at normal operating temperature, and the
air conditioning (where fitted) must be
switched off. Make sure the idle speed is
correct.
2Apply the handbrake, and chock the wheels
to prevent movement of the vehicle. The
transmission must be in neutral (manual) or
Park (automatic).
3The timing marks are located on the engine
flywheel (viewed through the timing checkhole in the bellhousing) and/or on the vibration
damper on the front of the engine.
4Where applicable, disconnect the vacuum
hose from the distributor vacuum advance
unit.
5Connect a tachometer and timing light
according to the equipment manufacturer’s
instructions (an inductive pick-up timing light
is preferred). Generally, the power leads for
the timing light are attached to the battery
terminals, and the pick-up lead is attached to
the No 1 spark plug HT lead. The No 1 spark
plug is the one at the front of the engine.
Caution: If an inductive pick-up
timing light isn’t available, don’t
puncture the spark plug HT lead
to attach the timing light pick-up
lead. Instead, use an adapter between the
spark plug and HT lead. If the insulation on
the HT lead is damaged, the secondary
voltage will jump to earth at the damaged
point, and the engine will misfire.
Note:On some models, a TDC transmitter is
fitted for checking the ignition system.
However, a special BMW tester must be
connected to the diagnostic socket to use it,
so unless the special tester is available, a
conventional timing light should be used. The
ignition timing mark may be on the vibration
damper, but if not, normally the TDC mark will
be. If the timing light is of the adjustable delay
type, then the ignition timing may be
determined by zeroing the adjustment, then
turning the adjustment until the TDC marks are
aligned, and then reading off the amount of
advance from the timing light. If a standard
timing light is being used, make a mark on the
vibration damper in accordance with the
specified advance, using the following formula
to calculate the distance from the TDC mark
to the timing mark:
Distance = 2Pr x advance
360
where P = 3.142
r = radius of vibration damper
advance = specified advance
BTDC in degrees
6With the ignition off, loosen the distributor
clamp nut just enough to allow the distributor
to pivot without any slipping.7Make sure the timing light wires are routed
away from the drivebelts and fan, then start
the engine.
8Raise the engine rpm to the specified
speed, and then point the flashing timing light
at the timing marks - be very careful of moving
engine components.
9The mark on the flywheel or vibration
damper will appear stationary. If it’s aligned
with the specified point on the bellhousing or
engine front cover, the ignition timing is
correct (see illustrations).
10If the marks aren’t aligned, adjustment is
required. Turn the distributor very slowly until
the marks are aligned, taking care not to
touch the HT leads.
11Tighten the nut on the distributor clamp,
and recheck the timing.
12Switch off the engine, and remove the
timing light and tachometer. Reconnect the
vacuum hose where applicable.
8 Distributor-
removal and refitting
4
TCI system
Removal
1After carefully marking them for position,
remove the coil HT lead and spark plug HT
leads from the distributor cap (see Chapter 1).
2Remove No 1 spark plug (the one nearest
you when you are standing in front of the
engine).
3Manually rotate the engine to Top Dead
Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke for
No 1 piston (see Chapter 2A)
4Carefully mark the vacuum hoses, if more
than one is present on your distributor.
5Disconnect the vacuum hose(s).
6Disconnect the primary circuit wires from
the distributor.
7Mark the relationship of the rotor tip to the
distributor housing (see illustration). Also
mark the relationship of the distributor
housing to the engine.
5•4 Engine electrical systems
7.1 Tools for checking and adjusting the
ignition timing
1Vacuum plugs- Vacuum hoses will, in
most cases, have to be disconnected and
plugged. Moulded plugs in various shapes
and sizes can be used for this, if wished
2Inductive pick-up timing light- Flashes a
bright, concentrated beam of light when
No 1 spark plug fires. Connect the leads
according to the instructions supplied with
the light
3Distributor spanner - On some models,
the hold-down bolt for the distributor is
difficult to reach and turn with conventional
spanners or sockets. A special spanner like
this must be used
7.9a Flywheel “OT” timing mark 7.9b Flywheel “OZ” timing mark

connect the ohmmeter to coil terminal 1 (-)
and the centre tower. On Motronic systems,
connect the ohmmeter to coil terminal 15 (+)
and the centre tower. Compare the measured
resistance with the values given in the Specifi-
cations in this Chapter.
6If the measured resistances are not close to
those specified, the coil is defective and
should be renewed. Note that the measured
resistance will vary according to the
temperature of the coil, so don’t rush to
condemn the coil if the resistance is only a
little way out.
7It is essential for proper ignition system
operation that all coil terminals and wire leads
be kept clean and dry.
8Refit the coil in its mounting, and reconnect
the wiring. Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Impulse generator and
ignition control unit- check
and renewal (TCI system)
3
1The impulse generator (located in the
distributor) and ignition control unit need to be
tested in the event there is no spark at the
spark plugs. Make sure the plug leads,
ignition coil and spark plugs are working
properly (see Sections 6 and 9). There are two
types of control units; Bosch or
Siemens/Telefunken. The two types (see
illustration)can be distinguished by their
electrical connectors. The Bosch type uses a
single, large rectangular connector at the
bottom of the unit, while the
Siemens/Telefunken control unit uses two
round electrical connectors at the front of the
unit.
Check
Voltage supply and earth to ignition
control unit
2With the ignition off, remove the harness
connectors from the ignition control unit (see
illustrations). Connect a voltmeter between
connector terminals 2 and 4 on Bosch
systems, or between terminals 6 and 3 on
Siemens/Telefunken systems.
3Turn the ignition on. There should be
battery voltage on the designated terminals. If
there is no voltage, check the wiring harness
for an open-circuit (see Chapter 12).
4Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between connector terminal 2 (Bosch) or 6
(Siemens/Telefunken) and the earth to the
vehicle body. Continuity should exist.
5Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between connector terminal 4 (Bosch) or 3
(Siemens/Telefunken) and terminal 15 of the
ignition coil. Continuity should exist.
6If the readings are incorrect, repair the
wiring harness.
Impulse generator signal
7If the ignition control unit is receiving
battery voltage, check the A/C signal voltage
coming from the impulse generator to the
control unit.
5•6 Engine electrical systems
10.2b Check for voltage at terminals 6 and
3 on the control unit electrical connector
(Siemens/Telefunken system shown)10.2a Check for voltage at terminals 2 and
4 on the control unit electrical connector
(Bosch system shown)
1 Coil HT lead
2 Ignition coil
3 Spark plug HT lead
4 Spark plug
5 Ignition control unit (Bosch)
6 Ignition control unit
(Siemens/Telefunken)
7 Wiring harness8 Distributor housing with
centrifugal advance
counterweights
9 Vacuum diaphragm
10 Circlip
11 Impulse generator
12 Trigger wheel
13 Circlip
14 Dust shield15 Ignition rotor
16 Distributor
17 Roll pin
18 Trigger wheel and impulse
generator tabs
19 Cap retaining clip
20 Impulse generator
connector
10.1 Schematic of the ignition components used on engines with the TCI system

8Use a digital voltmeter for the following
tests:
a) On Bosch systems, connect the positive
probe to connector terminal 5, and the
negative probe to terminal 6 (see
illustration).
b) On Siemens/Telefunken systems, connect
the positive probe to terminal (+) of the
smaller connector, and the negative
probe to terminal (-).
9Have an assistant crank the engine over,
and check that there is 1 to 2 volts A/C
present. If there is no voltage, check the
wiring harness between the impulse generator
(in the distributor) and the control unit. If the
harness is OK, check the impulse generator
resistance.
Warning: Do not crank the
engine over for an excessive
length of time. If necessary,
disconnect the cold start injector
electrical connector (see Chapter 4) to
stop the flow of fuel into the engine.
10To check the resistance in the impulse
generator, proceed as described for your
system below:
a) On Bosch units, measure the resistance
between connector terminals 5 and 6
(see illustration 10.8). The reading
should be 1000 to 1200 ohms.
b) On Siemens/Telefunken units, measure
the resistance between the terminals of
the smaller connector. The reading should
be 1000 to 1200 ohms.
11If the resistance readings are incorrect,
renew the impulse generator. If the resistance
readings for the impulse generator are correct
and the control unit voltages (supply voltage
[paragraphs 1 to 6] and signal voltage
[paragraphs 7 to 9]) are incorrect, renew the
control unit.
Renewal
Ignition control unit
12Make sure the ignition is switched off.
13Disconnect the electrical connector(s)
from the control unit.
14Remove the mounting screws from the
control unit, and lift it from the engine
compartment.15Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:
On Bosch control units, a special dielectric
grease is used between the heat sink and the
back of the control unit. In the event the two
are separated (renewal or testing) the old
grease must be removed, and the heat sink
cleaned off using 180-grit sandpaper. Apply
Curil K2 (Bosch part number 81 22 9 243). A
silicon dielectric compound can be used as a
substitute. This treatment is very important for
the long life of these expensive ignition parts.
Impulse generator
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
16Disconnect the battery negative cable.
17Remove the distributor from the engine
(see Section 8).
18Using a pair of circlip pliers, remove the
circlip retaining the trigger wheel (see
illustration).
19Use two flat-bladed screwdrivers
positioned at opposite sides of the trigger
wheel, and carefully prise it up (see
illustration). Note: Push the screwdrivers in
as far as possible without bending the trigger
wheel. Prise only on the strongest, centre
portion of the trigger wheel. In the event the
trigger wheel is bent, it must be replaced with
a new one. Note:Be sure not to lose the roll
pin when lifting out the trigger wheel.
20Remove the mounting screws from the
impulse generator electrical connector, the
vacuum diaphragm and the baseplate.
21Remove the two screws from the vacuum
advance unit, and separate it from the
distributor by moving the assembly down
while unhooking it from the baseplate pin.
22Use circlip pliers to remove the circlip that
retains the impulse generator and the
baseplate assembly.
23Carefully remove the impulse generator
and the baseplate assembly as a single unit.24Remove the three screws, and separate
the baseplate assembly from the impulse
generator.
25Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:
Be sure to position the insulating ring between
the generator coil and the baseplate. It must
be centred before tightening the mounting
screws. Also, it will be necessary to
check/adjust the air gap if the trigger wheel
has been removed, or tampered with to the
point that the clearance is incorrect (see
Section 11).
11 Air gap (TCI system)-
check and adjustment
2
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Insert a brass feeler gauge between the
trigger wheel tab and the impulse generator
(see illustration). Slide the feeler gauge up
Engine electrical systems 5•7
10.19 Carefully prise the trigger wheel off
the distributor shaft10.18 Use circlip pliers and remove the
circlip from the distributor shaft10.8 Back-probe the ignition control unit
connector, and check for signal voltage on
terminals 5 and 6 (Bosch system shown). It
is very helpful to use angled probes
11.2 Use a brass feeler gauge to check
the air gap (be sure the gauge rubs lightly
against the trigger wheel as well as the
locating pin for the correct adjustment)
5

Withdraw the sensor from its bracket and
remove it.
11When fitting the new sensor, use a brass
feeler gauge to position the tip of the sensor
the correct distance from the pulse wheel
(see illustration).
12Tighten the mounting bolt, but be careful
not to overtighten it.
13 Charging system- general
information and precautions
There are two different types of alternator
fitted on these models; Bosch and Motorola.
Also, there are three different amperage
ratings available; 65A, 80A or 90A. A stamped
serial number on the rear of the alternator will
identify the type and amperage rating.
Perform the charging system checks (see
Section 14) to diagnose any problems with the
alternator.
The voltage regulator and the alternator
brushes are mounted as a single assembly.
On Bosch alternators, this unit can be
removed from the alternator (see Section 16)
and the components serviced individually.
The alternator on all models is mounted on
the left front of the engine, and utilises a V-
belt and pulley drive system. Drivebelt tension
and battery servicing are the two primary
maintenance requirements for these systems.
See Chapter 1 for the procedures regarding
engine drivebelt checking and battery
servicing.
The ignition/no-charge warning light should
come on when the ignition key is turned to
Start, then go off immediately the engine
starts. If it remains on, there is a malfunction
in the charging system (see Section 14). Some
vehicles are also equipped with a voltmeter. If
the voltmeter indicates abnormally high or low
voltage, check the charging system (see
Section 14). Note:On models up to 1986, a
blown ignition/no-charge warning light will
prevent the alternator from charging. After
1987, a resistor is wired in parallel with the
warning light in order to allow current tobypass the light in the event of a broken circuit
(blown warning light).
Precautions
Be very careful when making electrical
circuit connections to the alternator, and note
the following:
a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator
from the battery, be sure to note the
polarity.
b) Before using arc-welding equipment to
repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect
the wires from the battery terminals and
from the alternator.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
c) Never start the engine with a battery
charger connected. Always disconnect
both battery cables before using a battery
charger.
d) Never disconnect cables from the battery
or from the alternator while the engine is
running.
e) The alternator is turned by an engine
drivebelt. Serious injury could result if
your hands, hair or clothes become
entangled in the belt with the engine
running.
f) Because the alternator is connected
directly to the battery, take care not to
short out the main terminal to earth.
g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator,
and secure it with rubber bands, before
steam-cleaning the engine.
14 Charging system- check
3
1If a malfunction occurs in the charging
circuit, don’t automatically assume that the
alternator is causing the problem. First check
the following items:
a) Check the drivebelt tension and condition
(see Chapter 1). Renew the drivebelt if it’s
worn or deteriorated.
b) Make sure the alternator mounting and
adjustment bolts are tight.
c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and
the connectors at the alternator and
voltage regulator. They must be in good
condition and tight.
d) Check the fuses.
e) Start the engine and check the alternator
for abnormal noises (a shrieking or
squealing sound indicates a worn bearing,
but could also be due to a slipping
drivebelt - see a) above).f) Check the specific gravity of the battery
electrolyte. If it’s low, charge the battery
(doesn’t apply to maintenance-free
batteries).
g) Make sure the battery is fully-charged
(one bad cell in a battery can cause
overcharging by the alternator).
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative
first, then positive). Inspect the battery
posts and the cable clamps for corrosion.
Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see
Chapter 1).
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
2With the ignition off, connect a 12 volt test
light between the battery negative post and
the disconnected negative cable clamp. If the
test light does not come on, refit the cable
and proceed to paragraph 4. If the test light
comes on, there is a short (drain) in the
electrical system of the vehicle. The short
must be repaired before the charging system
can be checked. Note: Accessories which are
always on (such as the clock or the radio
station memory) must be disconnected before
performing this check.
3Disconnect the alternator wiring harness. If
the test light now goes out, the alternator is
faulty. If the light stays on, remove each fuse
in turn until the light goes out (this will tell you
which component is shorting out).
4Using a voltmeter, check the battery
voltage with the engine off. It should be
approximately 12 volts.
5Start the engine and check the battery
voltage again. It should now be approximately
14 to 15 volts.
6Turn on the headlights. The voltage should
drop, and then come back up, if the charging
system is working properly.
7If the voltage reading is more than the
specified charging voltage, renew the voltage
regulator (refer to Section 16). If the voltage is
less, the alternator diode(s), stator or rotor
may be faulty, or the voltage regulator may be
malfunctioning.
8If there is no short-circuit causing battery
drain but the battery is constantly
discharging, then either the battery itself is
defective, the alternator drivebelt is loose (see
Chapter 1), the alternator brushes are worn,
dirty or disconnected (see Section 17), the
voltage regulator is malfunctioning (see
Section 16) or the diodes, stator coil or rotor
coil are defective. Repairing or renewing the
diodes, stator coil or rotor coil is beyond the
scope of the home mechanic. Either renew
Engine electrical systems 5•9
12.11 The sensor tip should be set at 1.0 ±
0.3 mm from the pulse wheel
5

the alternator complete, or take it to an
automotive electrician, who may be able to
overhaul it. Note:On models up to 1986, a
blown ignition/no-charge warning light bulb
will prevent the alternator from charging. After
1987, a resistor is wired in parallel with the
warning light, in order to allow current to
bypass the light in the event of a broken circuit
(blown warning light).
15 Alternator-
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Detach the battery negative cable.2Detach the electrical connectors from the
alternator, noting their locations for refitting
(see illustration). Note: On some models, it
may be necessary to remove the air cleaner
assembly and airflow meter to gain access to
the alternator.
3Loosen the alternator adjustment and pivot
bolts, and slip off the drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
4Remove the adjustment and pivot bolts,
and separate the alternator from the engine.
Refitting
5If you are renewing the alternator, take the
old one with you when purchasing a new or
reconditioned unit. Make sure the new unit
looks identical to the old alternator. Look at
the terminals - they should be the same in
number, size and location as the terminals on
the old alternator. Finally, look at the identifi-
cation numbers - they will be stamped into the
housing, or printed on a tag attached to the
housing. Make sure the numbers are the same
on both alternators.
6Many new alternators do not come with a
pulley fitted, so you may have to transfer the
pulley from the old unit to the new one.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
8After the alternator is fitted, adjust the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1).
9Check the charging voltage to verify
proper operation of the alternator (see Sec-
tion 14).
16 Voltage regulator- renewal
1
1The voltage regulator controls the charging
system voltage by limiting the alternator
output. The regulator is a sealed unit, and isn’t
adjustable.
2If the voltmeter indicates that the alternator
is not charging (or if the ignition/no-charge
warning light comes on) and the alternator,
battery, drivebelt tension and electrical
connections seem to be fine, have theregulator checked by a dealer service
department or electrical specialist.
3Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Bosch alternator
4The voltage regulator is mounted externally
on the alternator housing. To renew the
regulator, remove the mounting screws (see
illustration)and lift it off the alternator (see
illustration). Note: Some Bosch alternators
have an integral voltage regulator which is part
of the brush assembly.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:
Before refitting the regulator, check the
condition of the slip rings(see illustration).
Use a torch and check for any scoring or deep
wear grooves. Renew the alternator if
necessary.
Motorola alternator
6Remove the alternator from the engine
compartment (see Section 15).
7Remove the rear cover and diode carrier,
remove the voltage regulator mounting
screws (see illustration)and lift the regulator
off the alternator body.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal.
17 Alternator brushes-
check and renewal
3
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
5•10 Engine electrical systems
16.5 Use a torch to check the slip rings for
scoring or deep grooves16.4b The regulator can be withdrawn
easily on Bosch alternators. This type of
regulator is integral with the brush
assembly16.4a Remove the nuts and lift off the
small terminal protector from the
alternator cover, then remove the nuts and
the cover
15.2 Depending on how many accessories
the vehicle has, sometimes it’s easier to
remove the alternator from the brackets
first, and then turn it sideways to gain
access to the connections (arrowed) on
the rear of the alternator body

Refer to the information on page 0-7 at the
front of this manual before detaching the
cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Bosch alternator
2Remove the voltage regulator from the back
of the alternator (see Section 16).
3Measure the length of the brushes (see
illustration). They should not be less than
6.0 mm. If any are worn past this point, renew
them all as a set. 4Also check for excessively worn slip rings
(see illustration 16.5).
5The brushes are retained either by set
screws or by solder. If you are not skilled at
soldering, it may be best to have an auto
electrician fit the new brushes. Note: Be
careful not to apply heat to the solder joint for
more than 5 seconds. If necessary, use a heat
sink to capture the excess heat. This can be
accomplished by clamping a pair of needle-
nose pliers next to the solder joint.
6On the screw type, hold the assembly in
place and refit the screws. Tighten them
evenly, a little at a time, so the holder isn’t
distorted.
7Refit the regulator assembly to the
alternator.8Reconnect the battery negative cable.
Motorola alternator
9Remove the alternator.
10The brushes are mounted under the
regulator on the rear of the alternator (see
illustration 16.7).
11Remove the mounting screws and
insulating washers, and separate the voltage
regulator and brush holder from the brush end
housing.
12Measure the length of the brushes (see
illustration 17.3). If any brush is less then
6.0 mm long, renew them all as a set.
13Make sure the brushes move smoothly in
the holder.
14Refit the brush holder/regulator. Tighten
the screws securely. Make sure the brushes
aren’t earthed.
15Refitting is the reverse of removal.
18 Starting system- general
information and precautions
The sole function of the starting system is
to turn over the engine quickly enough to
allow it to start.
The starting system consists of the battery,
the starter motor, the starter solenoid, the
ignition switch, and the wires connecting
them. The solenoid is mounted directly on the
starter motor. The starter/solenoid motor
assembly is fitted on the lower part of the
engine, next to the transmission bellhousing.
When the ignition key is turned to the Start
position, the starter solenoid is actuated
through the starter control circuit. The starter
solenoid then connects the battery to the
starter, and moves the starter pinion into
mesh with the flywheel ring gear. The battery
supplies the electrical energy to the starter
motor, which does the actual work of cranking
the engine.
The starter motor on some manual
transmission vehicles can only be operated
when the clutch pedal is depressed. On a
vehicle equipped with automatic
transmission, the starter can only be operated
Engine electrical systems 5•11
17.3 Check the brush length in the normal
rest position (spring uncoiled)
5
16.7 Exploded view of the Motorola alternator