bearing clearance BMW 3 SERIES 1988 E30 User Guide

file in a vice equipped with soft jaws, slip the
ring over the file, with the ends contacting the
file face, and slowly move the ring to remove
material from the ends. When performing this
operation, file only from the outside in(see
illustration).
6Excess end gap isn’t critical unless it’s
greater than 1.0 mm. Again, double-check to
make sure you have the correct rings for your
engine.
7Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be fitted in the first cylinder and for each ring
in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep
rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
8Once the ring end gaps have been
checked/corrected, the rings can be fitted on
the pistons.
9The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually fitted first. It’s normally
composed of three separate components.
Slip the spacer/expander into the groove(see
illustration). If an anti-rotation tang is used,
make sure it’s inserted into the drilled hole in
the ring groove. Next, refit the lower side rail.
Don’t use a piston ring refitting tool on the oil
ring side rails, as they may be damaged.
Instead, place one end of the side rail into the
groove between the spacer/expander and the
ring land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a
finger around the piston while pushing the rail
into the groove(see illustration). Next, refit
the upper side rail in the same manner.
10After the three oil ring components have
been fitted, check to make sure that both the
upper and lower side rails can be turned
smoothly in the ring groove.
11The middle ring is fitted next. It’s usually
stamped with a mark which must face up,
towards the top of the piston. Note:Always
follow the instructions printed on the ring
package or box - different manufacturers may
require different approaches. Do not mix up
the top and middle rings, as they have
different cross-sections.
12Make sure the identification mark is facing
the top of the piston, then slip the ring into the
middle groove on the piston (see illus-
tration 18.2). Don’t expand the ring any more
than necessary to slide it over the piston. Use
a proper ring-fitting tool if available; with care,
old feeler gauges can be used to prevent the
rings dropping into empty grooves.13Refit the top ring in the same manner.
Make sure the mark is facing upwards. Be
careful not to confuse the top and middle
rings.
14Repeat the procedure for the remaining
pistons and rings.
23 Intermediate shaft- refitting
5
1Clean the intermediate shaft bearing
surfaces and the pressed-in bearing sleeves
in the cylinder block.
2Lubricate the shaft, and slide it into the
block.
3Refit the two bolts that hold the retaining
plate to the block.
4The remainder of the parts are fitted in the
reverse order of removal.
24 Crankshaft- refitting and
main bearing oil clearance
check
4
1Crankshaft refitting is the first major step in
engine reassembly. It’s assumed at this point
that the engine block and crankshaft have
been cleaned, inspected, and repaired or
reconditioned.
2Position the block upside-down.
3Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and liftout the caps. Lay them out in the proper order
to ensure correct refitting.
4If they’re still in place, remove the original
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing surfaces of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean.
Main bearing oil clearance
check
5Clean the back sides of the new main
bearing shells, and lay one in each main
bearing saddle in the block. If one of the
bearing shells from each set has a large
groove in it, make sure the grooved shell is
fitted in the block. Lay the other bearing from
each set in the corresponding main bearing
cap. Make sure the tab on the bearing shell
fits into the recess in the block or cap.
Caution: The oil holes in the
block must line up with the oil
holes in the bearing shell. Do not
hammer the bearing into place,
and don’t nick or gouge the bearing faces.
No lubrication should be used at this time.
6The flanged thrust bearing must be fitted in
the No 3 bearing cap and saddle in the M10
engine, in the No 6 bearing cap and saddle in
the M20 engine (see illustration), in the No 4
bearing cap and saddle in the M30 engine,
and in the No 4 bearing saddle only in the
M40 engine.
7Clean the faces of the bearings in the block
and the crankshaft main bearing journals with
a clean, lint-free cloth.
8Check or clean the oil holes in the
crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one
way - straight through the new bearings.
9Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean,
carefully lay it in position in the main bearings.
10Before the crankshaft can be permanently
fitted, the main bearing oil clearance must be
checked.
11Cut several pieces of the appropriate-size
Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter than
the width of the main bearings), and place one
piece on each crankshaft main bearing
journal, parallel with the crankshaft centreline
(see illustration).
12Clean the faces of the bearings in the
caps, and refit the caps in their respective
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•19
22.9b DO NOT use a piston ring refitting
tool when refitting the oil ring side rails22.9a Refitting the spacer/expander in the
oil control ring groove
24.11 Lay the Plastigage strips on the
main bearing journals, parallel to the
crankshaft centreline24.6 Refitting a thrust main bearing (note
the flanges) in the engine block bearing
saddle
2B

positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows
pointing towards the front of the engine. Don’t
disturb the Plastigage.
13Starting with the centre main bearing and
working out toward the ends, progressively
tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
On M10, M20 and M30 engines, tighten the
bolts in three stages. On the M40 engine,
tighten all the bolts initially to the Stage 1
torque, then angle-tighten them by the angle
given in the Specifications. Carry out the
angle-tightening on each bolt in one
controlled movement. Don’t rotate the
crankshaft at any time during the tightening
operation.
14Remove the bolts and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Don’t
disturb the Plastigage or rotate the
crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are
difficult to remove, tap them gently from side-
to-side with a soft-face hammer to loosen
them.
15Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage on each journal to the scale printed
on the Plastigage envelope to obtain the main
bearing oil clearance (see illustration). Check
the Specifications to make sure it’s correct.
16If the clearance is not as specified, thebearing shells may be the wrong size (which
means different ones will be required). Before
deciding that different shells are needed,
make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigage
was wider at one end than the other, the
journal may be tapered (see Section 19).
17Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the main bearing
journals and/or the bearing faces. Use your
fingernail or the edge of a credit card - don’t
nick or scratch the bearing faces.
Final crankshaft refitting
18Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine.
19Clean the bearing faces in the block, then
apply a thin, uniform layer of molybdenum
disulphide (“moly”) grease or engine oil to
each of the bearing surfaces. Be sure to coat
the thrust faces as well as the journal face of
the thrust bearing.
20Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the block.
21Clean the faces of the bearings in the
caps, then apply engine oil to them.
22Refit the caps in their respective
positions, with the arrows pointing towards
the front of the engine.
23Refit the bolts finger-tight.
24Lightly tap the ends of the crankshaft
forward and backward with a lead or brass
hammer, to line up the main bearing and
crankshaft thrust surfaces.
25Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the
specified torque, working from the centre
outwards. On M10, M20 and M30 engines,
tighten the bolts in three stages to the final
torque, leaving out the thrust bearing cap
bolts at this stage. On M40 engines, tighten all
of the bolts in the two stages given in the
Specifications.
26On M10, M20 and M30 engines, tighten
the thrust bearing cap bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
27On manual transmission models, fit a new
pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft (see
Chapter 8).28Rotate the crankshaft a number of times
by hand to check for any obvious binding.
29The final step is to check the crankshaft
endfloat with a feeler gauge or a dial indicator
as described in Section 13. The endfloat
should be correct, providing the crankshaft
thrust faces aren’t worn or damaged, and new
bearings have been fitted.
30Fit the new seal, then bolt the housing to
the block (see Section 25).
25 Crankshaft rear oil seal-
refitting
3
1The crankshaft must be fitted first, and the
main bearing caps bolted in place. The new
seal should then be fitted in the retainer, and
the retainer bolted to the block.
2Before refitting the crankshaft, check the
seal contact surface very carefully for
scratches and nicks that could damage the
new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the
crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is
a new or different crankshaft, unless a
machine shop can suggest a means of repair.
3The old seal can be removed from the
housing with a hammer and punch by driving
it out from the back side (see illustration). Be
sure to note how far it’s recessed into the
housing bore before removing it; the new seal
will have to be recessed an equal amount. Be
very careful not to scratch or otherwise
damage the bore in the housing, or oil leaks
could develop.
4Make sure the retainer is clean, then apply
a thin coat of engine oil to the outer edge of
the new seal. The seal must be pressed
squarely into the housing bore, so hammering
it into place is not recommended. At the very
least, use a block of wood as shown, or a
section of large-diameter pipe (see
illustration). If you don’t have access to a
press, sandwich the housing and seal
between two smooth pieces of wood, and
press the seal into place with the jaws of a
large vice. The pieces of wood must be thick
enough to distribute the force evenly around
the entire circumference of the seal. Work
2B•20 General engine overhaul procedures
25.5 Lubricate the lip of the seal, and bolt
the retainer to the rear of the engine block25.4 Drive the new seal into the retainer
with a wooden block or a section of pipe, if
you have one large enough - make sure
the seal enters the retainer bore squarely25.3 After removing the retainer from the
block, support it on two wooden blocks,
and drive out the old seal with a punch and
hammer
24.15 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage to the scale on the envelope to
determine the main bearing oil clearance
(always take the measurement at the
widest point of the Plastigage); be sure to
use the correct scale - standard and
metric ones are included

slowly, and make sure the seal enters the bore
squarely.
5The seal lips must be lubricated with multi-
purpose grease or clean engine oil before the
seal/retainer is slipped over the crankshaft
and bolted to the block (see illustration). Use
a new gasket - no sealant is required - and
make sure the dowel pins are in place before
refitting the retainer.
6Tighten the retainer nuts/screws a little at a
time until they’re all snug, then tighten them to
the torque listed in the Specifications in
Chapter 2A.
26 Pistons/connecting rods-
refitting and big-end bearing
oil clearance check
4
1Before refitting the piston/connecting rod
assemblies, the cylinder walls must be
perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must
be in place.
2Remove the cap from the end of No 1
connecting rod (refer to the marks made
during removal). Remove the original bearing
shells, and wipe the bearing surfaces of the
connecting rod and cap with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean.
Connecting rod big-end bearing
oil clearance check
3Clean the back side of the new upper
bearing shell, then lay it in place in the
connecting rod. Make sure the tab on the
bearing fits into the recess in the rod. Don’t
hammer the bearing shell into place, and be
very careful not to nick or gouge the bearing
face. Don’t lubricate the bearing at this time.
4Clean the back side of the other bearing
shell, and refit it in the rod cap. Again, make
sure the tab on the bearing fits into the recess
in the cap, and don’t apply any lubricant. It’s
critically important that the mating surfaces of
the bearing and connecting rod are perfectlyclean and oil-free when they’re assembled for
this check.
5Position the piston ring gaps so they’re
staggered 120° from each other.
6Where applicable, slip a section of plastic
or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap
bolt.
7Lubricate the piston and rings with clean
engine oil, and attach a piston ring
compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt
protruding about 6 or 7 mm to guide the
piston into the cylinder. The rings must be
compressed until they’re flush with the piston.
8Rotate the crankshaft until the No 1
connecting rod journal is at BDC (bottom
dead centre). Apply a coat of engine oil to the
cylinder walls.
9With the mark or notch on top of the piston
facing the front of the engine, gently insert the
piston/connecting rod assembly into the No 1
cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge of the
ring compressor on the engine block.
10Tap the top edge of the ring compressor
to make sure it’s contacting the block around
its entire circumference.
11Gently tap on the top of the piston with
the end of a wooden hammer handle (see
illustration)while guiding the end of the
connecting rod into place on the crankshaft
journal. Work slowly, and if any resistance is
felt as the piston enters the cylinder, stop
immediately. Find out what’s catching, and fix
it before proceeding. Do not, for any reason,
force the piston into the cylinder - you might
break a ring and/or the piston.
12Once the piston/connecting rod assembly
is fitted, the connecting rod big-end bearing
oil clearance must be checked before the rod
cap is permanently bolted in place.13Cut a piece of the appropriate-size
Plastigage slightly shorter than the width of
the connecting rod big-end bearing,
and lay it in place on the No 1 connecting rod
journal, parallel with the crankshaft centre-
line.
14Clean the connecting rod cap bearing
face, remove the protective hoses from the
connecting rod bolts, and refit the rod cap.
Make sure the mating mark on the cap is on
the same side as the mark on the connecting
rod.
15Refit the nuts/bolts, and tighten them to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifica-
tions. On M10 and M30 engines, work up to
the final torque in three stages. Note:Use a
thin-wall socket, to avoid erroneous torque
readings that can result if the socket is
wedged between the rod cap and nut. If the
socket tends to wedge itself between the nut
and the cap, lift up on it slightly until it no
longer contacts the cap. Do not rotate the
crankshaft at any time during this operation.
16Undo the nuts and remove the rod cap,
being very careful not to disturb the
Plastigage.
17Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage to the scale printed on the
Plastigage envelope to obtain the oil
clearance (see illustration). Compare it to the
Specifications to make sure the clearance is
correct.
18If the clearance is not as specified, the
bearing shells may be the wrong size (which
means different ones will be required). Before
deciding that different shells are needed,
make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the journal diameter. If the Plastigage
was wider at one end than the other, the
journal may be tapered (see Section 19).
Final connecting rod refitting
19Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the rod journal and/or
bearing face. Be very careful not to scratch
General engine overhaul procedures 2B•21
26.17 Measuring the width of the crushed Plastigage to
determine the big-end bearing oil clearance (be sure to use the
correct scale - standard and metric ones are included)26.11 Drive the piston gently into the cylinder bore with the end of
a wooden or plastic hammer handle
2B
The piston rings may try to
pop out of the ring
compressor just before
entering the cylinder bore, so
keep some downward pressure on the
ring compressor

the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card.
20Make sure the bearing faces are perfectly
clean, then apply a uniform layer of
molybdenum disulphide (“moly”) grease or
engine assembly oil to both of them. You’ll
have to push the piston into the cylinder to
expose the face of the bearing shell in the
connecting rod - be sure to slip the protective
hoses over the rod bolts first, where
applicable.
21Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the journal, and remove the protective
hoses from the rod cap bolts. Refit the rod
cap, and tighten the nuts/bolts to the
specified torque.
22Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining pistons/connecting rods.
23The important points to remember are:
a) Keep the back sides of the bearing shells
and the insides of the connecting rods
and caps perfectly clean when
assembling them.
b) Make sure you have the correct
piston/rod assembly for each cylinder.
c) The notch or mark on the piston must
face the front of the engine.
d) Lubricate the cylinder walls with clean oil.
e) Lubricate the bearing faces when refitting
the rod caps after the oil clearance has
been checked.
24After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly fitted, rotate
the crankshaft a number of times by hand to
check for any obvious binding.25Check the connecting rod side play (see
Section 13).
26Compare the measured side play to the
Specifications to make sure it’s correct. If it
was correct before dismantling, and the
original crankshaft and rods were refitted, it
should still be right. If new rods or a new
crankshaft were fitted, the side play may be
incorrect. If so, the rods will have to be
removed and taken to a machine shop for
attention.
27 Initial start-up and running-
in after overhaul
1
Warning:Have a fire extinguisher
handy when starting the engine
for the first time.
1Once the engine has been refitted in the
vehicle, double-check the engine oil and
coolant levels.
2With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled (see Section 3), crank
the engine until oil pressure registers on the
gauge, or until the oil pressure warning light
goes out.
3Refit the spark plugs, connect the HT leads,
and restore the ignition system functions (see
Section 3).
4Start the engine. It may take a few
moments for the fuel system to build uppressure, but the engine should start without
a great deal of effort. Note: If backfiring
occurs through the throttle body or
carburettor, check the valve timing (check that
the timing chain/belt has been correctly fitted),
the firing order (check the fitted order of the
spark plug HT leads), and the ignition timing.
5After the engine starts, it should be allowed
to warm up to normal operating temperature.
While the engine is warming up, make a
thorough check for fuel, oil and coolant leaks.
6Shut the engine off and recheck the engine
oil and coolant levels.
7Drive the vehicle to an area with minimum
traffic, accelerate at full throttle from 30 to
50 mph, then lift off the throttle completely,
and allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph with
the throttle closed. Repeat the procedure
10 or 12 times. This will load the piston rings,
and cause them to seat properly against the
cylinder walls. Check again for oil and coolant
leaks.
8Drive the vehicle gently for the first
500 miles (no sustained high speeds) and
keep a constant check on the oil level. It is not
unusual for an engine to use oil during the
running-in period.
9At approximately 500 to 600 miles, change
the oil and filter.
10For the next few hundred miles, drive the
vehicle normally - don’t nurse it, but don’t
abuse it, either.
11After 2000 miles, change the oil and filter
again. The engine may now be considered to
be fully run-in.
2B•22 General engine overhaul procedures

REF•11
REF
Fault Finding
Engine misses at idle speed
m mSpark plugs worn or incorrectly-gapped (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leaks (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low compression (Chapter 2).
m mFaulty charcoal canister, where fitted (Chapter 6).
Engine misses throughout driving speed range
m
mFuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
m mLow fuel output at the injectors, or partially-blocked carburettor
jets (Chapter 4).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mCracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor HT leads, or
damaged distributor components (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty emission system components (Chapter 6).
m mLow or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).
m mWeak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).
m mVacuum leak in fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum
hoses (Chapter 4).
Engine misfires on acceleration
m mSpark plugs fouled (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mFuel filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mIntake manifold air leak (Chapter 4).
Engine surges while holding accelerator steady
m
mIntake air leak (Chapter 4).
m mFuel pump faulty (Chapter 4).
m mLoose fuel injector harness connections (Chapters 4 and 6).
m mDefective ECU (Chapter 5).
Engine lacks power
m
mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mExcessive play in distributor shaft (Chapter 5).
m mWorn rotor, distributor cap or HT leads (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mFaulty coil (Chapter 5).
m mBrakes binding (Chapter 1).
m mAutomatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mClutch slipping (Chapter 8).
m mFuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
m mEmission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mLow or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).
Engine stalls
m
mIdle speed incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mFuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system
(Chapter 1).
m mDistributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty emissions system components (Chapter 6).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak in the fuel injection system, intake manifold or
vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).
Engine backfires
m mEmissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator,
faulty plug HT leads, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at fuel injector(s), intake manifold or vacuum hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mValve clearances incorrect (Chapter 1), or valve(s) sticking or
damaged (Chapter 2).
Pinking or knocking engine sounds when
accelerating or driving uphill
m mIncorrect grade of fuel.
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor in need of adjustment (Chap-
ter 4).
m mDamaged spark plugs or HT leads, or incorrect type fitted (Chapter 1).
m mWorn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty emission system (Chapter 6).
m mVacuum leak (Chapter 4).
Engine runs with oil pressure light on
Caution: Stop the engine immediately if the oil
pressure light comes on and establish the cause.
Running the engine while the oil pressure is low can
cause severe damage.
m mLow oil level (Chapter 1).
m mIdle speed too low (Chapter 1).
m mShort-circuit in wiring (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty oil pressure sender unit (Chapter 2).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
Engine runs-on after switching off
m
mIdle speed too high (Chapter 1).
m mExcessive engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mIncorrect fuel octane grade.
m mSpark plugs defective or incorrect grade (Chapter 1).
Engine electrical system
Battery will not hold charge
m
mAlternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).
m mElectrolyte level low (Chapter 1).
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mAlternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).
m mLoose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter 5).
m mShort in vehicle wiring (Chapters 5 and 12).
m mInternally-defective battery (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light bulb blown - on some early
models (Chapter 5)
Ignition (no-charge) warning light fails to go out
m mFaulty alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5).
m mAlternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mAlternator voltage regulator inoperative (Chapter 5).
Ignition (no-charge) warning light fails to come on
when key is turned
m mWarning light bulb defective (Chapter 12).
m mFault in the printed circuit, wiring or bulbholder (Chapter 12).

REF•21
REF
Glossary of Technical Terms
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.Catalytic converterA silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
CirclipA ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
ClearanceThe amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil springA spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
CompressionReduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratioThe relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) jointA type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plugA disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
CrankcaseThe lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
CrankshaftThe main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.Crocodile clipSee Alligator clip
DDiagnostic codeCode numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brakeA brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC)An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
DriveshaftAny shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Drum brakeA type of brake using a drum-
shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
Castellated nut
Catalytic converter
Crankshaft assembly
Carburettor
Canister
Drum brake assembly
Accessory drivebelts
Driveshaft

REF•23
REF
Glossary of Technical Terms
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful tothe ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
RotorIn a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
RunoutThe amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
SSealantA liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lampAn older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebeltA single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
ShimThin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammerA special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
SprocketA tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switchOn vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage

REF•24Glossary of Technical Terms
automatic transmission, a switch that
prevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutral
or Park.
StrutSee MacPherson strut.
TTappetA cylindrical component which
transmits motion from the cam to the valve
stem, either directly or via a pushrod and
rocker arm. Also called a cam follower.
ThermostatA heat-controlled valve that
regulates the flow of coolant between the
cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining
optimum engine operating temperature. A
thermostat is also used in some air cleaners in
which the temperature is regulated.
Thrust bearingThe bearing in the clutch
assembly that is moved in to the release levers
by clutch pedal action to disengage the
clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.
Timing beltA toothed belt which drives the
camshaft. Serious engine damage may result
if it breaks in service.
Timing chainA chain which drives the
camshaft.
Toe-inThe amount the front wheels are
closer together at the front than at the rear. On
rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of
toe-in is usually specified to keep the front
wheels running parallel on the road by
offsetting other forces that tend to spread the
wheels apart.
Toe-outThe amount the front wheels are
closer together at the rear than at the front. Onfront wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of
toe-out is usually specified.
ToolsFor full information on choosing and
using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive
Tools Manual.
TracerA stripe of a second colour applied to
a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from
another one with the same colour insulator.
Tune-upA process of accurate and careful
adjustments and parts replacement to obtain
the best possible engine performance.
TurbochargerA centrifugal device, driven by
exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.
Normally used to increase the power output
from a given engine displacement, but can
also be used primarily to reduce exhaust
emissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Diesel
engine).
UUniversal joint or U-jointA double-pivoted
connection for transmitting power from a
driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A U-
joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a
cross-shaped member called the spider.
VValveA device through which the flow of
liquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulk
may be started, stopped, or regulated by a
movable part that opens, shuts, or partiallyobstructs one or more ports or passageways.
A valve is also the movable part of such a
device.
Valve clearanceThe clearance between the
valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is
measured when the valve is closed.
Vernier caliperA precision measuring
instrument that measures inside and outside
dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
micrometer, but more convenient.
ViscosityThe thickness of a liquid or its
resistance to flow.
VoltA unit for expressing electrical “pressure”
in a circuit. One volt that will produce a current
of one ampere through a resistance of one
ohm.
WWeldingVarious processes used to join metal
items by heating the areas to be joined to a
molten state and fusing them together. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Welding Manual.
Wiring diagramA drawing portraying the
components and wires in a vehicle’s electrical
system, using standardised symbols. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.

REF•27
REF
Index
R
Radiator - 3•3, 11•4
Radio - 12•4
Receiver-drier - 3•9
Regulator (voltage) - 5•10
Regulator (window) - 11•8
Relays - 12•2
Repair procedures - REF•8
Respraying - 11•3
Reversing light switch - 7B•4
Rocker arms - 2B•11
Rotor - 1•18
Routine maintenance and servicing- 1•1
et seq
Routine maintenance - air conditioning
system - 3•8
Routine maintenance - bodywork and
underframe - 11•1
Routine maintenance - hinges and locks -
11•4
Routine maintenance - interior trim - 11•2
Routine maintenance - upholstery and
carpets - 11•2
Rust holes in bodywork - 11•2
S
Safety first! - 0•5
Scalding - 0•5
Scratches in bodywork - 11•2
Screw threads and fastenings - REF•8
Seat belt - 11•9, REF•2
Seats - 11•9, REF•2
Selector lever - 7B•3, 7B•5
Selector shaft - 7A•2
Service Indicator (SI) board - 12•4
Service indicator light - 1•26
Servo - 9•2, 9•10, 9•11
Shock absorber - 1•21, 10•7, 10•8, 10•9,
REF•2, REF•3
Shoes - 9•7
Short-circuit - 12•2Silencer - 4•20
Slave cylinder - 8•3
Spares - REF•19
Spark plug - 1•17, 1•18
Speed sensors - 5•8
Springs - 10•7, 10•9, REF•3
Starter inhibitor - 7B•4
Starter motor - 5•12
Starter motor fault - REF•10
Starting system - 5•11
Steering box - 10•15
Steering column - 11•9, 12•3, REF•1
Steering gear - 10•12, 10•13, REF•3
Steering linkage - 10•14
Steering wheel - 10•16, REF•1
Stop-light switch - 9•13
Struts - 1•21, 10•6, 10•7
Sump - 2A•15
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) -
12•8
Suspension and steering systems- 1•21,
1•22, 10•1et seq, REF•2, REF•3
Suspension and steering fault finding -
REF•15
Switches - 7B•4, 9•13, 12•3
T
Tailgate - 11•6
Tappets - 2B•11
Thermostat - 3•2
Thermotime switch - 4•17, 4•18
Throttle body - 4•16
Throttle linkage - 1•20
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - 6•3
Throttle positioner - 4•13, 4•14
Thrust arm - 10•5
Timing - 5•4
Timing belt - 1•26, 2A•8, 2A•9
Timing chain - 2A•6, 2A•8
Timing sensors - 6•4
Tools - REF•5, REF•7, REF•8
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston -
2A•3Torque converter - 7B•5
Towing - 0•8
Track rod ends - 10•13
Trailing arms - 10•10
Transmission - SeeManual transmission or
Automatic transmission
Trim - 11•2, 11•6
Tyres - 1•9, 1•14, 10•16, REF•4, REF•15
U
Underframe - 11•1
Universal joints - 8•8
Upholstery - 11•2
V
Vacuum hoses - 1•14
Vacuum servo - 9•10
Valve clearances - 1•19
Valve cover - 2A•4
Valves - 2B•10, 2B•11
Vehicle identification - REF•2, REF•19
Voltage checks - 12•1
Voltage regulator - 5•10
W
Washer fluid - 1•9
Water pump - 3•5
Weekly checks- 1•7et seq
Wheel alignment - 10•17
Wheel bearings - 10•8, 10•11, REF•3
Wheel changing - 0•8
Wheels - 10•16, REF•4
Windows - 11•8, 12•9
Windscreen - REF•1
Wiper blades - 1•23
Wiper motor - 12•7
Wiring diagrams- 12•9et seq
Working faclities - REF•7