oil level BMW 3 SERIES 1988 E30 Workshop Manual

1
Engine
Oil filter
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C121
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C160
M30 engines
3-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C160
5-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X115
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X120
Valve clearances (intake and exhaust)
M10 engines
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm
M20 engines
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm
M30 engines
Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm
Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 mm
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic adjusters
Cooling system
Antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40% antifreeze/60% water
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Automatic transmission fluid and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Brake system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Differential lubricant change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Differential lubricant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Engine idle speed and CO level check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 12
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Engine timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system check . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Fuel system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Manual transmission lubricant change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Manual transmission lubricant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Service light resetting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Spark plug check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Spark plug HT leads, distributor cap and rotor - check
and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Throttle linkage - check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Tune-up general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Underbonnet hoses - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Valve clearances - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Wiper blades - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
1•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents

Maintenance schedule
The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumption
that the vehicle owner will be doing the maintenance or service work,
as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work.
Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory rec-
ommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that
such items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervals
that promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject to
the preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or her
vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle’s ultimate
resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be
performed more often than recommended in the following schedule.
We encourage such owner initiative.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced initially by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, to protect the factory warranty.
In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the
owner (check with your dealer service department for more
information).
1•4Maintenance and servicing
Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever
comes first
m mCheck the engine oil level (Section 4)
m mCheck the engine coolant level (Section 4)
m mCheck the brake fluid level (Section 4)
m mCheck the clutch fluid level (Section 4)
m mCheck the washer fluid level (Section 4)
m mCheck the tyres and tyre pressures (Section 5)
Every 6000 miles or 6 months,
whichever comes first
All items listed above, plus:
m mChange the engine oil and oil filter (Section 6)
m mCheck the power steering fluid level (Section 7)
m mCheck the tyres, and rotate if necessary (Section 9)
m mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 8)
m mCheck the underbonnet hoses (Section 10)
m mCheck/adjust the drivebelts (Section 11)
m mCheck engine idle speed and CO (Section 12)
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months,
whichever comes first
All items listed above, plus:
m mCheck/service the battery (Section 13)
m mCheck the spark plugs (Section 14)
m mCheck/renew the HT leads, distributor cap and
rotor (Section 15)
m mCheck/top-up the manual transmission lubricant
(Section 16)
m mCheck the differential oil level (Section 17)
m mCheck the valve clearances, and adjust if
necessary - does not apply to M40 engines
(Section 18)
m mCheck and lubricate the throttle linkage (Section 19)
m mRenew the air filter (Section 20)
m mCheck the fuel system (Section 21)
m mInspect the cooling system (Section 22)
m mInspect the exhaust system (Section 23)
m mInspect the steering and suspension components
(Section 24)
m mCheck the driveshaft gaiter(s) (Section 25)
m mInspect the brakes (Section 26)
m mInspect/renew the windscreen wiper blades
(Section 27)
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years,
whichever comes first
All items listed above plus:
m mChange the automatic transmission fluid and filter
(Section 28)
m mDrain, flush and refill the cooling system (Section 29)
m mRenew the spark plugs (Section 14)
m mCheck/renew the spark plug HT leads (Section 15)
m mRenew the fuel filter (Section 30)
m mChange the manual transmission lubricant (Section 31)
m mChange the differential oil (Section 32)
m mCheck the evaporative emissions system, where
applicable (Section 33)
m mReset the service indicator lights (Section 34)
m mRenew brake fluid by bleeding (see Chapter 9)
m mCheck the handbrake operation (see Chapter 9)
Every 60 000 miles
m
mRenew the timing belt (Section 35)

1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his or her vehicle with the
goals of maximum performance, economy,
safety and reliability in mind. Included is a
master maintenance schedule, followed by
procedures dealing specifically with each item
on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of various components. Servicing the vehicle,
in accordance with the mileage/time
maintenance schedule and the step-by-step
procedures, will result in a planned
maintenance programme that should produce
a long and reliable service life. Keep in mind
that it is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining
some items but not others at specified
intervals, will not produce the same results.
2 Routine maintenance
As you service the vehicle, you will discover
that many of the procedures can - and should
- be grouped together, because of the nature
of the particular procedure you’re performing,
or because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for chassis lubrication, you should inspect the
exhaust, suspension, steering and fuelsystems while you’re under the vehicle. When
the wheels are removed for other work, it
makes good sense to check the brakes, since
the wheels are already removed. Finally, let’s
suppose you have to borrow a torque wrench.
Even if you only need it to tighten the spark
plugs, you might as well check the torque of
as many critical nuts and bolts as time allows.
The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
procedures you’re planning to do, then gather
up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks
like you might run into problems during a
particular job, seek advice from a mechanic or
an experienced do-it-yourselfer.
3 Engine “tune-up”-
general information
The term “tune-up” is used in this manual to
represent a combination of individual
operations rather than one specific procedure.
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
More likely than not, however, there will be
times when the engine is running poorly due
to a lack of regular maintenance. This is even
more likely if a used vehicle, which has not
received regular and frequent maintenance
checks, is purchased. In such cases, an
engine tune-up will be needed outside of the
regular maintenance intervals. The first step in any tune-up or diagnostic
procedure to help correct a poor-running
engine is a cylinder compression check. A
compression check (see Chapter 2B) will help
determine the condition of internal engine
components, and should be used as a guide
for tune-up and repair procedures. If, for
instance, a compression check indicates
serious internal engine wear, a conventional
tune-up will not improve the performance of
the engine, and would be a waste of time and
money. Because of its importance, the
compression check should be done by
someone with the right equipment, and the
knowledge to use it properly.
The following procedures are those most
often needed to bring a generally poor-
running engine back into a proper state of
tune.
Minor tune-up
Check all engine-related fluids (Section 4)
Check all underbonnet hoses (Section 10)
Check and adjust the drivebelts (Sec-
tion 11)
Clean, inspect and test the battery (Sec-
tion 13)
Renew the spark plugs (Section 14)
Inspect the spark plug HT leads, distributor
cap and rotor (Section 15)
Check the air filter (Section 20)
Check the cooling system (Section 22)
Major tune-up
All items listed under minor tune-up, plus . . .
Check the ignition system (see Chapter 5)
Check the charging system (see Chapter 5)
Check the fuel system (see Chapter 4)
Renew the spark plug HT leads, distributor
cap and rotor (Section 15)
1•7
1
Routine Maintenance
Weekly checks
4 Fluid level checks
1
Note:The following are fluid level checks to
be done on a 250-mile or weekly basis.
Additional fluid level checks can be found in
specific maintenance procedures which
follow. Regardless of intervals, be alert to fluid
leaks under the vehicle, which would indicate
a fault to be corrected immediately.
1Fluids are an essential part of the
lubrication, cooling, brake and windscreen
washer systems. Because the fluids gradually
become depleted and/or contaminated during
normal operation of the vehicle, they must be
periodically replenished. See “Lubricants and
fluids”at the beginning of this Chapter before
adding fluid to any of the following
components. Note:The vehicle must be on
level ground when any fluid levels are
checked.
Engine oil
2Engine oil is checked with a dipstick, which
is located on the side of the engine (refer to
the underbonnet illustrations in this Chapter
for dipstick location). The dipstick extends
through a metal tube down into the sump.
3The engine oil should be checked before
the vehicle has been driven, or at least
15 minutes after the engine has been shut off.
4Pull the dipstick out of the tube, and wipe
all of the oil away from the end with a clean
rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all
the way back into the tube, and pull it out
again. Note the oil at the end of the dipstick.
At its highest point, the oil should be betweenthe two notches or marks (see illustration).
5It takes one litre of oil to raise the level from
the lower mark to the upper mark on the
dipstick. Do not allow the level to drop below
the lower mark, or oil starvation may cause
4.4 The oil level should be kept between
the two marks, preferably at or near the
upper one - if it isn’t, add enough oil to
bring the level to the upper mark
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper part of
the engine, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick.

engine damage. Conversely, overfilling the
engine (adding oil above the upper mark) may
cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks, or oil
seal failures.
6To add oil, remove the filler cap located on
the valve cover (see illustrations). After
adding oil, wait a few minutes to allow the
level to stabilise, then pull the dipstick out and
check the level again. Add more oil if required.
Refit the filler cap, tightening it by hand only.
7Checking the oil level is an important
preventive maintenance step. A consistently
low oil level indicates oil leakage through
damaged seals or defective gaskets, or oil
burning (internal leakage past worn rings or
valve guides). The condition of the oil should
also be noted. If the oil looks milky in colour or
has water droplets in it, the cylinder head
gasket may be blown, or the head or block
may be cracked. The engine should be
repaired immediately. Whenever you check
the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger
up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you
see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the
dipstick, the oil should be changed (see
Section 6).
Engine coolant
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the vehiclepaintwork. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly
toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in
puddles on the floor; children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, and may drink
it. Check with local authorities about
disposing of used antifreeze. Local
collection centres may exist, to see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.
8All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a pressurised coolant recovery
system. On most models, a white plastic
expansion tank (or coolant reservoir) located
in the engine compartment is connected by a
hose to the radiator. As the engine heats up
during operation, the expanding coolant fills
the tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is
automatically drawn back into the cooling
system, to maintain the correct level.
9The coolant level in the reservoir (see
illustrations)should be checked regularly.
Add a 40%/60% mixture of ethylene glycol-
based antifreeze to water (see illustration).
Warning: Do not remove the
expansion tank cap or radiator
cap to check the coolant level,
unless the engine is completely
cold! The level in the reservoir varies with
the temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should beabove the LOW mark on the reservoir.
Once the engine has warmed up, the level
should be at or near the FULL mark. If it
isn’t, allow the engine to cool, then remove
the cap from the reservoir.
10Drive the vehicle and recheck the coolant
level. If only a small amount of coolant is
required to bring the system up to the proper
level, plain water can be used. However,
repeated additions of water will dilute the
antifreeze. In order to maintain the proper
ratio of antifreeze and water, always top-up
the coolant level with the correct mixture.
11If the coolant level drops consistently,
there must be a leak in the system. Inspect
the radiator, hoses, filler cap, drain plugs and
water pump (see Section 29). If no leaks are
noted, have the expansion tank cap or
radiator cap pressure-tested by a BMW
dealer.
12If you have to remove the cap, wait until
the engine has cooled completely, then wrap
a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the
first stop. If coolant or steam escapes, let the
engine cool down longer, then remove the
cap.
13Check the condition of the coolant as
well. It should be relatively clear. If it’s brown
or rust-coloured, the system should be
drained, flushed and refilled. Even if the
coolant appears to be normal, the corrosion
1•8
4.9d Adding antifreeze mixture4.9c On some 5-Series models, the
expansion tank (coolant reservoir) is
located on the bulkhead4.9b On other models, the expansion tank
(coolant reservoir) is located on the side of
the engine compartment - remove the cap
to add coolant
4.9a On some models, the expansion tank
(coolant reservoir) is mounted on the
radiator - make sure the level is kept at or
near the FULL mark (arrowed)4.6b Topping-up the engine oil4.6a The threaded oil filler cap is located
in the valve cover - always make sure the
area around the opening is clean before
unscrewing the cap
Weekly Checks

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first
1•11
6.17a Unscrew the bolt . . .
1
Every 6000 miles
6 Engine oil and filter change
1
Warning: Prolonged skin contact
with used engine oil is
hazardous. Use a barrier cream
and wear gloves during this procedure.
Change out of oil-soaked clothing
immediately.
1Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of rags
or newspapers handy for mopping up oil spills2Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature - oil and sludge
will flow more easily when warm. If new oil, a
filter or tools are needed, use the vehicle to go
and get them, thus warming up the engine oil
at the same time.
3Park on a level surface, and switch off the
engine when it’s warmed up. Remove the oil
filler cap from the valve cover.
4Access to the oil drain plug and filter will be
improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist,
driven onto ramps, or supported by axle
stands.
Warning: DO NOT work under a
vehicle supported only by a
hydraulic or scissors-type jack -
always use axle stands!
5If you haven’t changed the oil on this
vehicle before, get under it, and locate the
drain plug and the oil filter. Note that on some
engines, the oil filter is located on the top left-
hand side of the engine. The exhaust
components will be hot as you work, so note
how they are routed to avoid touching them.
6Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, position a drain pan under the
plug in the bottom of the engine.
7Clean the area around the plug, then
remove the plug (see illustration). It’s a good
idea to wear a rubber glove while unscrewing
the plug the final few turns, to avoid being
scalded by hot oil. Hold the drain plug againstthe threads as you unscrew it, then pull it
away from the drain hole suddenly. This will
place your arm out of the way of the hot oil, as
well as reducing the chances of dropping the
drain plug into the drain pan.
8It may be necessary to move the drain pan
slightly as oil flow slows to a trickle. Inspect
the old oil for the presence of metal particles,
which could give early warning of engine
wear.
9After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Any small metal
particles clinging to the plug would
immediately contaminate the new oil.
10Refit the plug and tighten it securely. Use
a new washer if necessary.
11Move the drain pan into position under the
oil filter.
Canister-type oil filter
12Loosen the spin-off type oil filter by
turning it anti-clockwise with a filter spanner.
Any standard filter spanner will work.
13Sometimes the spin-off type oil filter is
screwed on so tightly that it can’t be easily
loosened. If it is, punch a metal bar or long
screwdriver directly through it, and use it as a
T-bar to turn the filter. Be prepared for oil to
spurt out of the canister as it’s punctured.
14Once the filter is loose, use your hands to
unscrew it from the block. Just as the filter is
detached from the block, immediately tilt the
open end up to prevent oil inside the filter
from spilling out.
15Using a clean rag, wipe off the mounting
surface on the block. Also, make sure that
none of the old sealing ring remains stuck to
the mounting surface. It can be removed with
a scraper if necessary.
16Compare the old filter with the new one,
to make sure they are the same type. Smear
some engine oil on the rubber sealing ring of
the new filter, and screw it into place (see
illustration). Overtightening the filter will
damage the sealing ring, so don’t use a filter
spanner. Most filter manufacturers
recommend tightening the filter by hand only.
Normally, they should be tightened three-
quarters of a turn after the sealing ring
contacts the block, but be sure to follow the
directions on the filter or container.
6.1 These tools are required when
changing the engine oil and filter
1 Drain pan- It should be fairly shallow in
depth, but wide enough to prevent spills
2 Rubber gloves- When removing the drain
plug and filter, you will get oil on your
hands (the gloves will prevent burns)
3 Socket bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug
is tight, and a long bar is needed to loosen
it. The correct-size ring spanner may work
just as well
4 Socket- To be used with the bar or a
ratchet (must be the correct size to fit the
drain plug - six-point preferred)
5 Filter spanner - This is a metal band-type
spanner, which requires clearance around
the filter to be effective. This tool is not
required on all engines.
6 Filter spanner- This type fits on the bottom
of the filter and can be turned with a ratchet
or breaker bar (different-size spanners are
available for different types of filters) This
tool is not required on all engines.
6.7 Using a ring spanner to remove the oil
drain plug
6.16 Lubricate the oil filter sealing ring
with clean engine oil before refitting the
filter on the engine
Frequent oil changes are the
most important preventive
maintenance procedures that
can be done by the home
mechanic. As engine oil ages, it
becomes diluted and contaminated,
which leads to premature engine wear.

Cartridge-type oil filter
17Some models are equipped with a
cartridge-type oil filter. Unscrew the bolt,
remove the cover, and lift the filter out (see
illustrations).
18Compare the new cartridge with the old
one, to make sure they are the same type,
then lower it into the housing.
19Using a clean rag, wipe off the mounting
surface of the housing and cover. If necessary,
renew the rubber O-ring (see illustration).
Smear some clean oil on the O-ring and refit
the cover and bolt. Tighten the bolt securely.
All models
20Remove all tools and materials from under
the vehicle, being careful not to spill the oil
from the drain pan, then lower the vehicle.
21Add new oil to the engine through the oil
filler cap in the valve cover. Use a funnel to
prevent oil from spilling onto the top of the
engine. Pour the specified quantity of fresh oil
into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the
oil to drain into the sump, then check the level
on the dipstick (see Section 4 if necessary). If
the oil level is correct, refit the filler cap.
22Start the engine and run it for about a
minute. The oil pressure warning light may
take a few seconds to go out while the new
filter fills with oil; don’t rev the engine while
the light is on. While the engine is running,
look under the vehicle, and check for leaks at
the sump drain plug and around the oil filter. Ifeither one is leaking, stop the engine and
tighten the plug or filter slightly.
23Wait a few minutes, then recheck the level
on the dipstick. Add oil as necessary.
24During the first few days after an oil
change, make it a point to check frequently
for leaks and proper oil level.
25The old oil drained from the engine cannot
be re-used in its present state, and should be
discarded. Oil reclamation centres and some
service stations will accept the oil, which can
be recycled. After the oil has cooled, it can be
transferred into a container for transport to a
disposal site.
7 Power steering fluid level
check
1
1Check the power steering fluid level
periodically to avoid steering system
problems, such as damage to the pump.
Proceed as follows.Caution: Do not hold the steering
wheel against either stop (full-left
or full-right lock) for more than
five seconds. If you do, the power
steering pump could be damaged.
2On some models, the power steering fluid
reservoir is located on the left side of the
engine compartment, and has a twist-off cap
with an integral fluid level dipstick (see
illustration). Other models use a hydraulic
power steering and brake servo system which
combines the fluid in one reservoir, located at
the right rear corner of the engine
compartment.
3Park the vehicle on level ground, and apply
the handbrake.
4On models with a fluid dipstick, run the
engine until it has reached normal operating
temperature. With the engine at idle, turn the
steering wheel back and forth several times to
get any air out of the steering system. Switch
off the engine, remove the cap by turning it
anti-clockwise, wipe the dipstick clean, and
refit the cap. Remove the cap again, and note
the fluid level. It must be between the two
lines (see illustration).
5On hydraulic servo models, pump the brake
pedal about ten times or until the pedal is firm.
Remove the nut, lift the cap off, and make
sure the fluid is within 6.0 mm of the top of the
reservoir.
6Add small amounts of fluid until the level is
correct (see illustration).
1•12
7.6 Adding fluid to the power steering
reservoir7.4 The power steering fluid level should
be kept between the two arrows near the
upper step on the dipstick7.2 The power steering fluid reservoir
(arrowed) is located on the left side of the
engine compartment
6.19 Renewing the rubber O-ring in the
cover6.17c . . . and lift out the cartridge
Every 6000 miles
6.17b . . . remove the cover . . .
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

no cause for concern. Make sure that any fluid
noted is from the struts/shocks, and not from
any other source. If leakage is noted, renew
the struts or shock absorbers in axle pairs (or
as a full set).
7Check the struts/shock absorbers to be
sure that they are securely mounted and
undamaged. Check the upper mountings for
damage and wear. If damage or wear is
noted, renew the struts or shock absorbers.
8If the struts or shock absorbers must be
renewed, refer to Chapter 10 for the
procedure. Always renew both units on the
same axle, or the safety of the vehicle may be
compromised. If possible, renew all four as a
set.
Steering and suspension check
9Inspect the steering system components
for damage and distortion. Look for leaks and
damaged seals, boots and fittings.
10Clean the lower end of the steering
knuckle. Have an assistant grasp the lower
edge of the tyre and move the wheel in and
out, while you look for movement at the
steering knuckle-to-axle arm balljoints.
Inspect the balljoint boots for tears (see
illustration). If there is any movement, or the
boots are torn or leaking, the balljoint(s) must
be renewed.
11Grasp each front tyre at the front and rear
edges, push in at the front, pull out at the rear
and feel for play in the steering linkage. If any
free play is noted, check the steering gear
mountings and the track rod balljoints for
looseness. If the steering gear mountings are
loose, tighten them. If the track rods are
loose, the balljoints may be worn (check to
make sure the nuts are tight). Additional
steering and suspension system information
can be found in Chapter 10.
25 Driveshaft gaiter check
1
1The driveshaft gaiters are very important
because they prevent dirt, water and foreign
material from entering and damaging the
constant velocity (CV) joints. External oil and
grease contamination can cause the gaitermaterial to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a
good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and
water.
2Inspect the gaiters for tears and cracks, as
well as for loose clamps (see illustration). If
there is any evidence of cracks or leaking
lubricant, the gaiter must be renewed (see
Chapter 8).
26 Brake system check
2
Warning: Dust produced by lining
wear and deposited on brake
components may contain
asbestos, which is hazardous to
your health. Do not blow it out with
compressed air, and don’t inhale it! Do not
use petroleum-based solvents to remove
the dust. Brake system cleaner or
methylated spirit should be used to flush
the dust into a drain pan. After the brake
components are wiped with a damp rag,
dispose of the contaminated rag(s) and the
drain pan contents into a covered and
labelled container. Try to use asbestos-
free new parts whenever possible.
Note:In addition to the specified intervals, the
brake system should be inspected each time
the wheels are removed or a malfunction is
indicated. Because of the obvious safety con-
siderations, the following brake system checks
are some of the most important maintenance
procedures you can perform on your vehicle.
Symptoms of brake system
problems
1The disc brakes have built-in electrical wear
indicators which cause a warning light on the
dash to come on when they’re worn to the
renewal point. When the light comes on,
renew the pads immediately, or expensive
damage to the brake discs could result.
2Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) Vehicle pulls to one side when the brake
pedal is depressed
b) Brakes make squealing or dragging noises
when applied
c) Brake pedal travel excessived) Brake pedal pulsates (normal if ABS is
working)
e) Brake fluid leaks (usually on the inner side
of the tyre or wheel)
3If any of these conditions are noted, inspect
the brake system immediately.
Brake lines and hoses
Note: Steel brake pipes are used throughout
the brake system, with the exception of
flexible, reinforced hoses at the front wheels
and as connectors at the rear axle. Periodic
inspection of all these lines is very important.
4Park the vehicle on level ground, and
switch off the engine. Remove the wheel
covers. Loosen, but do not remove, the bolts
on all four wheels.
5Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
6Remove the wheels (see “Jacking and
towing” at the front of this book, or refer to
your owner’s handbook, if necessary).
7Check all brake lines and hoses for cracks,
chafing of the outer cover, leaks, blisters, and
distortion. Check the brake hoses at front and
rear of the vehicle for softening, cracks,
bulging, or wear from rubbing on other
components. Check all threaded fittings for
leaks, and make sure the brake hose
mounting bolts and clips are secure.
8If leaks or damage are discovered, they
must be repaired immediately. Refer to
Chapter 9 for detailed brake system repair
procedures.
Disc brakes
9If it hasn’t already been done, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the front wheels.
10The disc brake calipers, containing the
pads, are now visible. Each caliper has an
outer and an inner pad - all pads should be
checked.
11Note the pad thickness by looking
through the inspection hole in the caliper (see
illustration). If the lining material is 2.0 mm
thick or less, or if it is tapered from end to
end, the pads should be renewed (see
Chapter 9). Keep in mind that the lining
1•22
26.11 Look through the caliper inspection
window to inspect the brake pads - the
pad lining which rubs against the disc can
also be inspected by looking through each
end of the caliper25.2 Gently probe the driveshaft boots to
check for cracks24.10 Inspect the balljoint boots for tears
(arrowed)
Every 12 000 miles

the lubricant will be hot, it would be wise to
wear rubber gloves.
3Raise the vehicle and place it on axle
stands. Make sure it is safely supported, and
as level as possible.
4Move the necessary equipment under the
vehicle, being careful not to touch any of the
hot exhaust components.
5Place the drain pan under the transmission,
and remove the filler/level plug from the side
of the transmission. Loosen the drain plug
(see illustration).
6Carefully remove the drain plug. Be careful
not to burn yourself on the lubricant.
7Allow the lubricant to drain completely.
Clean the drain plug thoroughly, then refit and
tighten it securely.
8Refer to Section 16 and fill the transmission
with new lubricant, then refit the filler/level
plug, tightening it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
32 Differential lubricant change
1
1Drive the vehicle for several miles to warm
up the differential lubricant, then raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and an
Allen key under the vehicle. Since the
lubricant will be hot, wear rubber gloves to
prevent burns.
3Remove the filler/level plug from the
differential; this is the upper of the two plugs.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
loosen the drain plug; this is the lower of the
two plugs (see illustration).
5Carefully unscrew the drain plug until you
can remove it from the case.
6Allow all the oil to drain into the pan, then
refit the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 17 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the filler/level plug and tighten it
securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
33 Evaporative emissions
control (EVAP) system check
1
1The function of the evaporative emissions
control system is to draw fuel vapours from
the tank and fuel system, store them in a
charcoal canister, and then burn them during
normal engine operation. This system is
normally only fitted to those vehicles
equipped with a catalytic converter.
2The most common symptom of a fault in
the evaporative emissions system is a strong
fuel odour in the engine compartment. If a fuel
odour is detected, inspect the charcoal
canister and system hoses for cracks. The
canister is located in the front corner of the
engine compartment on most models (see
illustration).
3Refer to Chapter 6 for more information on
the evaporative emissions system.
34 Service indicator light
resetting
4
Service indicator lights
1All models covered in this manual are
equipped with various service indicator lights
on the facia, which automatically go on when
the mileage interval is reached. These lights
can only be turned off by using a special tool
which plugs into the service connector
located in the engine compartment.
2Although the service light resetting tool can
be obtained from a dealer, reasonably-priced
alternatives may also be available from
aftermarket sources. When obtaining a tool, it
is important to know the vehicle year and
model, and whether the service connector has
15 or 20 pins (see illustrations). Once the
proper tool is obtained, it is a simple matter to
plug it into the service connector and,
following the tool manufacturer’s instructions,
reset the service lights. Note: The brake
warning light will not automatically reset if the
sensor on the brake pad (or its wiring) isdamaged because it is worn through: it must
be repaired first.
3The service lights are controlled by the
Service Indicator (SI) board in the instrument
cluster, which is powered by rechargeable
batteries. Should these batteries fail,
problems will develop in the SI board.
Symptoms of failed batteries include the
inability to reset the service lights and
malfunctions affecting the tachometer,
temperature gauge and radio operation. Refer
to Chapter 12 for more information on the SI
board.
Every 60 000 miles
35 Engine timing belt renewal
5
Note:This is not included in the
manufacturer’s maintenance schedule, but is
strongly recommended as a precaution
against the timing belt failing in service. If the
timing belt fails while the engine is running,
extensive engine damage could be caused.
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 10.
1•26
34.2b An aftermarket service light
resetting tool such as this one can be
plugged into the service connector and
used to reset the service lights
34.2a The earlier 15-pin connector
(arrowed) is mounted near the front of the
engine. The 20-pin connector used on later
models is located in the left rear corner of
the engine compartment33.2 Inspect the hoses (arrowed) at the
top of the evaporative emissions charcoal
canister for damage32.4 Remove the differential drain plug
with an Allen key
Every 24 000 miles

12After the No 1 piston has been positioned
at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for
any of the remaining pistons can be located
by turning the crankshaft and following the
firing order. Mark the remaining spark plug
lead terminal locations just like you did for the
No 1 terminal, then number the marks to
correspond with the cylinder numbers. As you
turn the crankshaft, the rotor will also turn.
When it’s pointing directly at one of the marks
on the distributor, the piston for that particular
cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.
4 Valve cover-
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Detach the breather hose from the valve
cover.
3On M20 engines, unbolt and remove the
intake manifold support bracket and, if
applicable, the bracket for the engine sensors
or idle air stabiliser (it will probably be
necessary to disconnect the electrical
connectors from the sensors and stabiliser).
4On M30 engines, disconnect the electrical
connector for the airflow sensor. Unclip the
electrical harness, moving it out of the way.
5Where necessary on M30 engines, remove
the hoses and fittings from the intake air hose,
then loosen the clamp and separate the hose
from the throttle body. Unscrew the mounting
nuts for the air cleaner housing, and remove
the housing together with the air hose and
airflow sensor.
6Remove the valve cover retaining nuts and
washers (see illustrations). Where necessary,
disconnect the spark plug lead clip or coverfrom the stud(s), and set it aside. It will usually
not be necessary to disconnect the leads from
the spark plugs.
7Remove the valve cover and gasket.
Discard the old gasket. On the M40 engine,
also remove the camshaft cover (see
illustrations). If applicable, remove the semi-
circular rubber seal from the cut-out at the
front of the cylinder head.
Refitting
8Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the valve cover and cylinder head.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Gasket
removal solvents are available at
motor factors, and may prove helpful.
After all gasket material has been
removed, the gasket surfaces can be
degreased by wiping them with a rag
dampened with a suitable solvent.
9If applicable, place a new semi-circular
rubber seal in the cut-out at the front of the
cylinder head, then apply RTV-type gasket
sealant to the joints between the seal and the
mating surface for the valve cover gasket.
Note:After the sealant is applied, you should
refit the valve cover and tighten the nuts within
ten minutes.
10Refit the camshaft cover (M40 engine), the
valve cover and a new gasket. Refit the
washers and nuts; tighten the nuts evenly and
securely. Don’t overtighten these nuts - theyshould be tight enough to prevent oil from
leaking past the gasket, but not so tight that
they warp the valve cover.
11The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
5 Intake manifold-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Allow the engine to cool completely, then
relieve the fuel pressure on fuel-injection
engines (see Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
3Drain the engine coolant (see Chapter 1)
below the level of the intake manifold. If the
coolant is in good condition, it can be saved
and reused.
4On fuel injection engines, loosen the hose
clamp and disconnect the large air inlet hose
from the throttle body. It may also be
necessary to remove the entire air
cleaner/inlet hose assembly to provide
enough working room (see Chapter 4).
2A•4 In-car engine repair procedures
4.7b Removing the camshaft cover on the
M40 engine4.7a Removing the valve cover on the
M40 engine4.7c Removing the valve cover gasket on
the M40 engine
4.6b Valve cover bolt locations (arrowed)
on M20 six-cylinder engines4.6a Valve cover bolt locations (arrowed)
on M10 four-cylinder engines

13 Sump- removal and refitting
1
1Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).
2Raise the front of the vehicle and place it
securely on axle stands.
3Remove the splash shields from under the
engine.
4Where applicable, disconnect the hoses
attached to the sump, and move them to one
side (see illustration).
5Where applicable, disconnect the oil level
sensor electrical connector (see illustration).
6Where applicable, remove the cast-
aluminium inspection cover that covers the
rear of the sump (see illustrations).
7On models with the M40 engine, unbolt and
remove the lower sump section and remove
the gasket (this is necessary for access to the
front mounting bolts). Unscrew the mounting
bolt, and pull the oil dipstick tube from the
sump (see illustrations). Check the condition
of the O-ring, and renew it if necessary.
8On models with the M40 engine, unscrew
the engine mounting nuts on both sides, then
attach a suitable hoist and lift the engine
sufficiently to allow the sump to be removed.
As a safety precaution, position axle stands or
blocks of wood beneath the engine.
9Remove the bolts securing the sump to theengine block and front/rear covers (see
illustration).
10Tap on the sump with a soft-faced
hammer to break the gasket seal, and lower
the sump from the engine.
11Using a gasket scraper, scrape off all
traces of the old gasket from the engine
block, the timing chain cover, the rear main oil
seal housing, and the sump. Be especially
careful not to nick or gouge the gasket sealing
surfaces of the timing chain cover and the oil
seal housing (they are made of aluminium,
and are quite soft).
12Clean the sump with solvent, and dry it
thoroughly. Check the gasket sealing surfaces
for distortion. Clean any residue from thegasket sealing surfaces on the sump and
engine with a rag dampened with a suitable
solvent.
13Before refitting the sump, apply a little
RTV-type gasket sealant to the area where the
front and rear covers join the cylinder block..
Lay a new sump gasket in place on the block.
If necessary, apply more sealant to hold the
gasket in place.
14Carefully position the sump in place (do
not disturb the gasket) and refit the bolts.
Start with the bolts closest to the centre of the
sump, and tighten them to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications, using a criss-
cross pattern. Do not overtighten them, or
leakage may occur.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•15
13.5 If applicable, disconnect the oil level
sensor connector at the left side of the
engine, down near the power steering
pump mounting bracket13.4 If applicable, remove the nut securing
the power steering lines to the sump, and
move the lines to one side to allow you to
get at the sump bolts12.30e Angle-tightening the cylinder head
bolts (M40 engine)
13.9 Remove the bolts holding the sump
to the engine block and front cover, as
shown here on a six-cylinder engine13.7b Removing the oil dipstick tube
bracket mounting bolt
13.6b . . . remove the cover to get to all
the sump bolts13.6a Remove the four inspection cover
bolts (arrowed) and . . .
13.7a Main sump retaining bolts accessed
after removal of the lower sump section on
the M40 engine (engine on bench for clarity)
2A