tank BMW 3 SERIES 1988 E30 Workshop Manual

0•6Safety First!
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

Tyre pressures (cold) - bars (psi)Front Rear
3-Series, E30
316 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 (28) 2.1 (30)
316i
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.1 (30)
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.2 (32)
318i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 (26) 1.9 (28)
320i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 (28) 2.0 (29)
325i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 (32) 2.3 (33)
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”)
518 and 518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.0 (29)
525i and 528i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 (32) 2.2 (32)
535i and M535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 (33) 2.5 (36)
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”)
518i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.0 (29)
520i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 (32) 2.1 (30)
525i, 530i and 535i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 (29) 2.3 (33)
Torque wrench settingsNm
Automatic transmission sump bolts
Three-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 9
Four-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7
Spark plugs
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 30
Except M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 33
Oxygen sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 33
Wheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Lubricants and fluids
Component or system Lubricant type/specification
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscositySAE 10W/40 to 20W/50, to API SG
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors
Manual transmission* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 to API-GL4, or single-grade mineral-based
engine oil, viscosity SAE 20, 30 or 40 to API-SG
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron ll type ATF
Final drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BMW-approved hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 90**
Brake and clutch hydraulic systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic brake fluid to SAE J 1703 or DOT 4
Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron ll type ATF
* E34 520i & 525i with air conditioning, E34 530i & 535i - Dexron II type ATF)
** Only available in bulk; refer to your BMW dealer
Capacities*
1•3
1
Engine oil
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.3 litres
M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litres
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres
Cooling system
M10 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres
M20 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5 litres
M30 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.0 litres
M40 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres
Fuel tank
3-Series, E30
Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 litres (early),
64 litres (later)
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 litres (early),
70 litres (later)
5-Series
E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 litres
E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 litresManual transmission
ZF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 litres
Getrag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.5 litres
Automatic transmission (refill)
3-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres
4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litres
Final drive capacity (drain and refill)
3-Series, E30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 litres
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 litres
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 litres
*All capacities approximate
Servicing Specifications

1•6Maintenance and Servicing
Front underbody view of a UK model 318i
(1988)
1 Radiator
2 Engine oil drain plug
3 Front suspension control arm (left-hand
side)
4 Front anti-roll bar
5 Clutch slave cylinder
6 Transmission
7 Exhaust downpipe
8 Front suspension control arm (right-hand
side)
Typical rear underside components
1 Exhaust system
2 Differential fill/check plug
3 Driveshaft boot
4 Fuel tank filler tube
5 Differential drain plug
6 Rear brake
7 Rear shock absorber

engine damage. Conversely, overfilling the
engine (adding oil above the upper mark) may
cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks, or oil
seal failures.
6To add oil, remove the filler cap located on
the valve cover (see illustrations). After
adding oil, wait a few minutes to allow the
level to stabilise, then pull the dipstick out and
check the level again. Add more oil if required.
Refit the filler cap, tightening it by hand only.
7Checking the oil level is an important
preventive maintenance step. A consistently
low oil level indicates oil leakage through
damaged seals or defective gaskets, or oil
burning (internal leakage past worn rings or
valve guides). The condition of the oil should
also be noted. If the oil looks milky in colour or
has water droplets in it, the cylinder head
gasket may be blown, or the head or block
may be cracked. The engine should be
repaired immediately. Whenever you check
the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger
up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you
see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the
dipstick, the oil should be changed (see
Section 6).
Engine coolant
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the vehiclepaintwork. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly
toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in
puddles on the floor; children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, and may drink
it. Check with local authorities about
disposing of used antifreeze. Local
collection centres may exist, to see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.
8All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a pressurised coolant recovery
system. On most models, a white plastic
expansion tank (or coolant reservoir) located
in the engine compartment is connected by a
hose to the radiator. As the engine heats up
during operation, the expanding coolant fills
the tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is
automatically drawn back into the cooling
system, to maintain the correct level.
9The coolant level in the reservoir (see
illustrations)should be checked regularly.
Add a 40%/60% mixture of ethylene glycol-
based antifreeze to water (see illustration).
Warning: Do not remove the
expansion tank cap or radiator
cap to check the coolant level,
unless the engine is completely
cold! The level in the reservoir varies with
the temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should beabove the LOW mark on the reservoir.
Once the engine has warmed up, the level
should be at or near the FULL mark. If it
isn’t, allow the engine to cool, then remove
the cap from the reservoir.
10Drive the vehicle and recheck the coolant
level. If only a small amount of coolant is
required to bring the system up to the proper
level, plain water can be used. However,
repeated additions of water will dilute the
antifreeze. In order to maintain the proper
ratio of antifreeze and water, always top-up
the coolant level with the correct mixture.
11If the coolant level drops consistently,
there must be a leak in the system. Inspect
the radiator, hoses, filler cap, drain plugs and
water pump (see Section 29). If no leaks are
noted, have the expansion tank cap or
radiator cap pressure-tested by a BMW
dealer.
12If you have to remove the cap, wait until
the engine has cooled completely, then wrap
a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the
first stop. If coolant or steam escapes, let the
engine cool down longer, then remove the
cap.
13Check the condition of the coolant as
well. It should be relatively clear. If it’s brown
or rust-coloured, the system should be
drained, flushed and refilled. Even if the
coolant appears to be normal, the corrosion
1•8
4.9d Adding antifreeze mixture4.9c On some 5-Series models, the
expansion tank (coolant reservoir) is
located on the bulkhead4.9b On other models, the expansion tank
(coolant reservoir) is located on the side of
the engine compartment - remove the cap
to add coolant
4.9a On some models, the expansion tank
(coolant reservoir) is mounted on the
radiator - make sure the level is kept at or
near the FULL mark (arrowed)4.6b Topping-up the engine oil4.6a The threaded oil filler cap is located
in the valve cover - always make sure the
area around the opening is clean before
unscrewing the cap
Weekly Checks

4Since some components of the fuel system
- the fuel tank and some of the fuel feed and
return lines, for example - are underneath the
vehicle, they can be inspected more easily
with the vehicle raised on a hoist. If that’s not
possible, raise the vehicle and support it on
axle stands or ramps.
5With the vehicle raised and safely
supported, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck
for punctures, cracks or other damage. The
connection between the filler neck and the
tank is particularly critical. Sometimes a
rubber filler neck will leak because of loose
clamps or deteriorated rubber. Inspect all fuel
tank mounting brackets and straps, to be sure
the tank is securely attached to the vehicle.
Warning: Do not, under any
circumstances, try to repair a fuel
tank (except rubber
components). A welding torch or
any naked flame can easily cause fuel
vapours inside the tank to explode.
6Carefully check all flexible hoses and metal
lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check
for loose connections, deteriorated hoses,
crimped lines, and other damage. Repair or
renew damaged sections as necessary (see
Chapter 4).
22 Cooling system check
1
1Many major engine failures can be
attributed to cooling system problems. If the
vehicle has automatic transmission, the
engine cooling system also plays an importantrole in prolonging transmission life, because it
cools the transmission fluid.
2The engine should be cold for the cooling
system check, so perform the following
procedure before the vehicle is driven for the
day, or after it has been switched off for at
leastthree hours.
3Remove the radiator cap, doing so slowly
and taking adequate precautions against
scalding if the engine is at all warm. Clean the
cap thoroughly, inside and out, with clean
water. Also clean the filler neck on the
radiator. The presence of rust or corrosion in
the filler neck means the coolant should be
changed (see Section 29). The coolant inside
the radiator should be relatively clean and
clear. If it’s rust-coloured, drain the system
and refill with new coolant.
4Carefully check the radiator hoses and the
smaller-diameter heater hoses. Inspect each
coolant hose along its entire length, renewing
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated (see illustration). Cracks will
show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay
close attention to hose clamps that secure the
hoses to cooling system components. Hose
clamps can pinch and puncture hoses,
resulting in coolant leaks.
5Make sure all hose connections are tight. A
leak in the cooling system will usually show up
as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. If wire-type clamps are
used on the hoses, it may be a good idea to
replace them with screw-type clamps.
6Clean the front of the radiator (and, where
applicable, the air conditioning condenser)
with compressed air if available, or a soft
brush. Remove all flies, leaves, etc,
embedded in the radiator fins. Be extremely
careful not to damage the cooling fins or to
cut your fingers on them.
7If the coolant level has been dropping
consistently and no leaks are detected, have
the radiator cap and cooling system pressure-
tested.
23 Exhaust system check
1
1The engine should be cold for this check,
so perform the following procedure before the
vehicle is driven for the day, or after it has
been switched off for at leastthree hours.
Check the complete exhaust system from the
engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, the
inspection should be done with the vehicle on
a hoist, to give unrestricted access. If a hoist
isn’t available, raise the vehicle and support it
securely on axle stands or ramps.
2Check the exhaust pipes and connections
for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, and
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
mountings are in good condition, and that
they are tight (see illustration).
3At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with suitable sealant.
4Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
mountings and heat shields. Try to move the
pipes, silencers (and, where applicable, the
catalytic converter). If the components can
come in contact with the body or suspension
parts, re-hang the exhaust system with new
mountings.
5The running condition of the engine may be
checked by inspecting inside the end of the
tailpipe. The exhaust deposits here are an
indication of the engine’s state of tune. If the
pipe is black and sooty, the engine may be
running too rich, indicating the need for a
thorough fuel system inspection.
24 Steering and suspension
check
1
Note: The steering linkage and suspension
components should be checked periodically.
Worn or damaged suspension and steering
linkage components can result in excessive
and abnormal tyre wear, poor ride quality and
vehicle handling, and reduced fuel economy.
For detailed illustrations of the steering and
suspension components, refer to Chapter 10.
Strut/shock absorber check
1Park the vehicle on level ground, turn the
engine off and apply the handbrake. Check
the tyre pressures.
2Push down at one corner of the vehicle,
then release it while noting the movement of
the body. It should stop moving and come to
rest in a level position with one or two
bounces.
3If the vehicle continues to move up and
down, or if it fails to return to its original
position, a worn or weak strut or shock
absorber is probably the reason.
4Repeat the above check at each of the
three remaining corners of the vehicle.
5Raise the vehicle and support it on axle
stands.
6Check the struts/shock absorbers for
evidence of fluid leakage. A light film of fluid is
1•21
22.4 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of
failing at the worst possible time - to
prevent the inconvenience of a blown
radiator or heater hose, inspect them
carefully as shown here
23.2 Check the exhaust system rubber
mountings for cracks
1
Every 12 000 miles

7Detach the sump from the transmission and
lower it, being careful not to spill the
remaining fluid (see illustration).
8Carefully clean the sump-to-transmission
contact surface.
9Pour the fluid from the sump into a suitable
container, then clean the sump with solvent
and dry it with compressed air. Be sure to
clean any metal filings from the magnet, if
applicable.
10Remove the filter from inside the
transmission (see illustrations).
11Fit the O-ring and a new filter, being sure
to tighten the bolts securely.
12Make sure that the sump gasket contact
surfaces are clean, then fit the new gasket.
Offer the sump up to the transmission, and
refit the brackets and bolts. Working aroundthe sump, tighten each bolt a little at a time
until the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations is reached. Don’t overtighten the
bolts! Connect the dipstick tube, and tighten
the collar securely.
13Lower the vehicle, and add the specified
amount of fluid through the filler tube (see
Section 8).
14With the transmission in Park and the
handbrake applied, run the engine at fast idle,
but don’t race it.
15Move the gear selector through each
position, and back to Park. Check the fluid
level.
16Check under the vehicle for leaks after the
first few trips.
29 Cooling system -draining,
flushing and refilling
1
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin,
or with the painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze
is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave
antifreeze lying around in an open container
or in puddles on the floor; children and pets
are attracted by its sweet smell, and may
drink it. Check with local authorities about
disposing of used antifreeze. Local
collection centres may exist to see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled. This will restore
the effectiveness of the antifreeze mixture and
prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which
can impair the performance of the cooling
system and cause engine damage. When the
cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the
radiator cap should be checked and renewed
if necessary.
Draining
2If the vehicle has just been driven, wait
several hours to allow the engine to cool down
before beginning this procedure.
3Once the engine is completely cool, remove
the expansion tank cap or radiator cap. If the
cap must be removed while the engine is still
warm, unscrew it slowly, and take adequate
precautions to avoid scalding.
4Move a large container under the radiator to
catch the coolant. Where a drain plug is fitted,
unscrew it (a pair of pliers or screwdriver may
be required to turn it, depending on the
model) (see illustration). Where there is no
drain plug, it will be necessary to disconnect
the bottom hose from the radiator.
5While the coolant is draining, check the
condition of the radiator hoses, heater hoses
and clamps (see Section 21 if necessary).
6Renew any damaged clamps or hoses (see
Chapter 3 for detailed renewal procedures).
1•24
28.10c Remove the O-ring from the
transmission. If it is in good condition,
clean it and transfer it to the new fluid
filter; otherwise, renew it
28.10b . . . then remove the fluid filter from
the transmission28.10a Use a Torx key to remove the filter
bolts . . .
28.7 Lower the sump from the
transmission
28.6 Use a socket and extension to
remove the bolts and brackets28.5b Detach the tube and let the fluid
drain28.5a Unscrew the dipstick tube collar
Every 24 000 miles

Flushing
7Once the system is completely drained,
flush the radiator with fresh water from a
garden hose until the water runs clear at the
drain or bottom hose. If the radiator is
severely corroded, damaged or leaking, it
should be removed (see Chapter 3) and taken
to a radiator repair specialist.
8Flushing in this way will remove sediments
from the radiator, but will not remove rust and
scale from the engine and cooling tube
surfaces. These deposits can be removed by
using a chemical cleaner. Follow the
procedure outlined in the cleaner
manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the
cylinder block drain plug before flushing the
engine.
9On models so equipped, remove the
overflow hose from the coolant recovery
reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with
clean water, then reconnect the hose.
Refilling
10Tighten the radiator drain plug, or
reconnect the radiator bottom hose. Refit and
tighten the cylinder block drain plug.
Four-cylinder engines
11Slowly add new coolant (a 40%/60%
mixture of antifreeze to water) to the radiator
until it is full. Add coolant to the reservoir up
to the lower mark.
12Leave the radiator cap off, and run the
engine in a well-ventilated area until the
thermostat opens (coolant will begin flowing
through the radiator, and the upper radiator
hose will become hot).
13Turn the engine off, and let it cool. Add
more coolant mixture to bring the coolant
level back up to the lip on the radiator filler
neck. On the M40 engine, unscrew the bleed
screw from the top of the radiator, and add
coolant until it comes out of the bleed screw
hole. Refit and tighten the bleed screw.
14Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel
air, then add more coolant mixture if
necessary. Refit the radiator cap.
15Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature, and check for leaks.
Six-cylinder engines
16Loosen the bleed screw in the thermostat
housing (see illustration)
17Fill the radiator with a 40%/60% solution
of antifreeze and water until it comes out of
the bleed screw opening. Tighten the bleed
screw.
18Refit the radiator cap, and run the engine
until the thermostat opens (the upper radiator
hose will become hot). Slowly loosen the
bleed screw until no bubbles emerge, then
tighten the screw.
19Repeat the procedure until the air is bled
from the system.
30 Fuel filter renewal
1
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
1On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system (see Chapter 4).
2The fuel filter is located in the engine
compartment on the bulkhead, or under the
vehicle adjacent to the fuel tank.
3Because on some models the filter is
located adjacent to the starter motor, fuel
could leak onto the electrical connections. For
safety reasons, therefore, disconnect the
battery negative cable before beginning work.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
4Place a pan or rags under the fuel filter to
catch any spilled fuel. If suitable hose clamps
are available, clamp the inlet and outlet hoses.
5 Detach the hoses and remove the bracket
screws/nuts, then remove the filter and where
applicable the bracket assembly (see
illustration).
6Detach the filter from the bracket.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
the arrow on the filter points in the direction of
fuel flow.
31 Manual transmission
lubricant change
1
1Tools necessary for this job include axle
stands to support the vehicle in a raised
position, an Allen key to remove the drain
plug, a drain pan, newspapers and clean rags.
The correct amount of the specified lubricant
should also be available (see “Lubricants and
fluids”at the start of this Chapter).
2The lubricant should be drained when it is
hot (ie immediately after the vehicle has been
driven); this will remove any contaminants
better than if the lubricant were cold. Because
1•25
30.5 To renew the fuel filter, disconnect
the hoses (A), then unscrew the nut (B) and
detach the filter from the bracket (fuel
injection type shown)29.16 The bleed screw (arrowed) is
located on the thermostat housing (six-
cylinder models)29.4 Radiator drain plug location
(arrowed) - not fitted to all models
31.5 Use an Allen key to remove the drain
plug (arrowed) from the bottom of the
transmission
1
Every 24 000 miles

the lubricant will be hot, it would be wise to
wear rubber gloves.
3Raise the vehicle and place it on axle
stands. Make sure it is safely supported, and
as level as possible.
4Move the necessary equipment under the
vehicle, being careful not to touch any of the
hot exhaust components.
5Place the drain pan under the transmission,
and remove the filler/level plug from the side
of the transmission. Loosen the drain plug
(see illustration).
6Carefully remove the drain plug. Be careful
not to burn yourself on the lubricant.
7Allow the lubricant to drain completely.
Clean the drain plug thoroughly, then refit and
tighten it securely.
8Refer to Section 16 and fill the transmission
with new lubricant, then refit the filler/level
plug, tightening it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
32 Differential lubricant change
1
1Drive the vehicle for several miles to warm
up the differential lubricant, then raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and an
Allen key under the vehicle. Since the
lubricant will be hot, wear rubber gloves to
prevent burns.
3Remove the filler/level plug from the
differential; this is the upper of the two plugs.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
loosen the drain plug; this is the lower of the
two plugs (see illustration).
5Carefully unscrew the drain plug until you
can remove it from the case.
6Allow all the oil to drain into the pan, then
refit the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 17 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the filler/level plug and tighten it
securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
33 Evaporative emissions
control (EVAP) system check
1
1The function of the evaporative emissions
control system is to draw fuel vapours from
the tank and fuel system, store them in a
charcoal canister, and then burn them during
normal engine operation. This system is
normally only fitted to those vehicles
equipped with a catalytic converter.
2The most common symptom of a fault in
the evaporative emissions system is a strong
fuel odour in the engine compartment. If a fuel
odour is detected, inspect the charcoal
canister and system hoses for cracks. The
canister is located in the front corner of the
engine compartment on most models (see
illustration).
3Refer to Chapter 6 for more information on
the evaporative emissions system.
34 Service indicator light
resetting
4
Service indicator lights
1All models covered in this manual are
equipped with various service indicator lights
on the facia, which automatically go on when
the mileage interval is reached. These lights
can only be turned off by using a special tool
which plugs into the service connector
located in the engine compartment.
2Although the service light resetting tool can
be obtained from a dealer, reasonably-priced
alternatives may also be available from
aftermarket sources. When obtaining a tool, it
is important to know the vehicle year and
model, and whether the service connector has
15 or 20 pins (see illustrations). Once the
proper tool is obtained, it is a simple matter to
plug it into the service connector and,
following the tool manufacturer’s instructions,
reset the service lights. Note: The brake
warning light will not automatically reset if the
sensor on the brake pad (or its wiring) isdamaged because it is worn through: it must
be repaired first.
3The service lights are controlled by the
Service Indicator (SI) board in the instrument
cluster, which is powered by rechargeable
batteries. Should these batteries fail,
problems will develop in the SI board.
Symptoms of failed batteries include the
inability to reset the service lights and
malfunctions affecting the tachometer,
temperature gauge and radio operation. Refer
to Chapter 12 for more information on the SI
board.
Every 60 000 miles
35 Engine timing belt renewal
5
Note:This is not included in the
manufacturer’s maintenance schedule, but is
strongly recommended as a precaution
against the timing belt failing in service. If the
timing belt fails while the engine is running,
extensive engine damage could be caused.
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 10.
1•26
34.2b An aftermarket service light
resetting tool such as this one can be
plugged into the service connector and
used to reset the service lights
34.2a The earlier 15-pin connector
(arrowed) is mounted near the front of the
engine. The 20-pin connector used on later
models is located in the left rear corner of
the engine compartment33.2 Inspect the hoses (arrowed) at the
top of the evaporative emissions charcoal
canister for damage32.4 Remove the differential drain plug
with an Allen key
Every 24 000 miles

3General
Coolant capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Thermostat rating
Opening temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°C (176°F)
Fully open at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100°C (212°F)
Cooling fan thermo-switch - switching temperatures
Low-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91°C (196°F)
High-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99°C (210°F)
Torque wrench settingsNm
Mechanical cooling fan clutch-to-water pump securing
nut (left-hand thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Mechanical cooling fan-to-clutch bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Water pump bolts
Small bolts (M6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Large bolts (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Thermostat housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
Air conditioner receiver-drier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Air conditioning blower motor (E28/”old-shape” 5-series
models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Air conditioning compressor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Air conditioning condenser - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Air conditioning system - precautions and maintenance . . . . . . . . . 12
Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Coolant temperature sender unit - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling)See Chapter 1Engine cooling fan(s) and clutch - check, removal and refitting . . . . 5
Evaporator matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater and air conditioner control assembly - removal and refitting 10
Heater and air conditioning blower motor - removal,testing and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Heater matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Thermostat - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Water pump - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
3•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
1 General information
Engine cooling system
All vehicles covered by this manual employ
a pressurised engine cooling system, with
thermostatically-controlled coolant circulation.
An impeller-type water pump mounted on
the front of the block pumps coolant through
the engine. The coolant flows around each
cylinder, and towards the rear of the engine.
Cast-in coolant passages direct coolantaround the intake and exhaust ports, near the
spark plug areas, and in close proximity to the
exhaust valve guides.
A wax-pellet-type thermostat is located in-
line in the bottom hose on M10 engines, in a
housing near the front of the engine on M20
and M30 engines, or behind an elbow under
the timing belt upper cover (on the front of the
cylinder head) on M40 engines. During warm-
up, the closed thermostat prevents coolant
from circulating through the radiator. As the
engine nears normal operating temperature,
the thermostat opens and allows hot coolant
to travel through the radiator, where it’s
cooled before returning to the engine.The pressure in the system raises the
boiling point of the coolant, and increases the
cooling efficiency of the radiator. The cooling
system is sealed by a pressure-type cap. If
the system pressure exceeds the cap
pressure relief value, the excess pressure in
the system forces the spring-loaded valve
inside the cap off its seat, and allows the
coolant to escape through the overflow tube.
The pressure cap on four-cylinder models is
on the top of the radiator; on six-cylinder models,
it’s on top of a translucent plastic expansion
tank. The cap pressure rating is moulded into the
top of the cap. The pressure rating is either
1.0 bar (14 psi) or 1.2 bars (17 psi).

Warning: Do not remove the
pressure cap from the radiator or
expansion tank until the engine
has cooled completely and
there’s no pressure remaining in the
cooling system. Removing the cap from a
hot engine risks personal injury by
scalding.
Heating system
The heating system consists of a blower fan
and heater matrix located in the heater box,
with hoses connecting the heater matrix to the
engine cooling system, and the heater/air
conditioning control head on the dashboard.
Hot engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix passages all the time the engine
is running. Switching the heater on opens a
flap door to direct air through the heater
matrix, and the warmed air enters the
passenger compartment. A fan switch on the
control head activates the blower motor,
which forces more air through the heater
matrix, giving additional heater output for
demisting, etc.
Air conditioning system
The air conditioning system consists of a
condenser mounted in front of the radiator, an
evaporator mounted adjacent to the heater
matrix, a compressor mounted on the engine,
a filter-drier (receiver-drier) which contains a
high-pressure relief valve, and the plumbing
connecting all of the above components.
A blower fan forces the warmer air of the
passenger compartment through the
evaporator matrix (a radiator-in-reverse),
transferring the heat from the air to the
refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils off into
low-pressure vapour, taking the heat with it
when it leaves the evaporator.
Note: Refer to the precautions at the start
of Section 12 concerning the potential
dangers associated with the air conditioning
system.
2 Antifreeze-
general information
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin
or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. If
consumed, antifreeze can be fatal;
children and pets are attracted by its
sweet taste, so wipe up garage floor and
drip pan coolant spills immediately. Keep
antifreeze containers covered, and repair
leaks in your cooling system as soon as
they are noticed.
The cooling system should be filled with a
60/40% water/ethylene-glycol-based anti-
freeze solution, which will prevent freezing
down to approximately -27°C (-17°F). The
antifreeze also raises the boiling point of thecoolant, and (if of good quality) provides
protection against corrosion.
The cooling system should be drained,
flushed and refilled at the specified intervals
(see Chapter 1). Old or contaminated
antifreeze solutions are likely to cause
damage, and encourage the formation of rust
and scale in the system. Use distilled water
with the antifreeze, if available, or clean
rainwater. Tap water will do, but not if the
water in your area is at all “hard”.
Before adding antifreeze, check all hose
connections, because antifreeze tends to
search out and leak through very minute
openings. Engines don’t normally consume
coolant, so if the level goes down, find the
cause and correct it.
The antifreeze mixture should be
maintained at its correct proportions; adding
too much antifreeze reduces the efficiency of
the cooling system. If necessary, consult the
mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container
before adding coolant. Hydrometers are
available at most car accessory shops to test
the coolant. Use antifreeze which meets the
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.
3 Thermostat-
check and renewal
1
Warning: Do not remove the
radiator cap, drain the coolant, or
renew the thermostat until the
engine has cooled completely.
Check
1Before assuming the thermostat is to blame
for a cooling system problem, check the
coolant level, drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1)
and temperature gauge (or warning light)
operation.
2If the engine seems to be taking a long time
to warm up (based on heater output or
temperature gauge operation), the thermostat
is probably stuck open. Renew the
thermostat.
3If the engine runs hot, use your hand to
check the temperature of the upper radiator
hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is,
the thermostat is probably stuck closed,preventing the coolant inside the engine from
circulating to the radiator. Renew the
thermostat.
Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle
without a thermostat. The engine
will be very slow to warm-up in
cold conditions, resulting in poor
fuel economy and driveability. A new
thermostat is normally an inexpensive
component anyway.
4If the upper radiator hose is hot, it means
that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat
is at least partly open. Consult the “Fault
finding” Section at the rear of this manual for
cooling system diagnosis.
Renewal
All models
5Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
6Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If
the coolant is relatively new or in good
condition, save it and re-use it.
M10 engines
7The thermostat is located in the bottom
hose. First remove the cooling fan.
8Note the fitted position of the thermostat,
then unscrew the hose clamps and withdraw
the thermostat from the hose connections
(see illustration).
9Refit the thermostat-to-hose connections,
and tighten the hose clamps.
10Refit the cooling fan.
M20 and M30 engines
11Loosen the hose clamp (see illustration),
then detach the hose(s) from the thermostat
cover.
3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
3.11 On M20 and M30 engine models,
loosen the hose clamp (A) and disconnect
the hose from the thermostat housing
cover - note that the coolant temperature
sender unit (barely visible behind the fuel
pressure regulator) is located at the top of
the thermostat housing (B)
3.8 On the M10 (four-cylinder) engine, the
thermostat (arrowed) is connected in-line
in the radiator hose