Brake BMW 3 SERIES 1991 E30 Owner's Manual

7Detach the sump from the transmission and
lower it, being careful not to spill the
remaining fluid (see illustration).
8Carefully clean the sump-to-transmission
contact surface.
9Pour the fluid from the sump into a suitable
container, then clean the sump with solvent
and dry it with compressed air. Be sure to
clean any metal filings from the magnet, if
applicable.
10Remove the filter from inside the
transmission (see illustrations).
11Fit the O-ring and a new filter, being sure
to tighten the bolts securely.
12Make sure that the sump gasket contact
surfaces are clean, then fit the new gasket.
Offer the sump up to the transmission, and
refit the brackets and bolts. Working aroundthe sump, tighten each bolt a little at a time
until the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations is reached. Don’t overtighten the
bolts! Connect the dipstick tube, and tighten
the collar securely.
13Lower the vehicle, and add the specified
amount of fluid through the filler tube (see
Section 8).
14With the transmission in Park and the
handbrake applied, run the engine at fast idle,
but don’t race it.
15Move the gear selector through each
position, and back to Park. Check the fluid
level.
16Check under the vehicle for leaks after the
first few trips.
29 Cooling system -draining,
flushing and refilling
1
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin,
or with the painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze
is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave
antifreeze lying around in an open container
or in puddles on the floor; children and pets
are attracted by its sweet smell, and may
drink it. Check with local authorities about
disposing of used antifreeze. Local
collection centres may exist to see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled. This will restore
the effectiveness of the antifreeze mixture and
prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which
can impair the performance of the cooling
system and cause engine damage. When the
cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the
radiator cap should be checked and renewed
if necessary.
Draining
2If the vehicle has just been driven, wait
several hours to allow the engine to cool down
before beginning this procedure.
3Once the engine is completely cool, remove
the expansion tank cap or radiator cap. If the
cap must be removed while the engine is still
warm, unscrew it slowly, and take adequate
precautions to avoid scalding.
4Move a large container under the radiator to
catch the coolant. Where a drain plug is fitted,
unscrew it (a pair of pliers or screwdriver may
be required to turn it, depending on the
model) (see illustration). Where there is no
drain plug, it will be necessary to disconnect
the bottom hose from the radiator.
5While the coolant is draining, check the
condition of the radiator hoses, heater hoses
and clamps (see Section 21 if necessary).
6Renew any damaged clamps or hoses (see
Chapter 3 for detailed renewal procedures).
1•24
28.10c Remove the O-ring from the
transmission. If it is in good condition,
clean it and transfer it to the new fluid
filter; otherwise, renew it
28.10b . . . then remove the fluid filter from
the transmission28.10a Use a Torx key to remove the filter
bolts . . .
28.7 Lower the sump from the
transmission
28.6 Use a socket and extension to
remove the bolts and brackets28.5b Detach the tube and let the fluid
drain28.5a Unscrew the dipstick tube collar
Every 24 000 miles

the lubricant will be hot, it would be wise to
wear rubber gloves.
3Raise the vehicle and place it on axle
stands. Make sure it is safely supported, and
as level as possible.
4Move the necessary equipment under the
vehicle, being careful not to touch any of the
hot exhaust components.
5Place the drain pan under the transmission,
and remove the filler/level plug from the side
of the transmission. Loosen the drain plug
(see illustration).
6Carefully remove the drain plug. Be careful
not to burn yourself on the lubricant.
7Allow the lubricant to drain completely.
Clean the drain plug thoroughly, then refit and
tighten it securely.
8Refer to Section 16 and fill the transmission
with new lubricant, then refit the filler/level
plug, tightening it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
32 Differential lubricant change
1
1Drive the vehicle for several miles to warm
up the differential lubricant, then raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and an
Allen key under the vehicle. Since the
lubricant will be hot, wear rubber gloves to
prevent burns.
3Remove the filler/level plug from the
differential; this is the upper of the two plugs.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
loosen the drain plug; this is the lower of the
two plugs (see illustration).
5Carefully unscrew the drain plug until you
can remove it from the case.
6Allow all the oil to drain into the pan, then
refit the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 17 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the filler/level plug and tighten it
securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
33 Evaporative emissions
control (EVAP) system check
1
1The function of the evaporative emissions
control system is to draw fuel vapours from
the tank and fuel system, store them in a
charcoal canister, and then burn them during
normal engine operation. This system is
normally only fitted to those vehicles
equipped with a catalytic converter.
2The most common symptom of a fault in
the evaporative emissions system is a strong
fuel odour in the engine compartment. If a fuel
odour is detected, inspect the charcoal
canister and system hoses for cracks. The
canister is located in the front corner of the
engine compartment on most models (see
illustration).
3Refer to Chapter 6 for more information on
the evaporative emissions system.
34 Service indicator light
resetting
4
Service indicator lights
1All models covered in this manual are
equipped with various service indicator lights
on the facia, which automatically go on when
the mileage interval is reached. These lights
can only be turned off by using a special tool
which plugs into the service connector
located in the engine compartment.
2Although the service light resetting tool can
be obtained from a dealer, reasonably-priced
alternatives may also be available from
aftermarket sources. When obtaining a tool, it
is important to know the vehicle year and
model, and whether the service connector has
15 or 20 pins (see illustrations). Once the
proper tool is obtained, it is a simple matter to
plug it into the service connector and,
following the tool manufacturer’s instructions,
reset the service lights. Note: The brake
warning light will not automatically reset if the
sensor on the brake pad (or its wiring) isdamaged because it is worn through: it must
be repaired first.
3The service lights are controlled by the
Service Indicator (SI) board in the instrument
cluster, which is powered by rechargeable
batteries. Should these batteries fail,
problems will develop in the SI board.
Symptoms of failed batteries include the
inability to reset the service lights and
malfunctions affecting the tachometer,
temperature gauge and radio operation. Refer
to Chapter 12 for more information on the SI
board.
Every 60 000 miles
35 Engine timing belt renewal
5
Note:This is not included in the
manufacturer’s maintenance schedule, but is
strongly recommended as a precaution
against the timing belt failing in service. If the
timing belt fails while the engine is running,
extensive engine damage could be caused.
Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 10.
1•26
34.2b An aftermarket service light
resetting tool such as this one can be
plugged into the service connector and
used to reset the service lights
34.2a The earlier 15-pin connector
(arrowed) is mounted near the front of the
engine. The 20-pin connector used on later
models is located in the left rear corner of
the engine compartment33.2 Inspect the hoses (arrowed) at the
top of the evaporative emissions charcoal
canister for damage32.4 Remove the differential drain plug
with an Allen key
Every 24 000 miles

1 General information
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to in-
vehicle engine repair procedures. All
information concerning engine removal and
refitting and engine block and cylinder head
overhaul can be found in Chapter 2B.
The following repair procedures are based
on the assumption that the engine is still fitted
in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle and mounted on a stand,
many of the steps outlined in this Part of
Chapter 2 will not apply.
The Specifications included in this Part of
Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures
contained in this Part. Chapter 2B contains
the Specifications necessary for cylinder head
and engine block rebuilding.
The single overhead camshaft four- and
six-cylinder engines covered in this manual
are very similar in design. Where there are
differences, they will be pointed out.
The means by which the overhead
camshaft is driven varies according to engine
type; M10 and M30 engines use a timing
chain, while M20 and M40 engines have a
timing belt.
2 Repair operations possible
with the engine in the vehicle
Many major repair operations can be
accomplished without removing the engine
from the vehicle.
Clean the engine compartment and the
exterior of the engine with some type of
degreaser before any work is done. It will
make the job easier, and help keep dirt out of
the internal areas of the engine.
Depending on the components involved, it
may be helpful to remove the bonnet to
improve access to the engine as repairs are
performed (see Chapter 11 if necessary).
Cover the wings to prevent damage to the
paint. Special pads are available, but an old
bedspread or blanket will also work.
If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks
develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal
renewal, the repairs can generally be made
with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and
exhaust manifold gaskets, sump gasket,
crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket
are all accessible with the engine in place.
Exterior components, such as the intake
and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil
pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the
alternator, the distributor and the fuel system
components, can be removed for repair with
the engine in place.
The cylinder head can be removed without
removing the engine, so this procedure is
covered in this Part of Chapter 2. Camshaft,
rocker arm and valve component servicing ismost easily accomplished with the cylinder
head removed; these procedures are covered
in Part B of this Chapter. Note, however, that
the camshaft on the M40 engine may be
removed with the engine in the vehicle since it
is retained by bearing caps.
In extreme cases caused by a lack of
necessary equipment, repair or renewal of
piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and
big-end bearings is possible with the engine in
the vehicle. However, this practice is not
recommended, because of the cleaning and
preparation work that must be done to the
components involved.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for
No 1 piston- locating
2
Note 1:The following procedure is based on
the assumption that the distributor (if
applicable) is correctly fitted. If you are trying
to locate TDC to refit the distributor correctly,
piston position must be determined by feeling
for compression at the No 1 spark plug hole,
then aligning the ignition timing marks or
inserting the timing tool in the flywheel, as
applicable.
Note 2:The No 1 cylinder is the one closest to
the radiator.
1Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point
in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it
travels up and down when the crankshaft
turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the
compression stroke and again on the exhaust
stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston
position on the compression stroke.
2Positioning the piston at TDC is an essential
part of many procedures, such as timing belt
or chain removal and distributor removal.
3Before beginning this procedure, be sure to
place the transmission in Neutral, and apply
the handbrake or chock the rear wheels. Also,
disable the ignition system by detaching the
coil wire from the centre terminal of the
distributor cap, and earthing it on the engine
block with a jumper wire. Remove the spark
plugs (see Chapter 1).
4In order to bring any piston to TDC, the
crankshaft must be turned using one of the
methods outlined below. When looking at the
front of the engine, normal crankshaft rotation
is clockwise.
(a) The preferred method is to turn the
crankshaft with a socket and ratchet
attached to the bolt threaded into the
front of the crankshaft.
(b) A remote starter switch, which may save
some time, can also be used. Follow the
instructions included with the switch.
Once the piston is close to TDC, use a
socket and ratchet as described in the
previous paragraph.
(c) If an assistant is available to turn the
ignition switch to the Start position in
short bursts, you can get the piston close
to TDC without a remote starter switch.Make sure your assistant is out of the
vehicle, away from the ignition switch,
then use a socket and ratchet as
described in (a) to complete the
procedure.
5Note the position of the terminal for the
No 1 spark plug lead on the distributor cap. If
the terminal isn’t marked, follow the plug lead
from the No 1 cylinder spark plug to the cap
(No 1 cylinder is nearest the radiator).
6Use a felt-tip pen or chalk to make a mark
directly below the No 1 terminal on the
distributor body or timing cover.
7Detach the distributor cap, and set it aside
(see Chapter 1 if necessary).
8Turn the crankshaft (see paragraph 4
above) until the timing marks (located at the
front of the engine) are aligned (see
illustration). The M40 engine does not have
any timing marks at the front of the engine,
but instead has a timing hole in the flywheel
which must be aligned with a hole in the rear
flange of the cylinder block. On this engine,
turn the crankshaft until the distributor rotor is
approaching the No 1 TDC position, then
continue to turn the crankshaft until a suitable
close-fitting drill can be inserted through the
hole in the cylinder block and into the
flywheel.
9Look at the distributor rotor - it should be
pointing directly at the mark you made on the
distributor body or timing cover.
10If the rotor is 180 degrees out, the No 1
piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
11To get the piston to TDC on the
compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one
complete turn (360°) clockwise. The rotor
should now be pointing at the mark on the
distributor or timing cover. When the rotor is
pointing at the No 1 spark plug lead terminal
in the distributor cap and the ignition timing
marks are aligned, the No 1 piston is at TDC
on the compression stroke. Note:If it’s
impossible to align the ignition timing marks
when the rotor is pointing at the mark, the
timing belt or chain may have jumped the
teeth on the sprockets, or may have been
fitted incorrectly.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•3
3.8 Align the notch in the pulley with the
notch on the timing plate, then check to
see if the distributor rotor is pointing to the
No 1 cylinder (if not, the camshaft is 180
degrees out - the crankshaft will have to
be rotated 360 degrees)
2A

Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when cold)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector or thermotime switch
faulty (early Motronic system only) Test cold start injector and thermotime switch. Renew faulty components (see Section 19)
Fuel pump not running Check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay (see Sections 2 and 3)
Airflow meter flap (door) binding, or
stuck in open position Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test system pressure (see Section 3)
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts and oil filler and dipstick seals
Fuel injectors clogged or not operating Check fuel injectors (see Section 20) and wiring harness
Coolant temperature sensor faulty or Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
wiring problem
TPS (throttle position sensor) incorrectly adjusted Check TPS adjustment (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Dirt or other contaminants in fuel Check the fuel and drain the tank if necessary
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Crankshaft position signal missing Faulty position sensor or flywheel, or reference pin missing (see Chapter 5)
Engine difficult to start, or fails to start (when warm)
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector leaking or operating
continuously (early Motronic system only) Test cold start injector and thermotime switch (see Section 19)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel pressure (see Section 3)
Insufficient residual fuel pressure Test fuel system hold pressure (see Section 3)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks. Correct leaks as necessary
Coolant temperature sensor faulty
or wiring problem Test coolant temperature sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Vapour lock (in warm weather) Check fuel pressure (see Section 3)
EVAP system faulty Check EVAP system (see Chapter 6, Section 6)
Faulty ECU Have the ECU tested at a dealer service department or other specialist
Idle speed control system faulty Test the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
Oxygen sensor faulty (where applicable) Check the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4)
Engine misses and hesitates under load
Probable cause Corrective action
Fuel injector clogged Test fuel injectors. Check for clogged injector lines. Renew faulty injectors (see Section 20)
Fuel pressure incorrect Test fuel system pressure (see Section 3). Test fuel pressure regulator (see Section 18)
Fuel leak(s) Inspect fuel lines and fuel injectors for leaks (see Chapter 4)
Engine maintenance Tune-up engine (see Chapter 1). Check the distributor cap, rotor, HT leads and spark
plugs, and renew any faulty components
Airflow meter flap (door) binding, or Inspect the airflow meter for damage (see Section 16)
stuck in open position
Intake air leaks Inspect all vacuum lines, air ducts, and oil filler and dipstick seals
Throttle position sensor (TPS) incorrectly adjusted Check TPS adjustment (see Chapter 6)
Engine idles too fast
Probable cause Corrective action
Accelerator pedal, cable or throttle valve binding Check for worn or broken components, kinked cable, or other damage. Renew faulty
components
Air leaking past throttle valve Inspect throttle valve, and adjust or renew as required
Engine has erratic idle speed
Probable cause Corrective action
Idle air stabiliser valve faulty Check the idle air stabiliser valve (see Section 21)
No power to the idle air stabiliser valve Check the idle air stabiliser relay and wiring circuit (see Chapter 12)
Idle speed control unit faulty Have the idle speed control unit checked by a dealer
Poor fuel economy
Probable cause Corrective action
Cold start injector leaking
(early Motronic system only) Test and, if necessary, renew cold start injector (see Section 19)
Oxygen sensor faulty (where applicable) Test the oxygen sensor (see Chapter 6, Section 4))
Sticking handbrake/binding brakes Check the handbrake/braking system (see Chapter 9)
Tyre pressures low Check tyre pressures (Chapter 1)
4•22 Fuel and exhaust systems

7 Ignition timing (TCI system)-
check and adjustment
4
Warning: Keep hands, equipment
and wires well clear of the
viscous cooling fan during
adjustment of the ignition timing.
Note:This Section describes the procedure
for checking and adjusting the ignition timing
on engines fitted with the TCI system. On
engines fitted with the Motronic engine
management system, the ignition timing is
controlled by the electronic control unit, and
no adjustment is possible. The timing can be
checked using the following procedure, but no
ignition timing values were available at the
time of writing. If the timing is thought to be
incorrect, refer to a BMW dealer.
1Some special tools are required for this
procedure (see illustration). The engine must
be at normal operating temperature, and the
air conditioning (where fitted) must be
switched off. Make sure the idle speed is
correct.
2Apply the handbrake, and chock the wheels
to prevent movement of the vehicle. The
transmission must be in neutral (manual) or
Park (automatic).
3The timing marks are located on the engine
flywheel (viewed through the timing checkhole in the bellhousing) and/or on the vibration
damper on the front of the engine.
4Where applicable, disconnect the vacuum
hose from the distributor vacuum advance
unit.
5Connect a tachometer and timing light
according to the equipment manufacturer’s
instructions (an inductive pick-up timing light
is preferred). Generally, the power leads for
the timing light are attached to the battery
terminals, and the pick-up lead is attached to
the No 1 spark plug HT lead. The No 1 spark
plug is the one at the front of the engine.
Caution: If an inductive pick-up
timing light isn’t available, don’t
puncture the spark plug HT lead
to attach the timing light pick-up
lead. Instead, use an adapter between the
spark plug and HT lead. If the insulation on
the HT lead is damaged, the secondary
voltage will jump to earth at the damaged
point, and the engine will misfire.
Note:On some models, a TDC transmitter is
fitted for checking the ignition system.
However, a special BMW tester must be
connected to the diagnostic socket to use it,
so unless the special tester is available, a
conventional timing light should be used. The
ignition timing mark may be on the vibration
damper, but if not, normally the TDC mark will
be. If the timing light is of the adjustable delay
type, then the ignition timing may be
determined by zeroing the adjustment, then
turning the adjustment until the TDC marks are
aligned, and then reading off the amount of
advance from the timing light. If a standard
timing light is being used, make a mark on the
vibration damper in accordance with the
specified advance, using the following formula
to calculate the distance from the TDC mark
to the timing mark:
Distance = 2Pr x advance
360
where P = 3.142
r = radius of vibration damper
advance = specified advance
BTDC in degrees
6With the ignition off, loosen the distributor
clamp nut just enough to allow the distributor
to pivot without any slipping.7Make sure the timing light wires are routed
away from the drivebelts and fan, then start
the engine.
8Raise the engine rpm to the specified
speed, and then point the flashing timing light
at the timing marks - be very careful of moving
engine components.
9The mark on the flywheel or vibration
damper will appear stationary. If it’s aligned
with the specified point on the bellhousing or
engine front cover, the ignition timing is
correct (see illustrations).
10If the marks aren’t aligned, adjustment is
required. Turn the distributor very slowly until
the marks are aligned, taking care not to
touch the HT leads.
11Tighten the nut on the distributor clamp,
and recheck the timing.
12Switch off the engine, and remove the
timing light and tachometer. Reconnect the
vacuum hose where applicable.
8 Distributor-
removal and refitting
4
TCI system
Removal
1After carefully marking them for position,
remove the coil HT lead and spark plug HT
leads from the distributor cap (see Chapter 1).
2Remove No 1 spark plug (the one nearest
you when you are standing in front of the
engine).
3Manually rotate the engine to Top Dead
Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke for
No 1 piston (see Chapter 2A)
4Carefully mark the vacuum hoses, if more
than one is present on your distributor.
5Disconnect the vacuum hose(s).
6Disconnect the primary circuit wires from
the distributor.
7Mark the relationship of the rotor tip to the
distributor housing (see illustration). Also
mark the relationship of the distributor
housing to the engine.
5•4 Engine electrical systems
7.1 Tools for checking and adjusting the
ignition timing
1Vacuum plugs- Vacuum hoses will, in
most cases, have to be disconnected and
plugged. Moulded plugs in various shapes
and sizes can be used for this, if wished
2Inductive pick-up timing light- Flashes a
bright, concentrated beam of light when
No 1 spark plug fires. Connect the leads
according to the instructions supplied with
the light
3Distributor spanner - On some models,
the hold-down bolt for the distributor is
difficult to reach and turn with conventional
spanners or sockets. A special spanner like
this must be used
7.9a Flywheel “OT” timing mark 7.9b Flywheel “OZ” timing mark

9
General
Brake fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Disc brakes
Minimum brake pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake disc minimum permissible thickness (wear limit)*
Front
3-Series
Solid discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.7 mm
Ventilated discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 mm
5-Series
Solid discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm
Ventilated discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 mm
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm
Brake disc minimum thickness after machining
Front
3-Series
Solid discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.1 mm
Ventilated discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.4 mm
5-Series
Solid discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.4 mm
Ventilated discs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.4 mm
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.4 mm
Parallelism (difference between any two measurements) . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mm
Maximum disc run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm
*Refer to marks cast into the disc (they supersede information printed here)
Brake pedal adjustments
Brake pedal/servo pushrod adjustment (A) (3-Series) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 mm
Brake pedal height (pedal-to-bulkhead distance)
3-Series
Left-hand-drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 mm
Right-hand-drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 mm
5-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 mm
Stop-light switch adjustment (dimension A - see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm to 6.0 mm
Handbrake
Handbrake shoe lining minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Handbrake lever travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 8 clicks
Chapter 9 Braking system
Anti-lock brake system (ABS) - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Brake fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake hoses and lines - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Brake hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Brake pedal - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Brake vacuum servo - check, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Disc brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Drum brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Handbrake assembly - check, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Handbrake cable(s) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Hydraulic brake servo - description, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 9
Master cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Stop-light switch - check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
9•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents

Torque wrench settingsNm
Front disc brake caliper
Caliper guide (mounting) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 35
Caliper bracket-to-strut housing bolts
3-Series, E30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
5-Series, E34 (“new-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Rear disc brake caliper
Caliper guide (mounting) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 35
Carrier-to-trailing arm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Brake hose-to-caliper fitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 17
Master cylinder-to-brake servo nuts
3-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
5-Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 29
Brake servo mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24
Hydraulic line-to-hydraulic brake servo threaded
fittings - 5-Series, E28 (“old-shape”) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Wheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
9•2 Braking system
1 General information
All 3-Series models, and 5-Series E28 (“old-
shape”) models, are equipped with front disc
brakes and either rear drum or rear disc
brakes. 5-Series E34 (“new-shape”) models
have disc brakes front and rear. Front and
rear brakes are self-adjusting on all models.
Some later models are equipped with an Anti-
lock Braking System (ABS); this is described
in Section 2.
Hydraulic system
The hydraulic system consists of two
separate circuits. The master cylinder has
separate reservoirs for the two circuits; in the
event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic
circuit, the other circuit will remain operative.
Brake servo
The vacuum brake servo, utilising engine
manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure
to provide assistance to the hydraulically
operated brakes, is mounted on the bulkhead
in the engine compartment.
A hydraulic brake servo system is used on
5-Series E28 models. This system uses
hydraulic pressure from the power steering
pump to assist braking.
Handbrake
The handbrake operates the rear brakes,
and is cable-operated via a lever mounted in
the centre console. The handbrake assembly
on rear drum brake models is part of the rear
drum brake assembly, and is self-adjusting.
On rear disc brake models, the handbrake
uses a pair of brake shoes located inside the
centre portion of the rear brake disc, and is
manually-adjusted.
Brake pad wear warning system
The brake pad wear warning system is
linked to a red warning light in the instrumentcluster, which comes on when the brake pads
have worn down to the point at which they
require renewal. DO NOT ignore this reminder.
If you don’t renew the pads shortly after the
brake pad wear warning light comes on, the
brake discs will be damaged.
On some models, the brake pad wear
warning system also includes an early
warning light that comes on only when the
brake pedal is depressed, letting you know in
advance that the pads need to be renewed.
The wear sensor is attached to the brake
pads. The sensor is located at the left front
wheel; on some models, there is another
sensor at the right rear wheel. The wear
sensor is part of a closed circuit. Once the
pads wear down to the point at which they’re
flush with the sensor, the disc grinds away the
side of the sensor facing the disc. Thus, the
wire inside the sensor is broken, and the red
light on the instrument panel comes on.
Always check the sensor(s) when renewing
the pads. If you change the pads before the
warning light comes on, the sensor(s) may still
be good; once the light has come on, renew
the sensor.
Service
After completing any operation involving
dismantling of any part of the brake system,
always test drive the vehicle to check for
proper braking performance before resuming
normal driving. When testing the brakes, try to
select a clean, dry, road with no camber (ie as
flat as possible) and with no other traffic.
Conditions other than these can lead to
inaccurate test results.
Test the brakes at various speeds with both
light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle
should stop evenly, without pulling to one side
or the other. Avoid locking the brakes,
because this slides the tyres and diminishes
braking efficiency and control of the vehicle.
Tyres, vehicle load and wheel alignment are
factors which also affect braking
performance.
2 Anti-lock Braking system
(ABS)- general information
The Anti-lock Braking System is designed
to maintain vehicle control, directional stability
and optimum deceleration under severe
braking conditions on most road surfaces. It
does so by monitoring the rotational speed of
each wheel and controlling the brake line
pressure to each wheel during braking. This
prevents the wheels from locking up.
The ABS system has three main
components - the wheel speed sensors, the
electronic control unit, and the hydraulic
control unit. The sensors - one at each wheel
since 1985, but at both front wheels and one
at the rear differential on earlier models - send
a variable voltage signal to the control unit,
which monitors these signals, compares them
to its program information, and determines
whether a wheel is about to lock up. When a
wheel is about to lock up, the control unit
signals the hydraulic unit to reduce hydraulic
pressure (or not increase it further) at that
wheel’s brake caliper. Pressure modulation is
handled by electrically-operated solenoid
valves.
If a problem develops within the system, an
“ABS” warning light will glow on the
dashboard. Sometimes, a visual inspection of
the ABS system can help you locate the
problem. Carefully inspect the ABS wiring
harness. Pay particularly close attention to the
harness and connections near each wheel.
Look for signs of chafing and other damage
caused by incorrectly-routed wires. If a wheel
sensor harness is damaged, the sensor
should be renewed (the harness and sensor
are integral).
Warning: DO NOT try to repair an
ABS wiring harness. The ABS
system is sensitive to even the
smallest changes in resistance. Repairing
the harness could alter resistance values

and cause the system to malfunction. If
the ABS wiring harness is damaged in any
way, it must be renewed.
Caution: Make sure the ignition is
turned off before unplugging or
re-making any electrical
connections.
Diagnosis and repair
If the dashboard warning light comes on
and stays on while the vehicle is in operation,
the ABS system requires attention. Although
special electronic ABS diagnostic testing
tools are necessary to properly diagnose the
system, you can perform a few preliminary
checks before taking the vehicle to a dealer
service department.
a) Check the brake fluid level in the
reservoir.
b) Verify that the electronic control unit
connectors are securely connected.
c) Check the electrical connectors at the
hydraulic control unit.
d) Check the fuses.
e) Follow the wiring harness to each front
and rear wheel, and verify that all
connections are secure and that the
wiring is undamaged.
If the above preliminary checks do not
rectify the problem, the vehicle should bediagnosed by a dealer service department.
Due to the complex nature of this system, all
actual repair work must be done by a dealer
service department.
3 Disc brake pads- renewal
2
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on both front wheels
or both rear wheels at the same
time - NEVER renew the pads on
only one wheel. Also, the dust created by
the brake system may contain asbestos,
which is harmful to your health. Never
blow it out with compressed air, and don’t
inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask
should be worn when working on the
brakes. Do not, under any circumstances,
use petroleum-based solvents to clean
brake parts. Use brake system cleaner
only! When servicing the disc brakes, use
only original-equipment or high-quality
brand-name pads.
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Note:This procedure applies to both the front
and rear disc brakes.
1Remove the cap(s) from the brake fluid
reservoir, and syphon off about two-thirds of
the fluid from the reservoir. Failing to do thiscould result in the reservoir overflowing when
the caliper pistons are pressed back into their
bores.
2Loosen the wheel bolts, raise the front or
rear of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
3Remove the front or rear wheels, as
applicable. Work on one brake assembly at a
time, using the assembled brake for reference
if necessary.
4Inspect the brake disc carefully as outlined
in Section 5. If machining is necessary, follow
the information in that Section to remove the
disc, at which time the pads can be removed
from the calipers as well.
5Follow the accompanying photos,
beginning with illustration 3.5a, for the pad
removal procedure. Be sure to stay in order,
and read the caption under each illustration.
Note 1:Different types of front calipers are
used on 3 and 5-Series models. Illustrations
3.5a to 3.5e are for the front calipers on 3-
Series models.Illustrations 3.5f to 3.5m are
for the front calipers on 5-Series models.
There’s no photo sequence for rear calipers;
although slightly different in size, they’re
identical in design to the front brake calipers
used on 5-Series models.Note 2: Some
models may have different numbers and types
of anti-squeal shims and other hardware than
what is shown in this Chapter. It’s best to note
how the hardware is fitted on the vehicle
before dismantling, so you can duplicate it on
reassembly.
Braking system 9•3
3.5c Hold the guide pins while loosening
the caliper mounting bolts (3-Series)3.5b Unplug the electrical connector for
the brake pad wear sensor (3-Series)
3.5a On 3-Series models, unscrew the
caliper mounting bolts (left arrows); right
arrows point to the caliper bracket bolts,
which should only be removed if you’re
removing the brake disc
3.5f On 5-Series models, unplug the
electrical connector for the brake pad
wear sensor3.5e Remove the outer brake pad
(3-Series) - to fit the new pads, reverse the
removal procedure
3.5d Remove the caliper, brake pad wear
sensor and inner pad all at the same time
(3-Series), then refit the inner pad on the
piston and press the piston fully into the
bore with a C-clamp
9

6Be sure to inspect the wear sensor(s) (left
front wheel only, or left front and right rear
wheel). If they’re OK, transfer them from the
old pads to the new ones; if they’re worn by
abrasion, fit new sensors on the new pads.
7To fit the new pads, reverse the removal
procedure. When refitting the caliper, be sure
to tighten the mounting bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Warning: Check and if necessary
renew the mounting bolts on 3-
Series models whenever they are
removed. If in doubt, use new
bolts.
8After the job is completed, firmly depress
the brake pedal a few times, to bring the pads
into contact with the discs. The pedal shouldbe at normal height above the floor, and firm.
Check the level of the brake fluid, adding
some if necessary. Check carefully for leaks,
and check the operation of the brakes before
returning the vehicle to normal service.
9Avoid heavy braking as far as possible for
the first hundred miles or so until the new
pads have bedded in.
4 Disc brake caliper- removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Warning: Dust created by the
brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air, and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use
brake system cleaner only!
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Note:If an overhaul is indicated (usually
because of fluid leakage), explore all options
before beginning the job. Overhauled calipers
may be available on an exchange basis, which
makes this job quite easy. If you decide to
overhaul the calipers, make sure that anoverhaul kit is available before proceeding.
Always overhaul the calipers in pairs - never
overhaul just one of them.
Removal
1Loosen the wheel bolts, raise the front or
rear of the vehicle, and place it securely on
axle stands. Remove the wheel.
2If you’re just removing the caliper for
access to other components, it isn’t
necessary to detach the brake line. If you’re
removing the caliper for overhaul, disconnect
the brake line from the caliper, for preference
using a split ring (“brake”) spanner to protect
the fitting. Plug the line, to keep contaminants
out of the brake system and to prevent losing
brake fluid unnecessarily.
3Refer to Section 3 for the front or rear
caliper removal procedure - it’s part of the
brake pad renewal procedure. Note:The rear
caliper is similar in design to the front caliper
on 5-series models.
Overhaul
4On all calipers except the front calipers on
3-Series models, remove the circlip for the
dust seal (see illustration),then remove the
dust boot (see illustration). Before you
remove the piston, place a block of wood
between the piston and caliper to prevent
damage as it is removed.
5To remove the piston from the caliper,
apply compressed air to the brake fluid hose
connection on the caliper body (see
9•4 Braking system
3.5l Hang the caliper out of the way with a
piece of wire
3.5m Remove the outer brake pad - to fit
the new pads, reverse the removal
procedure
3.5k Unclip the inner brake pad from the
piston (5-Series)3.5j Remove the caliper and inner brake
pad (5-Series)
3.5i Depress the piston with a C-clamp
(5-Series)3.5h Prise off the anti-rattle spring
(5-Series)3.5g Remove the plugs for the brake
caliper mounting bolts, then remove the
bolts (5-Series)

illustration). Use only low pressure, such as
that produced by a foot pump, to ease the
piston out of its bore.
Warning: Be careful not to place
your fingers between the piston
and the caliper, as the piston
may come out with some force. If
you’re working on a front caliper of a 3-
Series model, remove the dust boot.
6Inspect the mating surfaces of the piston
and caliper bore wall. If there is any scoring,
rust, pitting or bright areas, renew the
complete caliper unit.
7If these components are in good condition,
remove the piston seal from the caliper bore
using a wooden or plastic tool (see
illustration). Metal tools may damage the
cylinder bore.
8Remove the caliper guide pins or bolts and
remove the rubber dust boots.
9Wash all the components using methylated
spirit or brake system cleaner.
10Using the correct overhaul kit for your
vehicle, reassemble the caliper as follows.
11Dip the new rubber seal in clean brake
fluid, and refit it in the lower groove in the
caliper bore, making sure it isn’t twisted.
12On all calipers except the front calipers of
3-Series models, coat the walls of the caliperbore and the piston with clean brake fluid, and
refit the piston at this time. Do not force the
piston into the bore, but make sure that it is
squarely in place, then apply firm (but not
excessive) pressure to refit it. Fit the new
rubber dust boot and the retaining ring.
13On the front calipers of 3-Series models,
coat the piston with clean brake fluid, and
stretch the new dust boot over the bottom of
the piston. Hold the piston over the caliper
bore, and insert the rubber flange of the dust
boot into the upper groove in the bore. Start
with the furthest side from you, and work your
way around towards the front until it is
completely seated. Push the piston into the
caliper bore until it is bottomed in the bore,
then seat the top of the dust boot in the
groove in the piston.
14Lubricate the sliding surfaces of the guide
pins or bolts with silicone-based grease
(usually supplied in the kit), and push them
into the caliper. Refit the dust boots.
Refitting
15Refit the caliper by reversing the removal
procedure (see Section 3).
Warning: Check and if necessary
renew the mounting bolts on 3-
Series models whenever they are
removed. If in doubt, use new bolts.16If the hose was disconnected from the
caliper, bleed the brake system (see Sec-
tion 16).
5 Brake disc- inspection,
removal and refitting
2
Note:This procedure applies to both the front
and rear brake discs. Brake discs should
always be renewed or refinished in pairs (both
front or both rear discs) even if only one is
damaged or defective.
Braking system 9•5
4.4b Remove the circlip for the dust seal
4.4a An exploded view of a typical rear caliper assembly (front calipers similar)
4.7 Remove the piston seal from the
caliper bore using a wooden or plastic tool
(metal tools may damage the
cylinder bore)
1 Caliper assembly
2 Bracket mounting bolt
3 Bleed screw
4 Dust cap
5 Anti-rattle spring
6 Guide bolt
7 Brake pad wear warning
light wire8 Cable clamp
9 Brake disc
10 Allen bolt
11 Shield
12 Bolt
13 Washer
14 Plug15 Plug
16 Caliper bracket
17 Cable clamp
18 Piston seal, piston, dust
boot and circlip
19 Guide bush repair kit
20 Brake pads4.5 With the caliper padded to catch the
piston, use low pressure compressed air
to force the piston out of its bore - make
sure your fingers are not between the
piston and the caliper
9