head gasket BMW 3 SERIES 1991 E30 Owner's Manual

12If the outer surface of the fitting that
mates with the hose is deteriorated (corroded,
pitted, etc.), it may be damaged further by
hose removal. If it is, a new thermostat
housing cover will be required.
13Remove the bolts and detach the housing
cover. If the cover is stuck, tap it with a soft-
faced hammer to jar it loose. Be prepared for
some coolant to spill as the gasket seal is
broken.
14Note how it’s fitted, then remove the
thermostat.
15Stuff a rag into the engine opening, then
remove all traces of old gasket material (if the
gasket is paper type). Otherwise, remove the
rubber O-ring (see illustration)and sealant
from the housing and cover with a gasket
scraper. Remove the rag from the opening
and clean the gasket mating surfaces.
16Fit the new thermostat and gasket in the
housing. Make sure the correct end faces out
- the spring end is normally directed towards
the engine.
17Refit the cover and bolts. Tighten the
bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
M40 engines
18Remove the cooling fan and timing belt
upper cover.
19Unscrew the hose clamp and detach thebottom hose from the elbow on the front of
the cylinder head.
20Unbolt the elbow from the cylinder head.
Note the fitted position of the thermostat, then
remove it (see illustrations). Remove the
rubber O-ring; a new one will be needed for
reassembly.
21Locate the thermostat in the cylinder head
in the same position as noted during removal
(arrow pointing upwards).
22Press a new O-ring in the groove, and
locate the elbow on the cylinder head. Tighten
the bolts.
23Connect the bottom hose to the elbow,
and tighten the hose clamp.
24Refit the upper timing belt cover and
cooling fan.
All models
25Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
26Connect the battery negative cable.
27Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks and proper thermostat operation (as
described earlier in this Section).
4 Radiator-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.Note: If the radiator is being removed because
it is leaking, note that minor leaks can often be
repaired without removing the radiator, using
a radiator sealant.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If
the coolant is relatively new, or in good
condition, save it and re-use it.
3Loosen the hose clamps, then detach the
hoses from the radiator (see illustrations). If
they’re stuck, grasp each hose near the end
with a pair of water pump pliers, twist gently
to break the seal, then pull off - be careful not
to distort or break the radiator outlets! If the
hoses are old or deteriorated, cut them off
and refit new ones.
4On M20 and M30 engines, disconnect the
reservoir hose from the radiator filler neck.
5Remove the screws or plastic fasteners that
attach the shroud to the radiator, and slide the
shroud towards the engine (see illustration).
On some engines it is possible to completely
remove the shroud.
6If the vehicle has automatic transmission,
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3
3.20b Removing the thermostat
(M40 engine)3.20a Removing the elbow from the
cylinder head (M40 engine)3.15 On M20 and M30 engine models,
after the housing and thermostat have
been removed, take the O-ring out of the
housing and clean the recess in the
housing to be sure of a good seal upon
reassembly
4.5 Plastic fastener retaining the radiator
shroud on some engines4.3b Bottom hose connection to the
radiator4.3a Disconnecting the top hose from the
radiator
3

M20 engine
9Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
ignition rotor and dust shield (see Chapter 1).
10Where applicable, remove the timing
sensor (see Chapter 5).
11Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Chapter 2A).
12Loosen all three water pump mounting
bolts. Remove the top and right-hand side
bolts, but DON’T remove the lower bolt (see
illustration).
13Rotate the pump downwards, and remove
the drivebelt tensioner spring and pin.
14 Remove the final water pump bolt, and
remove the pump.
Caution: Leave the tensioner bolt
tight. Be careful to not move the
camshaft gear, as damage can
occur if the valves are moved.
M30 engine
15Remove the engine lifting bracket.
16Remove the bolts that mount the water
pump to the engine block.
17Remove the water pump, and recover the
gasket.
M40 engine
18Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the water pump. If the pump is tight in the
cylinder head, insert two bolts in the special
lugs at the top and bottom of the pump, and
tighten them evenly to press the pump out of
the head (see illustrations).
Refitting
19Clean the bolt threads and the threaded
holes in the engine to remove corrosion and
sealant.
20Compare the new pump to the old one, to
make sure they’re identical.
21Remove all traces of old gasket material
from the engine with a gasket scraper.
22Clean the water pump mating surfaces.
23On the M40 engine, locate a new O-ring
on the pump (see illustration).
24Locate the gasket on the pump, and offer
the pump up to the engine (see illustration).
Slip a couple of bolts through the pump
mounting holes to hold the gasket in place.
25Carefully attach the pump and gasket to
the engine, threading the bolts into the holes
finger-tight.Note:On the M20 engine, refit the
lower bolt finger-tight, then rotate the water
pump into position with the drivebelt tensioner
spring and pin in position.
26Refit the remaining bolts (if they also hold
an accessory bracket in place, be sure to
reposition the bracket at this time). Tighten
them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications, in quarter-turn increments.
Don’t overtighten them, or the pump may be
distorted.
27Refit all parts removed for access to the
pump.
28Refill the cooling system and check the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1). Run the
engine and check for leaks.8 Coolant temperature sender
unit- check and renewal
2
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.
1The coolant temperature indicator system
is composed of a temperature gauge
mounted in the instrument panel, and a
coolant temperature sender unit that’s
normally mounted on the thermostat housing
(see illustration 3.11). Some vehicles have
more than one sender unit, but only one is
used for the temperature gauge. On the M40
engine, the sender unit is mounted on the left-
hand side of the cylinder head, towards the
rear.
2If the gauge reading is suspect, first check
the coolant level in the system. Make sure the
wiring between the gauge and the sending
unit is secure, and that all fuses are intact. (If
the fuel gauge reading is suspect as well, the
problem is almost certainly in the instrument
panel or its wiring.)
3Before testing the circuit, refer to the
relevant wiring diagrams (see Chapter 12).
Where the sender unit simply earths out the
circuit, test by earthing the wire connected to
the sending unit while the ignition is on (but
without the engine running, for safety). If the
gauge now deflects to the end of the scale,
renew the sender unit. If the gauge does not
respond satisfactorily, the gauge, or the wiring
to the gauge, is faulty. Where the sender unit
has two terminals, test the circuit by checking
the resistance of the unit. No figures were
available at the time of writing, but typically
readings of several hundred or several
thousand ohms (depending on temperature)
would be expected. A reading of zero (short-
circuit) or infinity (open-circuit) would indicate
a faulty sender unit.
Caution: Do not earth the wire
for more than a second or two, or
damage to the gauge could
occur.
3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
7.24 New outer gasket on the M40 engine
water pump7.23 Fit a new O-ring on the M40 engine
water pump
7.18b . . . and remove the water pump
(M40 engine)7.18a With the water pump mounting bolts
removed, screw two bolts into the special
lugs (one top and one bottom) . . .7.12 Water pump bolt locations on the
M20 engine

19Depressurise the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2).
20Detach the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
21Detach the fuel feed hose from the fuel
rail, and attach a fuel pressure gauge directly
to the hose. Note:If the tee fitting is still
connected to the gauge, be sure to plug the
open end.
22Reconnect the battery.
23Using a jumper wire, bridge the terminals
of the fuel pump relay.
24Turn the ignition switch on to operate the
fuel pump.
25Note the pressure reading on the gauge,
and compare the reading to the fuel pump
pressure listed in this Chapter’s Specifica-
tions.
26If the indicated pressure is less than
specified, inspect the fuel line for leaks
between the pump and gauge. If no leaks are
found, renew the fuel pump.
27Turn the ignition off and wait five minutes.
Note the reading on the gauge, and compare
it to the fuel pump hold pressure listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. If the hold pressure
is less than specified, check the fuel lines
between the pump and gauge for leaks. If no
leaks are found, renew the fuel pump.
28Remove the jumper wire. Relieve the fuel
pressure by opening the bleed valve on the
gauge and directing the fuel into a suitable
container. Remove the gauge and reconnect
the fuel line.
Transfer pump pressure check
29Depressurise the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2).
30Detach the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
31Remove the transfer pump access plate
(on some models, it’s located under the rear
seat cushion - on others, it’s located under
the carpet in the luggage compartment).
Disconnect the output hose from the transfer
pump, and connect a fuel pressure gauge to
the outlet pipe.
32Reconnect the battery.33Using a jumper wire, bridge the terminals
of the fuel pump relay.
34Turn the ignition switch on to operate the
fuel pump.
35Note the pressure reading on the gauge,
and compare to the value listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
36If the indicated pressure is less than
specified, renew the transfer pump.
Fuel pump relay check
37Switch on the ignition.
38Using a voltmeter, probe the following
terminals from the back of the relay electrical
connector. Check for battery voltage at
terminal 30 (M20 and M30 engines) or
terminal 15 (M10 and M40 engines). Note:If
there is no voltage on models with luggage
compartment-mounted batteries, check for a
faulty fusible link. The 50-amp link is about
6 inches from the battery, in a black wire.
39Turn the ignition off, and disconnect the
relay from the electrical connector. Using a
voltmeter, probe the connector terminals that
correspond to fuel pump relay pins 85 (-) and
86(+) on M20 and M30 engines, or terminal 50
and earth on M10 and M40 engines. Have an
assistant turn the engine over on the starter,
and observe the voltage reading. Battery
voltage should be indicated.
40If there is no voltage, check the fuse(s)
and the wiring circuit for the fuel pump relay. If
the voltage readings are correct, and the fuel
pump only runs with the jumper wire in place,
then renew the relay.
41If the fuel pump still does not run, check
for the proper voltage at the fuel pump
terminals (see Section 4). If necessary, renew
the fuel pump.
4 Fuel pump, transfer pump
and fuel level sender unit-
removal and refitting
2
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Also, don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance with a pilot light is present.
Fuel pump (carburettor engines)
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Disconnect both hoses from the pump, and
unscrew and remove the two securing nuts
(see illustration).
2Carefully withdraw the pump from the
cylinder head. If it’s stuck, a slight downward
tap on the thick insulating distance piece with
a piece of wood, should free it.
3Remove the two thin gaskets.
4The fuel pump is a sealed unit, and it is not
possible to renew any of the internal
components. Should an internal fault occur, it
must be renewed complete.5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but renew the thin gaskets each
side of the insulating distance piece, and
tighten the fuel pump down evenly to the
torque stated in the Specifications. On no
account alter the thickness of the distance
piece, or the correct operation of the fuel
pump will be upset.
Fuel pump (fuel injection
engines)
Note 1: The electric fuel pump is located
inside the fuel tank on later models with the
Motronic system, or adjacent to the fuel tank
on the L-Jetronic system. The early models
are also equipped with a transfer pump
located in the fuel tank. The transfer pump
feeds the larger main pump, which delivers
the high pressure required for proper fuel
system operation.
Note 2: The fuel level sender unit is located in
the fuel tank with the transfer pump on early
models, or with the main fuel pump on later
models.
6Depressurise the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2) and remove the fuel tank filler cap to
relieve pressure in the tank.
7Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Externally-mounted fuel pump
8Raise and support the vehicle.
9Remove the two rubber boots that protect
the fuel pump connectors, and disconnect the
wires from the pump (see illustration).
10Using hose clamps, pinch shut the fuel
hoses on each side of the fuel pump. If you
don’t have any hose clamps, wrap the hoses
with rags, and clamp them shut with self-
locking pliers, tightened just enough to
prevent fuel from flowing out.
11Disconnect the hoses from the pump.
12Remove the fuel pump mounting screws
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4.1 Fuel pump on carburettor engines
4

REF•8General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of legis-
lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

REF•10Fault Finding
Engine will not rotate when attempting to start
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1).
m mAutomatic transmission not completely engaged in Park (Chap-
ter 7B) or (on models with a clutch switch) clutch not completely
depressed (Chapter 8).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapters 5 and 12).
m mStarter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear (Chapter 5).
m mStarter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor faulty (Chapter 5).
m mIgnition switch faulty (Chapter 12).
m mStarter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).
m mEngine internal problem (Chapter 2B).
Engine rotates, but will not start
m
mFuel tank empty.
m mBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mLeaking fuel injector(s), faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel not reaching fuel injection system or carburettor (Chapter 4).
m mIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapter 5).
m mFuel injector stuck open (Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m mLoose distributor mounting bolts causing ignition timing to wander
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil, or faulty
coil (Chapter 5).
Engine hard to start when cold
m mBattery discharged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel system malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mInjector(s) leaking or carburettor automatic choke faulty (Chap-
ter 4).
m mDistributor rotor carbon-tracked (Chapter 5).
Engine hard to start when hot
m
mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel not reaching the fuel injection system or carburettor (Chap-
ter 4).
m mCorroded battery connections, especially earth (negative)
connection (Chapter 1).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
m mPinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
mLoose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or
alternator (Chapter 5).
m mInsufficient fuel reaching the fuel injector(s) or carburettor
(Chapters 1 and 4).
m mDamaged fuel injection system speed sensors (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty fuel injection relays (Chapter 5).
Oil puddle under engine
m
mOil sump gasket and/or sump drain plug seal leaking (Chapter 2).
m mOil pressure sender unit leaking (Chapter 2).
m mValve cover gaskets leaking (Chapter 2).
m mEngine oil seals leaking (Chapter 2).
Engine idles erratically
m
mVacuum leakage (Chapter 4).
m mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system
or carburettor (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mTiming belt/chain and/or sprockets worn (Chapter 2).
m mCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
m mFaulty charcoal canister, where fitted (Chapter 6). This Section provides an easy-reference guide to the more
common problems which may occur during the operation of your
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under
headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. They also refer you to the Chapter and/or
Section which deals with the problem.
Remember that successful fault diagnosis is not a mysterious
black art practised only by professional mechanics. It is simply the
result of the right knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic
approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination,
starting with the simplest solution and working through to the mostcomplex - and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the fuel
tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don’t assume that you are
exempt from such oversights.
Finally, always establish a clear idea of why a problem has
occurred, and take steps to ensure that it doesn’t happen again. If the
electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other
connections in the system to make sure that they don’t fail as well. If a
particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don’t just renew one
fuse after another. Remember, failure of a small component can often
be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more
important component or system.
Engine

REF•12Fault Finding
Fuel system
Excessive fuel consumption
m mDirty or clogged air filter element (Chapter 1).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mEmissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mFuel injection internal parts or carburettor jets excessively worn or
damaged (Chapter 4).
m mLow tyre pressure or incorrect tyre size (Chapter 1).
m mUnsympathetic driving style, or unfavourable conditions.
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Warning: Don’t drive the vehicle if a fuel leak is
suspected. Leaking fuel in the engine compartment
could catch fire.
m mLeak in a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 4).
m mTank overfilled.
m mFuel injector or carburettor parts excessively worn, or fuel system
gaskets leaking (Chapter 4).
Cooling system
Overheating
m mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mWater pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator matrix blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter 3).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
Overcooling
m
mFaulty thermostat (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated/damaged hoses; loose clamps (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mWater pump seal defective (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mLeakage from radiator matrix, heater matrix or header tank
(Chapter 3).
m mRadiator/engine block drain plugs or water jacket core plugs
leaking (Chapters 2 and 3).
Internal coolant leakage
m mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mCracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter 2).
Coolant loss
m
mToo much coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mCoolant boiling away because of overheating (see above).
m mInternal or external leakage (see above).
m mFaulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).
Poor coolant circulation
m
mInoperative water pump (Chapter 3).
m mRestriction in cooling system (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mWater pump drivebelt defective/out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat sticking (Chapter 3).
Clutch
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
m mMaster or slave cylinder faulty (Chapter 8).
m mFluid line burst or leaking (Chapter 8).
m mConnections leaking (Chapter 8).
m mNo fluid in reservoir (Chapter 1).
m mIf fluid is present in master cylinder dust cover, master cylinder rear
seal has failed (Chapter 8).
m mBroken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).
Fluid in area of master cylinder dust cover, and on
pedal
m mRear seal failure in master cylinder (Chapter 8).
Fluid on slave cylinder
m
mSlave cylinder plunger seal faulty (Chapter 8).
Pedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m
mAir in system (Chapter 8).
Unable to select gears
m
mFaulty transmission (Chapter 7).
m mFaulty clutch plate (Chapter 8).
m mFork and bearing not assembled properly (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty pressure plate (Chapter 8).
m mPressure plate-to-flywheel bolts loose (Chapter 8).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no
increase in vehicle speed)
m mClutch plate worn (Chapter 8).
m mClutch plate is oil-soaked by leaking rear main seal (Chapter 8).
m mWarped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).
m mWeak diaphragm spring (Chapter 8).
m mClutch plate overheated.
Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged
m
mOil on clutch plate lining, burned or glazed facings (Chapter 8).
m mWorn or loose engine or transmission mountings (Chapters 2
and 7A).
m mWorn splines on clutch plate hub (Chapter 8).
m mWarped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).
Noise in clutch area
m
mFork improperly fitted (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty release bearing (Chapter 8).
Clutch pedal stays on floor
m
mFork binding in housing (Chapter 8).
m mBroken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).
High pedal effort
m
mFork binding in housing (Chapter 8).
m mPressure plate faulty (Chapter 8).
m mIncorrect-size master or slave cylinder fitted (Chapter 8).

REF•22Glossary of Technical Terms
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.
EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
FFan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the sideelectrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
Exhaust manifold
Feeler blade
Adjusting spark plug gap
Gasket
EGR valve

REF•23
REF
Glossary of Technical Terms
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful tothe ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
RotorIn a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
RunoutThe amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
SSealantA liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lampAn older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebeltA single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
ShimThin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammerA special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
SprocketA tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switchOn vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage

REF•26Index
E
Earth check - 12•2
Electric fan - 3•4
Electric shock - 0•5
Electric windows - 12•9
Electrical equipment - REF•2
Electrical system fault finding - 12•1
Electronic control system - 4•3, 4•14
Electronic control unit (ECU) - 6•1
Engine fault finding - REF•10
Engine tune-up - 1•7
Engine electrical systems- 5•1et seq
Engine electrical systems fault finding -
REF•11
Engine management and emission control
systems- 6•1et seq
Engine oil - 1•3, 1•7, 1•11
Environmental considerations - REF•8
Evaporative emissions control (EVAP)
system - 1•26, 6•5
Evaporator - 3•10
Exhaust emission checks - REF•4
Exhaust manifold - 2A•6
Exhaust system - 1•21, 4•20, REF•3
F
Fan - 3•4, 3•5
Fault finding- REF•9et seq
Fault finding - automatic transmission -
7B•2, REF•13
Fault finding - braking system - REF•14
Fault finding - clutch - REF•12
Fault finding - cooling system - REF•12
Fault finding - electrical system - 12•1,
REF•11
Fault finding - engine - REF•10
Fault finding - fuel system - 4•21, REF•12
Fault finding - manual transmission -
REF•13
Fault finding - suspension and steering -
REF•15
Filling - 11•3
Final drive - 8•2, 8•10, 8•11
Final drive oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•26
Fire - 0•5
Flexible coupling - 8•7
Fluid level checks - 1•7
Fluid seals - 7B•5
Flywheel - 2A•18
Fuel and exhaust systems- 1•20, 4•1et
seq,REF•4
Fuel system fault finding - REF•12
Fuel filter - 1•25
Fuel hoses - 1•14
Fuel injection system - 4•3, 4•14
Fuel injection system - fault finding - 4•21
Fuel injectors - 4•18
Fuel level sender unit - 4•5, 4•6
Fuel lines and fittings - 4•7
Fuel pressure - 4•3
Fuel pressure regulator - 4•16
Fuel pump - 4•3, 4•4, 4•5
Fuel tank - 4•7, 4•8
Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5
Fuses - 12•2
G
Gaiters - 1•22, 8•9, 10•13
Gashes in bodywork - 11•2
Gaskets - REF•8
Gear lever - 7A•1
Gearbox - SeeManual transmission
Gearbox oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
General engine overhaul procedures-
2B•1et seq
Glass - 11•4, 11•8
Glossary of technical terms - REF•20
Grille - 11•4
H
Handbrake - 1•23, 9•2, 9•12, REF•1
Handbrake fault - REF•14
Handles - 11•8
Hazard warning flasher - 12•2
HC emissions - REF•4
Headlights - 12•3, 12•5, 12•6
Heated rear window - 12•8
Heater - 3•2, 3•7, 3•8
Hinges - 11•4
HT leads - 1•18
Hubs - 10•8, 10•11, REF•3
Hydraulic servo - 9•11
Hydraulic tappets - 2B•11
Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5
I
Idle air stabiliser valve - 4•18
Idle speed adjustment - 1•15
Ignition coil - 5•5
Ignition control unit - 5•6, 5•7
Ignition sensors - 5•8
Ignition switch - 12•3
Ignition system - 5•3
Ignition timing - 5•4
Ignition timing sensors - 6•4
Impulse generator - 5•6, 5•7
In-car engine repair procedures- 2A•1et
seq
Indicators - 12•2, 12•3
Information sensors - 6•2
Injectors - 4•18
Input shaft - 7A•2
Instrument cluster - 12•4
Instrument panel language display - 0•7
Intake manifold - 2A•4
Intermediate shaft - 2A•12, 2B•14, 2B•19
Introduction to the BMW 3- and 5-Series -
0•4
J
Jacking - 0•8
Joint mating faces - REF•8
Jump starting - 0•9
K
Kickdown cable - 7B•3
L
L-Jetronic fuel injection system - 4•14,
4•19
Language display - 0•7
Latch - 11•8
Leaks - 0•10, 7B•3, REF•12, REF•13
Locknuts, locktabs and washers - REF•8
Locks - 11•4, 11•8
Lubricants - REF•18
M
Main bearings - 2B•17, 2B•19
Manifolds - 2A•4, 2A•6
Manual transmission- 7A•1et seq
Manual transmission fault finding - REF•13
Manual transmission oil - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
Master cylinder - 8•3, 9•9
Mechanical fan - 3•4, 3•5
Mirrors - 11•8, REF•1
Misfire - REF•11
Mixture - REF•4
MOT test checks- REF•1 et seq
Motronic engine management system -
6•1
Motronic fuel injection system - 4•14, 4•19
Mountings - 2A•19, 7A•3
O
Oil - differential - 1•19, 1•26
Oil - engine - 1•3, 1•7, 1•11
Oil - final drive - 1•3
Oil - manual transmission - 1•3, 1•19, 1•25
Oil filter - 1•11, 1•12
Oil pump - 2A•16
Oil seals - 2A•12, 2A•13, 2A•19, 2B•20,
7A•2, 7B•5, 8•10, 8•12, REF•8
Open-circuit - 12•2
Output shaft - 7A•2, 7B•5
Overcooling - REF•12
Overheating - REF•12
Oxygen sensor - 6•2
P
Pads - 9•2, 9•3
Pedals - 8•3, 9•13
Pinion oil - 8•12
Pinking - REF•11
Piston rings - 2B•18
Pistons - 2B•12, 2B•16, 2B•21
Plastic components - 11•3
Poisonous or irritant substances - 0•5
Position sensors - 5•8
Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV)
system - 6•4
Power steering - 1•14, 10•15, 10•16
Power steering fluid - 1•12
Propeller shaft - 8•2, 8•6, 8•8
Pulse sensor - 5•8
Purge valve - 6•5