lock BMW 318i 1995 E36 Repair Manual

7
.
Unbolt
timing
chain
casefrom
frontof
engine
.
See
Fig
.
13
.



9
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.

Fig
.
13
.
Timing
chain
case
mounting
bolts
(arrows)
on
M44
engine
.

8
.
Remove
cover
from
oil
pump
on
rear
of
timing
chain

case
.
See
Fig
.
14
.
Inspect
oil
pump
gears
and
oil
pump

cavity
in
timing
chain
case
for
wear
andlor
scoring
.

Fig
.
14
.
Oil
pump
cover
mounting
bolts
(arrows)
on
M44
engine
.

LUBRICATION
SYSTEM



119-
9

"
Replace
al¡
gaskets
and
O-rings
.
"
Install
a
new
rubber
sea¡
(profile
gasket)
between
top
of
timing
chain
case
and
cylinder
head
.

"
Be
sure
to
thoroughly
clean
sealing
surfaces
.
-Use
3-Bond
1209
orequivalent
sealant
on
both
sides

of
sea¡
before
installing
.

10
.
Protect
profile
gasket
using
thin
sheet
metal
(BMW
special
tool
no
.
11
2
330)
when
installing
timing
chain

case
.
See
Fig
.
15
.

"
Applya
thin
coating
of
grease
to
both
sides
of
sheet
metal
tool
and
to
top
surface
of
profile
gasket
.

"
Placesheet
metal
between
gasket
and
cylinder
head

and
carefully
slíde
upper
chain
cover
into
position
.

"
Tighten
al¡
mounting
bolts
and
then
carefully
withdraw

sheet
metal
.
Install
timing
chain
as
described
in
117

Camshaft
Timing
Chain
.

Fig
.
15
.
Use
thin
sheetmetal
(arrow)
toprotect
profile
gasket
during
installation
of
timing
chain
case
.
Carefully
withdraw
sheetmetal
after
tightening
fasteners
.

Tightening
Torques

"
Timing
chain
case
to
engine
block

M6
..
.
...
...
.
..
.............
.
.10
Nm
(7
.5
ft-Ib)

M8
........
.
..
..
..............
22
Nm
(16
ft-Ib)

"
Thermostathousing
to
upper

timing
chain
cover(M6)
............
10
Nm
(89
in-lb)

"
OH
filter
cover

to
oil
filter
housing
(M8)
.
.
.........
25
Nm
(18
ft-lb)

"
Oil
pump
cover
to
timing
chain
case
(M6)
...
..
.......
10
Nm
(89
in-lb)

"
Oil
pan
to
engine
block
(M6
bolt)

8
.8
grade
.........
.
.
..
.........
10
Nm
(89
in-lb)

10
.9
grade
............
.
.......
12
Nm
(106
in-lb)

"
Alternator
to
alternator
bracket
.....
43
Nm
(32
ft-Ib)

OIL
PUMP

119-
1
0



LUBRICATION
SYSTEM

Oil
pump,
removing
and
installing

(6-cylinder
engine)

Oil
pressure
on
the
6-cylinder
engines
is
generated
by
a
gear-type
pump
bolted
to
the
bottom
of
the
engine
block
.
The
oil
pump
is
chain
driven
off
the
front
of
the
crankshaft
.

NOTE-

Oil
pump
removal
requires
raising
the
engine
(cars
built
up
to
9-92)
or
lowering
the
front
suspension
crossmem-
ber
(cars
built
from
9-92)
to
remove
the
oil
pan
.

1.
Drain
oil
as
described
in
020
Maintenance
Program
.

2
.
Remove
oil
pan
as
described
earlier
.

3
.
Remove
oil
pump
sprocket
mounting
nut
(left-hand
thread)
.
See
Fig
.
16
.
Lift
sprocket
off
together
with
drive
chain
.

Fig
.
16
.
Oil
pump
sprocket
mounting
nut
(left-hand
thread)
on
6-cylin-
der
engine
(arrow)
.

4
.
Remove
mounting
bolts
from
oil
pump
and
oil
pump
pickup
tube
.
Withdraw
pump
.

NOTE-

Note
any
spacers
between
pump
and
engine
block
.
See
Fig
.
17
.

"
Note
position
of
locating
dowels
.

OIL
PUMP

811186

0011952

Fig
.
17
.
Oil
pump
mounting
points
(1)
and
pickup
tube
mountíng
points
(2)
.

5
.
Remove
coverfrom
oil
pump
and
check
for
wear
or
scoring
.
Spin
oil
pump
shaft
and
check
that
gears
turn
smoothly
.
Replace
pump
if
gears
spinwith
difficulty
or
any
wear
is
present
.

6
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal,
noting
the
following
:

"
Align
sprocket
splines
to
oil
pump
shaft
splines
before

tightening
sprocket
nut
.

Tightening
Torques

"
Oil
pump
to
engine
block
(M8)
......
22
Nm
(16
ft-Ib)

"
Oil
pan
to
engine
block
(M6
bolt)

8
.8
grade
..
...
.
...
...
.
.........
10
Nm
(89
in-lb)

10
.9
grade
.
...
.
..
....
.
........
12
Nm
(106
in-lb)

"
Oil
pump
sprocket
to
oil
pump
shaft
(M1
0x1
left-hand
thread)
..........
25
Nm
(18
ft-Ib)

CAUTION
-

The
wiring
to
termina¡
15
(+)
of
the
coil(vía
the
ig-

nition
switch)
is
not
fuse
protected
.
Use
care
when
testíng
thiscircuit
.

4
.
Turn
ignition
off
.

5
.
Use
a
multimeter
to
test
coil
primary
resistanceat
coil

terminals
.
See
Table
d
.

Table
d
.
Ignition
Coil
Resistance

(6-cylinder
Engine)

Terminals
Resistance

(referto
Fig
.
4
.)

Coil
primary



1
1
(-)
and
15
(+)



X
0
.4-0
.8
ohms

Coil
secondary



l
N
.A
.



N
.A
.

6
.
Remove
coil
and
inspect
coil
housing
for
hairline
cracks

or
leaking
casting
material
.
See
Fig
.
7
.
A
leaky
ignition

coil
may
indícate
a
faulty
engine
control
module
(ECM)
.

Check
ECM
before
installing
a
new
coil
.

811004

Fig
.
7
.



Ignition
coil
being
removed
on
6-cylinder
engine
(M52
engine

shown)
.

CA
UTION-

"
Note
location
of
coil
ground
straps
before
coilre-

moval
;
reinstallin
the
same
location
.

"
When
replacing
ignition
coils,
ensure
that
the
re-

placement
coil(s)
are
from
the
same
manufactur-

er
containing
the
same
partlcode
numbers
.
If

individual
coils
with
the
correct
specifications
are
not
available,
all
coils
should
be
replaced
.

IGNITION
SYSTEM



120-
5

Crankshaft
Position/rpm
Sensor

If
the
engine
control
module
(ECM)
does
not
receive
a

crankshaft
position
signal
during
cranking,
the
engine
will
not

start
.

On
1992-1995(pre-OBD
II)
cars,
the
crankshaft
posi-
tion/rpm
sensor
is
mounted
on
the
front
engine
cover
and

reads
the
toothed
vibration
dampener
wheel
.
See
Fig
.
8
.

Fig
.
8
.



Crankshaft
position/rpm
sensor
mounted
at
front
of
engine
on
1992-1995
cars
.
(arrow)
.

On
1996
and
latee
cars
(OBD
II
compliant),
the
crankshaft
position/rpm
sensor
is
mounted
in
the
left
rear
side
of
the
cyl-

inderblock
.
The
sensor
reads
a
toothed
wheel
mounted
to
the

end
of
the
crankshaft
.
See
Fig
.
9
.

Fig
.
9
.



Crankshaft
position/rpm
sensor
toothed
wheel
mounted
to

rear
of
crankshaft
OBD
II
compliant
cars
.
The
sensor
is

mounted
in
the
left
rear
side
of
the
cylinder
block
.

IGNITION
SYSTEM
SERVICE

120-
6



IGNITION
SYSTEM

Crankshaft
position/rpm
sensor,

testing
and
replacing
(front
mounted)

1
.
Disconnect
sensor
harness
connector
.

2
.
Using
a
digital
multimeter,
check
resistance
between
terminals
1
and
2
in
connector
.
See
Fig
.
10
.

n1
n2n3

Fig
.
10
.
Crankshaft
position/rpm
sensorconnector
.

Crankshaft
positionlrpm
sensor
specifications

"
Coil
resistance
(approx
.)
terminais
1
and
2
....
.
..
...
....
1280
±
10%
ohms

"
Air
gap
(sensor
distance
from
toothed
wheel)
..
.
.
........
.1
.0
±
0
.3
mm
(0
.04
±
0
.01
in
.)

3
.
If
the
resistance
is
not
correct,
the
sensor
is
faulty
and
should
be
replaced
.

NOTE
-

When
installing
the
new
sensor,
be
sure
thewiring
Is
rerouted
in
the
same
orientation
.
Secure
the
sensor
us-
ing
new
wire
ties
.

Tightening
Torque

"
Crankshaft
position/rpm
sensor
to
mounting
bracket
.........
.
.
5
t
1
Nm
(62
t
9
in-lb)

Crankshaft
position/rpm
sensor,



4
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.
Use
a
new
O-ring
replacing
(rear
mounted)



when
installing
sensor
.
Be
sure
wiring
is
rerouted
in
same
orientation
.
1
.
Disconnect
sensor
harness
connector
.

6502AGN56

2
.
Locatesensor
on
rear
left
sideof
cylinder
block
.
Re-
move
sensormounting
bolt
and
remove
sensorfrom
cylinder
block
.

IGNITION
SYSTEM
SERVICE

3
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.
Use
a
new
O-ring

when
installing
sensor
.
Be
sure
wiring
is
rerouted
in
same
orientation
.
Secure
sensor
using
new
wire
ties
.

NOTE-

It
may
be
easier
to
remove
the
sensor
working
from
the
underside
of
the
vehicle
.

Camshaft
Position
(CMP)
Sensor

The
camshaft
position
(CMP)
sensor
is
usedby
the
engine
management
system
for
sequential
fuel
injection
and
knock
control
.

Camshaft
position
(CMP)
sensor,

replacing
(4-cylinder
engine)

1
.
Remove
CMP
sensorfromtop
timing
cover,
just
above
coolantthermostat
housing
.
See
Fig
.
11
.

Fig
.
11
.
Camshaft
position
sensor
mounting
bolt
(arrow)
.
M42
engine
shown
.

2
.
On
M42
engines
to
9/93
:
Disconnect
CMP
harness
plug
just
above
oil
filter
housing
.

3
.
On
M42
from9/93
and
all
M44
engines
:
Remove
upper
intake
manifold
as
described
in
113
Cylinder
Head
Re-
moval
and
Installation
.
Then
unplug
CMP
sensor
har-
ness
connector
below
manifold
.

Camshaft
position
(CMP)
sensor,

replacing
(6-cylinder
engine)

1
.
Remove
plastic
cover
from
above
fuel
injectors
.

2
.
Disconnect
harness
connector
from
VANOS
solenoid

and
unscrew
solenoid
from
VANOS
control
unit
.
Re-



"
Clean
contactsurface
on
engine
block
before
fnstall

move
oil
supply
line
from
VANOS
control
unit
.
See
117



ing
knock
sensors
.

Camshaft
Timing
Chain
.

3
.
Remove
camshaft
position
(CMP)
sensor
from
left
frontof

cylinder
head,
next
to
top
of
oil
filter
housing
.



"
Knock
sensor
to
cylinder
block
....
20
Nm
(15
ft
.
lbs
.)

4
.
Disconnect
CMP
sensor
harnessfrom
under
intake

manifold
.

5
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.
Use
a
new
O-ring

when
installing
sensor
.
Be
sure
wiring
is
rerouted
in

same
orientation
.

Tightening
Torques

"
CMP
sensor
to
cylinder
head
....
.
.
..
5
Nm
(3
.5
ft-Ib)

"
VANOS
oil
supply
pipe
to

VANOS
control
unit
...........
.
..
32
Nm
(24
ft-Ib)

"
VANOS
solenoid
to
VANOS

control
unit
...
.
.................
30
Nm
(22
ft-Ib)

Knock
sensors,
replacing

Knock
sensors
are
usedon
engines
with
Bosch
DME
M1
.7,

Bosch
DME
M3
.3
.1,
Bosch
DME
M5
.2,
and
Siemens
MS
41
.1

engine
management
systems
.
The
knocksensors
are
bolted
to
the
left
sideof
the
cylinder
block
and
monitor
the
combus-

tion
chamber
for
engine-damaging
knock
.
If
engine
knock
is

detected,
the
ignition
point
is
retarded
accordingly
via
the
en-

gine
control
module
.

CA
UTION-

"
Label
knock
sensorharness
connectors
before

disconnecting
them
.
The
connectors
must
not
be

interchanged
.
Engine
damage
may
result
if
the
sensors
are
monitoring
the
wrong
cytinders
.

"
Note
the
installed
angle
of
the
knock
sensoron
the

block
before
removing
it
.
Reinstall
the
sensor
in

the
same
position
.
Be
sure
to
usea
torque
wrench

when
tightening
the
sensormounting
bola

NOTE
-

"
On
M52
engines,
a
single
harness
connects
the
twosensors
to
the
main
harness
connector
.
The
shorter
cable
lead
fs
for
the
knock
sensor
for
cytinders
4,
5,
and
6
.

Tightening
Torque

IGNITION
SYSTEM



120-
7

0012730

Fig
.
12
.
Knock
sensor
mounting
bolt
on
front
left
side
of
cylinder

block
.

NOTE-

Knock
sensor
function
Is
monitoredby
the
On-Board
Diagnostic
system
.
If
a
knock
sensor
is
detected
to
be
faulty,
an
appropriatediagnostic
trouble
code
(DTC)
may
be
stored
in
memory
.
See
100
Engine-General
for
information
on
retrieving
DTCs
.

On
6-cylinder
engines,
the
knock
sensors
are
accessible
af-
ter
removing
the
intake
manifold
.
On
4-cylinder
engines,
the

upper
section
of
the
intake
manifold
should
be
removed
to
ac-

cess
the
sensors
.
See
Fig
.
12
.
NOTE-

Intakemanifold
removal
and
installation
procedures
are



"
Cylinder
no
.
1is
at
the
front
of
the
engine
.

covered
in
113
Cylinder
HeadRemoval
and
Installation
.

Ignition
Firing
Order

Ignition
Firing
Order

"
4-cylinder
engines
.....
..
...
.
..........
.1-3-4-2

"
6-cylinder
engines
...........
..
.
.
..
..
1-5-3-6-2-4

IGNITION
SYSTEM
SCHEMATICS

Fig
.
13
through
Fig
.
17
show
ignition
system
schematics

usedon
the
enginescoveredby
this
manual
.

IGNITION
SYSTEM
SCHEMATICS

121-2



BATTERY,
STARTER,
ALTERNATOR

CHARGING
SYSTEM
TROUBLESHOOTING



Static
currentdraw,
checking

Charging
system
diagnostics
requires
special
test
equip-

ment
.
If
the
test
equipment
is
not
available,
charging
system

fault
diagnosis
can
be
performedby
an
authorized
BMW
deal-

eror
other
qualified
repair
shop
.
A
general
troubleshooting

guide
is
given
in
Table
a
.

Charging
System
Quick-Check

As
a
quick-check,
use
a
digital
multimeter
lo
measure
volt-



2
.
Disconnect
battery
negative
(-)
cable
.

age
across
the
battery
terminals
with
the
key
off
and
then

again
with
the
engine
running
.
The
battery
voltage
should
be



CAUTION-
about12
.6
volts
with
key
off
and
approximately
14
.0
volts
with



Prior
to
disconnecting
the
battery,
read
the
battery
the
engine
running
.
If
the
voltage
does
not
increase
when
the



disconnection
cautions
given
at
the
front
of
this
engine
is
running,there
is
a
fault
in
the
charging
system
.



manual
onpaga
viii
.

NOTE
-

The
regulated
voltage
(engine
running)
should
be
be-
tween
13
.5
and
14
.5,
depending
on
temperatura
and
operating
conditions
.
If
the
voltage
is
higher
than
14
.8,
the
voltage
regulator
is
most
Mely
faulty
.

Check
for
clean
and
tight
battery
cables
.
Check
the
ground

cable
running
from
the
negative
(-)
battery
terminal
lo
the

chassis
and
the
ground
cable
running
from
the
engine
lo
the

chassis
.
Check
the
alternator
drive
belt
condition
and
tension
.

If
the
battery
discharges
over
time,
there
may
be
a
constant

drain
or
current
draw
on
the
battery
.
A
small
static
drain
on
the

battery
is
normal,
but
a
largedrain
will
cause
the
battery
lo

quickly
discharge
.
Make
a
static
current
draw
test
asthe
first

step
when
experiencing
battery
discharge
.

1
.
Make
sure
ignition
and
al¡
electrical
accessories
are

switched
off
.

3
.
Connect
a
digital
ammeter
between
negative
battery

post
and
negative
battery
cable
lo
measure
current
.

See
Fig
.
1
.
Wait
at
least
one
minuta
lo
get
an
accurate

reading
.

A
range
of
about
0
lo
100
milliamps
is
normal,
dependingon

the
number
of
accessories
that
need
constant
power
.
A
current

of
400
milliamps
(0.4
amp)
or
more
may
indicate
a
problem
.

Table
a
.
Battery,
Starter
and
Charging
System
Troubleshooting

Symptom



1



Probable
Cause



1



Correctiva
Action

1
.
Engine
cranks
slowlyor
not



a
.
Battery
cables
loose,
dirty
orcor-



a
.
Clean
or
replace
cables
.
See020
Maintenance
Program
.
a
tall,
solenoíd
clicks
when



roded
.
starter
is
operated
.



b
.
Battery
discharged
.



b
.
Charge
battery,
test
and
replace
if
necessary
.
c
.
Body
ground
straploose,
dirty
or



c
.
Inspect
ground
strap,
clean,
tighten
or
replace
if
necessary
.
corroded
.
d
.
Poor
connection
at
starter
motor



d
.
Check
connections,
test
for
voltage
at
starter
.
Test
for
voltage
at
terminal
30
.



neutral
safety
or
clutch
interlock
switch
.
e
.
Starter
motor
or
solenoid
faulty
.



e
.
Test
starter
.

2
.
Battery
will
not
stay



a
.
Short
circuit
draining
the
battery
.



a
.
Test
for
excessive
current
drainwith
everything
electrical
in
the
charged
more
than
a
few



vehicle
off
.
days
.



b
.
Short
driving
trips
and
high
elec-



b
.
Evaluate
driving
style
.
Where
possible,
reduce
electrical
con
trical
drain
on
charging
system



sumption
when
making
short
trips
.
does
not
allow
battery
to
re-
charge
.
c
.
Drive
belt(s)
worn
or
damaged
.



c
.
Inspect
or
replace
multi-ribbed
belt(s)
.
See
020
Maintenance
Program
.
d
.
Battery
faulty
.



d
.
Test
battery
and
replace
íf
necessary
.
e
.
Battery
cables
loose,
dirty
orcor-



e
.
Clean
or
replace
cables
.
See
020
Maintenance
Program
.
rodad
.
f
.
Alternatoror
voltage
regulator



f
.
Test
alternator
and
voltage
regulator
.
faulty
.

3
.
Battery
losing
water
.



1
a
.
Battery
overcharging
.



1
a
.
Test
voltage
regulator
for
proper
operation
.

4
.
Lights
dim,
light
intensity



a
.
Drive
belt(s)
worn
or
damaged
.



a
.
Inspect
or
replace
multi-ribbed
belt(s)
.
See
020
Maintenance
varies
with
engine
speed
.



Program
.
b
.
Alternatoror
voltage
regulator



b
.
Test
alternator
and
voltage
regulator
.
faulty
.
c
.
Body
ground
straps
loose,
dirty
or



c
.
Inspect
ground
straps,
clean,
tighten
or
replace
as
necessary
.
corroded
.

CHARGING
SYSTEM
TROUBLESHOOTING

121-
6



BATTERY
STARTER,
ALTERNATOR

Alternator,
removing
and
installing

(6-cylinder
engine)

A
replacement
alternator
should
have
the
same
rating
as

the
original
.
Alternator
manufacturer
and
ampere
rating
are

normally
marked
on
the
alternator
housing
.

1
.
Disconnect
negative
(-)
battery
cable
.

CAUTION-

Prior
to
disconnectiog
the
battery,
read
the
battery
disconnection
cautions
given
at
the
front
of
this
manual
onpage
viii
.

2
.
Remove
alternator
cooling
duct
and
air
filter
housing

assembly
from
car
.
Disconnect
wiring
from
rear
of
alter-

nator
.

3
.
Remove
radiator
cooling
fan
and
fan
shroud
.
See
170

Radiator
and
Cooling
System
.

4
.
Remove
alternator
drive
belt
from
alternator
pulley
.
On

engines
with
hydraulic
belt
tensioner,
remove
tensioner

idler
pulley
(upper
roller)
from
alternator
bracket
.
See

Fig
.
5
.

ALTERNATOR
SERVICE

Fig
.
5
.



Pry
off
cover
from
tensioner
and
then
lever
tensioner
clock-
wise
to
release
belt
tension
.
Remove
upper
roller
(A)
once
belt
ís
removed
.

NOTE-

If
reusing
drive
belt,
mark
direction
of
rotation
on
belt

before
removing
.

5
.
Remove
upper
and
lower
mounting
bolts
and
lift
out
al-

ternator
.

6
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.
Note
locating
notches
on
tensioner
idler
pulley
(upper
roller)
alternator
brack-

et
when
installing
pulley
.

Tightening
Torques

"
D+
wire
to
alternator
(M6
nut)
.......
7
Nm
(53
in-lb)

"
B+
wireto
alternator
(M8
nut)
.......
13
Nm
(10
ft-Ib)

"
Pulley
to
alternator
(M16
nut)
.......
60
Nm
(44
ft-Ib)

Voltage
regulator,
removing
and
installing

1
.
Disconnect
negative
(-)
cable
from
battery
.

NOTE-



2
.
Remove
alternator
as
described
earlier
.

The
radiator
cooling
fan
nut
(32
mm
wrench)has
left-
hand
threads
.



3
.
Remove
cooling
duct
from
rear
of
alternator
.
See
Fig
.
6
.

Alternator

.
.g-



p~
J

-..
.

Fig
.
6
.



Alternator
assemblyand
related
parts
.

Cooling
duct

0012524

4
.
Remove
voltage
regulator
mounting
screws
and
re-

move
regulator
from
alternator
.

5
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.
Clean
brush
contact

surfaces
in
alternator
and
check
brush
length
asde-

scribed
later
.

Alternator
brushes,



STARTER
SERVICE
inspecting
and
replacing

Regulator
brushesarenot
available
as
replacement
parts
from
BMW
.
Replacement
brushes
may
be
available
from
af-

termarket
sources,
however
.

1
.
Remove
voltage
regulator
as
described
above
.

2
.
Clean
brush
contact
sürfaces
and
measure
brush
pro-trusion
.
See
Fig
.
7
.

Check
for
battery
voltage
at
terminal
50
of
the
starter
motor
Fig
.
7
.



Regulator
brush
protrusion
(A)
.



with
the
key
in
the
start
position
.
See
Fig
.
8
.
If
voltage
is
not
present,
check
the
wiring
between
the
ignition
switch
and
the
starter
terminal
.
If
voltage
is
present
and
no
other
visible
wir
Voltage
Regulator



ing
faults
can
be
found,
the
problem
is
most
likely
interna¡in

"
Brush
protrusion
(minimum)
.......
.
..
5
mm
(
1
/4
in
.)



the
starter
motor
.

3
.
To
replace
brushes,
carefully
and
as
quickly
as
possi-

ble,
unsolder
brush
lead
from
brush
holder
termina¡,

withdrawing
brush
from
holder
at
same
time
.

4
.
Remove
any
traces
of
solder
frombrush
holder
termi-
nal
using
solder
wick
.

5
.
Fit
spring
into
brush
holder
and
inserí
new
brush
.

6
.
Guide
brush
lead
into
terminal
and
solder
into
place
.

Check
for
free
movement
of
brushes
when
solder

cools
.

7
.
Check
brush
slip
rings
in
alternator
for
wear
.
Lightly
clean
slip
rings
using
fine
abrasive
cloth
.

BATTERY,
STARTER,
ALTERNATOR



121-
7

Starter
Troubleshooting

If
the
starter
tucos
the
engine
slowlyor
fails
to
operate
when
the
ignition
isin
the
start
position,
check
the
battery
first
.
In-
spect
the
starter
wires,
terminals,
and
ground
connections
for
good
contact
.
In
particular,
make
sure
the
ground
connections
between
the
battery,
the
body
and
the
engine
are
completely
clean
and
tight
.
If
no
faults
can
be
found,
the
starter
may
be
faulty
and
should
be
replaced
.

NOTE
-

"
Starting
in1194,
a
factory-installed
drive-away
protec-
tion
system,
alsoreferred
to
as
EWS
or
EWS
11,
was
used
on
all
E36
cars
.
This
system
prevenís
operation
of
the
starter
when
the
system
is
engaged
.
See
515
Central
Locking
and
Anti-theft
.

"
On
cars
with
automatic
transmission,
a
starter
relay
and
a
neutral
safetyswitchare
used
to
present
theen-
ginefrom
starting
in
gear
positions
other
than
park
or
neutral
.
ff
voltage
is
not
present
atterminal
50
with
the
key
in
the
startposition,
check
these
components

To
make
the
most
accurate
check
of
the
battery
cables
and
starterwiring,
make
a
voltage
drop
test
on
the
cables
and
wir-

ing
as
described
in
600
Electrical
System-General
.

Terminal
30
'
\



/
Terminal
30h

0012518

8
.
Reinstall
regulator
and
alternator
.



Fig
.
8
.



Typical
starterwiring
terminal
identification
.
Large
wireat
ter-
minal
30
is
direct
battery
voltage
.
Smaller
wire
at
terminal
50
operates
starter
solenoid
via
ignition
switch
.

STARTER
SERVICE

121-
8



BATTERY,
STARTER,
ALTERNATOR

1f
the
solenoid
audibly
cliicks
but
the
motor
does
not
turn,



Starter,
removing
and
installing
switch
on
the
lights
andtum
the
key
to
the
start
position
.
lf
the



(6-cylinder
engine
with
lights
go
out
while
attempting
to
start,
the
battery
cable
may
be



manual
transmission)
loose
or
the
starter
may
have
a
short
circuit
.
If
the
lights
stay

on,the
solenoid
is
most
likely
atfault
.
The
starter
on
a
6-cylinder
car
with
manual
transmission
is

Starter,
removing
and
installing

(4-cylinder
engine)



1
.
Disconnect
negative
(-)
battery
cable
.

1
.
Disconnect
negative
(-)
cable
from
battery
.

CAUTION-

Prior
to
disconnecting
the
battery,
read
the
battery

disconnection
cautions
given
at
the
front
of
this

manual
on
page
viii
.

2
.
Remove
guide
tube
for
oil
dipstick
.

3
.
Raise
vehicle
.

WARNING
-

Make
sure
the
car
ís
stable
and
wefl
supported
at
all
times
.
Use
a
professional
automotive
lift
or
jack
stands
designed
forthe
purpose
.
A
floor
jack
is
not
adequate
support
.

4
.
Disconnect
wiring
from
starter
.

5
.
Remove
top
and
bottom
starter
bolts
.
Bottom
bolt
must

be
removed
from
below
car
.
Remove
starter
support

bracket,
if
applicable
.

removed
from
below
.

2
.
Raise
vehicle
.

3
.
Remove
reinforcing
cross
bracefromunder
transmís-

sion,
if
applicable
.

4
.
Remove
cover
from
fuel
filter
and
fuel
lines
on
left
side

underneath
car,
if
applicable
.
Detach
fuel
lines
and
har-

ness
connectors
from
retainingbrackets,
as
necessary

5
.
Disconnect
wiring
from
starter
.

6
.
Loosen
andremove
bolts
and
nuts
fastening
starter
to

transmission
bell
housing
and/or
engine
block
.
Remove

starter
supportbracket
.

7
.
Remove
starter
from
below
.

8
.
Check
starter
pinion
gear
and
flywheel
teeth
for
dam-

age
.

9
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.

6
.
Pull
starter
downward
and
turn
until
solenoid
is
at
top,



Tightening
Torques

then
remove
from
car
.



"
Re¡
nforcing
cross
brace

to
chassis
(M10)
..
...............
42
Nm
(31
ft-Ib)

7
.
>Check
starter
pinion
gear
and
flywheel
teeth
for
dam-



"
Starter
to
engine
block
(M10
bolt)
...
50
Nm
(37
ft-Ib)

age
.



"
Support
bracket
to
starter
(M5
nut)
...
5
Nm
(44
in-lb)

"
Support
bracket

8
.
Installation
is
reverse
of
removal
.



to
engine
block
(M10
bolt)
.........
47
Nm
(35
ft-Ib)

"
Wire
to
terminal
50
(M6
nut)
.........
6
Nm
(53
ín-Ib)

"
Wire
to
terminal
30
(M8
nut)
.........
12
Nm
(9
ft-lb)

Tightening
Torques

"
Starter
to
engine
block
(M10
bolt)
...
50
Nm
(37
ft-lb)

Wire
to
terminal
50
(M6
nut)
........
6
Nm
(53
in-lb)

"
Wire
toterminal
30
(M8
nut)
...
,
..:.
12
Nm
(9
ft-Ib)

STARTER
SERVICE

Starter,
removing
and
installing

(6-cylinder
engine
with

automatic
transmission)

The
starter
on
a
6-cylinder
car
with
automatic
transmission

ís
removed
from
above
.
It
is
necessary
to
remove
the
íntake

manifold
and
disconnect
a
number
of
electrical
harness
con-

nectors
.

1
.
Disconnect
negative
(-)
battery
cable
.

2
.
Remove
air
plenum
from
rear
of
engine
compartment
.

See640
Heating
and
Air
Conditioning
.

3
.
Remove
top
enginecovers
.
See
Fig
.
9
.

Fig
.
9
.



Remove
top
engine
cover
by
prying
out
plugs
and
removing
nuts
(A)
.
Make
sure
rubber
insulators
(B)
on
either
sideof
large
cover
do
not
fall
off
during
cover
removal
.

4
.
Remove
ignition
coil
harness
connectors
.
Remove
ground
connection
at
front
of
cylinder
head
.

5
.
Remove
two
retaining
bolts
and
lift
off
fuel
injector
har-
ness
connector
strip
.
Carefully
fold
away
all
harnesses
toward
right
side
of
engine
compartment
and
place
at
base
of
windshield
.
See
Fig
.
10
.

6
.
Remove
intake
manifold
.
See
113
Cylinder
Head
Re-
moval
and
Installation
.

7
.
Disconnect
wiring
from
starter
.

BATTERY,
STARTER,
ALTERNATOR



121-
9

Fig
.
10
.
Fuel
injection
harness
(A)
and
ignition
coíl
harness
connectors
(B)
being
lifted
off
engine
to
be
placed
at
base
ofwindshield
.
M50
engine
shown
.
Other
6-cylinder
engines
are
similar
.

8
.
Loosen
and
remove
bolts
and
nuts
fastening
starter
to
transmission
bell
housing
and/or
engine
block
.
Remove

starter
support
bracket
.

Fig
.
11
.
Starter
wiring
terminals
and
support
bracket(arrow)
.
Intake
manifold
has
been
removed
.

STARTER
SERVICE