cooling BMW 5 SERIES 1987 E34 Owner's Guide

17 Throttle body- check,
removal and refitting
2
Check
1Detach the air intake duct from the throttle
body (see Section 8) and move the duct out of
the way.
2Have an assistant depress the throttle
pedal while you watch the throttle valve.
Check that the throttle valve moves smoothly
when the throttle is moved from closed (idle
position) to fully-open (wide-open throttle).
3If the throttle valve is not working properly,
renew the throttle body unit.
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal and refitting
4Detach the battery negative cable.
5Detach the air intake duct from the throttle
body, and place to one side.
6Detach the accelerator cable from the
throttle body (see Section 9).
7Detach the cruise control cable, if applicable.
8Clearly label all electrical connectors
(throttle position sensor, cold start injector,
idle air stabiliser, etc), then unplug them.
9Clearly label all vacuum hoses, then detach
them.
10Unscrew the radiator or expansion tank
cap to relieve any residual pressure in the
cooling system, then refit it. Clamp shut the
coolant hoses, then loosen the hose clamps
and detach the hoses. Be prepared for some
coolant leakage.11Remove the throttle body mounting nuts
(upper) and bolts (lower), and detach the
throttle body from the air intake plenum (see
illustration).
12Cover the air intake plenum opening with
a clean cloth, to prevent dust or dirt from
entering while the throttle body is removed.
13Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten the throttle body mounting nuts to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifica-
tions, and adjust the throttle cable (see
Section 9) on completion.
18 Fuel pressure regulator-
check and renewal
3
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Check
1Depressurise the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2).
2Detach the battery negative cable.
3Disconnect the fuel line and connect a fuel
pressure gauge (see Section 3). Reconnect
the battery.4Pressurise the fuel system (refit the fuel
pump fuse and switch on the ignition), and
check for leakage around the gauge
connections.
5Connect a vacuum pump to the fuel
pressure regulator (see illustration).
6Run the fuel pump (see Section 3). Read the
fuel pressure gauge with vacuum applied to
the pressure regulator, and also with no
vacuum applied. The fuel pressure should
decrease as vacuum increases.
7Stop the fuel pump and reconnect the
vacuum hose to the regulator. Start the engine
and check the fuel system pressure at idle,
comparing your reading with the value listed
in this Chapter’s Specifications. Disconnect
the vacuum hose and watch the gauge - the
pressure should jump up to maximum as soon
as the hose is disconnected.
8If the fuel pressure is low, pinch the fuel
return line shut and watch the gauge. If the
pressure doesn’t rise, the fuel pump is
defective, or there is a restriction in the fuel
feed line. If the pressure now rises sharply,
renew the pressure regulator.
9If the indicated fuel pressure is too high,
stop the engine, disconnect the fuel return line
and blow through it to check for a blockage. If
there is no blockage, renew the fuel pressure
regulator.
10If the pressure doesn’t fluctuate as
described in paragraph 7, connect a vacuum
4•16 Fuel and exhaust systems
18.5 Carefully watch the fuel pressure
gauge as vacuum is applied (fuel pressure
should decrease as vacuum increases)
17.11 Remove the nuts (arrowed) and lift
the throttle body from the intake manifold
(the two lower bolts are hidden from view)16.11b Remove the nuts (arrowed) from
the air cleaner housing, and detach the
airflow meter16.11a Push the tab and remove the air
duct from inside the air cleaner assembly

6If the voltage is correct, unplug the
electrical connector and, using an ohmmeter,
check for continuity between the terminals of
the thermotime switch (see illustration).
Continuity should exist.
7Reconnect the coil lead, start the engine
and warm it up above 41ºC. When the engine
is warm, there should be no continuity
between the terminals. If there is, the switch is
faulty and must be renewed. Note: On 5-
Series models, there are several types of
thermotime switch. Each one is stamped with
an opening temperature and maximum
duration.
Renewal
Cold start injector
8Depressurise the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2).
9Disconnect the electrical connector from
the cold start injector.
10Where applicable, using a ring spanner or
deep socket, remove the fuel line fitting
connected to the cold start injector. On other
models, simply loosen the hose clamp and
detach the hose from the injector.
11Remove the cold start injector securing
bolts, and remove the injector.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal. Clean
the mating surfaces, and use a new gasket.
Thermotime switch
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure. Also, remove the
cap from the expansion tank or
radiator to relieve any residual pressure in
the cooling system.
13Prepare the new thermotime switch for
fitting by applying a light coat of thread
sealant to the threads.
14Disconnect the electrical connector from
the old thermotime switch.
15Using a deep socket, or a ring spanner,
unscrew the switch. Once the switch is
removed coolant will start to leak out, so
insert the new switch as quickly as possible.
Tighten the switch securely, and plug in the
electrical connector.
20 Fuel injectors-
check and renewal
2
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
Check
In-vehicle check
1Using a mechanic’s stethoscope (available
at most car accessory shops), check for a
clicking sound at each of the injectors while
the engine is idling (see illustration 15.7).
2The injectors should make a steady clicking
sound if they are operating properly.
3Increase the engine speed above 3500 rpm.
The frequency of the clicking sound should
rise with engine speed.
4If an injector isn’t functioning (not clicking),
purchase a special injector test light (a car
accessory shop or fuel injection specialist
may be able to help) and connect it to the
injector electrical connector. Start the engine
and make sure the light flashes. If it does, the
injector is receiving the proper voltage, so the
injector itself must be faulty.
5Unplug each injector connector, and checkthe resistance of the injector (see
illustration). Check your readings with the
values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Renew any that do not give the correct
resistance reading.
Volume test
6Because a special injection checker is
required to test injector volume, this
procedure is beyond the scope of the home
mechanic. Have the injector volume test
performed by a BMW dealer or other
specialist.
Renewal
7Unplug the main electrical connector for the
fuel injector wiring harness. Remove the
intake manifold (see Chapter 2A).
8Detach the fuel hoses from the fuel rail, and
remove the fuel rail mounting bolts (see
illustration).
9Lift the fuel rail/injector assembly from the
intake manifold.
10Unplug the electrical connectors from the
fuel injectors. Detach the injectors from the
fuel rail.
11Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to renew all O-rings. Coat the O-rings with a
light film of engine oil to prevent damage
during refitting. Pressurise the fuel system
(refit the fuel pump fuse and switch on the
ignition) and check for leaks before starting
the engine.
21 Idle air stabiliser valve-
check, adjustment and
renewal
4
1The idle air stabiliser system works to
maintain engine idle speed within a 200 rpm
range, regardless of varying engine loads at
idle. An electrically-operated valve allows a
small amount of air to bypass the throttle
plate, to raise the idle speed whenever the idle
speed drops below approximately 750 rpm. If
the idle speed rises above approximately
950 rpm, the idle air stabiliser valve closes
and stops extra air from bypassing the throttle
plate, reducing the idle speed.
4•18 Fuel and exhaust systems
20.8 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and
separate the fuel rail and injectors from
the intake manifold20.5 Check the resistance of each of the
fuel injectors19.6 Check the resistance of the
thermotime switch with the engine coolant
temperature below 30º C. There should be
continuity
If you don’t have a
mechanic’s stethoscope, a
screwdriver can be used to
check for a clicking sound at
the injectors. Place the tip of the
screwdriver against the injector, and
press your ear against the handle.

2L-Jetronic systems are equipped with a
separate idle speed control unit (computer)
located under the facia. The idle air stabiliser
valve has an adjusting screw. Early models
are equipped with plastic valves, but they still
can be adjusted by removing the hose and
inserting a very thin screwdriver inside.
3Early Motronic systems are also equipped
with a separate idle speed control unit
(computer) located under the facia. The idle
air stabiliser valve has an adjusting screw.
4On later Motronic systems, the idle air
stabiliser valve is ECU-controlled, and no
provision is made for adjustment.
Preliminary check
5Before performing any checks on the idle
air stabiliser valve, make sure these criteria
are met:
a) The engine must be at operating
temperature (60ºC)
b) Turn off all electrical accessories (air
conditioning, heater controls, headlights,
auxiliary cooling fan, etc)
c) The throttle position sensor must be
operating correctly (see Chapter 6)
d) There must not be any exhaust leaks
e) There must not be any vacuum leaks
f) Where fitted, the oxygen sensor must be
operating properly (see Chapter 6)
6Connect a tachometer in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions.
Caution: The ignition must be
switched off before making any
electrical connections.
7The idle air stabiliser valve operates
continuously when the ignition is on. Start the
engine and make sure the valve is vibrating
and humming slightly.
L-Jetronic system
Check
8With the engine running, disconnect the
electrical connector from the valve. The idle
speed should increase to about 2,000 rpm.
9If the idle speed does not increase, turn the
engine off. Using an ohmmeter, check the
resistance across the terminals of the valve(see illustration). It should be 9 to 10 ohms
with the ambient air temperature at about
20º C.
10Using a pair of jumper wires, apply battery
voltage to the valve, and confirm that the
valve closes tightly. When the voltage is
removed, the valve should re-open.
11If the idle air stabiliser valve fails any of
the tests, renew it.
12If the idle air stabiliser valve passes the
tests, check the control current.
13Unplug the electrical connector from the
valve. Using a jumper wire, connect one
terminal of the electrical connector to one of
the terminals on the valve, Connect an
ammeter (0 to 1000 mA range) between the
other terminal on the electrical connector and
the remaining terminal on the valve. Start the
engine and allow it to idle. With the engine
running, the current reading should be
between 400 and 500 mA. Adjust the valve if
the current reading is not as specified (see
paragraph 15). Note: The idle air stabiliser
current will fluctuate between 400 and
1100 mA if the engine is too cold, if the
coolant temperature sensor is faulty, if the idle
speed needs to be adjusted, if there is an
engine vacuum leak or if electrical accessories
are on.
14If there is no current reading, have the idle
speed control unit diagnosed by a BMW
dealer or other specialist. Note: The idle air
stabiliser control unit (located under the facia)
can develop an electrical connector problem
that intermittently turns the valve on and off.
Check the connector very carefully before
fitting any new parts. Sometimes, a new
control unit will only fix the problem
temporarily.
Adjustment
15With the ignition switched off, connect a
tachometer in accordance with the equipment
manufacturer’s instructions.
16Make sure the ignition timing is correct
(see Chapter 5).
17Connect an ammeter to the valve (see
paragraph 13).
18With the engine running, the current
reading should be 450 to 470 mA at 850 to900 rpm (manual transmission), or 460 to
480 mA at 850 to 900 rpm (automatic
transmission).
19If the control current is not correct, turn
the adjusting screw until it is within the correct
range (see illustration). Note: On metal-type
valves, the adjusting screw is mounted
externally. On plastic-type valves, the
adjustment screw is inside, and can be
reached by removing the hose at the end of
the valve.
Motronic systems
Check
Note:There are two types of idle air stabiliser
valve on these systems; early models usually
have a two-wire valve, while later models are
equipped with a three-wire valve.
20With the engine running, disconnect the
electrical connector from the valve. The idle
speed should increase to about 2000 rpm.
21If the idle speed does not increase:
a) Two-wire valve - Using a pair of jumper
wires, apply battery voltage to the valve,
and confirm that the valve closes tightly.
When the voltage is removed, the valve
should re-open. Also, check the
resistance of the valve (see illus-
tration 21.9). The resistance should be
about 9 or 10 ohms.
b) Three-wire valve - Turn the engine off and
unplug the electrical connector from the
valve. Using an ohmmeter, check the
resistance on the two outer terminals of
the valve. (see illustration). It should be
about 40 ohms. Check the resistance on
the centre and outside terminals of the
valve. They should both be about
20 ohms.
22If the idle air stabiliser valve fails any of
the tests, renew it.
23If the idle air stabiliser valve tests are all
correct, check the control current (two-wire
valve) or the voltage (three-wire valve) as
follows.
24On two-wire valves, connect an ammeter
(0 to 1000 mA range) as described in
paragraph 13. Start the engine, and allow it to
idle. With the engine running, the current
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•19
21.21 Check the idle air stabiliser valve
resistance on the two outer terminals on
later Motronic systems - it should be about
40 ohms21.19 Location of the adjustment screw on
the metal-type idle air stabiliser valve
(L-Jetronic system)21.9 Check the resistance of the idle air
stabiliser valve - it should typically be 9 to
10 ohms (L-Jetronic system)
4

7 Ignition timing (TCI system)-
check and adjustment
4
Warning: Keep hands, equipment
and wires well clear of the
viscous cooling fan during
adjustment of the ignition timing.
Note:This Section describes the procedure
for checking and adjusting the ignition timing
on engines fitted with the TCI system. On
engines fitted with the Motronic engine
management system, the ignition timing is
controlled by the electronic control unit, and
no adjustment is possible. The timing can be
checked using the following procedure, but no
ignition timing values were available at the
time of writing. If the timing is thought to be
incorrect, refer to a BMW dealer.
1Some special tools are required for this
procedure (see illustration). The engine must
be at normal operating temperature, and the
air conditioning (where fitted) must be
switched off. Make sure the idle speed is
correct.
2Apply the handbrake, and chock the wheels
to prevent movement of the vehicle. The
transmission must be in neutral (manual) or
Park (automatic).
3The timing marks are located on the engine
flywheel (viewed through the timing checkhole in the bellhousing) and/or on the vibration
damper on the front of the engine.
4Where applicable, disconnect the vacuum
hose from the distributor vacuum advance
unit.
5Connect a tachometer and timing light
according to the equipment manufacturer’s
instructions (an inductive pick-up timing light
is preferred). Generally, the power leads for
the timing light are attached to the battery
terminals, and the pick-up lead is attached to
the No 1 spark plug HT lead. The No 1 spark
plug is the one at the front of the engine.
Caution: If an inductive pick-up
timing light isn’t available, don’t
puncture the spark plug HT lead
to attach the timing light pick-up
lead. Instead, use an adapter between the
spark plug and HT lead. If the insulation on
the HT lead is damaged, the secondary
voltage will jump to earth at the damaged
point, and the engine will misfire.
Note:On some models, a TDC transmitter is
fitted for checking the ignition system.
However, a special BMW tester must be
connected to the diagnostic socket to use it,
so unless the special tester is available, a
conventional timing light should be used. The
ignition timing mark may be on the vibration
damper, but if not, normally the TDC mark will
be. If the timing light is of the adjustable delay
type, then the ignition timing may be
determined by zeroing the adjustment, then
turning the adjustment until the TDC marks are
aligned, and then reading off the amount of
advance from the timing light. If a standard
timing light is being used, make a mark on the
vibration damper in accordance with the
specified advance, using the following formula
to calculate the distance from the TDC mark
to the timing mark:
Distance = 2Pr x advance
360
where P = 3.142
r = radius of vibration damper
advance = specified advance
BTDC in degrees
6With the ignition off, loosen the distributor
clamp nut just enough to allow the distributor
to pivot without any slipping.7Make sure the timing light wires are routed
away from the drivebelts and fan, then start
the engine.
8Raise the engine rpm to the specified
speed, and then point the flashing timing light
at the timing marks - be very careful of moving
engine components.
9The mark on the flywheel or vibration
damper will appear stationary. If it’s aligned
with the specified point on the bellhousing or
engine front cover, the ignition timing is
correct (see illustrations).
10If the marks aren’t aligned, adjustment is
required. Turn the distributor very slowly until
the marks are aligned, taking care not to
touch the HT leads.
11Tighten the nut on the distributor clamp,
and recheck the timing.
12Switch off the engine, and remove the
timing light and tachometer. Reconnect the
vacuum hose where applicable.
8 Distributor-
removal and refitting
4
TCI system
Removal
1After carefully marking them for position,
remove the coil HT lead and spark plug HT
leads from the distributor cap (see Chapter 1).
2Remove No 1 spark plug (the one nearest
you when you are standing in front of the
engine).
3Manually rotate the engine to Top Dead
Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke for
No 1 piston (see Chapter 2A)
4Carefully mark the vacuum hoses, if more
than one is present on your distributor.
5Disconnect the vacuum hose(s).
6Disconnect the primary circuit wires from
the distributor.
7Mark the relationship of the rotor tip to the
distributor housing (see illustration). Also
mark the relationship of the distributor
housing to the engine.
5•4 Engine electrical systems
7.1 Tools for checking and adjusting the
ignition timing
1Vacuum plugs- Vacuum hoses will, in
most cases, have to be disconnected and
plugged. Moulded plugs in various shapes
and sizes can be used for this, if wished
2Inductive pick-up timing light- Flashes a
bright, concentrated beam of light when
No 1 spark plug fires. Connect the leads
according to the instructions supplied with
the light
3Distributor spanner - On some models,
the hold-down bolt for the distributor is
difficult to reach and turn with conventional
spanners or sockets. A special spanner like
this must be used
7.9a Flywheel “OT” timing mark 7.9b Flywheel “OZ” timing mark

adjusting screw and contract the handbrake
shoes (see illustration).
Refitting
7Ensure that the disc is completely clean
before refitting. If penetrating oil was used to
remove the disc, make sure that no trace of
this is present. Place the disc on the hub, and
refit the disc retaining screw. Tighten the
screw securely.
8Refit the caliper mounting bracket (if
removed), brake pads and caliper (see
Sections 3 and 4). Tighten all fasteners to the
torques listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
9Refit the wheel, then lower the vehicle to
the ground. Depress the brake pedal a few
times to bring the brake pads into contact
with the disc.
10Adjust the handbrake shoes, if necessary
(Section 11).
11Check the operation of the brakes
carefully before returning the vehicle to
normal service.
6 Drum brake shoes- renewal
2
Warning: Brake shoes must be
renewed on both wheels at the
same time - never renew the
shoes on only one wheel. Also,
the dust created by the brake system may
contain asbestos, which is harmful to your
health. Never blow it out with compressed
air, and don’t inhale any of it. Always wear
an approved filtering mask when servicing
the brake system. Do not, under anycircumstances, use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake
system cleaner only.
Caution: Whenever the brake
shoes are renewed, new return
and hold-down springs and new
automatic adjuster thermo-clips
should also be fitted. Due to the
continuous heating/cooling cycle to which
the springs are subjected, they may lose
their tension over a period of time,
allowing the shoes to drag on the drum,
and wear at a much faster rate than
normal. When fitting new brake shoes, use
only original-equipment or high-quality
brand name parts.
Note 1:All four rear brake shoes must be
renewed at the same time, but to avoid mixing
up parts, work on only one brake assembly at
a time. Some rear brake components are
different for left and right-hand sides, so don’t
mix them up.
Note 2:If the wheel cylinder is found to be
leaking or otherwise defective, renew it after
removing the brake shoes. This is simply a
matter of disconnecting the hydraulic line and
unbolting the cylinder from the backplate.
Attempting to overhaul a leaking cylinder is
unlikely to be satisfactory, even if spare parts
are available.
1Chock the front wheels, then loosen the
rear wheel bolts, raise the rear of the vehicle
and place it securely on axle stands. Remove
the rear wheels and release the handbrake.
2Remove the drum retaining screw (see
illustration)and remove the drum. If the drum
is stuck to the hub, spray the area between
the hub and the drum with penetrating oil
(see illustration). If the drum still won’t come
off, the shoes have probably worn ridges into
the drum, and will have to be retracted. Insert
a narrow flat-bladed screwdriver through one
of the holes in the hub flange (see
illustration)and back off the adjuster wheel
until the drum can be removed.
3Inspect the drum for cracks, score marks,
deep scratches and hard spots, which will
appear as small discoloured areas. If the hard
spots can’t be removed with emery cloth or if
any of the other conditions exist, the drum must
be taken to a specialist to have the drum
resurfaced. Note:Professionals recommendresurfacing the drums whenever a brake job is
done. Resurfacing will eliminate the possibility
of out-of-round drums. If the drums are worn so
much that they can’t be resurfaced without
exceeding the maximum allowable diameter
(which is cast into the drum) (see illustration),
then new ones will be required. At the very least,
if you elect not to have the drums resurfaced,
remove the glazing from the surface with emery
cloth or sandpaper, using a swirling motion.
Braking system 9•7
6.2b If the drum is stuck to the hub, apply
penetrating oil around the hub/drum area,
and give it a few minutes to loosen up
any rust6.2a Removing the drum retaining screw5.6d If a rear disc still sticks to the hub,
insert a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver
through the hub flange, rotate the
starwheel on the handbrake adjusting
screw, and contract the handbrake shoes
(disc removed for clarity)
6.3 The maximum allowable inside
diameter of the drum is cast into the drum
6.2c If the brake shoes have worn a
groove in the drum and it won’t come off,
insert a thin flat-bladed screwdriver
through one of the wheel bolt holes in the
flange, and loosen the automatic adjuster
mechanism (for the sake of clarity, the
drum has already been removed in this
photo, and the screwdriver is being
inserted underneath the flange instead of
though a wheel bolt hole)
9
If the front disc is stuck, on
some discs it is possible to
thread two or three bolts into
the holes provided and
tighten them. Alternate between the
bolts, turning them a couple of turns at
a time, until the disc is free.

REF•9
REF
Fault Finding
Engine
m mEngine will not rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine hard to start when cold
m mEngine hard to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mOil puddle under engine
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misses at idle speed
m mEngine misses throughout driving speed range
m mEngine misfires on acceleration
m mEngine surges while holding accelerator steady
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mPinking or knocking engine sounds when accelerating
or driving uphill
m mEngine runs with oil pressure light on
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
Engine electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold charge
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light fails to go out
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light fails to come on
when key is turned
Fuel system
m mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCoolant loss
m mPoor coolant circulation
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mFluid in area of master cylinder dust cover and on pedal
m mFluid on slave cylinder
m mPedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m mUnable to select gears
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in
vehicle speed)
m mGrabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged
m mNoise in clutch area
m mClutch pedal stays on floor
m mHigh pedal effort
Manual transmission
m
mVibration
m mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mNoisy in all gears
m mSlips out of gear
m mLeaks lubricant
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has a burned smell
m mGeneral shift mechanism problems
m mTransmission will not kickdown with accelerator pedal
pressed to the floor
m mEngine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive
in forward or reverse gears
Brakes
m mVehicle pulls to one side during braking
m mNoise (high-pitched squeal) when the brakes are applied
m mBrake vibration (pedal pulsates)
m mExcessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mDragging brakes
m mGrabbing or uneven braking action
m mBrake pedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m mBrake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance
m mHandbrake does not hold
Suspension and steering
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mAbnormal or excessive tyre wear
m mWheel makes a “thumping” noise
m mShimmy, shake or vibration
m mHigh steering effort
m mPoor steering self-centring
m mAbnormal noise at the front end
m mWandering or poor steering stability
m mErratic steering when braking
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or
during braking
m mSuspension bottoms
m mUnevenly-worn tyres
m mExcessive tyre wear on outside edge
m mExcessive tyre wear on inside edge
m mTyre tread worn in one place
m mExcessive play or looseness in steering system
m mRattling or clicking noise in steering gear

REF•10Fault Finding
Engine will not rotate when attempting to start
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1).
m mAutomatic transmission not completely engaged in Park (Chap-
ter 7B) or (on models with a clutch switch) clutch not completely
depressed (Chapter 8).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapters 5 and 12).
m mStarter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear (Chapter 5).
m mStarter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor faulty (Chapter 5).
m mIgnition switch faulty (Chapter 12).
m mStarter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).
m mEngine internal problem (Chapter 2B).
Engine rotates, but will not start
m
mFuel tank empty.
m mBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mLeaking fuel injector(s), faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel not reaching fuel injection system or carburettor (Chapter 4).
m mIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapter 5).
m mFuel injector stuck open (Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m mLoose distributor mounting bolts causing ignition timing to wander
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil, or faulty
coil (Chapter 5).
Engine hard to start when cold
m mBattery discharged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel system malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mInjector(s) leaking or carburettor automatic choke faulty (Chap-
ter 4).
m mDistributor rotor carbon-tracked (Chapter 5).
Engine hard to start when hot
m
mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel not reaching the fuel injection system or carburettor (Chap-
ter 4).
m mCorroded battery connections, especially earth (negative)
connection (Chapter 1).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
m mPinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
mLoose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or
alternator (Chapter 5).
m mInsufficient fuel reaching the fuel injector(s) or carburettor
(Chapters 1 and 4).
m mDamaged fuel injection system speed sensors (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty fuel injection relays (Chapter 5).
Oil puddle under engine
m
mOil sump gasket and/or sump drain plug seal leaking (Chapter 2).
m mOil pressure sender unit leaking (Chapter 2).
m mValve cover gaskets leaking (Chapter 2).
m mEngine oil seals leaking (Chapter 2).
Engine idles erratically
m
mVacuum leakage (Chapter 4).
m mAir filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system
or carburettor (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mTiming belt/chain and/or sprockets worn (Chapter 2).
m mCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
m mFaulty charcoal canister, where fitted (Chapter 6). This Section provides an easy-reference guide to the more
common problems which may occur during the operation of your
vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under
headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine,
Cooling system, etc. They also refer you to the Chapter and/or
Section which deals with the problem.
Remember that successful fault diagnosis is not a mysterious
black art practised only by professional mechanics. It is simply the
result of the right knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic
approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination,
starting with the simplest solution and working through to the mostcomplex - and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the fuel
tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don’t assume that you are
exempt from such oversights.
Finally, always establish a clear idea of why a problem has
occurred, and take steps to ensure that it doesn’t happen again. If the
electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other
connections in the system to make sure that they don’t fail as well. If a
particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don’t just renew one
fuse after another. Remember, failure of a small component can often
be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more
important component or system.
Engine

REF•12Fault Finding
Fuel system
Excessive fuel consumption
m mDirty or clogged air filter element (Chapter 1).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mEmissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mFuel injection internal parts or carburettor jets excessively worn or
damaged (Chapter 4).
m mLow tyre pressure or incorrect tyre size (Chapter 1).
m mUnsympathetic driving style, or unfavourable conditions.
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Warning: Don’t drive the vehicle if a fuel leak is
suspected. Leaking fuel in the engine compartment
could catch fire.
m mLeak in a fuel feed or vent line (Chapter 4).
m mTank overfilled.
m mFuel injector or carburettor parts excessively worn, or fuel system
gaskets leaking (Chapter 4).
Cooling system
Overheating
m mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mWater pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator matrix blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter 3).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
Overcooling
m
mFaulty thermostat (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated/damaged hoses; loose clamps (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mWater pump seal defective (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mLeakage from radiator matrix, heater matrix or header tank
(Chapter 3).
m mRadiator/engine block drain plugs or water jacket core plugs
leaking (Chapters 2 and 3).
Internal coolant leakage
m mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mCracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter 2).
Coolant loss
m
mToo much coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mCoolant boiling away because of overheating (see above).
m mInternal or external leakage (see above).
m mFaulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).
Poor coolant circulation
m
mInoperative water pump (Chapter 3).
m mRestriction in cooling system (Chapters 1 and 3).
m mWater pump drivebelt defective/out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat sticking (Chapter 3).
Clutch
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
m mMaster or slave cylinder faulty (Chapter 8).
m mFluid line burst or leaking (Chapter 8).
m mConnections leaking (Chapter 8).
m mNo fluid in reservoir (Chapter 1).
m mIf fluid is present in master cylinder dust cover, master cylinder rear
seal has failed (Chapter 8).
m mBroken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).
Fluid in area of master cylinder dust cover, and on
pedal
m mRear seal failure in master cylinder (Chapter 8).
Fluid on slave cylinder
m
mSlave cylinder plunger seal faulty (Chapter 8).
Pedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m
mAir in system (Chapter 8).
Unable to select gears
m
mFaulty transmission (Chapter 7).
m mFaulty clutch plate (Chapter 8).
m mFork and bearing not assembled properly (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty pressure plate (Chapter 8).
m mPressure plate-to-flywheel bolts loose (Chapter 8).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no
increase in vehicle speed)
m mClutch plate worn (Chapter 8).
m mClutch plate is oil-soaked by leaking rear main seal (Chapter 8).
m mWarped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).
m mWeak diaphragm spring (Chapter 8).
m mClutch plate overheated.
Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged
m
mOil on clutch plate lining, burned or glazed facings (Chapter 8).
m mWorn or loose engine or transmission mountings (Chapters 2
and 7A).
m mWorn splines on clutch plate hub (Chapter 8).
m mWarped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).
Noise in clutch area
m
mFork improperly fitted (Chapter 8).
m mFaulty release bearing (Chapter 8).
Clutch pedal stays on floor
m
mFork binding in housing (Chapter 8).
m mBroken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).
High pedal effort
m
mFork binding in housing (Chapter 8).
m mPressure plate faulty (Chapter 8).
m mIncorrect-size master or slave cylinder fitted (Chapter 8).

REF•20Glossary of Technical Terms
A
ABS (Anti-lock brake system)A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleanerA metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air filter elementThe actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
Allen keyA hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clipA long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
AlternatorA component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
charge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
accessories.
Ampere (amp)A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealerA substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widely used.
AntifreezeA substance (usually ethylene
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits thatwould tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-seize compoundA coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subjected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
AsbestosA natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.
Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
AxleA shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
AxleshaftA single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.
BBall bearingAn anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.BearingThe curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearingThe bearing in the end of
the connecting rod that’s attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nippleA valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air. Also called a bleed screw.
Brake bleedingProcedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake discThe component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake drumThe component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake liningsThe friction material which
contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake padsThe replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoeThe crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systemsFor more information on
braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Breaker barA long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
BulkheadThe insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
CCaliperThe non-rotating part of a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and carries
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
object.
Brake bleeding
Bearing
Axle assembly
Anti-seize compound
Alternator (exploded view)
Air filter

REF•23
REF
Glossary of Technical Terms
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful tothe ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
RotorIn a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
RunoutThe amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
SSealantA liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lampAn older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebeltA single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
ShimThin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammerA special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
SprocketA tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switchOn vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage