coolant temperature BMW 5 SERIES 1988 E34 Workshop Manual

engine damage. Conversely, overfilling the
engine (adding oil above the upper mark) may
cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks, or oil
seal failures.
6To add oil, remove the filler cap located on
the valve cover (see illustrations). After
adding oil, wait a few minutes to allow the
level to stabilise, then pull the dipstick out and
check the level again. Add more oil if required.
Refit the filler cap, tightening it by hand only.
7Checking the oil level is an important
preventive maintenance step. A consistently
low oil level indicates oil leakage through
damaged seals or defective gaskets, or oil
burning (internal leakage past worn rings or
valve guides). The condition of the oil should
also be noted. If the oil looks milky in colour or
has water droplets in it, the cylinder head
gasket may be blown, or the head or block
may be cracked. The engine should be
repaired immediately. Whenever you check
the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger
up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you
see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the
dipstick, the oil should be changed (see
Section 6).
Engine coolant
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the vehiclepaintwork. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly
toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in
puddles on the floor; children and pets are
attracted by its sweet smell, and may drink
it. Check with local authorities about
disposing of used antifreeze. Local
collection centres may exist, to see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.
8All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a pressurised coolant recovery
system. On most models, a white plastic
expansion tank (or coolant reservoir) located
in the engine compartment is connected by a
hose to the radiator. As the engine heats up
during operation, the expanding coolant fills
the tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is
automatically drawn back into the cooling
system, to maintain the correct level.
9The coolant level in the reservoir (see
illustrations)should be checked regularly.
Add a 40%/60% mixture of ethylene glycol-
based antifreeze to water (see illustration).
Warning: Do not remove the
expansion tank cap or radiator
cap to check the coolant level,
unless the engine is completely
cold! The level in the reservoir varies with
the temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should beabove the LOW mark on the reservoir.
Once the engine has warmed up, the level
should be at or near the FULL mark. If it
isn’t, allow the engine to cool, then remove
the cap from the reservoir.
10Drive the vehicle and recheck the coolant
level. If only a small amount of coolant is
required to bring the system up to the proper
level, plain water can be used. However,
repeated additions of water will dilute the
antifreeze. In order to maintain the proper
ratio of antifreeze and water, always top-up
the coolant level with the correct mixture.
11If the coolant level drops consistently,
there must be a leak in the system. Inspect
the radiator, hoses, filler cap, drain plugs and
water pump (see Section 29). If no leaks are
noted, have the expansion tank cap or
radiator cap pressure-tested by a BMW
dealer.
12If you have to remove the cap, wait until
the engine has cooled completely, then wrap
a thick cloth around the cap and turn it to the
first stop. If coolant or steam escapes, let the
engine cool down longer, then remove the
cap.
13Check the condition of the coolant as
well. It should be relatively clear. If it’s brown
or rust-coloured, the system should be
drained, flushed and refilled. Even if the
coolant appears to be normal, the corrosion
1•8
4.9d Adding antifreeze mixture4.9c On some 5-Series models, the
expansion tank (coolant reservoir) is
located on the bulkhead4.9b On other models, the expansion tank
(coolant reservoir) is located on the side of
the engine compartment - remove the cap
to add coolant
4.9a On some models, the expansion tank
(coolant reservoir) is mounted on the
radiator - make sure the level is kept at or
near the FULL mark (arrowed)4.6b Topping-up the engine oil4.6a The threaded oil filler cap is located
in the valve cover - always make sure the
area around the opening is clean before
unscrewing the cap
Weekly Checks

Flushing
7Once the system is completely drained,
flush the radiator with fresh water from a
garden hose until the water runs clear at the
drain or bottom hose. If the radiator is
severely corroded, damaged or leaking, it
should be removed (see Chapter 3) and taken
to a radiator repair specialist.
8Flushing in this way will remove sediments
from the radiator, but will not remove rust and
scale from the engine and cooling tube
surfaces. These deposits can be removed by
using a chemical cleaner. Follow the
procedure outlined in the cleaner
manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the
cylinder block drain plug before flushing the
engine.
9On models so equipped, remove the
overflow hose from the coolant recovery
reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with
clean water, then reconnect the hose.
Refilling
10Tighten the radiator drain plug, or
reconnect the radiator bottom hose. Refit and
tighten the cylinder block drain plug.
Four-cylinder engines
11Slowly add new coolant (a 40%/60%
mixture of antifreeze to water) to the radiator
until it is full. Add coolant to the reservoir up
to the lower mark.
12Leave the radiator cap off, and run the
engine in a well-ventilated area until the
thermostat opens (coolant will begin flowing
through the radiator, and the upper radiator
hose will become hot).
13Turn the engine off, and let it cool. Add
more coolant mixture to bring the coolant
level back up to the lip on the radiator filler
neck. On the M40 engine, unscrew the bleed
screw from the top of the radiator, and add
coolant until it comes out of the bleed screw
hole. Refit and tighten the bleed screw.
14Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel
air, then add more coolant mixture if
necessary. Refit the radiator cap.
15Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature, and check for leaks.
Six-cylinder engines
16Loosen the bleed screw in the thermostat
housing (see illustration)
17Fill the radiator with a 40%/60% solution
of antifreeze and water until it comes out of
the bleed screw opening. Tighten the bleed
screw.
18Refit the radiator cap, and run the engine
until the thermostat opens (the upper radiator
hose will become hot). Slowly loosen the
bleed screw until no bubbles emerge, then
tighten the screw.
19Repeat the procedure until the air is bled
from the system.
30 Fuel filter renewal
1
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
1On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system (see Chapter 4).
2The fuel filter is located in the engine
compartment on the bulkhead, or under the
vehicle adjacent to the fuel tank.
3Because on some models the filter is
located adjacent to the starter motor, fuel
could leak onto the electrical connections. For
safety reasons, therefore, disconnect the
battery negative cable before beginning work.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
4Place a pan or rags under the fuel filter to
catch any spilled fuel. If suitable hose clamps
are available, clamp the inlet and outlet hoses.
5 Detach the hoses and remove the bracket
screws/nuts, then remove the filter and where
applicable the bracket assembly (see
illustration).
6Detach the filter from the bracket.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
the arrow on the filter points in the direction of
fuel flow.
31 Manual transmission
lubricant change
1
1Tools necessary for this job include axle
stands to support the vehicle in a raised
position, an Allen key to remove the drain
plug, a drain pan, newspapers and clean rags.
The correct amount of the specified lubricant
should also be available (see “Lubricants and
fluids”at the start of this Chapter).
2The lubricant should be drained when it is
hot (ie immediately after the vehicle has been
driven); this will remove any contaminants
better than if the lubricant were cold. Because
1•25
30.5 To renew the fuel filter, disconnect
the hoses (A), then unscrew the nut (B) and
detach the filter from the bracket (fuel
injection type shown)29.16 The bleed screw (arrowed) is
located on the thermostat housing (six-
cylinder models)29.4 Radiator drain plug location
(arrowed) - not fitted to all models
31.5 Use an Allen key to remove the drain
plug (arrowed) from the bottom of the
transmission
1
Every 24 000 miles

22Using a scraper, remove all traces of old
gasket material from the sealing surfaces of
the covers and engine block.
Caution: Be very careful not to
scratch or gouge the delicate
aluminium surfaces. Also, do not
damage the sump gasket, and
keep it clean. Gasket removal solvents are
available at motor factors, and may
prove helpful. After all gasket material has
been removed, the gasket surfaces
can be degreased by wiping them
with a rag dampened with a suitable
solvent.
23Support the cover on two blocks of wood,
and drive out the seals from behind with a
hammer and screwdriver. Be very careful not
to damage the seal bores in the process.
24Coat the outside diameters and lips of the
new seals with multi-purpose grease, and
drive the seals into the cover with a hammer
and a socket slightly smaller in diameter than
the outside diameter of the seal.
25Apply a film of RTV-type gasket sealant to
the surface of the sump gasket that mates
with the front cover. Apply extra beads of RTV
sealant to the edges where the gasket meets
the engine block. Note:If the sump gasket is
damaged, instead of fitting a whole new
gasket, you might try trimming the front
portion of the gasket off at the point where it
meets the engine block, then trim off the front
portion of a new sump gasket so it’s exactly
the same size. Cover the exposed inside area
of the sump with a rag, then clean all traces of
old gasket material off the area where the
gasket was removed. Attach the new gasket
piece to the sump with contact-cement-type
gasket adhesive, then apply RTV-type sealant
as described at the beginning of this
paragraph.
26Coat both sides of the new gasket with
RTV-type gasket sealant, then attach the front
cover to the front of the engine, carefully
working the seals over the crankshaft and
intermediate shaft. Refit the bolts and tighten
them evenly to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Work from bolt-to-
bolt in a criss-cross pattern, to be sure they’re
tightened evenly.Note 1:Tighten the front
cover-to-block bolts first, then tighten the
sump-to-cover bolts. Note 2:After applying
RTV-type sealant, reassembly must be
completed in about 10 minutes so the RTV
won’t prematurely harden.
27The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
Crankshaft front seal (M40 engines)
28Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
sprocket (see Section 10).
29Remove the Woodruff key from the
groove in the end of the crankshaft.
30Note the fitted position of the oil seal, then
prise it out from the front cover using a
screwdriver, but take care not to damage the
bore of the cover or the surface of thecrankshaft. If the seal is tight, drill two small
holes in the metal end of the seal, and use two
self-tapping screws to pull out the seal. Make
sure all remains of swarf are removed.
31Coat the outside diameter and lip of the
new seal with multi-purpose grease, then
drive it into the cover with a hammer and a
socket slightly smaller in diameter than the
outside diameter of the seal. Make sure the
seal enters squarely.
32The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Note that it is recommended that the
timing belt be renewed - see Section 10.
12 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
5
Removal
1Relieve the fuel pressure on all fuel injection
engines (see Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery. Where the battery is located in the
engine compartment, the battery may be
removed completely (see Chapter 5).
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
3Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
4Disconnect the wiring from the distributor
(mark all wiring for position first, if necessary),
and the HT lead from the coil (see Chapter 5).
5Disconnect the lead from the coolant
temperature sender unit (see Chapter 3).
6Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail or
carburettor as applicable (see Chapter 4).
7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 3).
8Clearly label then disconnect all other
hoses from the throttle body, intake manifold,
carburettor and cylinder head, as applicable.
9Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle linkage or carburettor (see Chapter 4).
10Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the
cylinder head (see Section 6). Depending on
the engine type, It may not be necessary to
disconnect the manifold from the exhaust
pipe; however, on right-hand-drive models,
the steering column intermediate shaft may
not allow the manifold to clear the studs on
the cylinder head.
11Remove or disconnect any remaining
hoses or lines from the intake manifold,
including the ignition advance vacuum line(s),
and the coolant and heater hoses.
12On early carburettor models, disconnect
the wiring from the alternator and starter
motor.13Remove the intake manifold (see Sec-
tion 5). Do not dismantle or remove any fuel
injection system components unless it is
absolutely necessary.
14Remove the fan drivebelt and fan (see
Chapter 3).
15Remove the valve cover and gasket (see
Section 4). Remove the semi-circular rubber
seal from the front of the cylinder head, where
this is not incorporated in the valve cover
gasket.
16Set No 1 piston at Top Dead Centre on
the compression stroke (see Section 3).
17Remove the timing chain or belt (see
Section 8 or 10). Note:If you want to save
time by not removing and refitting the timing
belt or chain and re-timing the engine, you can
unfasten the camshaft sprocket and suspend
it out of the way - with the belt or chain still
attached - by a piece of rope. Be sure the
rope keeps firm tension on the belt or chain,
so it won’t become disengaged from any of
the sprockets.
18Loosen the cylinder head bolts a quarter-
turn at a time each, in the reverse of the
tightening sequence shown (see illustrations
12.30a, 12.30b, 12.30c or 12.30d). Do
notdismantle or remove the rocker arm
assembly at this time on M10, M20 and M30
engines.
19Remove the cylinder head by lifting it
straight up and off the engine block. Do not
prise between the cylinder head and the
engine block, as damage to the gasket sealing
surfaces may result. Instead, use a blunt bar
positioned in an intake port to gently prise the
head loose.
20Remove any remaining external
components from the head to allow for
thorough cleaning and inspection. See
Chapter 2B for cylinder head servicing
procedures. On the M40 engine, remove the
rubber O-ring from the groove in the top of the
oil pump/front end cover housing.
Refitting
21The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and block must be perfectly clean when the
head is refitted.
22Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces
of carbon and old gasket material, then clean
the mating surfaces with a suitable solvent. If
there’s oil on the mating surfaces when the
head is refitted, the gasket may not seal
correctly, and leaks could develop. When
working on the block, stuff the cylinders with
clean rags to keep out debris. Use a vacuum
cleaner to remove material that falls into the
cylinders.
23Check the block and head mating
surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other
damage. If the damage is slight, it can be
removed with a file; if it’s excessive,
machining may be the only alternative.
24Use a tap of the correct size to chase the
threads in the head bolt holes, then clean the
holes with compressed air - make sure that
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•13
2A

7Wipe the oil out of the cylinder, and repeat
the procedure for the remaining cylinders.
8After the honing job is complete, chamfer
the top edges of the cylinder bores with a
small file, so the rings won’t catch when the
pistons are refitted. Be very careful not to nick
the cylinder walls with the end of the file.
9The entire engine block must be washed
again very thoroughly with warm, soapy
water, to remove all traces of the abrasive grit
produced during the honing operation. Note:
The bores can be considered clean when a
lint-free white cloth - dampened with clean
engine oil - used to wipe them out doesn’t
pick up any more honing residue, which will
show up as grey areas on the cloth.Be sure to
run a brush through all oil holes and galleries,
and flush them with running water.
10After rinsing, dry the block, and apply a
coat of light rust-preventive oil to all machined
surfaces. Wrap the block in a plastic bag to
keep it clean, and set it aside until
reassembly.
18 Pistons/connecting rods-
inspection
3
1Before the inspection process can be
carried out, the piston/connecting rod
assemblies must be cleaned and the original
piston rings removed from the pistons.Note:
Always use new piston rings when the engine
is reassembled.
2Using a piston ring refitting tool, carefully
remove the rings from the pistons. Be careful
not to nick or gouge the pistons in the
process (see illustration).
3Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of
the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a piece
of fine emery cloth can be used once the
majority of the deposits have been scraped
away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a
wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove
deposits from the pistons. The piston material
is soft, and may be damaged by the wire
brush.
4Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to
remove carbon deposits from the ring
grooves. Be very careful to remove only thecarbon deposits - don’t remove any metal,
and do not nick or scratch the sides of the
ring grooves (see illustration).
5Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent,
and dry them with compressed air (if
available). Make sure the oil return holes in the
back sides of the ring grooves are clear.
6If the pistons and cylinder walls aren’t
damaged or worn excessively, and if the
engine block is not rebored, new pistons
won’t be necessary. Normal piston wear
appears as even vertical wear on the piston
thrust surfaces (90° to the gudgeon pin bore),
and slight looseness of the top ring in its
groove. New piston rings, however, should
always be used when an engine is rebuilt.
7Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
around the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at the
ring lands.
8Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust
faces of the skirt, holes in the piston crown,
and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If
the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may
have been suffering from overheating and/or
abnormal combustion, which caused
excessively high operating temperatures. The
cooling and lubrication systems should be
checked thoroughly. A hole in the piston crown
is an indication that abnormal combustion (pre-
ignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the
edge of the piston crown are usually evidence
of spark knock (detonation). If any of the aboveproblems exist, the causes must be corrected,
or the damage will occur again. The causes
may include intake air leaks, incorrect fuel/air
mixture, or incorrect ignition timing. On later
vehicles with high levels of exhaust emission
control, including catalytic converters, the
problem may be with the EGR (exhaust gas
recirculation) system, where applicable.
9Corrosion of the piston, in the form of small
pits, indicates that coolant is leaking into the
combustion chamber and/or the crankcase.
Again, the cause must be corrected or the
problem may persist in the rebuilt engine.
10Measure the piston ring side clearance by
laying a new piston ring in each ring groove
and slipping a feeler gauge in beside it(see
illustration). Check the clearance at three or
four locations around each groove. Be sure to
use the correct ring for each groove - they are
different. If the side clearance is greater than
the figure listed in this Chapter’s Specifi-
cations, new pistons will have to be used.
11Check the piston-to-bore clearance by
measuring the bore (see Section 16) and the
piston diameter. Make sure the pistons and
bores are correctly matched. Measure the
piston across the skirt, at 90° to, and in line
with, the gudgeon pin (see illustration). (Any
difference between these two measurements
indicates that the piston is no longer perfectly
round.) Subtract the piston diameter from the
bore diameter to obtain the clearance. If it’s
greater than specified, the block will have to
be rebored, and new pistons and rings fitted.
2B•16 General engine overhaul procedures
18.11 Measure the piston diameter at a
90-degree angle to the gudgeon pin, at the
same height as the gudgeon pin
18.10 Check the ring side clearance with a
feeler gauge at several points around the
groove18.4 The piston ring grooves can be
cleaned with a special tool, as shown
here18.2 Removing the compression rings with
a ring expander - note the mark (arrowed)
facing up
If a groove cleaning tool isn’t available,
a piece broken off the old ring will do
the job, but protect your hands - piston
rings can be sharp

the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card.
20Make sure the bearing faces are perfectly
clean, then apply a uniform layer of
molybdenum disulphide (“moly”) grease or
engine assembly oil to both of them. You’ll
have to push the piston into the cylinder to
expose the face of the bearing shell in the
connecting rod - be sure to slip the protective
hoses over the rod bolts first, where
applicable.
21Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the journal, and remove the protective
hoses from the rod cap bolts. Refit the rod
cap, and tighten the nuts/bolts to the
specified torque.
22Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining pistons/connecting rods.
23The important points to remember are:
a) Keep the back sides of the bearing shells
and the insides of the connecting rods
and caps perfectly clean when
assembling them.
b) Make sure you have the correct
piston/rod assembly for each cylinder.
c) The notch or mark on the piston must
face the front of the engine.
d) Lubricate the cylinder walls with clean oil.
e) Lubricate the bearing faces when refitting
the rod caps after the oil clearance has
been checked.
24After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly fitted, rotate
the crankshaft a number of times by hand to
check for any obvious binding.25Check the connecting rod side play (see
Section 13).
26Compare the measured side play to the
Specifications to make sure it’s correct. If it
was correct before dismantling, and the
original crankshaft and rods were refitted, it
should still be right. If new rods or a new
crankshaft were fitted, the side play may be
incorrect. If so, the rods will have to be
removed and taken to a machine shop for
attention.
27 Initial start-up and running-
in after overhaul
1
Warning:Have a fire extinguisher
handy when starting the engine
for the first time.
1Once the engine has been refitted in the
vehicle, double-check the engine oil and
coolant levels.
2With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled (see Section 3), crank
the engine until oil pressure registers on the
gauge, or until the oil pressure warning light
goes out.
3Refit the spark plugs, connect the HT leads,
and restore the ignition system functions (see
Section 3).
4Start the engine. It may take a few
moments for the fuel system to build uppressure, but the engine should start without
a great deal of effort. Note: If backfiring
occurs through the throttle body or
carburettor, check the valve timing (check that
the timing chain/belt has been correctly fitted),
the firing order (check the fitted order of the
spark plug HT leads), and the ignition timing.
5After the engine starts, it should be allowed
to warm up to normal operating temperature.
While the engine is warming up, make a
thorough check for fuel, oil and coolant leaks.
6Shut the engine off and recheck the engine
oil and coolant levels.
7Drive the vehicle to an area with minimum
traffic, accelerate at full throttle from 30 to
50 mph, then lift off the throttle completely,
and allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph with
the throttle closed. Repeat the procedure
10 or 12 times. This will load the piston rings,
and cause them to seat properly against the
cylinder walls. Check again for oil and coolant
leaks.
8Drive the vehicle gently for the first
500 miles (no sustained high speeds) and
keep a constant check on the oil level. It is not
unusual for an engine to use oil during the
running-in period.
9At approximately 500 to 600 miles, change
the oil and filter.
10For the next few hundred miles, drive the
vehicle normally - don’t nurse it, but don’t
abuse it, either.
11After 2000 miles, change the oil and filter
again. The engine may now be considered to
be fully run-in.
2B•22 General engine overhaul procedures

3General
Coolant capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Thermostat rating
Opening temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°C (176°F)
Fully open at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100°C (212°F)
Cooling fan thermo-switch - switching temperatures
Low-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91°C (196°F)
High-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99°C (210°F)
Torque wrench settingsNm
Mechanical cooling fan clutch-to-water pump securing
nut (left-hand thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Mechanical cooling fan-to-clutch bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Water pump bolts
Small bolts (M6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Large bolts (M8) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Thermostat housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
Air conditioner receiver-drier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Air conditioning blower motor (E28/”old-shape” 5-series
models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Air conditioning compressor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Air conditioning condenser - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Air conditioning system - precautions and maintenance . . . . . . . . . 12
Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Coolant temperature sender unit - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling)See Chapter 1Engine cooling fan(s) and clutch - check, removal and refitting . . . . 5
Evaporator matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater and air conditioner control assembly - removal and refitting 10
Heater and air conditioning blower motor - removal,testing and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Heater matrix - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Thermostat - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Water pump - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
3•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
1 General information
Engine cooling system
All vehicles covered by this manual employ
a pressurised engine cooling system, with
thermostatically-controlled coolant circulation.
An impeller-type water pump mounted on
the front of the block pumps coolant through
the engine. The coolant flows around each
cylinder, and towards the rear of the engine.
Cast-in coolant passages direct coolantaround the intake and exhaust ports, near the
spark plug areas, and in close proximity to the
exhaust valve guides.
A wax-pellet-type thermostat is located in-
line in the bottom hose on M10 engines, in a
housing near the front of the engine on M20
and M30 engines, or behind an elbow under
the timing belt upper cover (on the front of the
cylinder head) on M40 engines. During warm-
up, the closed thermostat prevents coolant
from circulating through the radiator. As the
engine nears normal operating temperature,
the thermostat opens and allows hot coolant
to travel through the radiator, where it’s
cooled before returning to the engine.The pressure in the system raises the
boiling point of the coolant, and increases the
cooling efficiency of the radiator. The cooling
system is sealed by a pressure-type cap. If
the system pressure exceeds the cap
pressure relief value, the excess pressure in
the system forces the spring-loaded valve
inside the cap off its seat, and allows the
coolant to escape through the overflow tube.
The pressure cap on four-cylinder models is
on the top of the radiator; on six-cylinder models,
it’s on top of a translucent plastic expansion
tank. The cap pressure rating is moulded into the
top of the cap. The pressure rating is either
1.0 bar (14 psi) or 1.2 bars (17 psi).

Warning: Do not remove the
pressure cap from the radiator or
expansion tank until the engine
has cooled completely and
there’s no pressure remaining in the
cooling system. Removing the cap from a
hot engine risks personal injury by
scalding.
Heating system
The heating system consists of a blower fan
and heater matrix located in the heater box,
with hoses connecting the heater matrix to the
engine cooling system, and the heater/air
conditioning control head on the dashboard.
Hot engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix passages all the time the engine
is running. Switching the heater on opens a
flap door to direct air through the heater
matrix, and the warmed air enters the
passenger compartment. A fan switch on the
control head activates the blower motor,
which forces more air through the heater
matrix, giving additional heater output for
demisting, etc.
Air conditioning system
The air conditioning system consists of a
condenser mounted in front of the radiator, an
evaporator mounted adjacent to the heater
matrix, a compressor mounted on the engine,
a filter-drier (receiver-drier) which contains a
high-pressure relief valve, and the plumbing
connecting all of the above components.
A blower fan forces the warmer air of the
passenger compartment through the
evaporator matrix (a radiator-in-reverse),
transferring the heat from the air to the
refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils off into
low-pressure vapour, taking the heat with it
when it leaves the evaporator.
Note: Refer to the precautions at the start
of Section 12 concerning the potential
dangers associated with the air conditioning
system.
2 Antifreeze-
general information
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin
or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. If
consumed, antifreeze can be fatal;
children and pets are attracted by its
sweet taste, so wipe up garage floor and
drip pan coolant spills immediately. Keep
antifreeze containers covered, and repair
leaks in your cooling system as soon as
they are noticed.
The cooling system should be filled with a
60/40% water/ethylene-glycol-based anti-
freeze solution, which will prevent freezing
down to approximately -27°C (-17°F). The
antifreeze also raises the boiling point of thecoolant, and (if of good quality) provides
protection against corrosion.
The cooling system should be drained,
flushed and refilled at the specified intervals
(see Chapter 1). Old or contaminated
antifreeze solutions are likely to cause
damage, and encourage the formation of rust
and scale in the system. Use distilled water
with the antifreeze, if available, or clean
rainwater. Tap water will do, but not if the
water in your area is at all “hard”.
Before adding antifreeze, check all hose
connections, because antifreeze tends to
search out and leak through very minute
openings. Engines don’t normally consume
coolant, so if the level goes down, find the
cause and correct it.
The antifreeze mixture should be
maintained at its correct proportions; adding
too much antifreeze reduces the efficiency of
the cooling system. If necessary, consult the
mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container
before adding coolant. Hydrometers are
available at most car accessory shops to test
the coolant. Use antifreeze which meets the
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.
3 Thermostat-
check and renewal
1
Warning: Do not remove the
radiator cap, drain the coolant, or
renew the thermostat until the
engine has cooled completely.
Check
1Before assuming the thermostat is to blame
for a cooling system problem, check the
coolant level, drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1)
and temperature gauge (or warning light)
operation.
2If the engine seems to be taking a long time
to warm up (based on heater output or
temperature gauge operation), the thermostat
is probably stuck open. Renew the
thermostat.
3If the engine runs hot, use your hand to
check the temperature of the upper radiator
hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is,
the thermostat is probably stuck closed,preventing the coolant inside the engine from
circulating to the radiator. Renew the
thermostat.
Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle
without a thermostat. The engine
will be very slow to warm-up in
cold conditions, resulting in poor
fuel economy and driveability. A new
thermostat is normally an inexpensive
component anyway.
4If the upper radiator hose is hot, it means
that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat
is at least partly open. Consult the “Fault
finding” Section at the rear of this manual for
cooling system diagnosis.
Renewal
All models
5Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
6Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If
the coolant is relatively new or in good
condition, save it and re-use it.
M10 engines
7The thermostat is located in the bottom
hose. First remove the cooling fan.
8Note the fitted position of the thermostat,
then unscrew the hose clamps and withdraw
the thermostat from the hose connections
(see illustration).
9Refit the thermostat-to-hose connections,
and tighten the hose clamps.
10Refit the cooling fan.
M20 and M30 engines
11Loosen the hose clamp (see illustration),
then detach the hose(s) from the thermostat
cover.
3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
3.11 On M20 and M30 engine models,
loosen the hose clamp (A) and disconnect
the hose from the thermostat housing
cover - note that the coolant temperature
sender unit (barely visible behind the fuel
pressure regulator) is located at the top of
the thermostat housing (B)
3.8 On the M10 (four-cylinder) engine, the
thermostat (arrowed) is connected in-line
in the radiator hose

12If the outer surface of the fitting that
mates with the hose is deteriorated (corroded,
pitted, etc.), it may be damaged further by
hose removal. If it is, a new thermostat
housing cover will be required.
13Remove the bolts and detach the housing
cover. If the cover is stuck, tap it with a soft-
faced hammer to jar it loose. Be prepared for
some coolant to spill as the gasket seal is
broken.
14Note how it’s fitted, then remove the
thermostat.
15Stuff a rag into the engine opening, then
remove all traces of old gasket material (if the
gasket is paper type). Otherwise, remove the
rubber O-ring (see illustration)and sealant
from the housing and cover with a gasket
scraper. Remove the rag from the opening
and clean the gasket mating surfaces.
16Fit the new thermostat and gasket in the
housing. Make sure the correct end faces out
- the spring end is normally directed towards
the engine.
17Refit the cover and bolts. Tighten the
bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
M40 engines
18Remove the cooling fan and timing belt
upper cover.
19Unscrew the hose clamp and detach thebottom hose from the elbow on the front of
the cylinder head.
20Unbolt the elbow from the cylinder head.
Note the fitted position of the thermostat, then
remove it (see illustrations). Remove the
rubber O-ring; a new one will be needed for
reassembly.
21Locate the thermostat in the cylinder head
in the same position as noted during removal
(arrow pointing upwards).
22Press a new O-ring in the groove, and
locate the elbow on the cylinder head. Tighten
the bolts.
23Connect the bottom hose to the elbow,
and tighten the hose clamp.
24Refit the upper timing belt cover and
cooling fan.
All models
25Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
26Connect the battery negative cable.
27Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks and proper thermostat operation (as
described earlier in this Section).
4 Radiator-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.Note: If the radiator is being removed because
it is leaking, note that minor leaks can often be
repaired without removing the radiator, using
a radiator sealant.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If
the coolant is relatively new, or in good
condition, save it and re-use it.
3Loosen the hose clamps, then detach the
hoses from the radiator (see illustrations). If
they’re stuck, grasp each hose near the end
with a pair of water pump pliers, twist gently
to break the seal, then pull off - be careful not
to distort or break the radiator outlets! If the
hoses are old or deteriorated, cut them off
and refit new ones.
4On M20 and M30 engines, disconnect the
reservoir hose from the radiator filler neck.
5Remove the screws or plastic fasteners that
attach the shroud to the radiator, and slide the
shroud towards the engine (see illustration).
On some engines it is possible to completely
remove the shroud.
6If the vehicle has automatic transmission,
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3
3.20b Removing the thermostat
(M40 engine)3.20a Removing the elbow from the
cylinder head (M40 engine)3.15 On M20 and M30 engine models,
after the housing and thermostat have
been removed, take the O-ring out of the
housing and clean the recess in the
housing to be sure of a good seal upon
reassembly
4.5 Plastic fastener retaining the radiator
shroud on some engines4.3b Bottom hose connection to the
radiator4.3a Disconnecting the top hose from the
radiator
3

disconnect the fluid cooler lines from the
radiator. Use a drip tray to catch spilled fluid.
Plug the fluid cooler lines and fittings.
7Disconnect the coolant sensors located on
the radiator (see illustration). The thermo-
statically-controlled switches for high- and
low-speed operation of the auxiliary fan are
located in the radiator tanks, in various
locations depending on engine and model.
8Remove the radiator mounting bolt(s). The
mountings are either on the top or sides of the
radiator (see illustration).
9Carefully lift out the radiator from the
bottom mountings, taking care not to damage
the cooling fins. Don’t spill coolant on the
vehicle, or scratch the paint.
10With the radiator removed, it can be
inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs
repair, have a specialist perform the work, as
special techniques are required.
11Flies and dirt can be removed from the
radiator with compressed air and a soft brush.
Don’t bend the cooling fins as this is done.
12Check the radiator mountings for
deterioration, and renew if necessary (see
illustration).
Refitting
13Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
14After refitting, fill the cooling system with
the proper mixture of antifreeze and water.
Refer to Chapter 1 if necessary.15Start the engine and check for leaks.
Allow the engine to reach normal operating
temperature, indicated by the upper radiator
hose becoming hot. Recheck the coolant
level, and add more if required.
16If you’re working on an automatic
transmission model, check and add
transmission fluid as needed.
5 Engine cooling fan(s) and
clutch- check, removal and
refitting
1
Warning: To avoid possible injury
or damage, DO NOT operate the
engine with a damaged fan. Do
not attempt to repair fan blades -
fit a new fan. Also, the electric auxiliary fan
in front of the radiator or air conditioning
condenser can come on without the
engine running or ignition being on. It is
controlled by the coolant temperature of
the thermo-switches located in the
radiator.
Check
Electric auxiliary fan
Note: This fan on most models is controlled
by two thermo-switches placed in the radiator:
one for low-speed/low-temperature operation,
and one for high-speed/high-temperature
operation. Each switch comes on at a different
coolant temperature (refer to the Specifica-
tions at the beginning of this Chapter).
1The thermostatically-controlled switches for
high- and low-speed operation of the auxiliary
fan are fitted in various locations in the
radiator (see illustration 4.7), depending on
engine or model. Two single switches, or one
dual switch, may be fitted.
2Insert a small screwdriver into the
connector to lift the lock tab, and unplug the
fan wire harness.
3To test the fan motor, unplug the electrical
connector at the motor, and use jumper wires
to connect the fan directly to the battery. If the
fan doesn’t work when connected directly to
the battery, the motor is proved faulty, and
must be renewed. If the fan works, there’s agood chance the switch is malfunctioning. To
more accurately diagnose the problem, follow
the steps that apply to your model. Note: Spin
the auxiliary fan motor by hand, to check that
the motor or fan isn’t binding. Make sure,
however, that the engine is sufficiently cool
that there is no danger of the fan cutting-in on
its own when this is done.
4To test the low-speed and high-speed
circuits, disconnect the electrical connector
from one of the fan switches, and bridge the
terminals of the switch’s electrical connector
with a short piece of wire. The fan should run
at low or high speed, depending on which
switch has been disconnected. On some
models the ignition must be on before the fan
will run.
5Repeat the test at the other switch so that
both high and low speeds are tested.
6If the low-speed and high-speed circuits
are OK, but there has been a problem with the
fan not operating correctly in service, renew
the switch (or switches). To remove a switch,
drain the coolant below the level of the switch
(see Chapter 1), then unscrew the switch and
screw in the new one. Refill the system with
coolant.
7If the switches are satisfactory, but the
motor still does not operate, the problem lies
in the fuse, the relay, the wiring which
connects the components (or the fan motor
itself). Carefully check the fuse, relay, all
wiring and connections. See Chapter 12 for
more information on how to carry out these
checks.
Mechanical fan with viscous clutch
8Disconnect the battery negative cable, and
rock the fan back and forth by hand to check
for excessive bearing play.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
9With the engine cold, turn the fan blades by
hand. The fan should turn with slight
resistance.
10Visually inspect for substantial fluid
leakage from the fan clutch assembly. If
problems are noted, renew the fan clutch
assembly.
11With the engine completely warmed up,
turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the
battery negative cable. Turn the fan by hand.
Heavier resistance should be evident. If the
fan turns easily, a new fan clutch may be
needed.
Removal and refitting
Electric auxiliary fan
12Disconnect the battery negative cable.
13To remove the auxiliary fan follow the
procedure that applies to your vehicle.
3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
4.12 When the radiator is out, the radiator
mountings can be inspected - check for
signs of deterioration, and renew them, if
needed
4.8 The radiator is bolted to the front
panel at either the sides or the top of the
radiator4.7 Sensors that control the high- and
low-speed operation of the auxiliary
cooling fan are located in various places in
the radiator tanks

M20 engine
9Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
ignition rotor and dust shield (see Chapter 1).
10Where applicable, remove the timing
sensor (see Chapter 5).
11Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Chapter 2A).
12Loosen all three water pump mounting
bolts. Remove the top and right-hand side
bolts, but DON’T remove the lower bolt (see
illustration).
13Rotate the pump downwards, and remove
the drivebelt tensioner spring and pin.
14 Remove the final water pump bolt, and
remove the pump.
Caution: Leave the tensioner bolt
tight. Be careful to not move the
camshaft gear, as damage can
occur if the valves are moved.
M30 engine
15Remove the engine lifting bracket.
16Remove the bolts that mount the water
pump to the engine block.
17Remove the water pump, and recover the
gasket.
M40 engine
18Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the water pump. If the pump is tight in the
cylinder head, insert two bolts in the special
lugs at the top and bottom of the pump, and
tighten them evenly to press the pump out of
the head (see illustrations).
Refitting
19Clean the bolt threads and the threaded
holes in the engine to remove corrosion and
sealant.
20Compare the new pump to the old one, to
make sure they’re identical.
21Remove all traces of old gasket material
from the engine with a gasket scraper.
22Clean the water pump mating surfaces.
23On the M40 engine, locate a new O-ring
on the pump (see illustration).
24Locate the gasket on the pump, and offer
the pump up to the engine (see illustration).
Slip a couple of bolts through the pump
mounting holes to hold the gasket in place.
25Carefully attach the pump and gasket to
the engine, threading the bolts into the holes
finger-tight.Note:On the M20 engine, refit the
lower bolt finger-tight, then rotate the water
pump into position with the drivebelt tensioner
spring and pin in position.
26Refit the remaining bolts (if they also hold
an accessory bracket in place, be sure to
reposition the bracket at this time). Tighten
them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications, in quarter-turn increments.
Don’t overtighten them, or the pump may be
distorted.
27Refit all parts removed for access to the
pump.
28Refill the cooling system and check the
drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1). Run the
engine and check for leaks.8 Coolant temperature sender
unit- check and renewal
2
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.
1The coolant temperature indicator system
is composed of a temperature gauge
mounted in the instrument panel, and a
coolant temperature sender unit that’s
normally mounted on the thermostat housing
(see illustration 3.11). Some vehicles have
more than one sender unit, but only one is
used for the temperature gauge. On the M40
engine, the sender unit is mounted on the left-
hand side of the cylinder head, towards the
rear.
2If the gauge reading is suspect, first check
the coolant level in the system. Make sure the
wiring between the gauge and the sending
unit is secure, and that all fuses are intact. (If
the fuel gauge reading is suspect as well, the
problem is almost certainly in the instrument
panel or its wiring.)
3Before testing the circuit, refer to the
relevant wiring diagrams (see Chapter 12).
Where the sender unit simply earths out the
circuit, test by earthing the wire connected to
the sending unit while the ignition is on (but
without the engine running, for safety). If the
gauge now deflects to the end of the scale,
renew the sender unit. If the gauge does not
respond satisfactorily, the gauge, or the wiring
to the gauge, is faulty. Where the sender unit
has two terminals, test the circuit by checking
the resistance of the unit. No figures were
available at the time of writing, but typically
readings of several hundred or several
thousand ohms (depending on temperature)
would be expected. A reading of zero (short-
circuit) or infinity (open-circuit) would indicate
a faulty sender unit.
Caution: Do not earth the wire
for more than a second or two, or
damage to the gauge could
occur.
3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
7.24 New outer gasket on the M40 engine
water pump7.23 Fit a new O-ring on the M40 engine
water pump
7.18b . . . and remove the water pump
(M40 engine)7.18a With the water pump mounting bolts
removed, screw two bolts into the special
lugs (one top and one bottom) . . .7.12 Water pump bolt locations on the
M20 engine