brake light BMW 5 SERIES 1991 E34 Owner's Manual

simply unscrew it. Plug the open fitting in the
caliper if the hose is removed for any length of
time, to prevent dirt ingress.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Make sure the brackets are in
good condition and the locknuts are securely
tightened. Renew the spring clips if they don’t
fit tightly.
6Carefully check to make sure the
suspension and steering components do not
make contact with the hoses. Have an
assistant turn the steering wheel from lock-to-
lock during inspection.
7Bleed the brake system as described in
Section 16.
Metal brake line renewal
8When renewing brake lines, use genuine
parts only - preferably from a BMW dealer.
9Genuine BMW brake lines are supplied
straight. You’ll need a pipe-bending tool to
bend them to the proper shape.
10First, remove the line you intend to renew,
lay it on a clean workbench and measure it
carefully. Obtain a new line of the same
length, and bend it to match the pattern of the
old line.
Warning: Do not crimp or
damage the line. No bend should
have a smaller radius than
14 mm. Make sure the protective
coating on the new line is undamaged at
the bends.
11When fitting the new line, make sure it’s
well supported by the brackets, that the
routing matches the original, and that there’s
plenty of clearance between movable
components or those components which will
become hot.
12After refitting, check the master cylinder
fluid level, and add fluid as necessary. Bleed
the brake system as outlined in Section 16,
and test the brakes carefully before driving the
vehicle. Be sure there are no leaks.
16 Brake hydraulic system-
bleeding
3
Warning: Wear eye protection
when bleeding the brake system.
If the fluid comes in contact with
your eyes, immediately rinse
them with water, and seek medical
attention. Most types of brake fluid are
highly flammable, and may ignite if spilled
onto hot engine components, for example.
In this respect, brake fluid should be
treated with as much care as if it were
petrol. When topping-up or renewing the
fluid, always use the recommended type,
and ensure that it comes from a freshly-
opened sealed container. Never re-use old
brake fluid bled from the system, and don’t
top-up with fluid which has been standing
open for a long time, as it is potentially
dangerous to do so.
Note:Bleeding the hydraulic system is
necessary to remove any air which has
entered the system during removal and
refitting of a hose, line, caliper or master
cylinder.
1It will probably be necessary to bleed the
system at all four brakes if air has entered the
system due to low fluid level, or if the brake
lines have been disconnected at the master
cylinder.
2If a brake line was disconnected at only one
wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder
need be bled.
3If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting
located between the master cylinder and any
of the brakes, that part of the system served
by the disconnected line must be bled.
4Bleed the right rear, the left rear, the right
front and the left front brake, in that order,
when the entire system is involved.
5Remove any residual vacuum from the
brake servo by applying the brakes about 30
times with the engine off. This will also relieve
any pressure in the anti-lock brake system
(where applicable).
6Remove the master cylinder reservoir
cover, and fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
Refit the cover. Note:Check the fluid level
often during the bleeding operation, and add
fluid as necessary to prevent the fluid level
from falling low enough to allow air into the
master cylinder.
7Have an assistant on hand, an empty clear
plastic container, and a length of clear plastic
or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleed screws.
Alternatively, a “one-man” bleeding kit can be
used. A “one-man” kit usually contains a tubeor bottle with a one-way valve incorporated -
in this way, the pedal can be pumped as
normal, but air is not drawn back into the
system when the pedal is released. If a one-
man kit is used, follow the instructions
provided with it; similarly with pressure
bleeding kits. In any case, you will also need a
supply of new brake fluid of the
recommended type, and a spanner for the
bleed screw.
8Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the
bleed screw slightly, then tighten it to a point
where it is tight but can still be loosened
quickly and easily.
9Place one end of the tubing over the bleed
nipple, and submerge the other end in brake
fluid in the container (see illustration).
10Have the assistant pump the brakes a few
times, then hold the pedal firmly depressed.
Note:If the vehicle is equipped with ABS,
have the assistant pump the pedal at least 12
times.
11While the pedal is held depressed, open
the bleed screw just enough to allow a flow of
fluid to leave the caliper or wheel cylinder.
Your assistant should press the brake pedal
smoothly to the floor, and hold it there. Watch
for air bubbles coming out of the submerged
end of the tube. When the fluid flow slows
after a couple of seconds, close the screw
and have your assistant release the pedal.
12Repeat paragraphs 10 and 11 until no
more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten
the bleed screw and proceed to the left rear
wheel, the right front wheel and the left front
wheel, in that order, and perform the same
procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir frequently.
Warning: Never re-use old brake
fluid. It absorbs moisture from
the atmosphere, which can allow
the fluid to boil and render the
brakes inoperative.
13Refill the master cylinder with fluid at the
end of the operation.
14Check the operation of the brakes. The
pedal should feel solid when depressed, with
no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire
process. Do not operate the vehicle if you are
in doubt about the effectiveness of the brake
system.
9•14 Braking system
16.9 Place one end of the tubing over the
bleed screw, and submerge the other end
in brake fluid in the container
15.3 A typical brake line-to-brake hose
connection: To disconnect it, use one
spanner to hold the hex-shaped fitting on
the end of the flexible hose (lower right
arrow) and loosen the threaded fitting on
the metal line with a split ring (“brake”)
spanner (upper right arrow), then remove
the spring clip (left arrow)
Brake fluid is an effective
paint stripper, and will attack
plastics; if any is spilt, wash it
off immediately with copious
amounts of water.

13 Headlights- adjustment
2
Note:The headlights must be aimed correctly.
If adjusted incorrectly, they could momentarily
blind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and
cause a serious accident, or seriously reduce
your ability to see the road. The headlights
should be checked for proper aim every
12 months (as is done during the MOT test),
and any time a new headlight is fitted or front-
end body work is performed. It should be
emphasised that the following procedure will
only provide a temporary setting until the
headlights can be adjusted by a properly-
equipped garage.
1Each headlight has two adjusting screws,
one controlling up-and-down movement and
one controlling left-and-right movement (see
illustration). It may be necessary to remove
the grille (see Chapter 11) for access to these
screws.
2There are several methods of adjusting the
headlights. The simplest method requires a
blank wall (or garage door) 25 feet in front of
the vehicle, and a level floor.
3Position masking tape vertically on the wall,
to mark the vehicle centreline and the
centreline of both headlights. Note:It may be
easier to position the tape on the wall with the
vehicle parked only a few inches away, and
then move the vehicle back the required
distance when all marks have been made.
4Make a horizontal line on the wall to mark
the centreline of all headlights.
5Move the vehicle back so that it is 25 feet
away from the marked wall (keep the front end
of the vehicle square to the wall). Adjustment
should be made with the vehicle sitting level,
the fuel tank half-full, and with no unusually
heavy loads in the vehicle.
6Switch on the dipped beam. The bright
spots on the wall should be two inches below
the horizontal line, and two inches to the left
of the headlight vertical lines. Adjustment is
made by turning the adjusting screw to raise
or lower the beam. The other adjusting screwshould be used in the same manner to move
the beam left or right.
7With main beam on, the bright spots on the
wall should be exactly on the vertical lines,
and just below the horizontal line. Note:It may
not be possible to position the headlight aim
exactly for both main and dipped beams. If a
compromise must be made, keep in mind that
the dipped beam is most used, and will have
the greatest effect on driver safety.
8Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer
service department or qualified garage at the
earliest opportunity.
14 Headlight housing-
removal and refitting
1
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have
the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery, Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.2Remove the side grille (see Chapter 11),
then remove the rear cover(s) where
necessary.
3Unplug the headlight (sealed beam-type) or
remove the bulb (halogen bulb-type).
4Remove the screws and detach the housing
(see illustration).
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
15 Bulb renewal
1
1The lenses of many lights are held in place
by screws, which makes it a simple procedure
to gain access to the bulbs.
2On some lights, the lenses are held in place
by clips. The lenses can be removed by using
a small screwdriver to prise them off.
3Several bulbs are mounted in self-earthing
holders, and are removed by pushing in and
turning them anti-clockwise (see illustration).
The bulbs can then be removed (see
illustrations).
4The tail lights on 3-Series models are
accessible after removing the housing, then
removing the bulbs (see illustrations).
5To gain access to the facia lights, the
instrument cluster will have to be removed
first (see illustration).
12•6 Body electrical systems
15.3c . . . then pull the bulb from the
holder15.3b On models with high-mounted
centre brake lights, the self-earthing
holder is accessible from the luggage area
- pull the holder out . . .15.3a The tail light bulbs on later 5-Series
models are in self-earthing holders which
can be simply pulled out of the housing -
the bulb is then removed from the holder
14.4 Remove the screws (arrowed) and
detach the headlight housing13.1 The headlight adjustment screws
(arrowed) are accessible from the back of
the headlight on 3-Series models

12Refitting is a reversal of removal. When
fitting the motor, if necessary plug in the
connector and run the motor briefly until it is
in the “neutral” (wiper parked) position.
17 Heated rear window-
check and repair
2
1The heated rear window consists of a
number of horizontal elements on the glass
surface.
2Small breaks in the element can be repaired
without removing the rear window.
Check
3Switch on the ignition and the heated rear
window.
4Place the positive lead of a voltmeter to the
heater element nearest to the incoming power
source.
5Wrap a piece of aluminium foil around the
negative lead of the voltmeter on the positive
side of the suspected broken element, and
slide it slowly towards the negative side.
Watch the voltmeter needle - when it moves
from zero, you have located the break.
Repair
6Repair the break in the line using a repair kit
recommended specifically for this purpose,
such as BMW repair kit No. 81 22 9 (or
equivalent). Included in this kit is plastic
conductive epoxy. The following paragraphs
give general instructions for this type of repair;
follow the instructions supplied with the repair
kit if they are different.
7Prior to repairing a break, switch off the
circuit and allow it to cool down for a few
minutes.
8Lightly buff the element area with fine steel
wool, then clean it thoroughly.
9Use masking tape to mask off the area of
repair, leaving a slit to which the epoxy can be
applied.
10Mix the epoxy thoroughly, according to
the instructions on the package.
11Apply the epoxy material to the slit in the
masking tape, overlapping the undamaged
area about 20 mm on each end.12Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours
before removing the tape and using the
heated rear window.
18 Supplemental Restraint
System (SRS)- general
information
Later models are equipped with a
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS),
incorporating an airbag. This system is
designed to protect the driver from serious
injury in the event of a head-on or frontal
collision. It consists of an airbag module in the
centre of the steering wheel, two crash
sensors mounted on the front inner wing
panels, and a crash safety switch located
inside the passenger compartment.
The airbag module contains a housing
incorporating the airbag and the inflator units.
The inflator assembly is mounted on the back
of the housing over a hole through which gas
is expelled, inflating the bag almost instanta-
neously when an electrical signal is sent from
the system. This signal is carried by a wire
which is specially wound with several turns,
so the signal will be transmitted regardless of
the steering wheel position.
The SRS system has three sensors: two at
the front, mounted on the inner wing panels
(see illustration), and a safety switch located
inside the passenger compartment. The crash
sensors are basically pressure-sensitive
switches, which complete an electrical circuit
during an impact of sufficient force. The
electrical signal from the crash sensors is sent
to a third sensor, which then completes the
circuit and inflates the airbag.
The module containing the safety switch
monitors the system operation. It checks the
system every time the vehicle is started,
causing the AIRBAG warning light to come on,
then go out if the system is operating
correctly. If there is a fault in the system, the
light will stay on. If the AIRBAG warning light
does stay on, or if it comes on while driving,
take the vehicle to your dealer immediately.
19 Cruise control system-
description and check
1
The cruise control system maintains vehicle
speed using a vacuum-actuated servo motor
located in the engine compartment, which is
connected to the throttle linkage by a cable.
The system consists of the servo motor,
clutch switch, brake switch, control switches,
a relay, and associated vacuum hoses.
Because of the complexity of the cruise
control system, repair should be left to a
dealer service department. However, it is
possible for the home mechanic to make
simple checks of the wiring and vacuum
connections for minor faults which can be
easily repaired. These include:
a) Inspect the cruise control actuating switches
for broken wires and loose connections.
b) Check the cruise control fuse.
c) The cruise control system is operated by
vacuum, so it’s critical that all vacuum
switches, hoses and connections are
secure. Check the hoses in the engine
compartment for loose connections,
cracks, or obvious vacuum leaks.
20 Central locking system-
description and check
2
The central door locking system operates
the door lock actuators mounted in each
door. The system consists of the switches,
actuators and associated wiring. Diagnosis is
limited to simple checks of the wiring
connections and actuators for minor faults
which can be easily repaired. These include:
a) Check the system fuse and/or circuit
breaker (where applicable).
b) Check the switch wires for damage and
loose connections. Check the switches
for continuity.
c) Remove the door trim panel(s), and check
the actuator wiring connections to see if
they’re loose or damaged. Inspect the
actuator rods to make sure they aren’t
12•8 Body electrical systems
18.3 The SRS system crash sensors
(arrowed) are located in the engine
compartment - check the wiring regularly
for damage16.11b Tailgate wiper motor (5-Series)16.11c Wiper blade and pivot mechanism
on the rear window (5-Series)

REF•1
REF
MOT Test Checks
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeMTest the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
MCheck that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
MDepress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.MCheck that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
MCheck the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
MExamine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
MMove the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
MCheck that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormalmovement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
MThe windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

REF•2MOT Test Checks
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair
tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,
19, 21, 22, 24 & 26 mm
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
MTransmission drain plug key (Allen type)
MSet of feeler gauges
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x
6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you
cannot afford a socket set, even bought
piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box
spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need
to be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drillsMSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustrations)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
MValve spring compressor (see illustration)
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor (see illustration)
MPiston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
MCylinder bore hone (see illustration)
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
REF•5
REF
Tools and Working Facilities
Sockets and reversible ratchet driveSpline bit set

REF•8General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of legis-
lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

REF•9
REF
Fault Finding
Engine
m mEngine will not rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine hard to start when cold
m mEngine hard to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mOil puddle under engine
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misses at idle speed
m mEngine misses throughout driving speed range
m mEngine misfires on acceleration
m mEngine surges while holding accelerator steady
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mPinking or knocking engine sounds when accelerating
or driving uphill
m mEngine runs with oil pressure light on
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
Engine electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold charge
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light fails to go out
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light fails to come on
when key is turned
Fuel system
m mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCoolant loss
m mPoor coolant circulation
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mFluid in area of master cylinder dust cover and on pedal
m mFluid on slave cylinder
m mPedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m mUnable to select gears
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase in
vehicle speed)
m mGrabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged
m mNoise in clutch area
m mClutch pedal stays on floor
m mHigh pedal effort
Manual transmission
m
mVibration
m mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mNoisy in all gears
m mSlips out of gear
m mLeaks lubricant
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has a burned smell
m mGeneral shift mechanism problems
m mTransmission will not kickdown with accelerator pedal
pressed to the floor
m mEngine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive
in forward or reverse gears
Brakes
m mVehicle pulls to one side during braking
m mNoise (high-pitched squeal) when the brakes are applied
m mBrake vibration (pedal pulsates)
m mExcessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mDragging brakes
m mGrabbing or uneven braking action
m mBrake pedal feels “spongy” when depressed
m mBrake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance
m mHandbrake does not hold
Suspension and steering
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mAbnormal or excessive tyre wear
m mWheel makes a “thumping” noise
m mShimmy, shake or vibration
m mHigh steering effort
m mPoor steering self-centring
m mAbnormal noise at the front end
m mWandering or poor steering stability
m mErratic steering when braking
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or
during braking
m mSuspension bottoms
m mUnevenly-worn tyres
m mExcessive tyre wear on outside edge
m mExcessive tyre wear on inside edge
m mTyre tread worn in one place
m mExcessive play or looseness in steering system
m mRattling or clicking noise in steering gear

REF•11
REF
Fault Finding
Engine misses at idle speed
m mSpark plugs worn or incorrectly-gapped (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leaks (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low compression (Chapter 2).
m mFaulty charcoal canister, where fitted (Chapter 6).
Engine misses throughout driving speed range
m
mFuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
m mLow fuel output at the injectors, or partially-blocked carburettor
jets (Chapter 4).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mCracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor HT leads, or
damaged distributor components (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty emission system components (Chapter 6).
m mLow or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).
m mWeak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).
m mVacuum leak in fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum
hoses (Chapter 4).
Engine misfires on acceleration
m mSpark plugs fouled (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mFuel filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mIntake manifold air leak (Chapter 4).
Engine surges while holding accelerator steady
m
mIntake air leak (Chapter 4).
m mFuel pump faulty (Chapter 4).
m mLoose fuel injector harness connections (Chapters 4 and 6).
m mDefective ECU (Chapter 5).
Engine lacks power
m
mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mExcessive play in distributor shaft (Chapter 5).
m mWorn rotor, distributor cap or HT leads (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mFaulty coil (Chapter 5).
m mBrakes binding (Chapter 1).
m mAutomatic transmission fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mClutch slipping (Chapter 8).
m mFuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
m mEmission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mLow or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).
Engine stalls
m
mIdle speed incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mFuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system
(Chapter 1).
m mDistributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty emissions system components (Chapter 6).
m mFaulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak in the fuel injection system, intake manifold or
vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).
Engine backfires
m mEmissions system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator,
faulty plug HT leads, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at fuel injector(s), intake manifold or vacuum hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mValve clearances incorrect (Chapter 1), or valve(s) sticking or
damaged (Chapter 2).
Pinking or knocking engine sounds when
accelerating or driving uphill
m mIncorrect grade of fuel.
m mIgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 5).
m mFuel injection system or carburettor in need of adjustment (Chap-
ter 4).
m mDamaged spark plugs or HT leads, or incorrect type fitted (Chapter 1).
m mWorn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty emission system (Chapter 6).
m mVacuum leak (Chapter 4).
Engine runs with oil pressure light on
Caution: Stop the engine immediately if the oil
pressure light comes on and establish the cause.
Running the engine while the oil pressure is low can
cause severe damage.
m mLow oil level (Chapter 1).
m mIdle speed too low (Chapter 1).
m mShort-circuit in wiring (Chapter 12).
m mFaulty oil pressure sender unit (Chapter 2).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
Engine runs-on after switching off
m
mIdle speed too high (Chapter 1).
m mExcessive engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mIncorrect fuel octane grade.
m mSpark plugs defective or incorrect grade (Chapter 1).
Engine electrical system
Battery will not hold charge
m
mAlternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).
m mElectrolyte level low (Chapter 1).
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mAlternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).
m mLoose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter 5).
m mShort in vehicle wiring (Chapters 5 and 12).
m mInternally-defective battery (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mIgnition (no-charge) warning light bulb blown - on some early
models (Chapter 5)
Ignition (no-charge) warning light fails to go out
m mFaulty alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5).
m mAlternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
m mAlternator voltage regulator inoperative (Chapter 5).
Ignition (no-charge) warning light fails to come on
when key is turned
m mWarning light bulb defective (Chapter 12).
m mFault in the printed circuit, wiring or bulbholder (Chapter 12).

REF•18Automotive chemicals and lubricants
A number of automotive chemicals and
lubricants are available for use during vehicle
maintenance and repair. They include a wide
variety of products ranging from cleaning
solvents and degreasers to lubricants and
protective sprays for rubber, plastic and
vinyl.
Cleaners
Carburettor cleaner and choke cleaner
is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and
carbon. Most carburettor cleaners leave a
dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or
gum up. Because of this film, it is not
recommended for use on electrical
components.
Brake system cleaneris used to remove
grease and brake fluid from the brake system,
where clean surfaces are absolutely
necessary. It leaves no residue, and often
eliminates brake squeal caused by
contaminants.
Electrical cleaner removes oxidation,
corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical
contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also
be used to clean spark plugs, carburettor jets,
voltage regulators and other parts where an
oil-free surface is desired.
Moisture dispersantsremove water and
moisture from electrical components such as
alternators, voltage regulators, electrical
connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-
conductive and non-corrosive.
Degreasersare heavy-duty solvents used
to remove grease from the outside of the
engine and from chassis components. They
can be sprayed or brushed on, and are usually
rinsed off with water.
Lubricants
Engine oilis the lubricant formulated for
use in engines. It normally contains a wide
variety of additives to prevent corrosion and
reduce foaming and wear. Engine oil comes in
various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to
60. The recommended weight of the oil
depends on the season, temperature and the
demands on the engine. Light oil is used in
cold climates and under light load conditions.
Heavy oil is used in hot climates, and where
high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity
(multigrade) oils are designed to have
characteristics of both light and heavy oils,
and are available in a number of weights from
5W-20 to 20W-50.
Gear oilis designed to be used in
differentials, manual transmissions and other
areas where high-temperature lubrication is
required.
Chassis and wheel bearing greaseis a
heavy grease used where increased loads and
friction are encountered, such as for wheel
bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal
joints.High-temperature wheel bearing grease
is designed to withstand the extreme
temperatures encountered by wheel bearings
in disc brake-equipped vehicles. It usually
contains molybdenum disulphide (moly),
which is a dry-type lubricant.
White greaseis a heavy grease for metal-
to-metal applications where water is a
problem. White grease stays soft at both low
and high temperatures, and will not wash off
or dilute in the presence of water.
Assembly lubeis a special extreme-
pressure lubricant, usually containing moly,
used to lubricate high-load parts (such as
main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for
initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly
lube lubricates the parts without being
squeezed out or washed away until the engine
oiling system begins to function.
Silicone lubricants are used to protect
rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.
Graphite lubricantsare used where oils
cannot be used due to contamination
problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite
will lubricate metal parts while remaining
uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It
is electrically conductive, and will not foul
electrical contacts in locks such as the
ignition switch.
Penetrating oilsloosen and lubricate
frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and
prevent future rusting or freezing.
Heat-sink greaseis a special electrically
non-conductive grease that is used for
mounting electronic ignition modules where it
is essential that heat is transferred away from
the module.
Sealants
RTV sealantis one of the most widely-
used gasket compounds. Made from silicone,
RTV is air-curing; it seals, bonds, waterproofs,
fills surface irregularities, remains flexible,
doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove,
and is used as a supplementary sealer with
almost all low- and medium-temperature
gaskets.
Anaerobic sealantis much like RTV in that
it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form
gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent-
resistant, and fills surface imperfections. The
difference between an anaerobic sealant and
an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV
cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic
sealant cures only in the absence of air. This
means that an anaerobic sealant cures only
after the assembly of parts, sealing them
together.
Thread and pipe sealant is used for
sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and
vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon
compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on
liquid and as a wrap-around tape.
Chemicals
Anti-seize compoundprevents seizing,
chafing, cold welding, rust and corrosion in
fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize,
usually made with copper and graphite
lubricants, is used for exhaust system and
exhaust manifold bolts.
Anaerobic locking compoundsare used
to keep fasteners from vibrating or working
loose, and cure only after installation, in the
absence of air. Medium-strength locking
compound is used for small nuts, bolts and
screws that may be removed later. High-
strength locking compound is for large nuts,
bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a
regular basis.
Oil additivesrange from viscosity index
improvers to chemical treatments that claim
to reduce internal engine friction. It should be
noted that most oil manufacturers caution
against using additives with their oils.
Fuel additivesperform several functions,
depending on their chemical make-up. They
usually contain solvents that help dissolve
gum and varnish that build up on carburettor,
fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve
to break down carbon deposits that form on
the inside surfaces of the combustion
chambers. Some additives contain upper
cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings,
and others contain chemicals to remove
condensation from the fuel tank.
Miscellaneous
Brake fluidis specially-formulated
hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and
pressure encountered in brake systems. It is
poisonous and inflammable. Care must be
taken so this fluid does not come in contact
with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened
container should always be resealed, to
prevent contamination by water or dirt. Brake
fluid absorbs moisture from the air, if left in an
unsealed container.
Weatherstrip adhesiveis used to bond
weatherstripping around doors, windows and
boot lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim
pieces.
Undersealis a petroleum-based, tar-like
substance that is designed to protect metal
surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from
corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening
agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle.
Waxes and polishesare used to help
protect painted and plated surfaces from the
weather. Different types of paint may require
the use of different types of wax and polish.
Some polishes utilise a chemical or abrasive
cleaner to help remove the top layer of
oxidised (dull) paint on older vehicles. In
recent years, many non-wax polishes
containing a wide variety of chemicals such as
polymers and silicones have been introduced.
These non-wax polishes are usually easier to
apply, and last longer than conventional
waxes and polishes.