Gas BMW 528i 1997 E39 User Guide

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General
Cars with discharged or dead batteries can be jump-started
using the good battery from another car. See owner's manual
for proper instruction on jump starting. When jump-starling
the engine, always note the following warnings.
4 Lower car. With all wheels on ground, fully tighten nuts in a
WARNING-
* Battery acid (electrolyte) can cause severe burns, and will
damage the
cal; clothing, and you. If electrolyte is spilled,
wash the surface with large quantities of water.
M itgets into
eyes, flush them with water for several minutes and call a
doctor.
B4
5
43
2 BOOIFNG.
Batteries produce explosive and noxious gasses.
Keeps sparks and flames away. Do not smoke near
batteries.
Do notjump-start the engine
ifyou suspect that the bat-
tery is frozen. Trappedgas may explode. Allow the bat-
tery to thaw first.
Do not quick-charge the battery (for boost starting) for
longer than one minute, and do not exceed
16.5 volts
at the battery with the boosting cables attached. Wait at
least one minute before boosting the battery a second
time.
crisscross pattern.
Torque wheel nuts when installing wheel.
Check inflation pressure of spare tire.
Tightening torque
Wheel to wheel hub 120 Nm (89 ft-ib)
Jump starting
Indicator and warning lights
Many vehicle systems are self-monitored for faults while driv-
ing. Generally,
a red warning lamp that comes on during driv-
ing should be considered serious. If you cannot immediately
determine the seriousness of the warning light, stop the vehi-
cle in a safe place and turn the engine off as soon as possible.
Consult the owner's manual for additional information on the
warning lamp and the recommended action.
If the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
(Check Engine or Ser-
vice Engine Soon warning light) comes on orflashes, it indi-
cates that an emissions-related fault has occurred. Faults
such as a bad oxygen sensor or a dead fuel injector can
cause the exhaust or evaporative emissions to exceed a
specified limit. When these limits are exceeded, the MIL will
be turned on. The engine can be safety driven with the light
on, although the emission systems should be
checked as
soon as possible. See OBD On-Board Diagnostics for

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Maintenance
BODY AND INTERIOR MAINTENANCE
Body and hinges, lubricating
Door locksand loclccylinderscan be lubricated with an oil that
contains graphite.
Body and doorhinges, hood latch and doorcheclc rods should
be lubricated with
SAE 30 or SAE 40 engine oil. Lubricate
seat runners with multipurposegrease. Do not apply any oil to
rubber parts.
If door weather-strips are sticking, lubricate
them with silicone spray or talcum powder. The hood release
cable should be lubricated as well.
The use of winter
lock deicer sprays should be lkept to an
absolute minimum, as the alcohol in the deicer will wash the
grease out of the lock assemblies and may cause locks to
corrode internally or to become difficult to operate.
Exterior washing
The longer dirt is left on the paint, the greater the risk of dam-
aging theglossy finish,
eitherby scratching or by thechemical
effect dirt particles may have on the painted surface.
Do not wash the car in direct sunlight. If the engine hood is
warm, allow it to cool. Beads of water not only leave spots
when dried rapidly by the sun or heat from theengine, but also
can act as small magnifying glasses and burn spots into the
finish. Wash the car with a mixture of lukewarm water and a
car wash product. Rinse using plenty of clear water. Wipe the
body dry with a sofl cloth towel or chamois to prevent
water-spotting.
Interior care
Dirt spots can usually be removed with lultewarm soapy water
or a dry foam cleaner. Use spot remover for grease and oil
spots. Do not pour the liquid directly on the carpet or fabric,
but dampen a clean cloth and rub carefully, starting at the
edge of the spot and working inward. Do not use gasoline,
naphtha, or other flammable substances.
Leather upholstery and trim
Leather upholstery and trim should be periodically cleaned
using a slightly damp cotton or wool cloth. The idea is to get
rid of the dirt in the creases and pores that can cause brittle-
ness and premature aging. On heavily soiled areas, use a
mild detergent (such as
wooliteQ) or other specially formulat-
ed leather cleaners. Dry the trim and upholstery completely

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020-32
Maintenance
using a soft cloth. Regular use of a good quality leather condi-
tioner will reduce drying and cracking of the leather.
Polishing
Use paint polish only if the finish assumes a dull loolc afler
long service. Polish can be used to remove tar spots and tar-
nish, but
afleiwards a coat of waxshould be applied to protect
the clean finish. Do not use abrasive polish or cleaners on
aluminum trim or accessories.
Seat belts
Dirt and other abrasive particles will damage seat belt web-
bing. If it is necessary to clean seat belts, use a mild soap so-
lution. Bleach and other strong cleaning agents may weaken
the belt webbing and should be avoided.
WARNING-
Do not clean the seat belt webbing using dry cleaning or oth-
er chemicals. Allow wet belts to
dry before allowing them to
retract.
-
The condition of the belt webbing and the function of the re-
tractor mechanisms should be inspected. See
720 Seat Belts
for seat belt inspection information.
Speciai cieaning
Tarspots can be removed with a bug and tar remover. Never
use gasoline,
lterosene, nail polish remover, or other unsuit-
able solvents. Insect spots also respond to tar remover.
A bit
of baking soda dissolved in the wash water will facilitate their
removal. This method can also be used to remove tree sap
spots.
Washing chassis
Periodic washing of the underside of the car, especially in
winter, will help prevent accumulation of road salt and rust.
The best time to wash the underside is just afler the car has
been driven in wet conditions. Spray the chassis with a pow-
erful jet of water. Commercial or self-service carwashes may
not be bestforthis, as they may recycle the salt-contaminated
water.
Waxing
For a long-lasting, protective, and glossy finish, apply a hard
wax after the car has been washed and dried. Use carnauba
or synthetic based products. Waxing is not needed after
every washing. You can tell when waxing is required by
look-

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110-3
Engine Removal and lnstallationl
Q Fuel line plugs
(Tool No.
BMW 13 5 281 / 13 5 282)
4 Fuel line removal tool
(Tool No.
BMW 16 1 050)
CAUTION-
Disconnecting the battery may erase fault code@) storedin
memoiy Check for fault codes prior to disconnecting the
battery cables.
If the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light, also may be
called "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light)
is illuminated, see
OBD On-Board Diagnostics for
DME fault code information.
It orhersysrem faults have been detected, as indicated I
by an ~llum~nated ABS, SRS orASC/DSC ~arning light,
see the appropriate repair group in this manual or an
authorized BMW dealer for more information on fault
codes.
NOTE- Engine removal procedures are similar for all 6-cylinder
models. When differences
exist, they are noted at the be-
ginning of each step. Engine are referred to by engine
code. See
100 Engine-General for engine code and appli-
cation information.
@ Be sure to cover all painted surfaces before beginning the
removal procedure. As an aid to installation, label all com-
ponents, wires and hoses before removing them. Do not
reuse
gaskets, O-rings or seals during reassembly.
The
intake manifold must be removed on &cylinder mod-
els before the engine can be removed.
WARNING-
Due to risk of personal injury, be sure the engine is cold be-
fore beginning the removal procedure.

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11 0-4
/Engine Removal and Installation
- Disconnect negative (-) cable from battery.
CAUTION- Prior to disconnecting the
batteg read the battery discon-
nection cautions
in 001 General Cautions and Warnings.
- Remove engine hood, or place in service position. See 410
Fenders, Engine Hood.
4 Remove left and right interior ventilation ducts (lefl side
shown):
Release ventilation filter cover latch (A) and remove cover.
Release plastic loclting tab
(6) or release locking tabs on
top of duct (later models).
Rotate duct counterclocltwise to
unloclt from bulkhead and
remove (arrow).
Disconnect electrical harness from hood switch (C).
Release spring
loclt (D).
Slide filter housing away from inner fender to remove.
Removal of right side ventilation duct is similar.
Remove rear bulkhead panel:
Remove rubber sealing gasket (arrow).
- Remove 3 mounting clips (A).
Remove
4 retaining screws (6).
Lift off panel.
Remove complete air filter housing:
Loosen
intalte duct hose clamp (A) at throttle assembly.
Loosen clamp and remove idle control line from intalte duct
(6) and (where applicable) disconnect idle speed control
valve electrical harness connector.
Disconnect harness connector (C) from mass air flow sen-
sor.
Remove air filter housing mounting screw (D).
Disconnect vent tube
(E).
Loosen air intake duct clamp (F).
Carefully lift air filter housing out of engine bay.

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110-15
Engine Removal and lnstallation
- Installation is reverse of removal, noting the following:
Replace all gaskets. O-rings and seals.
Use new fuel injector seals
Check that engine drive belts properly engage pulley
grooves.
Inspect O-ring seal between mass air flow sensor and air
filter housing. To facilitate reassembly, coat seal with acid-
free grease.
Change engine oil and filter and
check all other fluid levels.
See
020 Maintenance.
Refill and bleed cooling system. See
170 Radiator and
Cooling System.
CAUTION--
When reattaching throttle assembly harness connectoc con-
nector is
fuNy tightened when arrows on connector and plug
line up.
Tightening torques
Coolant drain plug to cylinder block
25 Nm (18 ft-lb)
Engine mount to
subframe (M10) 45 Nm (33 ft-ib)
Exhaust manifold to cylinder head
M6 10 Nm (89 in-lb)
M7 or ME 20 Nm (15 ft-lb)
Intake manifold to cylinder head
M7 15 Nm (I 1 ft-lb)
ME 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)
Radiator cooling fan to coolant pump
40 Nm (30 ft-lb)
Radiator drain screw to radiator
2.5 Nm (22 in-lb)

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110-16
Engine Removal and Installation
ENGINE, REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION (V-8 MODELS)
NOTE-
Engine removal procedures are similar for all V-8 models.
When differences exist, they are noted at the beginning of
each step. Engine are referred to by engine code. If neces-
sary, See
100 Engine-General for engine code andappli-
cation information.
Be sure to cover all painted surfaces before beginning the
removal procedure. As an aid to installation, label all com-
ponents, wires and hoses before removing them. Do not
reuse gaskets, O-rings or seals during reassembly
WARNING
-
Due to risk ofpersonal injury, be sure the engine is cold be-
fore beginning the
removal procedure.
- Disconnect negative (-) cable from battery.
Prior to disconnecting the battery, read the battery discon-
nection cautions given in
001 General Cautions and
Warnings.
- Remove engine hood or place hood in service position. See
410 Fenders, Engine Hood.
Remove
intake manifold cover, version 1:
Remove plastic trim caps (arrows).
Remove cover mounting fasteners and
lift off cover.
Remove intake manifold cover, version
2:
Press down on locking pins (arrows) to release locks
Lifl cover straight
up to remove.

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--
-- Engine Removal and installation' -
Remove polyribbed A/C compressor belt:
Mark direction of belt travel if belts are to be reused.
Loosen bolts
(A).
Turn adjusting lug (B) clocltwise to release belt tension.
Working beneath car, remove power steering pump and air
conditioner compressor. Suspend from body using stiff wire.
Remove exhaust manifolds. See
180 Exhaust System.
< lnstall engine lifting device (BMW 11 0 000 or equivalent) to
front and rear engine supports and raise engine until it's
weight is supported. Detach engine mounts.
a Watch carefully for hoses and electrical wires that might
snag.
- installation is reverse of removal:
Replace all gaskets, O-rings and seals.
V-8 engine mounts have two sets of mounting holes. E39
cars use front most mounting holes.
* On cars with automatic transmission, use new O-rings at
ATF cooler lines.
Use new alignment sleeves when installing transmission.
Be sure engine drive belts properly engage pulley grooves.
When installing belt, preload tensioner to stop (toward
belt), then tighten tensioner clamping nut.
lnstall front exhaust pipes using new gasltets and copper
paste and new mounting hardware. See
180 Exhaust
System.
Change engine oil and filter. Check all other fluid levels as
described in
020 Maintenance.
Refill and bleed cooling system as described in
170 Radi-
ator and Cooling System.
CAUTION-
Do not interchange knoclc sensor harness connectors. Seri-
ous engine damage may result

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11 3-2
Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
This group covers cylinder head removal and installation as
well as cylinder
headlvalve diagnostic procedures.
In the procedures in this repair group, engines are referred to
by engine code. If necessary, see
100 Engine-General for
engine code and application information.
The information given in this repair group assumes that the
engine is installed in the engine bay. On the
6-cylinder en-
gines, the VANOS control unit must be removed in orderto re-
move the cylinder head from the engine block. On
M52TU
and M54 engines, camshafts must be removed from the cylin-
der head before the head is removed.
The cylinder head removal and installation procedures for the
M62 V-8 are also included, butthe proceduresforthe M62TU
V-8 with VANOS are not provided.
For cylinder head and valvetrain reconditioning information,
see
116 Cylinder Head and Valvetrain.
For specific repair procedures, refer to the appropriate repair
group:
020 Maintenance
116 Cylinder Head and Valvetrain
117 Camshaft Timing Chain
170 Radiator and Cooling System
610 Component locations
NOTE-
If a head gasket problem is suspected, a compression test or
leak-down test will usually detect the fault See Diagnostic
Testing later
in this group.
Special tools
Special BMW service tools are required to properly remove
and install the cylinder head on engines covered by this man-
ual. The special tools are used to time the valvetrain to the
crankshaft, and to remove the VANOS control unit, the cam-
shafts and the
Tom (El2) head bolts. Read the entire proce-
dure through before beginning the job.

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. .- . --
Lr -- - - - -- Cylinder Head Removal and Installation I -
- Release pressure at compression gauge valve, then remove
gauge from spark plug hole. Repeat test for each cylinder
and compare results with values given in Table a.
Table a. Compression testing specifications
Minimum compression
6-cylinder
10-1 1 bar (142-156 psi)
V-8 12-14 bar (174-203 psi)
Maximum difference between
cylinders (all engines)
0.5 bar (7 psi)
- Compression readings may be interpreted as follows:
Low compression indicates a poorly sealed combustion
chamber.
0 Relatively even pressures that are below specification nor-
mally indicate worn piston rings
andlor cylinder walls.
Erratic values tend to indicate valve leakage.
Dramatic differences between cylinders are often a sign of
a failed head
gasket, burned valve, or broken piston ring.
- If readings are within specifications, reinstall spark plugs and
ignition coils.
NOTE-
Used spark plugs should be reinstalled in the same cylinder
from which they were removed.
Tightening torque Spark plug to cylinder head 25 Nm
(18 ft-lb)
lanition coils to cylinder head 10 Nm (7.5 ft-lb)
- Remainder of installation is reverse of removal. Be sure to re-
install all wires disconnected during test, especially ground
wires at coils and cylinder head cover (where applicable).
Wet compression test
To further help analyze the source of poorcompression,awet
compression test is the next step.
- Repeat compression test, this time squirt a teaspoon of oil
into each cylinder. The oil will temporarily help seal between
piston rings and cylinder wall, practically eliminating leakage
past rings for a short time.
- If this test yields a higher reading than "dry" compression
test, there is probably leakage between piston rings and
cylinder walls, due either to wear or to broken piston rings.
- Little or no change in compression reading indicates other
leakage, probably from valves.