brake light BUICK CENTURY 1994 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: BUICK, Model Year: 1994, Model line: CENTURY, Model: BUICK CENTURY 1994Pages: 308, PDF Size: 16.3 MB
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And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of
the road (whether it’s pavement or
gravel); the condition
of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire
tread; and the condition
of your brakes.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in
spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking
-- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a
mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between
hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you
do a
lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the
traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will
eliminate a lot
of unnecessary braking. That means
better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake
normally but don’t pump your brakes.
If you do, the
pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine
stops,
you will still have some power brake assist. But
you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is
used up, it may take longer
to stop and the brake pedal
will be harder to push.
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
Your Buick has an advanced electronic braking system
that will help prevent skidding.
ANTI-
LOCK
This light on the
instrument panel will
go on when
you start
your vehicle.
When you start your vehicle, or when you begin to drive
away,
you may hear a momentary motor or clicking
noise. And you may even notice that your brake pedal
moves a little while this is going on. This
is the ABS
system testing itself. If there’s a problem with the
anti-lock brake system, the anti-lock brake system warning light
will stqy on or flash.
See “Anti-lock Brake System Warning Light” in
the
Index.
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Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need
to get your foot up to the brake pedal. If you get too
close
to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time
to apply your brakes
if that vehicle suddenly slows or
stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even
though you have anti-lock brakes.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
To Use Anti-Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down
and let anti-lock
work for you. You may feel the system
working, or
you may notice some noise, but this is
normal. When your anti-lock system is adjusting brake
pressure to help avoid a braking skid, the
“LOW
TRACTION” light will come on. See “Anti-Lock Brake
System Active Light”
in the Index.
Braking in Emergencies
Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to.
With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same
time. In many emergencies, steering can help
you more
than even
the very best braking.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws
of physics when driving on curves. The
traction of the tires against the road surface makes
it
possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn
the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep
the vehicle going
in the same direction. If you’ve ever
tried to steer
a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this.
The traction
you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at
which
the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you’re
in a curve, speed is the one factor you can
control.
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Page 153 of 308

e If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait
your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to
pass you as you pull
out to pass the slow vehicle.
Remember to glance over your shoulder and check
the blind spot.
e Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and
start your left lane change signal before moving out
of the right lane to pass. When
you are far enough
ahead of the passed vehicle to see
its front in your
inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal
and move back into the right lane. (Remember that
your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you
just passed may seem to be farther away from you
than
it really is.)
two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next
vehicle.
Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on
e Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lights are
not flashing, it may
be slowing down or starting to
turn.
If you’re being passed, make it easy for the
following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you
can ease a
little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering
and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the
tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give
up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area
of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those Conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types
of skids correspond to your Buick’s
three control systems. In the braking skid your wheels
aren’t rolling. In the steering
or cornering skid, too
much speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to slip and
lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too
much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
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Page 170 of 308

The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for
hitches.
Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer
so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety
chains
to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes
so
you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them
properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try
to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both
brake systems won’t work well, or at all.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel
of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly
so
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform,
safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and
mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start
your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the
trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are
working. This lets
you check your electrical connection
at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help
you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
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Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to
your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left.
To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and,
if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects.
Avoid jerky
or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a
different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows
on your instrument panel
will flash whenever
you signal
a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lights
will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your
instrument panel
will flash for turns even if the bulbs on
the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may
think drivers
behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure
the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade.
If you don’t shift
down, you might have
to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long
uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around 45
mph (70 km/h) to reduce the
possibility
of engine and transaxle overheating.
If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,000
pounds (450
kg) and you have an automatic transaxle
with Overdrive, you may prefer to drive in “D” instead
of Overdrive.
An overdrive transmission is required if
towing a trailer more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg).
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should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means
that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well,
or
won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’
your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a
leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then
you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake
linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as
necessary, only when work
is done on the brake
hydraulic system.
When
your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake
warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning
Light” in the Index.
What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake
fluid
-- such as Delco Supreme 11 @ (GM Part
No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed
container only, and always clean the brake fluid
reservoir cap before removing it.
NOTICE:
DOT-5 silicone brake fluid can damage
your vehicle. Don’t use
it.
a Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of
fluid. For example,
just a few drops of
mineral-based
oil, such as engine oil, in
your brake system can damage brake
system parts
so badly that they’ll have to
be replaced.
Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful
not to spill brake
fluid on your vehicle. If
,you do, wash it off immediately. See
“Appearance Care” in the Index.
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Brake Wear
Your Buick has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make
a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are
worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come
and
go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving
(except when
you are pushing on the brake pedal
firmly).
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads
could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something
is wrong with
your brakes.
Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if
you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear
brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums
should be removed and inspected each time the tires are
removed for rotation or changing. When you have the
front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected,
too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or
if there is a rapid increase in pedal
travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you apply the brakes moderately, with or
without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.
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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts,
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new
GM original
equipment parts. This way,
you will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your Buick
model.
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer
calibration, headlight aim, bumper height, vehicle
ground clearance, and tire
or tire chain clearance
to the body and chassis.
Used Replacement Wheels
Tire Chains
NOTICE:
Use tire chains only where legal and only when
you must. Use only
SAE Class “S” type chains
that are the proper size for your tires. Install
them on the front tires and tighten them as
tightly
as possible with the ends securely
fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer’s instructions.
If you can hear the
chains contacting your vehicle, stop and
retighten them.
If the contact continues, slow
down
until it stops. Driving too fast with chains
on will damage your vehicle.
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r Fuse Usage
I
Fuse Amp Circuitry
1 15 ECM, MAF Sensor (3 100 Engine only)
2 20 ECM Injectors/Coil
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
I 16
5
15
10
20
20
10
20 20
30"
5
10
30"
25
20
Automatic Door LockAJnlock
Turn Signal Flasher, Back-up Lights, Trunkbiftgate Release
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (Air Bag)
Tail, Park, Side Marker, License Plate, Stop/Turn Signal Heater/Air Conditioner
Gages, Warning Indicators, Torque Convert Clutch, Audible Warning\
System, Computer Command
Control, Trunk Release, Brake Warning Indicator, Rear Defog Swit\
ch, Speedometer
Stop Lights, Hazard Flashers
Interior, Underhood, Courtesy,
I/P, Trunk Lights, Door Locks, Horn Relay, Passive Restraint System, \
Deck
Lid Release, Power Antenna
Liftgate Release, Power Windows
Illumination for:
I/P, Radio, Pod Lights, Ashtray, Console Light, Heater-A/C Control, D\
efog Switch,
Headlight Switch
Radio, Cruise Control
Seats, Door Locks, Rear Defog
Windshield WipefWash
Cigarette Lighter
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CHECK OR SERVICE
Steering, Suspension and
Front-Wheel-
Drive Axle Boot
and Seal
Inspection
Exhaust System
Inspection
Throttle Linkage
Inspection
WHAT TO DO
Inspect the front and rear suspension and
steering system
for damaged, loose or
missing parts, signs of wear, or lack of
lubrication. Inspect the power steering
lines and hoses for proper hookup,
binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc.
Clean and
then inspect the drive axle
boot seals
for damage, tears or leakage.
Replace seals if necessary.
Inspect the complete exhaust system.
Inspect the body near the exhaust
system. Look for broken, damaged,
missing or out-of-position parts as
well
as open seams, holes, loose connections,
or other conditions which could cause a
heat build-up
in the floor pan or could let
exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See
“Engine Exhaust”
in the Index.
Inspect the throttle linkage for
interference
or binding, and for
damaged
or missing parts. Replace
parts as needed.
CHECK OR
SERVICE
Brake System
Inspection
WHAT TO DO
Inspect the complete system. Inspect
brake lines and hoses for proper
hookup, binding, leaks, cracks,
chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for
wear and rotors for surface condition.
Also inspect drum bmke linings for
wear and cracks. Inspect other brake
parts, including drums, wheel
cylinders, calipers, parking brake, etc.
Check parking brake adjustment.
You
may need to have your brakes inspected
more often if your driving habits or
conditions result
in frequent braking.
NOTE: A low brake fluid level can
indicate worn disc brake pads which
may need
to be serviced, Also, if the
brake system warning
light stays on or
comes on, something may be wrong
with the brake system. See “Brake
System Warning Light”
in the Index. If
your anti-lock brake system warning
light stays on, comes on
or flashes,
something may be wrong with
the
anti-lock brake system. See “Anti-Lock
Brake System Warning Light”
in the
Index.
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