tow BUICK RAINIER 2004 Service Manual

How to Inspect
To inspect the air cleaner/lter, remove the lter from
the vehicle and lightly shake lter to release loose dust
and dirt. If the lter remains caked with dirt, a new
lter is required.
To inspect or replace the lter, do the following:
1. Remove the screws on the engine cleaner/lter and
lift off the cover.
2. Remove the air cleaner/lter from the housing. Care
should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.
3. Install the new engine air cleaner/lter.
4. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/lter
off can cause you or others to be burned. The
air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to
stop ame if the engine backres. If it is not
there and the engine backres, you could be
burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful
working on the engine with the air
cleaner/lter off.Notice:If the air cleaner/lter is off, a backre
can cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt
can easily get into your engine, which will damage
it. Always have the air cleaner/lter in place
when you are driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the uid and lter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the uid and lter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The automatic
transmission dipstick
handle with the
transmission and lock
symbol is located in the
engine compartment
on the passenger’s
side of the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-14for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again. Check both sides of the
dipstick, and read the lower level.3. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push
the dipstick back in all the way; then ip the
handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission uid to use. SeeRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
Add uid only after checking the transmission uid while
it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.)
If the uid level is low, add only enough of the proper
uid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot
check. It doesn’t take much uid, generally less than
one pint (0.5 L).Don’t overll.
Notice:We recommend you use only uid labeled
DEXRON
®-III, because uid with that label is
made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by uid other than DEXRON
®-III
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
After adding uid, recheck the uid level as
described under “How to Check″.
When the correct uid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-26

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in neutral while
stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to
PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped,
pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, you can push down
the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice
as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you’re parked. If you still have the warning,
turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle
until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ller neck.8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ow out of the
ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
the pressure cap is hand-tight.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions
the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading,
trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
5-38

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more
uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The rst rotation
is the most important. SeeScheduled Maintenance
on page 6-4.
When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation
pattern shown here.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear ination pressures as shown on the
Certication/Tire label or the Tire and Loading
Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 5-113.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to,
to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a
Flat Tire” in the Index.
5-69

If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-78

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you will need is stored under
the rear seat on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
SeeRear Seat Operation on page 1-5. To release
the jack from its holder, turn the knob on the jack
counterclockwise to lower the jack head.The tools you’ll be using include the wheel wrench (A),
wheel blocks (B), extension (socket end) (C), handle
(jack end) (D), and jack (E).
The following instructions explain how to remove the
spare tire mounted underneath your vehicle.
Notice:If you remove or restow a tire from/to
the storage position under the vehicle when it is
supported by a jack, you could damage the
tire and/or your vehicle. Always remove or restow
a tire when the vehicle is on the ground.
5-80

3. Put the spare tire near the at tire.
4. Position the chisel end of your wheel wrench in the
notch of the center cap and pry off the center cap.
See “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the
Spare Tire” later in this section to continue changing
the at tire.Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system.
It’s designed to stop the spare or at road tire
from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding
the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to
work, the tire must be stowed with the valve stem
pointing up. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools”
for instructions on storing the spare or at tire correctly.
{CAUTION:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly
and you and others could get hurt. Read and
follow the instructions listed below.
5-82

6. Attach the jack handle, extension and the wheel
wrench to the jack and place it under the vehicle
towards the front of the rear bumper. Position
the center lift point of the jack under the center of
the spare tire.7. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it
lifts the end tting.
8. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops
moving upward and is held rmly in place. The
secondary latch has released and the spare tire is
balancing on the jack.
9. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the
spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by
the cable.
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7. Remove any rust
or dirt from the
wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to,
to get all the rust or dirt off.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
8. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.
9. Put the nuts on by
hand. Make sure
the rounded end is
toward the wheel.
10. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held
against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand,
use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon
as possible.
5-88