trailer CADILLAC ESCALADE EXT 2008 3.G Owner's Manual

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you
will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the
GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight,
too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-35for more
information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to
a maximum of 600 lbs (272 kg) with a weight carrying
hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to
the maximum of 1,000 lbs (454 kg) with a weight
distributing hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle.
This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight
on the rear axle.
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After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry
tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle
to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or
the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect
of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity
more than the total of the additional weight.
Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg);
2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of
7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg)
and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of
14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent
of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the
weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on
the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself,
as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear
axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg).
Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg),
adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs
(1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for
RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to
8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
But let’s say your specic vehicle is equipped with
some of the latest options and you have a front seat
passenger and two rear seat passengers with some
luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may
add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and
400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle
now weighs:
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Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may
think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds
(318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within
GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be
7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you
must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to
avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the
effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now
weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs
(408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.
The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only
way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings
is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on
the Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s
door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Then
be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t
go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight
distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
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Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must
be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the
same both before and after coupling the trailer to the
tow vehicle.If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh
more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when driving. You should always use a sway control
if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can
ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly. (A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle
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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require heavy
braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good
deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond
the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower
gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode”
earlier.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant at higher altitudes
will boil at a lower temperature than at or near sea level.
If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at
high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may
show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this,
let the engine run while parked (preferably on level
ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P)
for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you
do get the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating
on page 5-26.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid (don’t overll
or underll), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling
system and brake system. Each of these is covered in
this manual, and the Index will help you nd them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal
heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to the rear
bumper beam. It is located next to the integrated
trailer hitch.The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer
circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red w/ Black Stripe: Battery Feed*
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake*
*The fuses for these two circuits are installed in the
underhood electrical center, but the wires are not
connected. They should be connected by your dealer or
a qualied service technician.
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, press
the tow/haul mode button located at the end of the shift
lever. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and
properly charge the battery.
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Electric Brake Control Wiring
Provisions
These wiring provisions are included with your vehicle
as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package.
These provisions are for an electric brake controller.
The red/black stripe power feed will not be connected
to the battery until the ring terminal is unstowed and
connected to the underhood electrical center. The
instrument panel contains blunt cut wires near the
data link connector for the trailer brake controller.
The harness contains the following wires:
Dark Blue: Auxiliary
Red/Black: Battery
Light Blue/White: Brake Switch
White: Ground
It should be installed by your dealer or a qualied
service center.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of
the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the
weight of the people inside, but you can gure about
150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must
not be more than your vehicles CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so that
you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using
a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the
spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information seeTowing a Trailer on page 4-43.
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Notice:If your engine catches re because you
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. SeeOverheated Engine
Protection Operating Mode on page 5-28for
information on driving to a safe place in an
emergency.
If No Steam Is Coming From
Your Engine
The ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or the
ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message,
along with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious
problem.
If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. SeeTowing a Trailer on page 4-43.If you get the ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or
the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message
with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. If the vehicle has an air conditioner and it is on,
turn it off.
2. Turn on the heater to the highest temperature and
at the highest fan speed and open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle immediately.
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