brake CHEVROLET ASTRO 2004 Owner's Guide

If you'll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh
more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg.), be sure to use a
properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when you're driving. You should always use a sway
control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits.
You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you're using the wiring provided with the
factory-installed trailering package, you should not need
to make any holes in the body of your vehicle.
However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed, you
may need to make holes in the body.
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you
remove the hitch. If you don't seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle as well as dirt and water. See ªCarbon
Monoxideº under
Engine Exhaust on page 2-26.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Followthe manufacturer's recommendation for attaching safety
chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig.
Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes Ð and they must
be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle's
hydraulic brake system, except:
·Don't tap into your vehicle's brake system if the
trailer's brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic
inch (0.3 cc) of ¯uid from your vehicle's master
cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won't work
well. You could even lose your brakes.
·Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of
pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not
be used with your vehicle.
·If everything checks out this far, then make the
brake ¯uid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sends ¯uid to the rear brakes. But don't use
copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and
®nally break off. Use steel brake tubing.
4-40

Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can not see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. See
Engine
Exhaust on page 2-26
. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
·Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
·Keep the rear-most windows closed.
·If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum air
because it only recirculates the air inside
your vehicle. See Climate Control System
in the Index.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
4-41

Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring (included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will ¯ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ¯ash, telling other drivers
you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ¯ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It's
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g.,
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
4-42

When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, see
Engine Overheating on
page 5-27.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
·start your engine,
·shift into a gear, and
·release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
4-43

Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission ¯uid (don't over®ll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you ®nd them quickly. If
you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
If you have the optional trailering package, your vehicle
will have an eight-wire harness, including the center
high-mounted stoplamp battery feed wire. The harness
is stored on the passenger's side of the vehicle near
the rear wheel well. This harness has a 30 amp battery
feed wire and no connector, and should be wired by
a quali®ed electrical technician. After choosing an
aftermarket trailer mating connector pair, have the
technician attach one connector to the eight-wire trailer
harness and the other connector to the wiring harness
on the trailer. Be sure the wiring harness on the trailer is
taped or strapped to the trailer's frame rail and leave
it loose enough so the wiring doesn't bend or break, but
not so loose that it drags on the ground. The eight-wireharness must be routed out of your vehicle between the
rear door and the ¯oor, with enough of the harness
left on both sides so that the trailer or the body won't pull
it. If you do not have the optional trailering package,
your vehicle will still have a trailering harness. The
harness is located near the passenger's side rear wheel
well. It consists of six wires that may be used by
after-market trailer hitch installers.
The technician can use the following color code chart
when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.
·Brown: Rear lamps.
·Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.
·Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.
·White (Heavy Gage): Ground.
·Light Green: Back-up lamps.
·White (Light Gage): Center High-Mounted Stoplamp.
·Blue: Auxiliary circuit (eight-wire harness only).
·Orange: Fused auxiliary (eight-wire harness only).
Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the
harness together and tie it neatly so it won't
be damaged.
4-44

Service............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-3
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your
Vehicle......................................................5-4
Fuel................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane............................................5-4
Gasoline Speci®cations....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-5
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-6
Filling Your Tank............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.......................5-9
Checking Things Under the Hood.....................5-9
Hood Release..............................................5-10
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-13
Engine Cover...............................................5-17
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-21
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-22
Engine Coolant.............................................5-25
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-27
Engine Overheating.......................................5-28
Cooling System............................................5-30
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-36
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-37
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-38Brakes........................................................5-39
Battery........................................................5-42
Jump Starting...............................................5-43
All-Wheel Drive..............................................5-47
Rear Axle.......................................................5-48
Front Axle......................................................5-48
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-49
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-49
Headlamps..................................................5-50
Front Turn Signal Lamps...............................5-53
Taillamps.....................................................5-54
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-55
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-56
Tires..............................................................5-56
In¯ation - Tire Pressure.................................5-66
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-68
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-69
Buying New Tires.........................................5-70
Uniform Tire Quality Grading..........................5-71
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance..................5-72
Wheel Replacement......................................5-72
Tire Chains..................................................5-74
If a Tire Goes Flat........................................5-74
Changing a Flat Tire.....................................5-75
Compact Spare Tire......................................5-86
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Never ®ll a portable fuel container while it is in
your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from
the container can ignite the gasoline vapor.
You can be badly burned and your vehicle
damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to
you and others:
·Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
·Do not ®ll a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle's trunk, pickup bed or
on any surface other than the ground.
·Bring the ®ll nozzle in contact with the
inside of the ®ll opening before operating
the nozzle. Contact should be maintained
until the ®lling is complete.
·Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under
the Hood
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts
and start a ®re. These include liquids like fuel,
oil, coolant, brake ¯uid, windshield washer and
other ¯uids, and plastic or rubber. You or
others could be burned. Be careful not to drop
or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
5-9

A. Windshield Washer Fluid. SeeWindshield Washer
Fluid on page 5-38.
B. Engine Coolant. See
Engine Coolant on page 5-25.
C. Engine Oil Dipstick. See
Engine Oil on page 5-13.
D. Transmission Dipstick. See
Automatic Transmission
Fluid on page 5-22.
E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See
Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
F. Engine Oil Fill. See
Engine Oil on page 5-13.
G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See
Brakes on
page 5-39.
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See
Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-37.
I. Battery. See
Battery on page 5-42.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to
drain back into the oil pan. If you don't, the oil
dipstick might not show the actual level.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-13

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
·Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
·With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
·With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
·Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
is located near the center
of the engine compartment
and will be labeled with
this graphic shown. See
Engine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12for
more information on
location.
·Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and
wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
·Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
·Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The ¯uid level must be in the COLD area for
a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched
area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick
pointed down to get an accurate reading.
·If the ¯uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ¯ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-24

Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ®lled with DOT-3
brake ¯uid. SeeEngine Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake ¯uid level in
the reservoir might go down. The ®rst is that the
brake ¯uid goes down to an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,
the ¯uid level goes back up. The other reason isthat ¯uid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you
should have your brake system ®xed, since a leak
means that sooner or later your brakes will not work
well, or will not work at all.
So, it is not a good idea to ªtop offº your brake ¯uid.
Adding brake ¯uid will not correct a leak. If you add ¯uid
when your linings are worn, then you will have too
much ¯uid when you get new brake linings. You should
add (or remove) brake ¯uid, as necessary, only when
work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake ¯uid, it can spill on
the engine. The ¯uid will burn if the engine is
hot enough. You or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake
¯uid only when work is done on the brake
hydraulic system. See ªChecking Brake Fluidº
in this section.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when
to check your brake ¯uid. See
Part C: Periodic
Maintenance Inspections on page 6-28.
5-39