ESP CHEVROLET AVALANCHE 2005 1.G Owner's Manual

Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the
glare from headlamps behind you.
Since you cannot see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you
and other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your
headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place
and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime.
But as we get older these differences increase.
A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much
light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect your
night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright
sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your
eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you
are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They
may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also
make a lot of things invisible.
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Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Turn on your low-beam headlamps — not just your
parking lamps — to help make you more visible to
others.
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you
pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear
room ahead, and be prepared to have your
view restricted by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-59.
City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the
amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for
what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to
traffic signals.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
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6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-34for the proper
procedure to select the neutral position for your
vehicle.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the tow vehicle.
8. Turn the ignition off and lock the steering column.
If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for
six weeks or more, remove the battery cable
from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to
prevent your battery from draining while towing.
Level Control
Self-Adjusting
The self-adjusting rear suspension may come as part of
the premium smooth ride suspension package.
This type of level control will provide a leveled riding
position as well as improved handling under a variety of
passenger and loading conditions. A hydraulic pump
inside each rear shock absorber raises the rear of
the vehicle to the proper height, based on inputs from
the road surface, while the vehicle is being driven.
It take approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) of driving for the
leveling to complete, depending on the road surface
conditions.If the loaded vehicle is not moved for approximately
12 hours, the leveling system may bleed down to a lower
height. This can be especially apparent if a trailer is
left attached to a parked vehicle for long periods of time.
The vehicle must be driven to re-level the vehicle.
If a self-equalizing hitch is being used, the vehicle
should be driven approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) with
the trailer prior to adjusting (leveling) the hitch.
Truck-Camper Loading Information
Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended to carry
a slide-in type camper.
Notice:Adding a slide-in camper or similar
equipment to your vehicle can damage it, and the
repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
Do not install a slide-in camper or similar equipment
on your vehicle.
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Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
Your vehicle is not equipped with StabiliTrak®.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the uid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and thenapply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical
connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid (don’t overll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the eight-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal
heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket
on the hitch platform.
The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is tied
next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a trailer.
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How to Check Automatic Transmission
Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the uid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting a re.
Too little uid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission uid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the uid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C
to 93°C).Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above
50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive
the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature
gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold uid check can be made after the vehicle
has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine
off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the
engine run at idle for ve minutes if outside
temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder
than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine
longer. Should the uid level be low during this cold
check, you must check the uid hot before adding uid.
Checking the uid hot will give you a more accurate
reading of the uid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
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Cold Ination Pressure:The amount of air pressure in
a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat
from driving. SeeInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66.
Curb Weight:This means the weight of a motor
vehicle with standard and optional equipment including
the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but
without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall of a
tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S.
Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle
safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire
Identication Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator
which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production
plant, brand and date of production.
GVWR:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, seeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-47.
GAWR FRT:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front
axle, seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-47.
GAWR RR:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle,
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-47.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when
mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):The metric unit for air pressure.Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:A tire used on light duty
trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index:An assigned number ranging from
1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity
of a tire.
Maximum Ination Pressure:The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire may be inated. The
maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating:The load rating for a tire at the
maximum permissible ination pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight:The sum of curb
weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight;
and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight:The number of occupants a
vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg).
SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-47.
Occupant Distribution:Designated seating positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces
outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire
that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or
bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding
that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on
the other sidewall of the tire.
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When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to
check the spare tire. For additional information
regarding the spare tire, seeSpare Tire on page 5-93.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire
pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly
inated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look
properly inated even when they’re underinated.
Check the tire’s ination pressure when the tires are
cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for
at least three hours or driven no more than
1 mile (1.6 km).
Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press
the tire gage rmly onto the valve to get a pressure
measurement. If the cold tire ination pressure matches
the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading
Information label, no further adjustment is necessary.
If the ination pressure is low, add air until you reach the
recommended amount.
If you overll the tire, release air by pushing on the
metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the
tire pressure with the tire gage.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and
moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles
(8 000 to 13 000 km).
Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as
soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also
check for damaged tires or wheels. SeeWhen It Is Time
for New Tires on page 5-69andWheel Replacement
on page 5-72for more information.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push,
pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves,
use the ratchet/wheel wrench to tighten the cable.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-75.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more
uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The rst rotation
is the most important. SeeScheduled Maintenance
on page 6-4.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Quality grades can be found where applicable on the
tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum
section width. For example:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This
applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most
passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading
system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type
snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires,
tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches
(25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger
cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these
grades, they must also conform to federal safety
requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions on a specied government test course.
For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and
a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as
a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires
depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart signicantly from the norm
due to variations in driving habits, service practices and
differences in road characteristics and climate.
Traction – AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A,
B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability
to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specied government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor
traction performance. Warning: The traction grade
assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking
traction tests, and does not include acceleration,
cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
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