tow CHEVROLET AVALANCHE 2006 1.G Manual PDF

Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
If an overheated engine condition exists and the
REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed,
an overheat protection mode which alternates ring
groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this
mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine
performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle
to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving
extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the
overheat protection mode should be avoided.
Notice:After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any
repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil
and reset the oil life system. SeeEngine Oil
on page 5-18.
Cooling System
When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what
you will see:
A. Coolant Surge Tank
B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap
C. Engine Cooling Fan5.3L V8 Engine
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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start
the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper
radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant
surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank
until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the
pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
Engine Fan Noise
If your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan, when
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If your vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may hear
the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday
driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required.
Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or
high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your
air conditioning system, the fans may change to
high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and indicates that the cooling system
is functioning properly. The fans will change to low
speed when additional cooling is no longer required.
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Headlamps
Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding
To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following:
1. Open the hood. SeeHood Release on page 5-12
for more information.
2. Remove the turn
signal/parking lamp
assembly by pressing
the release clip on
the outboard side of the
assembly and pulling
the outboard end
toward you.
3. Pull the inboard side of the assembly out from the
vehicle.4. Pull the pins away from their clips and pull them up
until they completely release from the vehicle.
5. Pull the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.
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A. Low-Beam Headlamp
B. High-Beam Headlamp
4. Unplug the electrical connector.
5. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it
from the headlamp assembly.
6. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it
clockwise until it is tight.
7. Plug in the electrical connector.
8. Reinstall the headlamp assembly.
9. Install the pin and turn it into the locking feature.
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Parking Lamps
Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding
To replace a front turn signal, sidemarker, or parking
lamp bulb, do the following:
1. Open the hood. SeeHood Release on page 5-12
for more information.
2. Remove the turn
signal/parking lamp
assembly by pressing
the release clip on the
outboard side of the
assembly and pulling
the outboard end of the
assembly toward you.
3. Pull the inboard side of the assembly out from the
vehicle.
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Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Daytime Running Lamps
Vehicles without Body-Side Cladding
To replace a front turn signal, sidemarker, or DRL bulb,
do the following:
1. Remove the headlamp assembly as mentioned
previously. SeeHeadlamps on page 5-55for
more information.2. Press the retainer clip (arrow), located behind the
turn signal assembly, towards the outside of the
vehicle.
3. Pull the turn signal assembly out from the vehicle.
5-59

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened.
See “Wheel Nut Torque” underCapacities and
Specications on page 5-122.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-84.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires may
not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes at, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your
hazard warning ashers. SeeHazard Warning Flashers
on page 3-6for more information.
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5. Use the hook on the
wheel wrench to pull the
hoist cable towards you
to assist in reaching the
spare tire.
6. Tilt the retainer at the
end of the cable when
the tire has been
lowered, so it can be
pulled up through
the wheel opening.
7. Put the spare tire near the at tire.Removing the Flat Tire and
Installing the Spare Tire
Use the following pictures and instructions to remove
the at tire and raise the vehicle.
The tools you will be using include the jack (A), the
wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle
extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E).
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5. Remove all the wheel
nuts and take off the
at tire.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get
all the rust or dirt off.6. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces, and
spare wheel.
7. Install the spare tire.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If
you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
8. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of
the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the spare.
9. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use
the wheel wrench to tighten the wheel nuts until the
wheel is held against the hub.
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8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel
wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel
blocks) under the vehicle towards the front of the
rear bumper.9. Position the center lift point of the jack under the
center of the spare tire.
10. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the jack
until it lifts the end tting.
11. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops
moving upward and is held rmly in place. The
secondary latch has released and the spare tire is
balancing on the jack.
12. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the
spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by
the cable.
5-98