trailer CHEVROLET BLAZER 1994 2.G User Guide

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh
10%
of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a
“weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the
total loaded trailer weight (B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue,
separately,
to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to
get them right simply by moving some items around
in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find
these numbers
on the Certification label on the driver’s door lock pillar or
see “Tire Loading”
in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW
limit for your vehicle.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks
going by, and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules
to follow:
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than
2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted,
weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you
install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get
into your vehicle (see
“Carbon Monoxide”
in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.
If your vehicle has a deadweight hitch and a endgate-mounted spare tire,
and your trailer has
a winch or tongue jack, you could have interference
between them.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer.
Cross
the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will
not drop
to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the
trailer manufacturer. Follow
the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack
so you can turn with
your rig. And, never allow safety chains
to drag on the ground.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brakes system can tap into vehicle’s hydraulic brake system
except:
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system
if the trailer’s brake system will
use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3~~) of fluid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder.
If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even
lose your brakes.
Will the trailer parts take
3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the
trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the
port on
the master cylinder that sends fluid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If
you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake
tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out
for the open road, you’ll want
to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle
you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly
so responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains,
electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the
trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets
you check your electrical connection at the same time.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and
that
the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Disfance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when
driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that
require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer.
And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need
to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left.
To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Making Turns
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this
so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal
flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows
on your instrument panel will
flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows
on your instrument panel will flash
for turns
even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or
steep downgrade. If you don’t
shift down, you might have to use your
brakes
so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed
to around 45 mph
(70 kdh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
If you have an automatic transmission,
you should use “D” when towing a
trailer. Operating your vehicle in “D” when towing a trailer will minimize
heat buildup and extend the
life of your transmission. Or, if you have a
manual transmission with
fifth gear, it’s better not to use fifth gear, just
drive in fourth gear (or, as
you need to, a lower gear).
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If
something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have
to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P” (Park) yet, or into
gear for a manual transmission.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb
the load.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then
shift into
“P” (Park), or “R” (Reverse) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case
shift lever, be sure
the transfer case is in a drive gear-not in “N”
(Neutral).
6. Release the parking brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
0 Shift into a gear; and
0 Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake
adjustment. Each of these is covered
in this manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that
all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Light Wiring
See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.
Power Winches
If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your
vehicle
is stationary or anchored.
! NOTICE:
~ When operating a power winch on your vehicle always leave the \
l transmission in the neutral position. Do not leave an automatic
transmission in
P (Park) or a manual transmission in gear or the
transmission may be damaged.
Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake or block the wheels to keep
your vehicle from rolling.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may
not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If
you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute
or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to “N” (Neutral).
window as
necessary.
If
you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe,
drive slower for about
ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on,
you can drive normally.
If
the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push
the accelerator until the engine speed is
about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to
normal idle speed after two
or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops.
But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND
GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down.
You may decide not to
lift the hood but to get service help right away.
When
you decide it’s
safe to
lift the hood,
here’s what you’ll see:
A. Coolant recovery
B. Radiator pressure
C. Engine fan tank
cap
If the
coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything
else until
it cools down.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the clutch is
not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as
the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the
cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when
additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely
to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and what
to do:
If a front tire fails,
the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward
that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a
stop well
out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may
require the same correction you’d
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove
your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and
noisy, but
you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if
possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment
to change a flat tire safely.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Fuel
The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code
letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your
instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number”
in the Index.)
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher. With the 4.3L
(Code W) engine, use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or
higher for high power performance, when towing a trailer or with a high
payload requirement. But when operating with a light load as a normal
condition, you may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines.
The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the
U.S.
and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives,
so you should not have to add anything to the fuel.
In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of
gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right on the pump. And only
unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck.
Be sure the posted octane is at least 9
1 for premium, 89 for middle grade
and
87 for regular. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy
knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your
engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at
91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy
knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little
pinging noise when you’re accelerating
or driving up a hill. That’s normal,
and you don’t have
to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of it. It’s the heavy,
constant knock that means
you have a problem.
What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen
(oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol?
MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15%
MTBE is fine for your vehicle.
Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than
10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle.
Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.
NOTICE:
Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle.
Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel syst\
em and
also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be
covered under your warranty. And even at
5% or less, there
must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel\
to
help avoid these problems.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine When to Change Engine Oil
See if any one of these is true for you:
Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km).
It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles (I 6 km).
0 The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door
delivery, or
in stop-and-go traffic).
You tow a trailer often.
0 Most trips are through dusty places.
0 The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.
If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil
andfilter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes
first.
If none
of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or
12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change
and at every other oil change after that.
Four-wheel Drive Remote Oil Filter
If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you will have a remote oil filter
located under the hood. It is mounted to the front left inner fender, behind
the headlights.
Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater)
An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in
very cold weather, 0°F (-18°C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option,
see “Engine Coolant Heater
” in the Index.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay
on your skin for very long. Clean your skin
and nails with soap and water,
or
a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags
containing used engine oil. (See
the manufacturer’s warnings about the use
and disposal of oil products.)
Used oil can be
a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil,
be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from
the filter before disposal. Don’t
ever dispose of oil
by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into
sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle
it by taking it to
a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of
your used oil, ask your dealer,
a service station or a local recycling center
for help.
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