jackstand CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 323
Replacement kits include new bearing
cups and conventional snaprings to
replace the original nylon rings. These replacement rings must go inboard of the
yoke in contrast to outboard mounting of the Dana and Cleveland designs.
Previous service to the Saginaw U-joints can be recognized by the presence of
snaprings inboard of the yoke.
Bad U-joints, requiring replacement, will produce a clunking sound when the car
is put into gear. This is due to worn needle bearings or a scored trunnion end
possibly caused by improper lubricati on during assembly. Camaro U-joints
require no periodic maintenance and theref ore have no lubrication fittings.
DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise the vehicle and safely su pport it on jackstands. Paint a reference
line from the rear end of the drives haft to the companion flange so that
they can be reassembled in the same position.
2. Disconnect the rear universal join t by removing the U-bolts, retaining
straps, or the flange bolts.
3. To prevent loss of the needle bear ings, tape the bearing caps to the
trunnion.
Fig. 1: Driveshaft
4. Remove the driveshaft from the tr ansmission by sliding it rearward.
Do not be alarmed by oil l eakage at the transmission output shaft. This oil is
there to lubricate the sp lines of the front yoke.
To install: 5. Check the yoke seal in the transmi ssion case extension and replace it if
necessary. See the transmission sect ion for replacement procedures.
6. Position the driveshaft and insert t he front yoke into the transmission so
the splines mesh with the transmission shaft splines.
7. Using reference marks made during re moval, align the driveshaft with the
companion flange and secure it with U-bolts or, retaining straps.
U-JOINT REPLACEMENT 1. Support the driveshaft horizontally in line with the base plate of a press.
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 421
Fig. 6: Removing the pan
Fig. 7: Removing the pan gasket
1. Disconnect the negative battery c able. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Remove the distributor cap. Remove the fan shroud assembly.
3. Raise the vehicle and support it safely with jackstands.
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 423
22. Fill the engine with engine oil.
23. Start the engine and
check for leaks.
2.5L ENGINE
Fig. 8: Oil pan - 2.5L
1. Disconnect the negative batte ry cable at the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle and support it safely with jackstands.
3. Drain the engine oil.
4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
5. Loosen the exhaust pipe hanger bracket.
6. Remove the starter assembly.
7. Remove the flywheel dust cover.
8. Remove the front engine mount through-bolts.
9. Carefully raise the engine enough to provide sufficient clearance to lower
the oil pan.
10. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts and remove the oil pan.
To install:
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Fig. 3: One-piece seal installation
1. Jack up your vehicle and support it with jackstands.
2. Remove the transmission.
3. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure
plate.
4. Remove the flywheel assembly.
5. Using a suitable tool, pry the old seal out.
6. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks or burrs, correct as required.
To install: 7. Clean the area and coat the seal with eng ine oil. Install the seal onto tool
J-34686 or equivalent. Install the seal into the engine.
8. Install the flywheel and torque to specification.
9. Install the transmission. (If equipped with a manual transmission, install
the clutch and pressure plate first.)
10. Check the fluid levels, star t the engine and check for leaks.
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•
Jackstands for support.
• Oil filter wrench.
• Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.
• Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unl ess your vehicle is not equipped
with any grease fittings)
• Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless equipped with a sealed,
maintenance-free battery).
• A container for draining oil and other fluids.
• Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.
Fig. 1: All but the most basic procedures will require an assortment of ratchets
and sockets
Fig. 2: In addition to ratchets, a good set of wrenches and hex keys will be
necessary
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 764
Fig. 3: A hydraulic floor jack and a set of jackstands are essential for lifting and
supporting the vehicle
Fig. 4: An assortment of pliers, gr ippers and cutters will be handy for old rusted
parts and stripped bolt heads
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GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 773
Fig. 2: Using the correct size wrench wil l help prevent the possibility of rounding
off a nut
Fig. 3: NEVER work under a vehicle unle ss it is supported using safety stands
(jackstands)
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ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
Under normal operating conditions, the oi
l is to be changed every 7,500 miles
(12,000km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first.
Although the manufacturer recommends changing the f ilter at the first oil
change and then at every other oil c hange, (unless 12 months pass between
changes), The editors of this informat ion recommend changing the filter with
each service. It is a small price to pay for extra protection.
When driving conditions frequently include dusty or polluted areas, trailer
towing, idling for long periods of ti me, or low speed operation, or when
operating at temperatures below freezing or driving short distances (under 4
miles or 6.4km), change t he oil and filter more frequently. Under these
circumstances, oil has a greater chance of building up sludge and contaminants
which could damage your engine. If your v ehicle use fits into one or more of
these categories, (as it does for most vehicles), it is suggested that the oil and
filter be changed every 3, 000 miles (1361km) or 3 months, whichever comes
first.
The oil should be disposed of properly after it is drained from the vehicle. Store
the oil in a suitable container and take the container to an official oil recycling
station. Most gas stations or oil and lube facilities will take the used oil at little or
no expense to you.
Oil should always be changed after the engine has been running long enough to
bring it up to normal operating temperature. Hot oil will flow more easily and will
carry more contaminants than will cold oi l. The oil drain plug is located on the
bottom of the oil pan (bottom of the engi ne, underneath the car). The oil filter is
located on the left side of most engines covered by this information. To change
the oil and filter:
1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and s upport it safely using a suitable pair of
jackstands.
3. Slide a drain pan of a least 6 quar ts capacity under the oil pan. Wipe the
drain plug and surrounding area clean using an old rag.
CAUTION - The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may
cause a number of skin disorders, incl uding cancer! You should make every
effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Pr otective gloves should be
worn when changing the oil. Wash y our hands and any other exposed skin
areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or
waterless hand cleaner should be used.
4. Loosen the drain plug using a ratc het, short extension and socket or a
box-wrench. Turn the plug out by hand, using a rag to shield your fingers
from the hot oil. By keeping an in ward pressure on the plug as you
unscrew it, oil won't escape past the threads and you can remove it
without being burned by hot oil.
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10. Refill the engine with the correct amount
of fresh oil. Please refer to the
Capacities chart at the end of this section.
11. Check the oil level on the dipstick. It is normal for the level to be a bit
above the full mark. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few
minutes.
CAUTION - Do not run the engi ne above idle speed until it has built up oil
pressure, as indicated w hen the oil light goes out
12. Shut off the engine and allow the oil to flow back to the crankcase for a
minute, then recheck the oil level. C heck around the filter and drain plug
for any leaks, and correct as necessary.
MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
• 1982-85 4-speed manual transmissi ons - SAE 80W/90 GL-5 gear
lubricant
• 1986-87 4-speed manual transmission - Dexron®®II automatic
transmission fluid
• 1982-84 5-speed manual transmissions - use SAE 80W/90 GL-5 gear
lubricant (SAE 80W GL-5 in Canada)
• 1985-92 5-speed manual transmissi ons - Dexron®II automatic
transmission fluid
LEVEL CHECK
The oil in the manual tr ansmission should be check ed every 12 months or
15,000 miles.
1. Raise the car and support on jackstands as close to level as possible. \
2. Remove the filler plug from the side of the transmission housing.
3. If lubricant begins to trickle out of the hole, there is enough and you need
not go any further. Otherwise, carefully insert your finger (watch out for
sharp threads) and check to see if the oil is up to the edge of the hol\
e.
4. If not, add oil through the hole until the level is at the edge of the hole.
Most lubricants come in a plasti c squeeze bottle with a nozzle; making
additions simple.
5. Install and tighten the filler plug.
DRAIN AND REFILL
The fluid in the manual transmission do es not require changing. If you do
choose to change the transmission fluid, the fluid can be drained out through
the lower drain plug hole on the side of the transmission. Fill the transmission
with the recommended lubricant to the bottom of the filler plug hole and install
the filler plug.
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LEVEL CHECK
Fig. 1: Removing filler plug to check rear axle lubricant
The gear lubricant in the drive axle should be checked every 12 months or
15,000 miles (24,000km).
1. Raise the car and support on jackstands as close to level as possible. \
2. Remove the filler plug from the side of the drive axle housing.
3. If lubricant begins to trickle out of the hole, there is enough and you need
not go any further. Otherwise, carefully insert your finger (watch out for
sharp threads) and check to see if the lubricant is up to the edge of the
hole.
4. If not, add oil through the hole until the level is at the edge of the hole.
Most gear lubricants come in a pl astic squeeze bottle with a nozzle;
making additions simple.
5. Install and tighten the filler plug.
DRAIN AND REFILL
The rear axle should have the gear lubricant changed every 7,500 miles
(12,000km). If equipped with a limited slip differential, be sure to add 4 oz.
(118mL) of GM lim ited slip additive part No. 1052358.
1. Raise the car and support on jackst ands. Place a container under the
differential to catch the fluid.
2. Remove the bolts retaining the par king brake cable guides and position
aside.