tow CHEVROLET COBALT 2005 1.G Owner's Guide

And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead when
you are towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle
is a good deal longer, you will need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to
your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring. Check
with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument
panel will ash whenever you signal a turn or lane
change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you are about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
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When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It
is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transaxle temperatures may
result and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops
are very important to allow the engine and transaxle
to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator
is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning to
reduce engine load. SeeEngine Overheating on
page 5-29.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here is
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle, or into
gear for a manual transaxle. When parking uphill,
turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking
downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P) for
an automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for
a manual transaxle.
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine.
Shift into a gear.
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you are
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-4for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle
uid (do not overll), engine oil, drive belt, cooling
system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help you nd them quickly. If you are trailering,
it is a good idea to review this information before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating on
page 5-29.
4-44

Hood Release
To open the hood, do the following.
1. Pull the interior hood
release lever with this
symbol on it. It is
located under the
instrument panel on
the driver’s side of the
vehicle.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push the
secondary hood release lever to the left. It is
located under the front center of the hood toward
the driver’s side of the vehicle.
3. After you have partially lifted the hood, a gas strut
will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood
in the fully open position.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the ller caps
are on properly. Lower the hood until the lifting force
of the strut is reduced, then release the hood to
latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed
and repeat the process if necessary.
5-11

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-35.
B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
D. Intercooler System Pressure Cap. SeeEngine
Coolant on page 5-23.
E. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-36andHydraulic Clutch
on page 5-23.
F. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-94.
G. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-40.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-40.
I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. SeeCooling System on
page 5-31.
J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-15

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
An engine coolant temperature warning can indicate a
serious problem. SeeEngine Coolant Temperature
Warning Light on page 3-29.
If you get an engine coolant temperature warning, but
see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot
when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.If you get the engine coolant temperature warning with
no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off.
2. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull
over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine
for three minutes while you are parked. If you still
have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone
out of the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-30

5. Pull the headlamp assembly up on an angle and
towards the radiator to remove.
6. Disconnect the bulb base from the wiring harness
by lifting the plastic locking tab.
7. To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following:
Disconnect the wiring harness from the bulb
socket.
Remove the black retainer by turning it
counterclockwise.
8. Turn the bulb socket for the headlamp, front turn
signal or parking lamp counterclockwise to remove.
For the sidemarker bulb, you will need to us a
tool to assist in turning the bulb socket.
9. Pull the old bulb out of the socket.
10. Install a new bulb.11. Reinstall the bulb assembly by reversing Steps 1
through 8.
When reinstalling the headlamp assembly, rst
ensure that the wiring harness is in its original
position. If not, the headlamp assembly will not t
correctly.
You will also need to line up the two tabs on the
bottom of the assembly that t into two slots in the
headlamp assembly bracket.
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL)
To replace a CHMSL bulb, do the following:
1. Open the trunk. SeeTrunk on page 2-10for more
information.
2. Locate the CHMSL bulb assembly in the trunk lid.
3. Use a tool to depress the plastic tabs to release the
bulb assembly.
5-49

Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamps Bulb Number
Back-Up Lamps 921
Center High-Mounted
Stoplamp (CHMSL)912
Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamps 3157KX
Halogen Headlamps,
High/Low-Beam9007 LL
Sidemarker 194
Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn
Signal Lamps3057KX
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your
dealer.
Windshield Wiper Blade
Replacement
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least
twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Scheduled
Maintenance” for more information on wiper blade
inspection.Replacement blades come in different types and are
removed in different ways. For proper type and length,
seeCapacities and Specications on page 5-97.
Here is how to remove the Shepherd’s Hook type:
1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the
windshield.
2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly
toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.
3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.
5-53

Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles
(8 000 to 13 000 km).
Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as
soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also
check for damaged tires or wheels. SeeWhen It Is Time
for New Tires on page 5-64andWheel Replacement
on page 5-67for more information.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more
uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The rst rotation
is the most important. SeeScheduled Maintenance
on page 6-4.
When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation
pattern shown here.Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire
rotation.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear ination pressures as shown on the Tire and
Loading Information label.
Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened.
See “Wheel Nut Torque” underCapacities and
Specications on page 5-97.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-70.
5-63

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air
goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are
a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-69