tow CHEVROLET EXPRESS CARGO VAN 2005 1.G Service Manual

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will
also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And
if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-31
about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a
maximum of 400 lbs (181 kg) with a weight carrying
hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up
to a maximum of 1,000 lbs (454 kg) with a weight
distributing hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This
will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on
the rear axle.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then
the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If
they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by
moving some items around in the trailer.
4-45

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Then be
sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you
don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must
be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the
same both before and after coupling the trailer to the
tow vehicle.
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could be
damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample
room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer
and the bumper.(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle
4-46

Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can not see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-29. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum air
because it only recirculates the air inside
your vehicle. See Climate Control System
in the Index.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
4-48

Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal asher (included
in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are
seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear under heavy
loads and/or hilly conditions.
4-49

When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on
steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar
to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run
while parked (preferably on level ground) with the
automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-25.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the
curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
4-50

Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid (don’t overll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes
a seven-wire harness assembly at the rear of the
vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly under the left
hand side of the instrument panel. The seven-wire
harness assembly is taped together and located in a
frame pocket at the driver side rear left corner of
the frame. The seven-wire harness includes a 30-amp
feed wire. Both harnesses come without connectors and
should be wired by a qualied electrical technician.
The technician can use the following color code chart
when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer
and trailer brake controller.Seven-Wire Harness
Light Green: Back-up lamps
Brown: Parking lamps
Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal
Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal
Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes
Orange: Trailer accessory
White (heavy gage): Ground wire
Four-Wire Harness (Trailer Brake Controller)
Black: Ground
Red/White Stripe: Fused Battery
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Feed
Light Blue: Fused Stoplamp/CHMSL
4-51

A. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-38.
B. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-24.
C. Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System on
page 5-26.
D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-19.
E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-32.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-34.
J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-33.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-13

SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
more information on location.
Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and
wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The uid level must be in the COLD area for
a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched
area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick
pointed down to get an accurate reading.
If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
How to Add Automatic Transmission
Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission uid to use. SeeRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.
Using a funnel, add uid down the transmission dipstick
tube only after checking the transmission uid while it is
hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the uid
level is low, add only enough of the proper uid to bring
the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not
take much uid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L).
Do not overll.
Notice:Use of the incorrect automatic transmission
uid may damage your vehicle, and the damages
may not be covered by your warranty. Always
use the automatic transmission uid listed in
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.
After adding uid, recheck the uid level as
described under “How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.
When the correct uid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-21

Engine Overheating
You will nd an engine coolant temperature gage on
your vehicle’s instrument panel. SeeEngine Coolant
Temperature Gage on page 3-33for more information.
If Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn
you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay
away from the engine if you see or hear steam
coming from it. Just turn it off and get
everyone away from the vehicle until it cools
down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or
coolant before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch re. You
or others could be badly burned. Stop your
engine if it overheats, and get out of the
vehicle until the engine is cool.Notice:If your engine catches re because you
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-38.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
5-25

Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering uid
reservoir is located in the
engine compartment
on the driver’s side of the
vehicle. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for reservoir
location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering uid
unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A uid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
5-32