trailer CHEVROLET EXPRESS CARGO VAN 2008 1.G Owner's Manual

Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle.
This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight
on the rear axle.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get
them right simply by moving some items around in
the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry
tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the
vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight
Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce
your trailering capacity more than the total of the
additional weight.Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg);
2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs
(3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a
GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of
14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent
of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the
weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on
the rear axle will be greater than just the weight
itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the
rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs
(578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the
total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but
within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to
trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
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But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some
of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger
and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and
gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg)
to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear
axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may
think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds
(318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within
GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be
7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you
must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to
avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the
effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now
weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs
(408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way
to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to
weigh your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-20. Then be
sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you
don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
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Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must
be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the
same both before and after coupling the trailer to the
tow vehicle.
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could be
damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample
room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer
and the bumper.(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle
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If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh
more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when you’re driving. You should always use a sway
control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits.
You can ask a hitch dealer/retailer about sway controls.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you’re using the wiring provided with the
factory-installed trailering package, you should not need
to make any holes in the body of your vehicle.
However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed, you
may need to make holes in the body.
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you
remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle as well as dirt and water. See “Carbon
Monoxide” underEngine Exhaust on page 2-31.Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be
provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow
safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
If your vehicle has StabiliTrak
®, your trailer brake
system cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake
system.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can not see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-31. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum air
because it only recirculates the air inside
your vehicle. See Climate Control System
in the Index.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal (included in the
optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear under heavy
loads and/or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-27.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb if
facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
•start your engine,
•shift into a gear, and
•release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you find them quickly. If
you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes
a wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector at the
rear of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly
under the driver side of the instrument panel. The
four-wire harness assembly comes without a connector.
If your vehicle does not have a trailer hitch, the
seven-wire harness assembly with connector is taped
together and located in a frame pocket at the driver side
rear left corner of the frame.
If your vehicle has a trailer hitch, the seven-wire
harness assembly with connector is attached to a
bracket on the hitch platform. In both cases, the
seven-wire harness has a connector and includes a
30-amp feed wire.
The seven-wire harness connector contains the following
trailer circuits:
•Light Green: Back-up Lamps (10A fuse)**
•White: Ground
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Dark Green: Right Rear Stop and Turn Signal*
•Red/Black Stripe: Battery Feed (30A Fuse)
•Brown: Trailer Park Lamp Supply Voltage
(15A fuse)**
•Yellow: Left Rear Stop and Turn Signal *
The four-wire harness (without connector) contains the
following circuits:
•Black: Ground
•Red/White: Battery Feed
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Light Blue: CHMSL/Stoplamp Supply Voltage
* If your vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions, a
15 amp fuse will be shared for both left/stop trailer turn
and right/stop trailer turn signals. However, the
cutaway lighting connector will have a 10 amp fuse for
each signal.
** If your vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions, a
15 amp fuse will be shared for trailer park lamps
and cutaway rear lighting connector park lamps. Also, a
10 amp fuse will be shared for trailer back-up lamps
and cutaway rear lighting connector back-up lamps.
4-42

How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the uid could come out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a re.
Too little uid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.To get the right reading, the fluid should be at
normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above
50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive
the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature
gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle
has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine
off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the
engine run at idle for five minutes if outside
temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder
than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine
longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold
check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid.
Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate
reading of the fluid level.
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