ESP CHEVROLET EXPRESS PASSANGER 2007 1.G User Guide

But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC
of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving
skills of many people are impaired at a BAC
approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are
worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC
levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the
chance of being in a collision increases sharply for
drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above.
A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has
doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a
BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver
having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of
0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!
The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the
alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or
number of cold showers will speed that up. “I will be
careful” is not the right answer. What if there is an
emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when
a child darts into the street? A person with even a
moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly
enough to avoid the collision.There is something else about drinking and driving
that many people do not know. Medical research
shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make
crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain,
spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone
who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is
in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or
permanently disabled is higher than if the person
had not been drinking.
{CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very
dangerous. Your reexes, perceptions,
attentiveness, and judgment can be
affected by even a small amount of
alcohol. You can have a serious — or
even fatal — collision if you drive after
drinking. Please do not drink and drive or
ride with a driver who has been drinking.
Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a
group, designate a driver who will not
drink.
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So here are some tips for passing:
•Drive ahead. Look down the road, to the
sides, and to crossroads for situations
that might affect your passing patterns. If you
have any doubt whatsoever about making
a successful pass, wait for a better time.
•Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings,
and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead
that might indicate a turn or an intersection,
delay your pass. A broken center line
usually indicates it is all right to pass, providing
the road ahead is clear. Never cross a solid
line on your side of the lane or a double solid
line, even if the road seems empty of
approaching traffic.
•Do not get too close to the vehicle you want
to pass while you are awaiting an opportunity.
For one thing, following too closely reduces
your area of vision, especially if you are
following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not
have adequate space if the vehicle ahead
suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a
reasonable distance.
•When it looks like a chance to pass is coming
up, start to accelerate but stay in the right
lane and do not get too close. Time your move
so you will be increasing speed as the time
comes to move into the other lane. If the way
is clear to pass, you will have a running
start that more than makes up for the distance
you would lose by dropping back. And if
something happens to cause you to cancel
your pass, you need only slow down and drop
back again and wait for another opportunity.
•If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow
vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that
someone is not trying to pass you as you pull
out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to
glance over your shoulder and check the
blind spot.
•Check your vehicle’s mirrors, glance over your
shoulder, and start your left lane change signal
before moving out of the right lane to pass.
When you are far enough ahead of the passed
vehicle to see its front in your vehicle’s inside
mirror, activate the right lane change signal and
move back into the right lane. Remember that
an outside convex mirror makes the vehicle you
just passed seem farther away from you than it
really is.
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•Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time
on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing
the next vehicle.
•Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too
rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not
flashing, it might be slowing down or starting
to turn.
•If you are being passed, make it easy for the
following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps
you can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what the
driver has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to
steer and constantly seek an escape route or
area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking
reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and
by not overdriving those conditions. But skids
are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your
vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid,
the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or
cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a
curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force.
And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle
causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off
the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the
way you want the vehicle to go. If you start
steering quickly enough, your vehicle may
straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid
if it occurs.
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Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow,
ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For
safety, you want to slow down and adjust your
driving to these conditions. It is important to slow
down on slippery surfaces because stopping
distance is longer and vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or
braking, including reducing vehicle speed by
shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could
cause the tires to slide. You might not realize the
surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues — such as
enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to
make a mirrored surface — and slow down when
you have any doubt.
Remember: Any Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
helps avoid only the braking skid.Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to
be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night
vision problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
•Drive defensively.
•Do not drink and drive.
•Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the
glare from headlamps behind you.
•Since you cannot see as well, slow down and
keep more space between you and other
vehicles.
•Slow down, especially on higher speed roads.
Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so
much road ahead.
•In remote areas, watch for animals.
•If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe
place and rest.
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Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
•Besides slowing down, allow some extra
following distance. And be especially careful
when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself
more clear room ahead, and be prepared to
have your view restricted by road spray.
•Have good tires with proper tread depth.
SeeTires on page 346.
City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is
the amount of traffic on them. You will want
to watch out for what the other drivers are doing
and pay attention to traffic signals.
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{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO
(carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO
could overcome you and kill you. You
cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away
snow from around the base of your
vehicle, especially any that is blocking the
exhaust pipe and/or the fuel operated
heater exhaust system, if equipped. And
check around again from time to time to
be sure snow does not collect there. If
your vehicle has a diesel engine and a
fuel operated heater, see “Fuel Operated
Heater (FOH)” in the diesel engine
supplement.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a
little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery (or batteries)
charged. You will need a well-charged battery (or
batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for
signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start
the engine again and repeat this only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as
little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as
you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of
the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It
can cause unconsciousness or death. See
Engine Exhaust on page 132. To maximize
your safety when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with
the fan on any speed. This will bring
fresh, outside air into your vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
Do not use the climate control
setting for maximum air because it
only recirculates the air inside your
vehicle. See Climate Control System
in the Index.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer
moving and then apply the trailer brake controller
by hand to be sure the brakes are working.
This lets you check your electrical connection at
the same time.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea
to review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package
includes a seven-wire harness assembly at the rear
of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly
under the left hand side of the instrument panel.
The seven-wire harness assembly is taped together
and located in a frame pocket at the driver side rear
left corner of the frame. The seven-wire harness
includes a 30-amp feed wire.Both harnesses come without connectors and
should be wired by a qualified electrical technician.
The technician can use the following color code
chart when connecting the wiring harness to your
trailer and trailer brake controller.
Seven-Wire Harness
•Light Green: Back-up lamps
•Brown: Parking lamps
•Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal
•Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal
•Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes
•Red/Black Stripe: Trailer accessory
•White (heavy gage): Ground wire
Four-Wire Harness (Trailer Brake Controller)
•Black: Ground
•Red/White Stripe: Fused Battery
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Feed
•Light Blue: Fused Stoplamp/CHMSL
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How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you
may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer
service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the
instructions here, or you could get a false reading
on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can
damage your transmission. Too much can
mean that some of the uid could come out
and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system
parts, starting a re. Too little uid could
cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure
to get an accurate reading if you check
your transmission uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are
above 90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.To get the right reading, the fluid should be
at normal operating temperature, which is
180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are
above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C),
drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine
temperature gage moves and then remains
steady for 10 minutes.
A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle
has been sitting for eight hours or more with
the engine off, but this is used only as a reference.
Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if
outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more.
If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have
to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be
low during this cold check, you must check the
fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid
hot will give you a more accurate reading of
the fluid level.
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GAWR RR:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear
axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 261.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:The side of
an asymmetrical tire, that must always face
outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:A tire used on
light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger
vehicles.
Load Index:An assigned number ranging from
1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying
capacity of a tire.
Maximum Ination Pressure:The maximum
air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated.
The maximum air pressure is molded onto the
sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating:The load rating for a tire
at the maximum permissible inflation pressure
for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight:The sum of
curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity
weight, and production options weight.Normal Occupant Weight:The number of
occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied
by 150 lbs (68 kg). SeeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 261.
Occupant Distribution:Designated seating
positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that
faces outward when mounted on a vehicle.
The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears
white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand,
and/or model name molding that is higher
or deeper than the same moldings on the other
sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire:A tire used on
passenger cars and some light duty trucks and
multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Ination Pressure:Vehicle
manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation
pressure as shown on the tire placard. See
Ination - Tire Pressure on page 354and
Loading Your Vehicle on page 261.
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