ESP CHEVROLET HHR 2006 1.G User Guide

To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road
conditions, you should always leave the Enhanced
Traction System on. But you can turn the system off
if you prefer.
To turn the system off, shift to LOW (L) or REVERSE (R).
When you turn the system off, the Enhanced Traction
System warning light will come on and stay on when the
gear shift is in LOW (L). The warning light will not come
on when the gear shift is in REVERSE (R). If the
Enhanced Traction System is limiting wheel spin when
you shift to LOW (L) or REVERSE (R) to turn the system
off, the warning light will come on in LOW (L). But the
system won’t turn off right away. It will wait until there’s no
longer a current need to limit wheel spin.
You can turn the system back on at any time by
shifting to AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) or
INTERMEDIATE (I). The Enhanced Traction System
warning light should go off.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s
performance. SeeAccessories and Modifications
on page 5-3for more information.Steering
Electric Power Steering
If the engine stalls while you are driving, the power
steering assist system will continue to operate until you
are able to stop your vehicle. If you lose power
steering assist because the electric power steering
system is not functioning, you can steer, but it will take
more effort.
If you turn the steering wheel in either direction several
times until it stops, or hold the steering wheel in the
stopped position for an extended amount of time, you
may notice a reduced amount of power steering
assist. The normal amount of power steering assist
should return shortly after a few normal steering
movements.
The electric power steering system does not require
regular maintenance. If you suspect steering system
problems and/or the POWER STEERING message
comes on, contact your dealer for service repairs.
SeeDIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-43.
4-11

Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to
pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one
thing, following too closely reduces your area of
vision, especially if you are following a larger
vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if
the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops.
Keep back a reasonable distance.
When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,
start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and
do not get too close. Time your move so you will be
increasing speed as the time comes to move into
the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you
will have a running start that more than makes up
for the distance you would lose by dropping
back. And if something happens to cause you to
cancel your pass, you need only slow down
and drop back again and wait for another
opportunity.
If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle,
wait your turn. But take care that someone is not
trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow
vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder
and check the blind spot.
Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and
start your left lane change signal before moving out
of the right lane to pass. When you are far
enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front
in your inside mirror, activate your right lane
change signal and move back into the right lane.
Remember that your passenger side outside mirror
is convex. The vehicle you just passed may
seem to be farther away from you than it really is.
Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on
two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the
next vehicle.
Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lamps are not ashing, it
may be slowing down or starting to turn.
If you are being passed, make it easy for the
following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps
you can ease a little to the right.
4-15

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what the
driver has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If you have the Enhanced Traction System (ETS),
remember: It helps to avoid only the acceleration skid.
SeeEnhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-10.
If you do not have the Enhanced Traction System, or if
the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also
best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator
pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
4-16

While driving on a surface with reduced traction,
try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or
braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting
to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the
tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is
slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize
warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or
packed snow on the road to make a mirrored
surface — and slow down when you have any doubt.
If you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS),
remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do
not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the
wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This
restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down
steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the
wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare
from headlamps behind you.
Since you cannot see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you
and other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads.
Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much
road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place
and rest.
4-17

Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under the tires that they can actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if
the tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in
one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water
is standing on the road. If you can see reections from
trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and
raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be
hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice:If you drive too quickly through deep
puddles or standing water, water can come in
through the engine’s air intake and badly damage
the engine. Never drive through water that is slightly
lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you
cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive
through them very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. If you try to drive through owing
water, as you might at a low water crossing,
your vehicle can be carried away. As little as
six inches of owing water can carry away a
smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other
vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore
police warning signs, and otherwise be very
cautious about trying to drive through owing
water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you
pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear
room ahead, and be prepared to have your
view restricted by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-46.
4-20

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
4-29

Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so
you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them
properly. Do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake
system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well,
or at all.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
4-44

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P) for
an automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for
a manual transaxle.
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine.
Shift into a gear.
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you are
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-4for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle
uid (do not overll), engine oil, drive belt, cooling
system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help you nd them quickly. If you are trailering,
it is a good idea to review this information before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating
on page 5-23.
4-47

Belt:A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made
from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by
steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire:A pneumatic tire in which the plies are
laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the
centerline of the tread.
Cold Ination Pressure:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi)
or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from
driving. SeeInflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52.
Curb Weight:This means the weight of a motor vehicle
with standard and optional equipment including the
maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without
passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall of
a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with
the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor
vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes
the Tire Identication Number (TIN), an alphanumeric
designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer,
production plant, brand, and date of production.
GVWR:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, seeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-32.GAWR FRT:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front
axle, seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
GAWR RR:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle,
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when
mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:A tire used on light duty
trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index:An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.
Maximum Ination Pressure:The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire may be inated. The
maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating:The load rating for a tire at the
maximum permissible ination pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight:The sum of curb
weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight;
and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight:The number of occupants a
vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg).
SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Occupant Distribution:Designated seating positions.
5-50

Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Quality grades can be found where applicable on the
tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum
section width. For example:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades
tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature
performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the
United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls
of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality
Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep
tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary
use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of
10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some
limited-production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger
cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these
grades, they must also conform to federal safety
requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions on a specied government test course.
For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and
a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as
a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires
depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart signicantly from the norm
due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and
differences in road characteristics and climate.
Traction – AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA,
A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to
stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specied government test surfaces
of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor
traction performance.
Warning:The traction grade assigned to this tire is
based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does
not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or
peak traction characteristics.
5-57