steering wheel CHEVROLET KODIAK 2004 User Guide

Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
On vehicles with hydraulic brakes, the power steering
and main hydraulic brake system both use the
power steering pump. SeeBraking on page 4-6.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here is why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves.
The traction of the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when
you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia
will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If
you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you
will understand this.The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.
Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control
systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their
work where the tires meet the road. Adding the
sudden acceleration can demand too much of those
places. You can lose control. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) on page 4-11.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you
want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
4-12

Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective
than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find
a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls
out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between
parked cars and stops right in front of you. You
can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop
in time. But sometimes you can not; there is not
room. That is the time for evasive action — steering
around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply your brakes.
SeeBraking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much
speed as you can from a possible collision. Then
steer around the problem, to the left or right depending
on the space available.An emergency like this requires close attention and a
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you
can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without
removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer
quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel
once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving
at all times and wear safety belts properly.
4-13

Off-Road Recovery
You may find that your right wheels have dropped off
the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you are
driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way,
steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of
the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to
one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts
the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go
straight down the roadway.
Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a
two-lane highway waits for just the right moment,
accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then
goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane
highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the
passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming
traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in
judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger
can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the
worst of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision.
So here are some tips for passing:
•A vehicle like yours takes a longer time to reach
passing speed, so you will need a longer stretch
of clear road ahead than you would with a
passenger car.
•“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides
and to crossroads for situations that might affect
your passing patterns. If you have any doubt
whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait
for a better time.
4-14

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems (brakes,
steering and acceleration) do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the driver
has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.If you have the Traction Control System, remember: It
helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If you do not have
this system, or if the system is off, then an acceleration
skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the
accelerator pedal.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety,
you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration
or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice or packed snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” — and slow
down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It
helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have
anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are
no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the
brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores
steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily
when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels
are rolling, you will have steering control.
4-16

Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you will
want to brake very gently, too. If you do have anti-lock,
seeBraking on page 4-6. This system improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Whether you have the anti-lock braking
system or not, you will want to begin stopping
sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without
anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide,
let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal
down steadily to get the most traction you can.
Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so
hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide.
Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can
still steer.
•Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
•Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can not reach:
around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
•Turn on your hazard flashers.
•Tie a red cloth to your mirror arm to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
4-27

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle
has traction control, you should turn the traction
control system off. SeeTraction Control System (TCS)
on page 4-11. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual
transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2)
and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as
possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift,
and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the
transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels
in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause
a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does
not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be
towed out. If you do need to be towed out, seeTowing
Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
Using the Tow Hooks
If your vehicle has tow hooks, the hooks are provided at
the front and, on some models, the rear of your
vehicle. You may need to use them if you are stuck
off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you
can continue driving.
4-30

Item Number Item Remarks
1 Brake Camshaft** One fitting each (apply sparingly).
2 Steering Column Slip Joint* One fitting.
3 Steering Drag Link Ends One fitting each end.
4 Pivot Points and Hinges Apply chassis lubricant.
5 Pivot Points and Hinges Apply chassis lubricant.
6 Slack Adjuster** One fitting.
7Brake Cam Roller Pins at interface of pin
and shoe**Apply engine oil.
8 Front Steering KnucklesOne fitting each side, lower bushing.
(Hand-operated grease gun only.) Hand-pack
upper bearing.
9 Front Wheel Bearings Hand-pack or lubricate.
10 Steering Tie Rod Ends One fitting each end.
11 Spring Slip Pads* (Multi-leaf Only) Apply chassis lubricant.
12 Clutch Release Bearing* Cup or fitting.
13 Battery Terminal (except “ST” type) Keep coated with petroleum jelly.
14 Transmission Fill to level of filler plug.
15 Propshaft Slip JointsLubricate with GM Part No. 1051344 Wheel Bearing
Lubricant.
16 Parking Brake Clevis Pin$ Apply chassis lubricant.
17 Parking Brake Lever Pivot*, $ Apply chassis lubricant.
18Clutch Release Cross Shaft,
Master Cylinder$Apply chassis lubricant, fill to 1/4 inch (6 mm)
below opening.
5-53

Proper front wheel alignment must be maintained in
order to ensure efficient steering, good directional
stability, and prevent abnormal tire wear. If you notice
unusual tire wear or your vehicle is pulling one way
or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you
notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth
road, your wheels may need to be balanced.
Tightening the Wheel Nuts
{CAUTION:
Wheel nuts that are not tight can work loose. If
all the nuts on a wheel come off, the wheel can
come off the vehicle, causing a crash. All
wheel nuts must be properly tightened. Follow
the rules in this section to be sure they are.
This section lets you know how often to check the
tightness of the wheel nuts on your vehicle and how tight
they must be.First, use these pictures to decide what kind of wheels
you have.
Then, follow the steps below for the wheels you have.
Hub-Piloted Wheels, 8-Hole or 10-Hole
The studs and nuts used with these wheels have
right-hand threads.
1. With intermittent pilot pads, position a pad at
12 o’clock to center the wheel and reduce run-out.
2. Put the tire and rim assembly on the axle hub.
Install the outer rear tire and rim assembly so
that its valve stem is exactly opposite the valve stem
on the inner tire and rim assembly. Hub-Piloted Type,
8-Hole
Hub-Piloted Type,
10-Hole
5-71

Used Replacement Wheels
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is
dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used
or how far it’s been driven. It could fail
suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to
replace a wheel, use a new GM original
equipment wheel.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air
goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a “blow out,” here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop –– well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place and turn on your
hazard warning flashers. The next part tells you what
to do.
5-75

10,000 Miles (16 000 km)
❑DURAMAX™ Diesel Only: Change engine oil
and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs
first).(2) (3)
15,000 Miles (24 000 km)
❑Gasoline Engine Only: Check Oil Life System.
If engine oil and filter are changed, reset system. See
“Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)” in the
Index.(3) (9)
❑Chassis lubrication service (or every 6 months,
whichever occurs first).(12)
❑Check fluid levels (or every 3 months, whichever
occurs first).(1) (6)
❑Gasoline Engine: Inspect engine air cleaner filter if
you are driving in dusty conditions and replace
filter if necessary. Diesel Engine: Inspect engine air
cleaner filter change indicator. If necessary,
replace the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty
conditions, inspect filter change indicator at
every engine oil change. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-30for more
information.† (3)
❑DURAMAX™ Diesel Only: Replace fuel filter.
❑Steering system service.(13)
❑Front and rear suspension service.(14)
❑Spring-to-axle U-bolts and shackle bolts service.(16)❑Exhaust system service (or every 6 months,
whichever occurs first).(3) (4) (17)
❑Wheels and tires service.(15)
❑Hydraulic brake service (or every 6 months,
whichever occurs first).(7) (46)
❑Parking brake service (or every 6 months, whichever
occurs first).(8)
❑Air brake service (or every 6 months, whichever
occurs first).(39)
❑Air brake automatic slack adjuster service (or every
500 hours, whichever occurs first).(40)
❑Check air brake relay valve operation and check for
leaks (or every month, or every 300 hours, whichever
occurs first).
❑Clean air brake application valve (or every 3 months,
or every 300 hours, whichever occurs first). Lubricate
linkage.
❑Air brake chamber service (or every 2 months,
whichever occurs first).(41)
❑Trailer brake hand control valve service (or every
3 months, or every 900 hours, whichever occurs
first).(42)
❑Thermostatically controlled engine cooling fan
service.(4) (20)
❑Shields and underhood insulation service.(4) (5) (21)
6-6