change wheel CHEVROLET KODIAK 2004 Owners Manual

Automatic Transmission
Set the parking brake and move your shift lever to
NEUTRAL (N) or PARK (P) if so equipped. Your engine
won’t start in any other position – that’s a safety
feature.
Manual Transmission
Set the parking brake, shift to neutral and hold the
clutch pedal to the floor while starting the engine.
Starter Motor Operation
•The starter motor will disengage if you release the
key or the engine reaches a predetermined engine
speed.
•To prevent overheating, the starter motor will
disengage after continuously operating for
15 seconds. You must release the key from the
start position to re-engage the starter.
•The starter motor will not engage if the engine is
already running.
•The starter motor will disengage if, after two
seconds, the starter pinion gear does not engage
the flywheel or there is no engine rpm signal
from the engine speed sensor.
Starting Your Engine
1. Without pushing the accelerator pedal, turn your
ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let
go of the key. The idle speed will go down as
your engine gets warm.
2. If the engine doesn’t start in 10 seconds, push the
accelerator pedal all the way down and crank the
engine for five more seconds, unless it starts
sooner.
3. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then
stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline.
Wait 15 seconds to let the starter motor cool
down. Do Steps 1 through 3 again.
When the engine starts, let go of the key and the
accelerator pedal.
Notice:Your engine is designed to work with the
electronics in your vehicle. If you add electrical
parts or accessories, you could change the way the
engine operates. Before adding electrical equipment,
check with your dealer. If you do not, your engine
might not perform properly.
If you ever need to have your vehicle towed, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
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Instrument Panel Overview...............................3-4
Hazard Warning Flashers................................3-5
Other Warning Devices...................................3-6
Horn.............................................................3-6
Tilt Wheel.....................................................3-7
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever.........................3-7
Exterior Lamps.............................................3-13
Interior Lamps..............................................3-15
Instrument Panel Switchbank..........................3-16
Accessory Power Outlets...............................3-17
Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter........................3-18
Climate Controls............................................3-19
Climate Control System.................................3-19
Outlet Adjustment.........................................3-22
Rear Heating System....................................3-23
Warning Lights, Gages, and Indicators............3-23
Instrument Panel Cluster................................3-24
Speedometer and Odometer...........................3-25
Tachometer.................................................3-26
Safety Belt Reminder Light.............................3-26
Safety Belt Reminder Tone............................3-26
Air Bag Readiness Light................................3-27
Air Bag Off Light..........................................3-28Charging System Light..................................3-30
Voltmeter Gage............................................3-30
Service Transmission Warning Light................3-31
Range Inhibit Warning Indicator......................3-31
Brake System Warning Light..........................3-31
Parking Brake Warning Light..........................3-34
Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light.............3-34
Trailer Anti-Lock Brake System
Warning Light...........................................3-35
Engine Coolant Temperature Gage..................3-35
Low Coolant Warning Light............................3-36
Wait to Start Indicator...................................3-36
Malfunction Indicator Lamp.............................3-37
Oil Pressure Gage........................................3-37
Low Oil Level Light.......................................3-38
Change Engine Oil Light................................3-39
Engine Overspeed Warning Light....................3-39
Engine Shutdown Warning Light.....................3-39
Transmission Temperature Gage.....................3-40
Exhaust Brake Indicator Light.........................3-40
Differential Lock Indicator Light.......................3-40
Reduced Engine Power Light.........................3-41
Daytime Running Lamps Indicator Light...........3-41
Section 3 Instrument Panel
3-1

Tilt Wheel
A tilt wheel allows you to adjust the steering wheel
before you drive. You can raise it to the highest level to
give your legs more room when you exit and enter
the vehicle.
The lever that allows you to tilt the steering wheel is
located on the left side of the steering column.
To tilt the wheel, hold the wheel and pull the lever. Then
move the wheel to a comfortable position and release
the lever to lock the wheel in place.
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
The lever located on the left side of the steering column
includes the following:
•Turn and Lane-Change Signals
•Headlamp High/Low-Beam Changer
•Windshield Wipers
•Windshield Washer
•Cruise Control (Option)
3-7

Cruise Control
If your vehicle has this
feature, it is located at the
end of the multifunction
lever.
T(Set):Pressing in this button at the end of the
lever sets the cruise control speed.
9(Off):Moving the switch to this position turns off
the cruise control.
R(On):Moving the switch to this position turns on the
cruise control.
S(Resume/Accelerate):Moving the switch to this
position turns on resume/accelerate.With cruise control, you can maintain a speed of about
30 mph (48 km/h) or more without keeping your foot
on the accelerator. Cruise control does not work
at speeds below about 30 mph (48 km/h).
If you have an automatic transmission and you apply
your brakes, the cruise control will shut off.
If you have a manual transmission and you apply your
brakes or push the clutch pedal, the cruise control
will shut off.
{CAUTION:
Cruise control can be dangerous where you
can not drive safely at a steady speed. So, do
not use your cruise control on winding roads
or in heavy traffic.
Cruise control can be dangerous on slippery
roads. On such roads, fast changes in tire
traction can cause needless wheel spinning,
and you could lose control. Do not use cruise
control on slippery roads.
3-10

The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure
faster than any driver could. The computer is
programmed to make the most of available tire and road
conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle
while braking hard.
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates
on wheel speed and controls braking pressure
accordingly.Remember: Anti-lock does not change the time you
need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always
decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to
the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply
your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops.
Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even
though you have anti-lock brakes.
Using Anti-Lock
Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal
down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel
the brakes pulsate, or you may hear air exhausting,
but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same
time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more
than even the very best braking.
4-8

Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
On vehicles with hydraulic brakes, the power steering
and main hydraulic brake system both use the
power steering pump. SeeBraking on page 4-6.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here is why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves.
The traction of the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when
you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia
will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If
you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you
will understand this.The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.
Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control
systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their
work where the tires meet the road. Adding the
sudden acceleration can demand too much of those
places. You can lose control. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) on page 4-11.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you
want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
4-12

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems (brakes,
steering and acceleration) do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the driver
has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.If you have the Traction Control System, remember: It
helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If you do not have
this system, or if the system is off, then an acceleration
skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the
accelerator pedal.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety,
you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration
or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice or packed snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” — and slow
down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It
helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have
anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are
no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the
brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores
steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily
when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels
are rolling, you will have steering control.
4-16

Four-Wheel Disc Brakes
(Hydraulic Only)
Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with
your brakes.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
Four-Wheel and Six-Wheel Drum
Brakes (Air Only)
The brake drums should be removed and inspected
each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing.
When you have the front brakes replaced, have the
rear brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in
pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, your brakes adjust
for wear.
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many
parts have to be of top quality and work well together if
the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your
vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM
brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking
system — for example, when your brake linings
wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure
you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do
not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For
example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong
for your vehicle, the balance between your front and
rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking
performance you have come to expect can change
in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong
replacement brake parts.
5-49

{CAUTION:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break. If
all the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could
come off and cause a crash. If any stud is
damaged because of a loose-running wheel, it
could be that all of the studs are damaged. To
be sure, replace all studs on the wheel. If the
stud holes in a wheel have become larger, the
wheel could collapse in operation. Replace any
wheel if its stud holes have become larger or
distorted in any way. Inspect hubs and hub
piloted wheels for damage. Because of loose
running wheels, piloting pad damage may
occur and require replacement of the entire
hub, for proper centering of the wheels. When
replacing studs, hubs, wheel nuts or wheels,
be sure to use GM original equipment parts.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause a crash. When you change
a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper
towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper
or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the
rust or dirt off.
How Often to Check
Wheel tightness is so important you should have a
technician check nut tightness on all wheels with
a torque wrench after your first 100 miles (160 km), and
then 1,000 miles (1 600 km) after that. Be sure to
repeat this service whenever you have a tire removed
or serviced. SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5
for further information.
5-73

Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, replace
the wheel. If the wheel leaks air, replace it.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted
the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM
original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to
have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts
for your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
A leaking wheel could fail without warning.
A wheel designed for tubeless tires could be
leaking because it is damaged. Don’t use
an inner tube or some other thing to try to
stop the leaking. Get a new wheel or the
proper type.
{CAUTION:
Without the correct wheel, you may not be able
to stop properly, and you could have other
problems like a tire air-out. You could have a
collision. If you don’t go to your dealer to get a
new wheel, be sure you get the correct one.
Each new wheel should match the original
wheel in load-carrying capacity, ination
pressure capacity, diameter, width, offset and
mounting conguration.
Using wheels and tires with higher load-carrying limits
than the original wheels and tires doesn’t change
the GAWR or the GVWR of your vehicle. See “Loading
Your Vehicle” for more information.
Notice:The wrong wheel can cause trouble in
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer
calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle
ground clearance, stopping distance and tire
clearance to the body and chassis. You could also
have other problems like a tire air-out.
5-74