engine CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO 2007 6.G Repair Manual

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck,
you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not
want to spin your wheels too fast. The method
known as rocking can help you get out when you
are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. And, the transaxle or
other parts of the vehicle can overheat.
That could cause an engine compartment
re or other damage. When you are stuck,
spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h)
as shown on the speedometer.Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin
the wheels too fast while shifting the transaxle
back and forth, you can destroy the transaxle.
SeeRocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on
page 276.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 370.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right.
That will clear the area around the front wheels.
If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn
the traction control system off. SeeTraction
Control System (TCS) on page 254. Then shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and
a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as
possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you
shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions,
you will cause a rocking motion that may free your
vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out
after a few tries, it may need to be towed out.
If your vehicle does need to be towed out,
seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 282.
276

Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment
and drive properly, you can lose control
when you pull a trailer. For example, if the
trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not
work well — or even at all. You and your
passengers could be seriously injured.
You may also damage your vehicle; the
resulting repairs would not be covered
by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if
you have followed all the steps in this
section. Ask your dealer for advice and
information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle,
you should read the information in “Weight of
the Trailer” that appears later in this section.
Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle
by itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe
trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be
used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety
rules. Many of these are important for your safety
and that of your passengers. So please read
this section carefully before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced
to work harder against the drag of the added
weight. The engine is required to operate
at relatively higher speeds and under greater
loads, generating extra heat. What’s more,
the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.
284

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering.
Make sure your rig will be legal, not only
where you live but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this information can be
state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. You can ask
a hitch dealer about sway controls.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst
1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is
driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could
be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that
you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle.
This helps your engine and other parts of
your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a
trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum
posted speed for trailers, or no more than
55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your
vehicle’s parts.Three important considerations have to do
with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs
(454 kg). But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used
to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend
on any special equipment that you have on your
vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the
vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer
Tongue” later in this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming
only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all
the required trailering equipment. The weight
of additional optional equipment, passengers and
cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted
from the maximum trailer weight.
285

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Tire-Loading Information label, SeeLoading Your
Vehicle on page 277. Then be sure you don’t go
over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the
weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the
right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not
intended for hitches. Do not attach rental
hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it.
Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not
attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If
you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal
them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your
exhaust can get into your vehicle. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 121. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety
chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the
tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety
chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the
bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you
can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure
to read and follow the instructions for the
trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes. Do not try
to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you
do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.
287

Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating.
Notice:When the outside temperature is
above 100° F (38° C) and/or there is a steep,
continuous grade, the recommended speed
when towing is 55 mph (88 km/h) or less.
Extended higher than normal engine and
transaxle temperatures may damage your
vehicle.
You may want to drive in THIRD (3), instead
of DRIVE (D).
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your
vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer can
be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
290

When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transaxle uid (don’t overll), engine oil,
drive belts, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re
trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat
during severe operating conditions. SeeEngine
Overheating on page 323.
291

Service........................................................ 296
Accessories and Modications................... 296
California Proposition 65 Warning.............. 297
Doing Your Own Service Work.................. 297
Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle...................................... 298
Fuel............................................................. 298
Gasoline Octane........................................ 298
Gasoline Specications.............................. 299
California Fuel........................................... 299
Additives................................................... 300
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol)............................ 301
Fuels in Foreign Countries........................ 302
Filling the Tank......................................... 303
Filling a Portable Fuel Container............... 305Checking Things Under the Hood.............. 306
Hood Release........................................... 307
Engine Compartment Overview.................. 308
Engine Oil................................................. 311
Engine Oil Life System.............................. 314
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter............................ 316
Automatic Transaxle Fluid......................... 317
Engine Coolant.......................................... 320
Pressure Cap............................................ 323
Engine Overheating................................... 323
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode..................................... 325
Cooling System......................................... 326
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 331
Windshield Washer Fluid........................... 332
Brakes...................................................... 333
Battery...................................................... 336
Jump Starting............................................ 337
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
293

California Proposition 65 Warning
Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain
and/or emit chemicals known to the State of
California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and
systems (including some inside the vehicle), many
uids, and some component wear by-products
contain and/or emit these chemicals.
Doing Your Own Service Work
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could
be damaged if you try to do service work
on a vehicle without knowing enough
about it.
Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement
parts, and tools before you attempt any
vehicle maintenance task.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)

Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,
and other fasteners. English and metric
fasteners can be easily confused. If you
use the wrong fasteners, parts can later
break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If you want to do some of your own service work,
you will want to use the proper service manual.
It tells you much more about how to service your
vehicle than this manual can. To order the
proper service manual, seeService Publications
Ordering Information on page 441.
Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before
attempting to do your own service work, see
Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on
page 82.
You should keep a record with all parts receipts
and list the mileage and the date of any service
work you perform. SeeMaintenance Record
on page 418.
297

Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle
Things you might add to the outside of your
vehicle can affect the airow around it. This may
cause wind noise and affect windshield washer
performance. Check with your dealer before
adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Fuel
Use of the recommended fuel is an important part
of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To
help keep your engine clean and maintain optimum
vehicle performance, GM recommends the use
of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline.
The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identication Number
(VIN) shows the code letter or number that
identies your engine. You will nd the VIN at
the top left of the instrument panel. SeeVehicle
Identication Number (VIN) on page 394.If your vehicle has the 3.5L V6 engine (VIN
Code K only), you may use either regular
unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing
up to 85% ethanol (E85); also seeFuel E85
(85% Ethanol) on page 301. In all other engines,
use only regular unleaded gasoline.
Gasoline Octane
For all vehicles except those with the 5.3L V8
engine (VIN Code C), use regular unleaded
gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher.
If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice
an audible knocking noise when you drive,
commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs,
use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as
soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking,
your engine needs service.
298

If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN
Code C), use premium unleaded gasoline with a
posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You may
also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration
may be slightly reduced, and you may notice a
slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred
to as spark knock. If the octane is less than
87, you may notice a heavy knocking noise when
you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated
at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible.
Otherwise, you might damage your engine.
If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or
higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine
needs service.
Gasoline Specications
At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM
specication D 4814 in the United States or
CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may
contain an octane-enhancing additive called
methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT). General Motors recommends against the
use of gasolines containing MMT. SeeAdditives
on page 300for additional information.
California Fuel
If your vehicle is certied to meet California
Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate
on fuels that meet California specications.
See the underhood emission control label.
If this fuel is not available in states adopting
California emissions standards, your vehicle will
operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal
specications, but emission control system
performance may be affected. The malfunction
indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may
fail a smog-check test. SeeMalfunction Indicator
Lamp on page 181. If this occurs, return to
your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is
determined that the condition is caused by the
type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered
by your warranty.
299