ESP CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2000 1.G Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 2000, Model line: SILVERADO, Model: CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2000 1.GPages: 421, PDF Size: 2.87 MB
Page 241 of 421
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4-45
CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill
you. You can't see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn't collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that's away from the wind. This will help
keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well
-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
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4-49
NOTICE:
Some vehicles may be equipped with RPO VYU
(snow plow prep package). With this option, the
payload your vehicle can carry is reduced when a
snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be
damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings,
or the GVW are exceeded.
As a general guideline, with a 650 lb. (295 kg)
snow plow, the weight of the occupants and cargo
must not exceed 300 lb. (135 kg). However, this
may depend on the vehicle's option content.
Therefore, to help avoid vehicle damage:
Make sure the weight on the front and rear
axles does not exceed their respective
axle ratings.
NOTICE: (Continued)
NOTICE: (Continued)
For the front axle, if more cargo or
passengers need to be carried, appropriate
counter ballast must be installed rear of the
rear axle and properly secured.
Total vehicle weight must not exceed the
GVW rating.
See your dealer for advice and information
about using a snow plow on your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can
break, and it can change the way your vehicle
handles. These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life
of your vehicle.
Page 259 of 421
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4-63 Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods
of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very
warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be
affected by high ambient temperatures.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal
longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Page 262 of 421
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4-66
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle won't move, even
when you're on fairly level ground, use the steps
that follow.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake firmly set.
If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is
in NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to
roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be
sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
-- not in
NEUTRAL (N).
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don't
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Page 285 of 421
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5-18
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
Page 323 of 421
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6-20 How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you
may choose to have this done at the dealership
service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the
instructions here, or you could get a false reading
on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your
transmission. Too much can mean that some of
the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be
sure to get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90F (32C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic
-- especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180F to 200F
(82C to 93C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50F
(10C). If it's colder than 50F (10C), drive the
vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then
follow the hot check procedures.
Page 325 of 421
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6-22
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross
-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT area or cross
-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission fluid to use. See ªRecommended
Fluids and Lubricantsº in the Index.
Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid
while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a
reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of
the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for
a hot check. It doesn't take much fluid, generally less
than one pint (0.5 L). Don't overfill.
NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRON-III, because fluid with that label is
made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON
-III
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under ªHow to Check.º
When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
Page 353 of 421
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6-50 Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature performance.
(This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most
passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading
system does not apply to deep tread, winter
-type snow
tires, space
-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with
nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm),
or to some limited
-production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger
cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these
grades, they must also conform to Federal safety
requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified government test course. For
example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half
(1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire
graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends
upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and
may depart significantly from the norm due to variations
in driving habits, service practices and differences in
road characteristics and climate.
Traction -- AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A,
B, and C. Those grades represent the tire's ability to stop
on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specified government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor
traction performance. Warning: The traction grade
assigned to this tire is based on straight
-ahead braking
traction tests, and does not include acceleration,
cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
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6-51
Temperature -- A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire's resistance to the generation of
heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under
controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the
material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and
excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.
The grade C corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet under the
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades
B and A represent higher levels of performance on the
laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is
established for a tire that is properly inflated and not
overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced
carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance.Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not
needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or
your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment
may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle
vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels
may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel,
wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the
wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your
dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load
-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the
same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original
equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
Page 364 of 421
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6-61
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
PART NUMBERSIZEDESCRIPTIONUSAGE
99495423 in. x 25 in.Polishing Cloth ± Wax TreatedExterior polishing cloth
105017216 oz. (0.473 L)Tar and Road Oil RemoverRemoves tar, road oil and asphalt
105017316 oz. (0.473 L)Chrome Cleaner and PolishUse on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass
105017416 oz. (0.473 L)White Sidewall Tire CleanerRemoves soil and black marks from whitewalls
105021432 oz. (0.946 L)Vinyl CleanerCleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops
105042723 oz. (0.680 L)Glass CleanerRemoves dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints
1052918**8 oz. (0.237 L)Armor All ProtectantProtects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglas, plastic,
rubber and vinyl
105292516 oz. (0.473 L)Multi-Purpose Interior
CleanerCleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels
and floor mats
105292916 oz. (0.473 L)Wheel CleanerSpray on and rinse with water
10529308 oz. (0.237 L)Capture Dry Spot RemoverAttracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric
123457212.5 sq. ft.Synthetic ChamoisShines vehicle without scratching
1234572512 oz. (0.354 L)Silicone Tire ShineSpray on tire shine
12377964*16 oz. (0.473 L)Finish EnhancerRemoves dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants
12377966*16 oz. (0.473 L)Cleaner WaxRemoves light scratches and oxidation and protects finish
12377984*16 oz. (0.473 L)Surface CleanerRemoves contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks
See your General Motors Parts Department for these products. * For exterior use only.
See ªRecommended Fluids and Lubricantsº in the Index. ** Not recommended for use on instrument panels.