tires CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1995 Owners Manual

To shift into or out of 4-WHEEL LOW (4L)or NEUTRAL (N):
0 Slow the vehicle to a roll, about 1-3 mph (2-5 kdh) and shift an
automatic transmission into neutral, or with a manual transmission
press the clutch pedal.
Shift the transfer case shift lever in one continuous motion.
Don’t pause in NEUTRAL
(N) as you shift the transfer case into 4-WHEEL
LOW (4L), or your gears could clash.
Remember that driving in 4-WHEEL HIGH (4H) or 4-WHEEL LOW (4L)
may reduce fuel economy. Also, driving in four-wheel drive on dry
pavement could cause your tires to wear faster and make your transfer case
harder
to shift.
Front Axle Locking Feature
I ne front axle locks and unlocks automatically when you shift the transfer
case. Some delay for the axle to lock or unlock is normal. If the outside
temperature is very hot, or the vehicle has been used under hard driving
conditions, there may be a slight delay for the axle to unlock.
Windows
To open your manual
windows, turn the
hand crank on each
door to raise or lower
your side door
windows.
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careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take
sudden action, as when
a child darts into the street? A person with even a
moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the
collision.
There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t
know. Medical research shows that alcohol
in a person’s system can make
crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord
or heart.
This means that when anyone who has been drinking
- driver or passenger
- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled
is higher than
if the person had not been drinking.
Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go.
They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have
to
do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.
Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy
to ask more of
those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you
can lose control
of your vehicle.
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To Use Anti-Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock
work for
you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some
noise, but this is normal. On vehicles with four-wheel drive, your anti-lock
brakes work at all times
- whether you are in two-wheel drive or
four-wheel drive.
Braking in Emergencies
Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you
can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can
help
you more than even the very best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is
not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen
on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each
of us is subject to the same laws of
physics when driving on curves. The traction
of the tires against the road
surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when
you turn
the front wheels.
If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in
the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll
understand this.
The traction
you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires
and the road surface,
the angle at which the curve is banked, and your
speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the
one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly
accelerate. Both control systems
- steering and acceleration - have to do
their work where the tires meet the road. Adding
the sudden acceleration
can demand
too much of those places. You can lose control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal,
steer the
vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down.
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Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re
awaiting an opportunity. For
one thing, following too closely reduces
your area of
vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.
Also,
you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly
slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.
When it looks like
a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but
stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move
so you
will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane.
If the way
is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more
than makes up for the distance
you would lose by dropping back. And
if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only
slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.
If other cars are lined up
to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But
take care that someone isn’t trying to pass
you as you pull out to pass
the slow vehicle. Remember
to glance over your shoulder and check
the blind spot.
Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane
change signal before moving
out of the right lane to pass. When you
are far enough ahead
of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside
mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back
into the
right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the
vehicle
you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it
really is.)
Try not to pass more
than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads.
Reconsider before passing
the next vehicle.
Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle
too rapidly. Even though the
brake lights are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.
If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get
ahead of
you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough
friction where
the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying
to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care suited
to existing conditions, and by
not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
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The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems.
In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering
skid, too much speed or steering
in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the
driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts
to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If
you start steering
quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other
material is on the road. For safety,
you’ll want to slow down and adjust your
driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving
on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid
sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by
shifting
to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may
not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues
- such as enough water, ice or packed
snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you
have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid
only the braking
skid.
Driving Guidelines
This multipurpose passenger vehicle is defined as a utility vehicle in
Consumer Information Regulations issued by the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration (NHTSA)
of the United States Department of
Transportation. Utility vehicles have higher ground clearance and a
narrower track to make them capable
of performing in a wide variety of
off-road applications. Specific design characteristics give them a higher
center of gravity than ordinary cars. An advantage of the higher ground
clearance is a better view
of the road allowing you to anticipate problems.
They are
not designed for cornering at the same speeds as conventional
2-wheel drive vehicles any more than low-slung sports cars are designed
to
perform satisfactorily under off-road conditions. If at all possible, avoid
sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. As with other vehicles of this type, failure
to operate this vehicle correctly may result
in loss of control or vehicle
rollover.
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You’ll find other important information in this manual. See “Vehicle
Loading,” “Luggage Carrier’’ and “Tires”
in the Index.
Traveling to Remote Areas
It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area.
Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad
surprises. Get accurate maps
of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any
blocked or closed roads.
It’s also
a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something
happens to one
of them, the other can help quickly.
Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch
instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But
you’ll
want to know how to use it properly.
Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving
It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before
you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and
different driving skills. Here’s what we mean.
Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need
to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to
listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet, and
body you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.
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across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance
between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from
tilting
and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more
weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a
rollover.
0 Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill.
Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to
slip sideways, downhill. If
the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit
something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.
Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If
you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill
wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can
tilt even more.
For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive
across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean
you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.
Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit
some
loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?
A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This
should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent
the side slipping.
However,
a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the
course”
so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.
Stalling on an Incline
If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your
passengers) get out on the uphill side, even
if the door there is harder to
open.
If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over,
you’ll be right
in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take
if it does roll over.
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Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction.
You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need
longer braking distances.
It’s best to
use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the
lower the gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving
so you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will
depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on
beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand.
This has an
effect on steering, accelerating, and braking.
You may want to reduce the air
pressure in your tires slightly when driving
on sand. This will improve
traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces,
it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is
so poor
that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor
steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
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After Off-Road Driving
Remove any biush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or
under the hood. These accumulations
can be a fire hazard.
After operation
in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked.
These substances
can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body
structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and
exhaust system for
damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer
to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some
drivers are likely to be impaired
- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems,
or by fatigue.
Here are some tips
on night driving.
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Drive defensively.
Don’t drink and drive.
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps
behind you.
Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and
keep more
space between you and other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light
up only
so much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you’re tired, pull off the road
in a safe place and rest.
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Night Vision
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these
differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as
much light
to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
What you do
in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example,
if you spend the day
in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses.
Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting
to night. But if you’re driving,
don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down
on glare from
headlamps, but
they also make a lot of things invisible.
You can be temporarily blinded by approaching lights. It can take a second
or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When
you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high
beams,
or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid
staring directly into the approaching lights.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean
- inside and
out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside
of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights
dazzle and flash more than
clean glass would, making the pupils of your
eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that your headlamps light
up far less of a roadway when you are
in
a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out
dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly
for proper aim,
so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers
suffer from night blindness
- the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t
even aware
of it.
Driving in the Rain
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop,
accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as
on dry roads. And,
if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even
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