steering wheel CHEVROLET TRACKER 2002 2.G Owner's Manual

4-28 Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels
won't get good traction. You can't accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you'll need
longer braking distances.
It's best to use a low gear when you're in mud
-- the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don't
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you'll sense a change in wheel
traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it's very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice.
Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you
and your passengers could drown. Drive your
vehicle on safe surfaces only.

4-30 After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected
on the underbody, chassis or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off
-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired
-- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.

4-41
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold snow or
ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even
more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all.
You can get wet ice when it's about freezing (32F; 0C)
and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet
ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.Unless you have the anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to brake very gently, too. If you do have anti
-lock,
see ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index. This system improves
your vehicle's stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Whether you have the anti
-lock braking
system or not, you'll want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. Without anti
-lock brakes,
if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the
brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to
get the most traction you can.
Remember, unless you have anti
-lock, if you brake
so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you'll just slide.
Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can
still steer.

Whatever your braking system, allow greater following
distance on any slippery road.

Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until
you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On an otherwise
clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas
where the sun can't reach: around clumps of trees,
behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the
surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy
when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a
patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it.
Try not to brake while you're actually on the ice, and
avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

4-45
Follow these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift your automatic transmission into PARK (P),
or your manual transmission to SECOND (2).
3. With the ignition key in the ON position, move the
transfer case to NEUTRAL and make sure the
4WD light on the instrument panel cluster is off.
See ªFour
-Wheel Driveº in the Index.
4. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the
steering wheel.
5. Release the parking brake.
NOTICE:
If you tow your four-wheel-drive vehicle from
the front, make sure to move the transfer case
into NEUTRAL or your vehicle could be badly
damaged and the damage would not be covered
by your warranty.
Stop towing every 200 miles (300 km) and start the
engine. Leave the transfer case shift lever in NEUTRAL.
Shift your automatic transmission to DRIVE (D); leave
a manual transmission in SECOND (2) with the clutch
engaged. Run the engine at medium speed for one minute
to circulate oil in the transfer case. Turn the ignition key
to ACC. Now, you can continue towing your vehicle.
NOTICE:
The front wheels transmit shocks during towing.
The steering column may not be strong enough to
withstand the shocks. Always unlock the steering
wheel before towing.
NOTICE:
Make sure that the towing speed does not
exceed 55 mph (90 km/h), or your vehicle could
be badly damaged.

4-47
The best way to tow your vehicle is from the rear.
Follow these steps:
1. Put the rear wheels on a dolly.
NOTICE:
Do not tow your vehicle with the rear wheels
in contact with the ground, or the transmission
could be damaged.
2. If your vehicle is a four-wheel-drive vehicle,
turn the ignition key to ON, move the transfer
case lever into NEUTRAL and make sure the 4WD
light on the instrument panel cluster is turned off.
See ªFour
-Wheel Driveº in the Index.
3. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the
steering wheel.
4. Make sure the front wheels are facing straight
forward and secure the steering wheel with a
steering wheel clamping device designed for towing.
NOTICE:
Make sure that the towing speed does not
exceed 55 mph (90 km/h), or your vehicle could
be badly damaged.
CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P), for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others
could be injured. Make sure the parking brake
is firmly set before you shift the transfer case
into NEUTRAL.

4-55 Passing
You'll need more passing distance up ahead when
you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good
deal longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond
the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged.
Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you're turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won't strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring (included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you're about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you
are seeing your signal when they are not. It's important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don't shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you are towing a trailer and you have a manual
transmission with FIFTH (5) gear, you may prefer
not to use FIFTH (5). Just drive in FOURTH (4)
(or, as you need to, a lower gear).

5-18
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are
a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever
in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission
to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).
CAUTION: (Continued)

5-32 Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have
the four
-speed automatic, see ªPower Mode Selector
Switchº in the Index for information on traction.
If you have a four
-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and
a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between
FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)),
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on
the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that
may free your vehicle. If that doesn't get you out after
a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can
use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you
do need to be towed out, see ªTowing Your Vehicleº in
the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks.
The hooks are provided at the front and rear of your
vehicle. You may need to use them if you're stuck
off
-road and need to be pulled to some place where
you can continue driving.

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries
6
-6 Filling Your Tank
6
-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-9 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-14 Engine Oil
6
-20 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
6
-22 Passenger Compartment Air Filter
(If Equipped)
6
-24 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-27 Manual Transmission Fluid
6
-33 Engine Coolant
6
-36 Radiator Pressure Cap
6
-37 Power Steering Fluid
6
-38 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-39 Brakes
6
-43 Battery
6
-44 Bulb Replacement6
-48 Tires
6
-56 Appearance Care
6
-57 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-60 Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield,
Backglass and Wiper Blades
6
-60 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-62 Special Care for Canvas Top and
Plastic Windows
6
-63 Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped)
6
-63 Cleaning Tires
6
-64 Finish Damage
6
-64 Underbody Maintenance
6
-65 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-66 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-67 Electrical System
6
-70 Replacement Bulbs
6
-71 Capacities and Specifications
6
-73 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
7-9
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of
this vehicle. The service shown at 120,000 miles
(200 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval
after 120,000 miles (200 000 km) for the life of
this vehicle.
See ªOwner Checks and Servicesº and ªPeriodic
Maintenance Inspectionsº following.Footnotes

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that
the failure to perform this maintenance item will not
nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability
prior to the completion of the vehicle's useful life.
We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance
services be performed at the indicated intervals and
the maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the parking brake lever and cable,
suspension system and propeller shafts and steering
wheel linkage.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire
rotation. See ªBrake System Inspectionº under
ªPeriodic Maintenance Inspectionsº in Part C of
this schedule.