check engine CHRYSLER CARAVAN 2003 User Guide

Kilometers 156 000 160 000 168 000 180 000 192 000
(Miles) (97,500) (100,000) (105,000) (112,500) (120,000)
[Months] [78] [84] [90] [96]
Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X X X
Inspect the brake linings. X
Inspect the engine air cleaner filter, replace
if necessary. *XXXX
Replace theengine air cleaner filter.X
Replace thespark plugson 2.4 liter
engines.X
Replace theignition cableson 2.4 liter
engines.X
Inspect the tie rod ends and boot seals. X
Inspect and adjust the power steering pump
belt tension on 2.4 liter engines.XX
Inspect the generator belt on 2.4 liter
engines, replace if necessary.XX
Check and replace thePCV valve,if
necessary.*X
Inspect the serpentine drive belt on 3.3 liter
engines, replace if necessary. ³XX
Replace thespark plugs3.3 liter engines. X
Replace theignition cables3.3 liter
engines.X
Flush and replace the engine coolant at
100,000 miles, if not done at 60 months.X
Replace theengine timing belton 2.4 liter
engines only.X
Replace the air conditioning filter. X
* This maintenance is recommended by the manu-
facture to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.
³ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.
Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.WARNING: You can be badly injured working on or
around a motor vehicle. Do only that service work
for which you have the knowledge and the right
equipment. If you have any doubt about your ability
to perform a service job, take your vehicle to a
competent mechanic.
0a - 8 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULESRS
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES FOR ALL MARKETS EXCEPT U.S., CANADA and MEXICO (Continued)
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DESCRIPTION Ð DIESEL ENGINES
Maintenance Schedule Information not included in
this section, is located in the appropriate Owner's
Manual.
There are two maintenance schedules that show
therequiredservice for your vehicle.
First is ScheduleªBº. It is for vehicles that are
operated under the conditions that are listed below
and at the beginning of the schedule.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
NOTE: Most vehicles are operated under the condi-
tions listed for Schedule(B(.
Second is ScheduleªAº. It is for vehicles that are
not operated under any of the conditions listed under
Schedule9B9.
Use the schedule that best describes your driving
conditions. Where time and mileage are listed, follow
the interval that occurs first.
CAUTION: Failure to perform the required mainte-
nance items may result in damage to the vehicle.
At Each Stop for Fuel
²Check the engine oil level about 5 minutes after
a fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil
level while the vehicle is on level ground will
improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil
only when the level is at or below the ADD or MIN
mark.
²Check the windshield washer solvent and add if
required.
Once a Month
²Check the tire pressure and look for unusual
wear or damage.
²Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the
terminals as required.
²Check the fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake
master cylinder, power steering and transmission
and add as needed.
²Check all lights and all other electrical items for
correct operation.
At Each Oil Change
²Change the engine oil filter.
²Inspect the exhaust system.
²Inspect the brake hoses.
²Inspect the CV joints and front suspension com-
ponents.
²Check the manual transmission fluid level.
²Check the coolant level, hoses, and clamps.
²Inspect engine accessory drive belts. Replace as
necessary.
²Inspect for the presence of water in the fuel fil-
ter/water separator unit.
²Rotate the tires at each oil change interval (20
000 km).
SCHEDULE ªBº
Follow schedule ªBº if you usually operate your
vehicle under one or more of the following conditions.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
RSMAINTENANCE SCHEDULES0a-9
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES FOR ALL MARKETS EXCEPT U.S., CANADA and MEXICO (Continued)
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Kilometers 10 000 km 20 000 km 30 000 km 40 000 km 50 000 km
Change engine oil and engine oil filter.XXXX X
Inspect engine air filter element. Replace as
necessary.XX X
Replace engine air filter element X X
Replace fuel filter/water separator unit. X X
Check front end alignment. X X
Change the manual transaxle fluid. X
Inspect the tie rod ends and boot seals. X
Inspect the brake linings.XXXX X
Kilometers 60 000 km 70 000 km 80 000 km 90 000 km 100 000
km
Change engine oil and engine oil filter.XXXX X
Inspect engine air filter element. Replace
as necessary.XX
Replace engine air filter element X X X
Replace fuel filter/water separator unit. X X X
Replace engine timing belt.X
Check front end alignment. X X
Change the manual transaxle fluid. X X
Inspect the tie rod ends and boot seals. X
Inspect the brake linings.XXXX X
Kilometers 110 000 km 120 000 km 130 000 km 140 000 km 150 000 km 160 000 km
Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.XXXXX X
Inspect engine air filter
element. Replace as
necessary.XXX
Inspect accessory drive belts
and replace if necessary.X
Replace engine air filter
elementXX X
Replace fuel filter/water
separator unit.XX X
Flush and replace engine
coolant.X
Check front end alignment. X X X
Inspect the tie rod ends and
boot seals.XX
Inspect the brake linings.XXXXX X
Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.
0a - 10 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULESRS
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES FOR ALL MARKETS EXCEPT U.S., CANADA and MEXICO (Continued)
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SCHEDULE ªAº
Kilometers 20 000 km 40 000 km 60 000 km 80 000 km 100 000 km
Change engine oil and engine oil filter.XXXX X
Inspect engine air filter element. Replace
as necessary.XX X
Replace engine air filter element X X
Replace fuel filter/water separator unit.XXXX X
Replace engine timing belt.X
Check front end alignment. X X
Inspect the tie rod ends and boot seals. X X
Inspect the brake linings.XXXX X
Kilometers 120 000 km 140 000 km 160 000 km 180 000 km
Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X X X
Inspect engine air filter element. Replace as
necessary.XX
Inspect accessory drive belts and replace if
necessary.X
Replace engine air filter element X X
Replace fuel filter/water separator unit. X X X X
Flush and replace engine coolant. X
Check front end alignment. X X
Inspect the tie rod ends and boot seals. X X
Inspect the brake linings. X X X X
Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.
WARNING: You can be badly injured working on or
around a motor vehicle. Do only that service work
for which you have the knowledge and the rightequipment. If you have any doubt about your ability
to perform a service job, take your vehicle to a
competent mechanic.
RSMAINTENANCE SCHEDULES0a-11
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES FOR ALL MARKETS EXCEPT U.S., CANADA and MEXICO (Continued)
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THRUST ANGLE
Thrust angle is the averaged direction the rear
wheels are pointing in relation to the vehicle's center
line (Fig. 6). The presence of negative or positive
thrust angle causes the rear tires to track improperly
to the left or right of the front tires (dog tracking).
²Negative thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the left of the front tires.
²Positive thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the right of the front tires.
Improper tracking can cause undue tire wear, a
lead or pull and a crooked steering wheel. Excessive
thrust angle can usually be corrected by adjusting
the rear wheel toe so that each wheel has one-half of
the total toe measurement.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION AND STEERING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine On Turns 1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
Front End Growl Or
Grinding On Turns1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Engine mount grounding 2. Check for motor mount hitting frame rail
and reposition engine as required
3. Worn or broken C/V joint 3. Replace C/V joint
4. Loose wheel lug nuts 4. Verify wheel lug nut torque
5. Incorrect wheel alignment 5. Check and reset wheel alignment
6. Worn tires 6. Replace tires
7. Front strut pin in upper strut mount 7. Replace the front strut upper mount and
bearing
Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns1. Loose lug nuts 1. Verify wheel lug nut torque
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
3. Worn or loose tie rod 3. Tighten or replace tie rod end
4. Worn or loose ball joint 4. Tighten or replace ball joint
5. Worn/loose control arm bushing 5. Replace control arm bushing
6. Loose stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten stabilizer bar to specified torque
7. Loose strut mount to body
attachment7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque
8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to specified
torque
Fig. 6 Thrust Angle
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-49
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to specified
torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
Lateral Pull 1. Unequal tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Radial tire lead 2. Perform lead correction procedure
3. Incorrect front wheel camber 3. Check and reset front wheel camber
4. Power steering gear imbalance 4. Replace power steering gear
5. Wheel braking 5. Correct braking condition causing
lateral pull
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft
coupler4. Replace steering shaft coupler
2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
TRAVEL (ONE FRONT
WHEEL LOCKS UP
DURING HARD BRAKING)1. One of the two hydraulic circuits
to the front brakes is malfunctioning.1. Inspect system for leaks. Check
master cylinder for internal malfunction.
PEDAL PULSATES/
SURGES DURING
BRAKING1. Rear brake drum out of round or
disc brake rotor has excessive
thickness variation.1. Isolate condition as rear or front.
Reface or replace brake drums or
rotors as necessary.
PEDAL IS SPONGY 1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes.
2. Power brake booster runout
(vacuum assist).2. Check booster vacuum hose and
engine tune for adequate vacuum
supply. Refer to power brake booster
diagnosis and testing.
PREMATURE REAR
WHEEL LOCKUP1. Contaminated brake shoe linings. 1. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
2. Inoperative proportioning valve
(non-ABS vehicles).2. Refer to proportioning valve
diagnosis and testing. Replace valve as
necessary.
3. Improper power brake booster
assist.3. Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
STOP/BRAKE LAMPS
S TAY O N1. Brake lamp switch out of
adjustment.1. Replace brake lamp switch.
2. Brake pedal binding. 2. Inspect and replace as necessary.
3. Obstruction in pedal linkage. 3. Remove obstruction.
4. Power Brake Booster not allowing
pedal to return completely.4. Replace power brake booster.
VEHICLE PULLS TO
RIGHT OR LEFT ON
BRAKING1. Frozen brake caliper piston. 1. Replace frozen piston or caliper.
Bleed brakes.
2. Contaminated brake shoe lining. 2. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
3. Pinched brake lines. 3. Replace pinched line.
4. Leaking piston seal. 4. Replace piston seal or brake caliper.
5. Suspension problem. 5. Refer to the Suspension group.
PARKING BRAKE -
EXCESSIVE HANDLE
TRAVEL1. Rear drum brakes or rear disc
brake parking brake shoes out of
adjustment.1. Adjust rear drum brake shoes, or
rear parking brake shoes on vehicles
with rear disc brakes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BASE BRAKE
BLEEDING
NOTE: This bleeding procedure is only for the vehi-
cle's base brakes hydraulic system. For bleeding
the antilock brakes hydraulic system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - ABS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
cover, thoroughly clean the cover and master cylin-
der fluid reservoir to prevent dirt and other foreign
matter from dropping into the master cylinder fluid
reservoir.
RSBRAKES - BASE5-7
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
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The power brake booster can be identified by the
tag attached to the body of the booster (Fig. 57). This
tag contains the production part number, the date it
was built, and who the manufacturer of the power
brake booster is.
NOTE: The power brake booster assembly is not a
repairable component and must be replaced as a
complete assembly if found to be faulty in any way.
The check valve located on the power brake
booster face is not repairable, but it can be
replaced separately from the power brake booster.
The different engine combinations used in this
vehicle require different vacuum hose routings to the
power brake booster. All vacuum hoses must be
routed from the engine to the power brake booster
without kinks or excessively tight bends.
OPERATION
The power brake booster reduces the amount of
force required by the driver to obtain the necessary
hydraulic pressure to stop a vehicle.
The power brake booster is vacuum operated. The
vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the
engine through a vacuum hose and the power brake
booster check valve (Fig. 56).As the brake pedal is depressed, the power brake
booster's input rod moves forward (Fig. 56). This
opens and closes valves in the power booster allowing
atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of a dia-
phragm. Engine vacuum is always present on the
other side. This difference in pressure forces the out-
put rod of the power brake booster out against the
primary piston of the master cylinder. As the pistons
in the master cylinder move forward this creates the
hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
Fig. 56 Power Brake Booster (Typical)
1 - VACUUM CHECK VALVE
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
3 - INPUT ROD
4 - POWER BOOSTER ASSEMBLY TO DASH PANEL MOUNTING
STUDS (4)
5 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUDS (2)
6 - OUTPUT ROD
Fig. 57 MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOSTER
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
RSBRAKES - BASE5-41
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
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If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary toprevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:
(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 58).
Fig. 58 Master Cylinder And Booster
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - 42 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
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CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(12) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
(13) Disconnect primary and secondary brake
tubes from ABS integrated control unit or non-ABS
junction block (Fig. 59). Install sealing plugs in the
now open brake tube ports and install caps on ends
of tubes.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake
tubes from the master cylinder when removing the
master cylinder from the vacuum booster.
(14) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 59).
(15) Slide master cylinder straight out of power
brake booster. Remove master cylinder with primary
and secondary tubes from vehicle.
CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever the
master cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
(16) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve
located on vacuum booster.DO NOT REMOVE
CHECK VALVE FROM POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER.(17) Inside vehicle, remove silencer panel under
instrument panel below steering column.
(18) Locate the booster input rod to brake pedal
connection under the instrument panel. Position a
small screwdriver between the center tang on the
power brake booster input rod to brake pedal pin
retaining clip (Fig. 60).
(19) Rotate screwdriver enough to allow retaining
clip center tang to pass over end of brake pedal pin.
Then pull retaining clip off brake pedal pin.Discard
retaining clip. It is not to be reused. Replace
only with a new retaining clip when assem-
bling.
(20) Slide booster input rod off pedal pin.
(21) Remove the four nuts attaching power brake
booster to dash panel (Fig. 61).
(22) Slide power brake booster forward and remove
through engine compartment (Fig. 62).
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the power
brake vacuum booster. It is serviced ONLY as a
complete assembly.
REMOVAL - RHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
Fig. 59 Master Cylinder Mounting
1 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING NUTS
2 - MASTER CYLINDER
3 - SECONDARY TUBE NUT AT ICU
4 - PRIMARY TUBE NUT AT ICU
Fig. 60 Vacuum Booster Input Rod Retaining Pin
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - INPUT ROD
3 - SCREWDRIVER
4 - RETAINING CLIP
5 - BRAKE PEDAL PIN
RSBRAKES - BASE5-43
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
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