steering wheel CHRYSLER CARAVAN 2003 Owner's Manual

(6) Install tie rod end into knuckle steering arm.
Start nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud
of tie rod end stationary using a socket (Fig. 11),
tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut.
Tighten the tie rod end nut to a torque of 75 N´m (55
ft. lbs.).
(7) If equipped with antilock brakes, install wheel
speed sensor and mounting bolt on steering knuckle
(Fig. 13). Tighten the speed sensor bolt to a torque of
7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(8) Install brake rotor on hub and bearing (Fig. 9).
(9) Install disc brake caliper and adapter assembly
on steering knuckle. Install adapter amounting bolts
and tighten to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(10) Clean any debris from the threads of the
outer C/V joint stub axle.
(11) Install the washer and hub nut on stub axle.
(12) Have a helper apply the vehicle's brakes to
keep hub from turning, then tighten hub nut to a
torque of 244 N´m (180 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install the spring wave washer on the end of
the stub axle.
(14) Install the hub nut lock, and anewcotter pin
(Fig. 8). Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the
hub nut lock.
(15) Install wheel and tire assembly. Install and
tighten the wheel mounting nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half the required speci-
fication. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the
full specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Set front wheel alignment camber and toe as
necessary. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
LOWER BALL JOINT
DESCRIPTION
The ball joint is an integral part of the lower con-
trol arm (Fig. 1). The ball joint has a tapered stud
that is pressed into the aluminum knuckle. The ball
joint stud is threaded on the end for a retainer nut.
The ball joint has a non-vented seal boot. The seal
boot has an integrated heat shield.
The ball joint used in the lower control arm of this
vehicle is a sealed-for-life ball joint and requires no
maintenance lubrication. The ball joint has been
lubricated-for-life during the manufacturing process.
A special fitting cap is installed on the fill port. This
cap must not be removed and replaced with a com-
mon zirc fitting. The special cap is there to eliminate
the possibility of lubrication latter during the ball
joints life, thus damaging the non-vented seal boot.
NOTE: The ball joint does not require any type of
additional lubrication for the life of the vehicle. No
attempt should be made to ever add any lubrication
to the lower ball joint.
OPERATION
The ball joint is a pivotal joint on the lower control
arm that allows the knuckle to move up and down,
and turn with ease.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER BALL
JOINT
With the weight of the vehicle resting on the road
wheels, grasp the special fitting cap on the bottom of
the ball joint and with no mechanical assistance or
added force, attempt to rotate the grease fitting.
If the ball joint is worn, the grease fitting will
rotate easily. If movement is noted, replacement of
the control arm is recommended.
LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL
BOOT
DESCRIPTION - EXPORT
The lower ball joint seal boot is a two piece unit. It
consists of the seal boot, plus a separate shield that
is located in a groove at the top of the seal boot.
NOTE: The seal boot should only be replaced if
damaged during vehicle service. The entire lower
control arm should be replaced if the joint has been
contaminated.
Fig. 16 Correctly Installed Eccentric Attaching Bolt
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - FLANGED BOLT IN TOP HOLE
3 - CAM BOLT IN BOTTOM HOLE
4 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - 10 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
KNUCKLE (Continued)
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REMOVAL
REMOVAL - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
(1) Remove steering knuckle from vehicle. (Refer
to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE -
REMOVAL)
(2) Using a screw driver or other suitable tool, pry
the seal boot off of the ball joint (Fig. 17)
(3) Inspect the ball joint for evidence of dirt or
water intrusion and wipe clean as necessary. If dirt
or water intrusion is extreme and joint cannot be
properly cleaned, the lower control arm will need to
be replaced. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/
LOWER CONTROL ARM - REMOVAL)
REMOVAL - EXPORT
(1) Remove steering knuckle from vehicle. (Refer
to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove shield from seal boot by gently pulling
on it.
(3) Using a screw driver or other suitable tool, pry
seal boot off lower ball joint.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
(1) Place a liberal dab of MopartWheel Bearing
Grease around the base of the ball joint stem at the
socket.
(2) Install aNEWseal boot by hand as far as pos-
sible on the ball joint. Installation of the seal boot is
to be with the shield positioned as shown (Fig. 18).CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the
sealing boot on the ball joint. Damage to the seal-
ing boot will occur if excessive pressure is applied
to the sealing boot when it is being installed.
(3) Place Installer, Special Tool 6758, over seal
boot and squarely align it with bottom edge of seal
boot (Fig. 19). Apply hand pressure (or gently tap
with a hammer) to Special Tool 6758 until seal boot
is pressed squarely against top surface of lower con-
trol arm.
Fig. 17 Ball Joint Seal Boot Removal (Typical)
1 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
2 - BALL JOINT STUD
3 - SEAL BOOT
4 - SCREW DRIVER
5 - BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY
Fig. 18 Ball Joint Seal Boot Installed Position
(Typical)
1 - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
2 - BALL JOINT STUD
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - SHIELD
Fig. 19 Installing Ball Joint Seal Boot
1 - SHIELD
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6758
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-11
LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT (Continued)
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(4) Wipe any grease off the ball joint stem using a
clean shop towel with MopartBrake Parts Cleaner
applied to it.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to install a normal grease
zirc in the ball joint an lubricate the joint through
the zirc fitting.
(5) Reinstall steering knuckle on vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLA-
TION)
INSTALLATION - EXPORT
(1) Place a liberal dab of MopartWheel Bearing
Grease around the base of the ball joint stem at the
socket.
(2) Install aNEWseal boot by hand as far as pos-
sible on the ball joint.
CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the
sealing boot on the ball joint. Damage to the seal-
ing boot will occur if excessive pressure is applied
to the sealing boot when it is being installed.
(3) Place Installer, Special Tool 6758, over seal
boot and squarely align it with bottom edge of seal
boot (Fig. 20). Apply hand pressure to Special Tool
6758 until seal boot is pressed squarely against top
surface of lower control arm.
(4) Wipe any grease off the ball joint stem.
(5) Place the shield over the top of the seal boot
and stretch it into the groove at the top of the seal
boot.CAUTION: Do not attempt to install a normal grease
zirc in the ball joint and lubricate the joint through
the zirc fitting.
(6) Reinstall steering knuckle on vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLA-
TION)
LOWER CONTROL ARM
DESCRIPTION
The lower control arm is mounted to the front sus-
pension crossmember using a pivot bolt through the
center of the front pivot bushing, and the front sus-
pension cradle crossmember reinforcement traps the
rear bushing in the crossmember (Fig. 1).
The lower control arm is an iron casting with two
rubber bushings and a ball joint. The lower control
arm front bushing is the spool type and is pressed
into the lower control arm. The standard (Low-line)
lower control arm rear bushing is a push-on bushing
that is pushed over a stem on the rear of the lower
control arm. The optional (High-line, Premium,
Sport) lower control arm rear bushing is a hydro-
bushing that is pressed on. It has liquid filled voids
that provide more effective dampening than the stan-
dard bushing. Vehicles with rear hydro-bushings uti-
lize a different lower control arm than vehicles with
standard bushings. They have a straight slightly
tapered round stem where the hydro-bushing is
mounted whereas the standard arm has a straight
stem with a squared knob on the end to retain the
bushing.
The lower control arm ball joint is pressed into the
outer end of the arm. The ball joint has a tapered
stud and retainer nut for fastening it to the steering
knuckle.
OPERATION
The lower control arm supports the lower end of
the steering knuckle and allows for the up and down
movement of the suspension during the jounce and
rebound travel. The lower control arm ball joint con-
nects the arm to the steering knuckle.
REMOVAL - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the bolts fastening the power steering
cooler to the front suspension cradle crossmember
reinforcement (Fig. 21).
Fig. 20 Installing Ball Joint Seal Boot (Typical)
1 - SHIELD (NOT ON RG VEHICLE)
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6758
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
2 - 12 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT (Continued)
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153 N´m (113 ft. lbs.). Tighten the M-12 size bolts to
a torque of 106 N´m (78 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the lower control arm rear bushing
retainer bolts through reinforcement on each side of
each lower control arm rear bushing. Tighten these
M-10 size bolts to a torque of 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the two bolts and bushings attaching
the reinforcement and rear of cradle crossmember to
body of vehicle (Fig. 22). Tighten bolts to a torque of
163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the power steering cooler (Fig. 21).
Tighten bolts to a torque of 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.).
(7) Reinstall steering knuckle, brake rotor and cal-
iper. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE
- INSTALLATION)
CAUTION: When locating jack stands under lower
control arms, do not place the jack stands under
the ball joints (Fig. 30).
(8) Position jack stands under the lower control
arms as close to the ball joints as possible (Fig. 30).
Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands until the jack
stands are supporting the total weight of the vehicle.
(9) Tighten front lower control arm pivot bolt to a
torque of 183 N´m (135 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install
and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(11) Raise vehicle, remove jack stands and lower
vehicle to the ground.(12) Perform front wheel alignment as necessary.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
STABILIZER BAR
DESCRIPTION
The stabilizer bar interconnects both front struts of
the vehicle and is attached to the front crossmember
(Fig. 1).
Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the front cross-
member is through 2 rubber-isolator cushion bush-
ings and retainers. A double ball jointed stabilizer
bar link is used to attach each end of the stabilizer
bar to the front strut assemblies. All parts of the sta-
bilizer bar are replaceable as individual components.
The stabilizer bar to front crossmember cushion
bushings are split for easy removal and installation.
The split in the bushings should be positioned toward
the rear of the vehicle, with the square corner facing
down, when the stabilizer bar is installed.
OPERATION
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one
wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel
of the vehicle through the stabilizer bar. This helps
to minimize the body roll of the vehicle during sus-
pension movement.
Connecting the stabilizer bar links to the strut
assemblies helps reduce the fore-and-aft rate of the
stabilizer bar from the rest of the front suspension.
Fig. 29 Lower Control Arm Bushing Pivot Bolt
Correctly Installed
1 - PIVOT BOLT
2 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
3 - FRONT SUSPENSION CRADLE CROSSMEMBER
Fig. 30 Jack Stands Supporting Vehicle Weight
1 - LOWER CONTROL ARMS
2 - BALL JOINT
3 - JACK STANDS
4 - BALL JOINT
2 - 16 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)
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(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from loca-
tion on front of vehicle requiring strut removal.
(3) If both strut assemblies are to be removed,
mark the strut assemblies right or left according to
which side of the vehicle they were removed from.
(4) Remove the hydraulic brake hose routing
bracket and the speed sensor cable routing bracket
from the strut damper brackets (Fig. 40).
CAUTION: When removing the nut from the stud of
the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud to
rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the stud (Fig. 41).
(5) Remove the stabilizer bar link from the bracket
on the strut assembly (Fig. 41). To do so, place an
open-end wrench on the flat machined into the link's
mounting stud, then remove the nut while holding
the wrench in place. Push the stud out of the
bracket.
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Remove nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
(6) Remove the 2 strut assembly clevis bracket to
steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).
(7) Remove the 3 nuts attaching the strut assem-
bly upper mount to the strut tower (Fig. 43) and
remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
(8) To disassemble the strut assembly, (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT - DISASSEMBLY).
DISASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY
The strut assembly must be removed from the
vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled.
For the disassembly and assembly of the strut
assembly, use of Strut Spring Compressor, Pentastar
Service Equipment (PSE) tool W-7200, or the equiva-
lent, is recommended to compress the coil spring.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions closely.
Fig. 40 Brake Hose And Speed Sensor Cable
Routing
1 - STRUT DAMPER
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CABLE
3 - ROUTING BRACKET
4 - HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE
5 - ATTACHING BOLT
6 - ROUTING BRACKET
Fig. 41 Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attachment
1 - NUT
2 - STRUT
3 - STABILIZER BAR LINK
Fig. 42 Strut Damper Attachment To Steering
Knuckle
1 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - TIE ROD END
4 - ROTOR
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-21
STRUT (Continued)
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sion is relieved, make sure the upper mount, pivot
bearing and upper seat are align properly. Remove
the clamp from the lower end of the coil spring and
strut. Push back the spring compressor upper and
lower hooks, then remove the strut assembly from
the spring compressor.
(13) Install strut assembly on the vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT - INSTALLA-
TION)
INSTALLATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Front strut coil springs are side-oriented.
When installing a strut assembly, make sure the
strut being installed has the correct coil spring for
that side of the vehicle. Springs on the left side of
the vehicle have a left-hand wind top-to-bottom
while springs on the right side have a right-hand
wind top-to-bottom (Fig. 49). Do not interchange the
two sides.
(1) Install strut assembly into strut tower, aligning
and installing the 3 studs on the upper strut mount
into the holes in shock tower. Install the 3 upper
strut mount attaching nut/washer assemblies (Fig.
43). Then using a crow foot. tighten the 3 attaching
nuts to a torque of 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
NOTE: The strut clevis-to-steering knuckle bolts are
installed differently on each side of the vehicle. Left
hand side bolts are to be installed from vehicle rear
to front. Right side bolts are to be installed from
vehicle front to rear.(2) Align strut assembly with steering knuckle.
Position arm of steering knuckle into strut assembly
clevis bracket. Align the strut assembly clevis
bracket mounting holes with the steering knuckle
mounting holes. Install the 2 strut assembly to steer-
ing knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).If strut assem-
bly is attached to steering knuckle using a cam
bolt, the cam bolt must be installed in the lower
slotted hole on strut clevis bracket.Tighten the
strut clevis-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts to a
torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 1/4
(90É) turn after specified torque is met.
(3) Install the stabilizer bar link mounting stud
through the bracket on the strut assembly (Fig. 41).
CAUTION: When installing the nut on the mounting
stud of the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud
to rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating
by placing an open-end wrench on the flat
machined into the stud (Fig. 41).
(4) Hand thread the nut on the end of the stabi-
lizer bar link stud. Hold the stud from turning by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the link's mounting stud, then tighten the nut
while holding the wrench in place (Fig. 41). Tighten
the nut to a torque of 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic brake hose and speed sen-
sor cable routing brackets on the strut assembly
brackets (Fig. 40). Tighten the routing bracket
attaching bolts to a torque of 13 N´m (10 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the wheel/tire assembly on the vehicle.
(7) Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud
nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to
half specification. Then repeat the tightening
sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-25
STRUT (Continued)
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WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT.......46
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION
AND STEERING......................49
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.........................51STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT......................54
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT...................55
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity, and proper tire wear.
The method of checking a vehicle's front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufac-
turer and type of equipment used. The manufactur-
er's instructions should always be followed to ensure
accuracy of the alignment, except when
DaimlerChrysler Corporation's wheel alignment spec-
ifications differ.
On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:
²Front Camber (with camber bolt package and
standard procedure)
²Front Toe
Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel
alignment adjustments with the vehicle standing at
its proper curb height specification. Curb height is
the normal riding height of the vehicle. It is mea-
sured from a certain point on the vehicle to the
ground or a designated area while the vehicle is sit-
ting on a flat, level surface. Refer to Curb Height
Measurement in this section for additional informa-
tion.
Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.
CAMBER
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea-
sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.
²Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear
at the inside of the tire.²Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear
on the outside of the tire.
CROSS CAMBER
Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
Fig. 1 Camber
1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP
2 - 46 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
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TOE-OUT ON TURNS
Toe-out on turns is the relative positioning of the
front wheels while steering through a turn (Fig. 4).
This compensates for each front wheel's turning
radius. As the vehicle encounters a turn, the out-
board wheel must travel in a larger radius circle
than the inboard wheel. The steering system is
designed to make each wheel follow its particular
radius circle. To accomplish this, the front wheels
must progressively toe outward as the steering is
turned from center. This eliminates tire scrubbing
and undue tire wear when steering a vehicle through
a turn.
DYNAMIC TOE PATTERN
Dynamic toe pattern is the inward and outward toe
movement of the front and rear tires through the
suspension's jounce and rebound travel. As the vehi-
cle's suspension moves up and down, the toe pattern
varies. Toe pattern is critical in controlling the direc-
tional stability of the vehicle while in motion. Front
and rear dynamic toe pattern is preset by the factory
at the time the vehicle is assembled.
It is not necessary to check or adjust front or rear
dynamic toe pattern when doing a normal wheel
alignment. The only time dynamic toe pattern needs
to be checked or adjusted is if the frame of the vehi-
cle has been damaged.
STEERING AXIS INCLINATION (S. A. I.)
Steering axis inclination is the angle between a
true vertical line starting at the center of the tire at
the road contact point and a line drawn through the
center of the upper ball joint (or strut) and the lower
ball joint (Fig. 5). S.A.I. is built into the vehicle and
is not an adjustable angle. If S.A.I. is not within
specifications, a bent or damaged suspension compo-
nent may be the cause.
INCLUDED ANGLE (I. A.)
Included angle is the sum of the S.A.I. angle plus
or minus the camber angle, depending on whether or
not the wheel has positive or negative camber (Fig.
5). If camber is positive, add the camber angle to the
S.A.I. angle. If camber is negative, subtract the cam-
ber angle from the S.A.I. angle. Included angle is not
adjustable, but can be used to diagnose a frame mis-
alignment or bent suspension component (spindle,
strut).
Fig. 4 Toe-Out On Turns
1 - TOE-OUT ON TURNS
Fig. 5 S.A.I. and I.A.
1 - S.A.I.
2 - CAMBER
3 - I.A.
2 - 48 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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THRUST ANGLE
Thrust angle is the averaged direction the rear
wheels are pointing in relation to the vehicle's center
line (Fig. 6). The presence of negative or positive
thrust angle causes the rear tires to track improperly
to the left or right of the front tires (dog tracking).
²Negative thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the left of the front tires.
²Positive thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the right of the front tires.
Improper tracking can cause undue tire wear, a
lead or pull and a crooked steering wheel. Excessive
thrust angle can usually be corrected by adjusting
the rear wheel toe so that each wheel has one-half of
the total toe measurement.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION AND STEERING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine On Turns 1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
Front End Growl Or
Grinding On Turns1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Engine mount grounding 2. Check for motor mount hitting frame rail
and reposition engine as required
3. Worn or broken C/V joint 3. Replace C/V joint
4. Loose wheel lug nuts 4. Verify wheel lug nut torque
5. Incorrect wheel alignment 5. Check and reset wheel alignment
6. Worn tires 6. Replace tires
7. Front strut pin in upper strut mount 7. Replace the front strut upper mount and
bearing
Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns1. Loose lug nuts 1. Verify wheel lug nut torque
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
3. Worn or loose tie rod 3. Tighten or replace tie rod end
4. Worn or loose ball joint 4. Tighten or replace ball joint
5. Worn/loose control arm bushing 5. Replace control arm bushing
6. Loose stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten stabilizer bar to specified torque
7. Loose strut mount to body
attachment7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque
8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to specified
torque
Fig. 6 Thrust Angle
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-49
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears
or bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to specified
torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
Lateral Pull 1. Unequal tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Radial tire lead 2. Perform lead correction procedure
3. Incorrect front wheel camber 3. Check and reset front wheel camber
4. Power steering gear imbalance 4. Replace power steering gear
5. Wheel braking 5. Correct braking condition causing
lateral pull
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft
coupler4. Replace steering shaft coupler
2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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