washer fluid CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY 2002 Service Manual
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Page 84 of 2399
CAUTION: If the vehicle being serviced is equipped
with eccentric strut assembly attaching bolts, the
eccentric bolt must be installed in the bottom (slot-
ted) hole on the strut clevis bracket (Fig. 10).
(7) Install steering knuckle in clevis bracket of
strut damper assembly. Install the strut damper to
steering knuckle attaching bolts. Tighten both bolts
to a torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional
1/4 turn.
(8) Install braking disc on hub and bearing assem-
bly.(9) Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering
knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of
caliper assembly under abutment on steering
knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top
abutment.
(10) Install disc brake caliper adapter to steering
knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 4). Tighten the disc
brake caliper adapter attaching bolts to a torque of
169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(11) Clean all foreign matter from the threads of
the outer CV joint. Install the washer and half shaft
to hub/bearing assembly nut on half shaft and
securely tighten nut.
(12) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install
and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the
required specification. Then repeat the tightening
sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
(13) Lower vehicle.
(14) With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub
from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244
N´m (180 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 11).
(15) Install the spring wave washer on the end of
the half shaft.
(16) Install the hub nut lock, and anewcotter pin
(Fig. 2). Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the
hub nut lock as shown in (Fig. 2).
(17) Check for correct fluid level in transaxle
assembly. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC - 41TE/FLUID - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
Fig. 9 Outer CV Joint Inspection
1 - OUTER C/V JOINT
2 - THIS AREA OF OUTER C/V JOINT MUST BE FREE OF ALL
DEBRIS AND MOISTURE, BEFORE INSTALLATION INTO
STEERING KNUCKLE.
Fig. 10 Correctly Installed Eccentric Attaching Bolt
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - FLANGED BOLT IN TOP HOLE
3 - CAM BOLT IN BOTTOM HOLE
4 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
Fig. 11 Torquing Front Half Shaft To Hub Nut
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
RSHALF SHAFT - FRONT3-5
HALF SHAFT - FRONT (Continued)
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adjustment, maintenance or fluid checks required
during the life of the unit.
The overrunning clutch allows the rear wheels to
overrun the front wheels during a rapid front wheel
lock braking maneuver. The overrunning action pre-
vents any feed-back of front wheel braking torque to
the rear wheels. It also allows the braking system to
control the braking behavior as a two wheel drive
(2WD) vehicle.
The overrunning clutch housing has a separate oil
sump and is filled independently from the differen-
tial. The fill plug is located on the side of the over-
running clutch case. When filling the overrunning
clutch with lubricant use MopartATF+4 (Automatic
Transmission FluidÐType 9602) or equivalent.
The differential assembly contains a conventional
open differential with hypoid ring gear and pinion
gear set. The hypoid gears are lubricated by SAE
80W-90 gear lubricant.DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR DRIVELINE
MODULE NOISE
Different sources can be the cause of noise that the
rear driveline module assembly is suspected of mak-
ing. Refer to the following causes for noise diagnosis.
DRIVELINE MODULE ASSEMBLY NOISE
The most important part of driveline module ser-
vice is properly identifying the cause of failures and
noise complaints. The cause of most driveline module
failures is relatively easy to identify. The cause of
driveline module noise is more difficult to identify.
If vehicle noise becomes intolerable, an effort
should be made to isolate the noise. Many noises that
are reported as coming from the driveline module
may actually originate at other sources. For example:
²Tires
²Road surfaces
Fig. 1 AWD Driveline Module Assembly
1 - TORQUE ARM 8 - WASHER 15 - PLUG-OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HOUSING DRAIN
2 - INPUT FLANGE 9 - BI-DIRECTIONAL OVERRUNNING CLUTCH (BOC) 16 - SNAP RING
3 - FLANGE NUT 10 - VISCOUS COUPLER 17 - BEARING
4 - WASHER 11 - SHIM (SELECT) 18 - OVERRUNING CLUTCH HOUSING
5 - SHIELD 12 - O-RING 19 - SEAL-INPUT FLANGE
6 - VENT 13 - DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
7 - O-RING 14 - PLUG-DIFFERENTIAL FILL
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-25
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR DRIVELINE
MODULE OPERATION
Driveline module operation requires relatively
straight-forward diagnosis. Refer to the following
chart:
DRIVELINE MODULE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Rear wheels not
overrunning1) Bi-directional overrunning clutch
failure1) Replace overrunning clutch
components as required
No AWD in forward or
reverse directions, propeller
shaft turning1) Bi-directional overrunning clutch
failure1) Replace overrunning clutch
components as required
2) Viscous coupling failure 2) Replace viscous coupling
3) Rear differential failure 3) Replace the rear differential
assembly
No AWD in forward or
reverse directions, propeller
shaft not turning1) Power transfer unit failure. 1) Replace power transfer unit
components as necessary
Vibration at all speeds,
continuous torque transfer1) Mis-matched tires, worn tires on
front axle.1) Replace worn or incorrect
(mis-matched) tires with same
make and size
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Drain fluid from overrunning clutch housing
and/or differential assembly if necessary.
(3) Remove propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIFFER-
ENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT -
REMOVAL)
(4) Disconnect left and right rear halfshafts from
output flanges (Fig. 2).(5) Remove torque arm mount to body bolts.
(6) Position transmission jack to driveline module
assembly and secure assembly to jack.
(7) Remove two driveline module-to-body bolts
(Fig. 3).
(8) Lower driveline module from vehicle and
remove from jack.
Fig. 2 Half Shaft Mounting Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
Fig. 3 Rear Drive Line Module Assembly Mounting
Bolts
1 - DRIVELINE MODULE RETAINING BOLT (2)
2 - RUBBER ISOLATOR
3 - WASHER
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-27
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
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CAUTION: When installing the tension clip on the
automatic adjuster, it must be located on only the
threaded area of the adjuster assembly (Fig. 32). If
it is located on a non-threaded area of the adjuster,
the function of the automatic adjuster will be
affected.
(7) Install the tension clip (Fig. 32) attaching the
upper return spring to the automatic adjuster assem-
bly.
(8) Install the brake shoe to brake shoe lower
return springs on the brake shoes (Fig. 30) and (Fig.
31).
(9) Install automatic adjustment lever on the lead-
ing brake shoe of the rear brake assembly (Fig. 29).
(10) Install the actuating spring on the automatic
adjustment lever and leading brake shoe assembly
(Fig. 28).
(11) Verify that the automatic adjuster lever has
positive contact with the star wheel on the automatic
adjuster assembly.
(12) When all components of both rear brake
assemblies are correctly and fully installed, remove
the locking pliers from the front park brake cable.
(13) Adjust brake shoes assemblies so as not to
interfere with brake drum installation.
(14) Install the rear brake drums on the hubs.
(15) Adjust rear brake shoes.
(16) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
(17) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half
specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to
the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(18) Lower the vehicle.
(19) Push the parking brake lever (pedal) to the
floor once and release pedal. This will automatically
remove the slack from and correctly adjust the park-
ing brake cables.
(20) Road test vehicle. The automatic adjuster will
continue the brake adjustment during the road test
of the vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOES
NOTE: Normally, self-adjusting drum brakes do not
require manual brake shoe adjustment. Although, in
the event of a brake shoe replacement, it is advis-
able to make the initial adjustment manually to
speed up the adjusting time.
NOTE: Before raising the vehicle, verify the parking
brake lever is fully released.(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(2) Remove rubber plug from rear brake adjusting
hole in the rear brake support plate.
(3) Insert a thin screwdriver through the adjusting
hole in the support plate and against the star wheel
of the adjusting screw. Move handle of the tool
upward rotating the star wheel until a slight drag is
felt when tire and wheel assembly is rotated.
(4) Insert a second thin screwdriver or piece of
welding rod into brake adjusting hole and push the
adjusting lever out of engagement with the star
wheel.Care should be taken so as not to bend
adjusting lever or distort lever spring.
(5) While holding the adjusting lever out of
engagement, back off the star wheel just enough to
ensure a free wheel with no brake shoe drag.
(6) Repeat the above adjustment at the other rear
wheel.
(7) Install the adjusting hole rubber plugs back in
the rear brake support plates.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER -
FRONT
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(DISC/DISC BRAKES)
(1) Depress the brake pedal past its first inch of
travel and hold it in this position using a brake pedal
depressor (holding) tool. This is done to isolate the
master cylinder from the brake hydraulic system dis-
allowing the brake fluid to completely drain out of
the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake
hose to the brake caliper. There are two washers (one
on each side of the brake hose fitting) that will come
off with the banjo bolt. Discard these washers.
(5) Remove the 2 caliper guide pin bolts.
(6) Remove the brake caliper from the adapter.
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(DISC/DRUM BRAKES)
(1) Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress the
brake pedal past its first one inch of travel and hold
it in this position. This will isolate the master cylin-
der from the brake hydraulic system and will not
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASERS
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REAR DRUM (Continued)
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Page 156 of 2399
allow the brake fluid to drain out of the master cyl-
inder reservoir when the lines are opened.
(2) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE.
(3) Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake
hose to the brake caliper (Fig. 40). There are two
washers (one on each side of the flex hose fitting)
that will come off with the banjo bolt. Discard the
washers.
(5) Remove the two brake caliper guide pin bolts
(Fig. 40).
(6) Remove the disc brake caliper from the disc
brake adapter.
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER GUIDE PIN
BUSHINGS (DISC/DISC BRAKES)
Before disassembling the brake caliper, clean and
inspect it. Refer to CLEANING or INSPECTION in
this section.
(1) Using your fingers, collapse one side of the rub-
ber guide pin bushing. Pull the guide pin bushing out
the other side of the brake caliper mounting boss.
(2) Repeat this procedure on the remaining bush-
ing.
DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.
(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.
(4) Mount the caliper in a vise equipped with pro-
tective jaws.
(5) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard.
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 41). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.
Fig. 40 Brake Caliper Mounting (Typical)
1 - BRAKE HOSE
2 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - BANJO BOLT
4 - CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLTS
RSBRAKES - BASE5-27
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - FRONT (Continued)
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Page 159 of 2399
should be taken not to cross thread the caliper
guide pin bolts.
(4) Install the anti-rattle clip on the outboard side
of the caliper. Start the clip into the holes on the cal-
iper, then stretch the clip legs past the abutments on
the caliper adapter.
CAUTION: When connecting the brake hose to the
caliper, install new brake hose to caliper special
copper washers.
(5) Install the brake hose on the caliper. To do
this, first place one NEW special fitting washer on
each side of the hose fitting, then slide the banjo bolt
through the fitting. Next, thread the banjo bolt into
the threaded port on the rear of the brake caliper.
Tighten the banjo bolt to a torque of 47 N´m (35 ft.
lbs.).
(6) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten
the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half specification, then
repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified
torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Remove the brake pedal depressor (holding)
tool.
(9) Bleed the hydraulic brake circuit to the brake
caliper. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(10) Road test the vehicle and make several stops
to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to
seat the brake shoe linings.
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(DISC/DRUM BRAKES)
CAUTION: TRW and Continental Teves brake cali-
pers are not interchangeable. Each caliper is specif-
ically designed for the unique brake system (TRW -
disc/drum brake combination and Continental Teves
- disc/disc brake combination). If calipers are inter-
changed, improper performance, noise and
increased stopping distance can occur.
(1) Completely retract the caliper piston back into
the bore of the caliper. Use a C-clamp to retract the
piston if necessary. Place a wood block over the pis-
ton before installing the C-clamp to avoid damaging
the piston.
CAUTION: Use care when installing the caliper onto
the disc brake adapter to avoid damaging the boots
on the caliper guide pins.
(2) Install the disc brake caliper over the brake
shoes on the brake caliper adapter.(3) Align the caliper guide pin bolt holes with the
guide pins. Install the caliper guide pin bolts and
tighten them to a torque of 35 N´m (26 ft. lbs.) (Fig.
40).
(4) Install the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose
to the brake caliper (Fig. 40). Install NEW copper
washers on each side of the hose fitting as the banjo
bolt is guided through the fitting. Thread the banjo
bolt into the caliper and tighten it to a torque of 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten
the wheel mounting nuts to a torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Remove the brake pedal holding tool.
(8) Bleed the caliper as necessary. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - BASE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Road test the vehicle and make several stops to
wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to
seat the brake shoes.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - REAR
REMOVAL - REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
NOTE: Handling of the rotor and caliper, must be
done in such a way as to avoid damage to the rotor
and scratching or nicking of lining on the brake
shoes.
(1) Depress the brake pedal past its first inch of
travel and hold it in this position using a brake pedal
depressor (holding) tool. This is done to isolate the
master cylinder from the brake hydraulic system dis-
allowing the brake fluid to completely drain out of
the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(3) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly from
vehicle.
(4) Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake
hose to the brake caliper. There are two washers (one
on each side of the brake hose fitting) that will come
off with the banjo bolt. Discard these washers.
(5) Remove the disc brake caliper to adapter guide
pin bolts (Fig. 45).
(6) Remove rear caliper from adapter using the fol-
lowing procedure. First rotate front of caliper up
from the adapter. Then pull the rear of the caliper
and the outboard brake shoe anti-rattle clip out from
under the rear abutment on the adapter (Fig. 46).
(7) If the brake rotor requires removal, it can now
be removed by first removing the retainer clips from
the wheel mounting studs, then pulling the rotor
straight off the studs.
5 - 30 BRAKES - BASERS
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - FRONT (Continued)
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Page 179 of 2399
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 77).
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(12) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
(13) Disconnect primary and secondary brake
tubes from ABS integrated control unit or non-ABS
junction block (Fig. 78). Install sealing plugs in the
now open brake tube ports and install caps on ends
of tubes.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake
tubes from the master cylinder when removing the
master cylinder from the vacuum booster.
(14) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 78).
Fig. 77 Master Cylinder And Booster
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - 50 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
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Page 184 of 2399
(12) Connect wiring harness connector to brake
fluid level switch in the master cylinder fluid reser-
voir (Fig. 77).
(13) Connect primary and secondary brake tubes
to ABS ICU or non-ABS junction block (Fig. 78).
Tighten the tube nuts to 17 N´m (145 in lbs.).
(14) Install wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - INSTALLATION)
(15) If equipped with speed control, install speed
control servo and connect wiring connector. Tighten
the mounting nuts to a torque of 14 N´m (124 in.
lbs.).
(16) Install the battery tray. Install the two nuts
and one bolt attaching the battery tray to the vehicle.
Tighten the bolt and nuts to a torque of 14 N´m (124
in. lbs.).
(17) If vehicle is equipped with speed control, con-
nect the servo vacuum hose to the vacuum tank on
the battery tray.
(18) Install the air inlet resonator and hoses as an
assembly on the throttle body and air cleaner hous-
ing. Securely tighten hose clamp at air cleaner hous-
ing and throttle body.
(19) Secure the engine coolant filler neck to the
battery tray with its mounting screw.
(20) Install the battery, clamp and mounting nut.
(21) Install the positive battery cable on the bat-
tery.
(22) Install the negative battery cable on the bat-
tery.
(23) Install the battery thermal guard shield.
(24) Bleed the base brakes as necessary. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(25) Road test vehicle to ensure operation of the
brakes.
INSTALLATION - RHD
(1) Position power brake booster on dash panel
using the reverse procedure of its removal (Fig. 86).
(2) Below instrument panel, first install the two
upper nuts mounting the booster to the dash panel,
drawing it into place, then install the two lower
mounting nuts. Tighten the mounting nuts to a
torque of 29 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Using lubriplate, or equivalent, coat the sur-
face of the brake pedal torque shaft pin where it con-
tacts the booster input rod.
CAUTION: When installing the brake pedal torque
shaft pin on the power brake booster input rod, do
not re-use the old retaining clip.
(4) Install booster input rod on brake pedal torque
shaft pin and install a NEW retaining clip (Fig. 89).
(5) Install booster input rod trim cover.(6) Connect vacuum hose to check valve on power
brake booster.
CAUTION: The master cylinder (and its rear seal) is
used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on the master
cylinder MUST be replaced with a NEW seal when-
ever the master cylinder is removed from the vac-
uum booster.
CAUTION: When removing the vacuum seal from
the master cylinder, do not use a sharp tool.
(7) Using a soft tool such as a trim stick, remove
the vacuum seal from the master cylinder mounting
flange.
(8) Install a NEW vacuum seal on rear mounting
flange of the master cylinder (Fig. 90).
(9) Position master cylinder on studs of booster,
aligning push rod on booster with master cylinder
piston.
(10) Install the two nuts mounting the master cyl-
inder to the booster (Fig. 83). Tighten both mounting
nuts to a torque of 25 N´m (225 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect wiring harness connector to brake
fluid level switch in the master cylinder fluid reser-
voir (Fig. 82).
(12) If the vehicle is equipped with the 2.5L diesel
engine, install the coolant recovery pressure con-
tainer and bracket. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
COOLANT RECOVERY PRESS CONTAINER -
INSTALLATION)
(13) If equipped with speed control, install speed
control servo and connect wiring connector. Tighten
Fig. 89 Retaining Pin Installed On Brake Pedal Pin
(Typical)
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - RETAINING CLIP
3 - BOOSTER INPUT ROD
RSBRAKES - BASE5-55
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
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Page 345 of 2399
²Back-Up switch
²Brake Fluid Level
²B+ Connection Detection
²Engine Crank Signal (Diesel Engine Vehicles)
²Horn Input
²Ignition Switch Start Only
²Ignition Switch Run and Start Only
²Stop Lamp Sense
²Washer Fluid Level
²Windshield Wiper Park
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FRONT CONTROL
MODULE
The Front Control Module (FCM) is a printed cir-
cuit board based module with a on-board micro-pro-
cessor. The FCM interfaces with other electronic
modules in the vehicle via the Programmable Com-
munications Interface (PCI) data bus. In order to
obtain conclusive testing the PCI data bus and all of
the electronic modules that provide inputs to, or
receive outputs from the FCM must be checked. All
PCI communication faults must be resolved prior to
further diagnosing any front control module related
issues.
The FCM was designed to be diagnosed with an
appropriate diagnostic scan tool, such as the DRB
IIIt. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means
to diagnose the front control module requires the use
of a DRB IIItscan tool and the proper Body Diag-
nostic Procedures manual.
Before any testing of the FCM is attempted, the
battery should be fully charged and all wire harness
and ground connections inspected around the affected
areas on the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the positive and negative battery
cables from the battery.
(2) Remove the battery from the vehicle. Refer to
the procedure in Battery Systems.
(3) Using a long flat-bladed screwdriver, gently
twist the Integrated Power Module (IPM) retaining
clip outboard to free the IPM from its mounting
bracket (Fig. 6). Rotate IPM upward to access the
Front Control Module (FCM) retaining screws.
(4) Remove the front control module retaining
screws.
(5) Using both hands, pull the FCM straight from
the IPM assembly to disconnect the 49-way electrical
connector (Fig. 7) and remove the front control mod-
ule from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Front Control Module must be programmed
to the correct radio EQ curve using the DRB IIIT.This will ensure that the audio system is operating
correctly.
(1) Install the Front Control Module (FCM) in the
Integrated Power Module (IPM) assembly by pushing
the 49-way electrical connector straight in.
(2) Install the FCM retaining screws. Torque the
screws to 1 N´m (7 in. lbs).
(3) Rotate the IPM assembly downward to secure
in mounting bracket.
Fig. 6 REMOVING INTELLIGENT POWER MODULE
Fig. 7 FRONT CONTROL MODULE
1 - FRONT CONTROL MODULE
8E - 8 ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULESRS
FRONT CONTROL MODULE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com
Page 488 of 2399
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
DESCRIPTION..........................1
OPERATION............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SELF-
DIAGNOSTICS.........................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUSTER
DIAGNOSIS...........................2
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................12CLUSTER LENS
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12
MECHANICAL TRANSMISSION RANGE
INDICATOR
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12
RED BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR
DESCRIPTION.........................13
OPERATION...........................13
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
DESCRIPTION
The instrumentation gauges are contained in a
subdial assembly within the instrument cluster. The
individual gauges are not serviceable. If one of the
cluster gauges becomes faulty, the entire cluster
would require replacement.
The mechanical instrument cluster with a tachom-
eter is equipped with a electronic vacuum fluorescent
transmission range indicator (PRND3L), odometer,
and trip odometer display.
The mechanical instrument cluster without a
tachometer is equipped with a cable operated trans-
mission range indicator (PRND21) and a vacuum flu-
orescent odometer display. It also has the following
indicators:
²Turn Signals
²High Beam
²Oil Pressure
²MIL
The instrument cluster is equipped with the follow-
ing warning lamps.
²Lift Gate Ajar
²Low Fuel Level
²Low Windshield Washer Fluid Level
²Cruise
²Battery Voltage
²Fasten Seat Belt
²Door Ajar
²Coolant Temperature
²Anti-Lock Brake
²Brake
²Airbag
²Traction Control
²AutostickThe mechanical instrument cluster without a
tachometer also has the following warning lamps:
²Turns Signals
²High Beam
²Oil Pressure
²Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
WATER IN FUEL LAMP - EXPORT
The Water In Fuel Lamp is located in the instru-
ment cluster. When moisture is found within the fuel
system, the sensor sends a message via the PCI data
bus to the instrument cluster. The sensor is located
underneath the vehicle, directly above the rear axle.
The sensor is housed within the fuel filter/water sep-
arator assembly cover. The sensor is not serviced sep-
arately. If found defective, the entire assembly cover
must be replaced.
OPERATION
Refer to the vehicle Owner's Manual for operation
instructions and conditions for the Instrument Clus-
ter Gauges.
WATER IN FUEL LAMP - EXPORT
The Water In Fuel Sensor is a resistive type
switch. It is calibrated to sense the different resis-
tance between diesel fuel and water. When water
enters the fuel system, it is caught in the bottom of
the fuel filter/water separator assembly, where the
sensor is located. Water has less resistance than die-
sel fuel. The sensor then sends a PCI data bus mes-
sage to the instrument cluster to illuminate the
lamp.
If the lamp is inoperative, perform the self diag-
nostic test on the instrument cluster to check the
lamp operation before continuing diagnosis.
RSINSTRUMENT CLUSTER8J-1
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