maintenance CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2001 Service Manual

(2) Install andlightly tightenthe three remain-
ing wheel mounting nuts, securing the wheel cover in
place (Fig. 25).
(3) Tighten all five wheel mounting nuts in the
proper sequence (Fig. 28). Tighten wheel nuts to a
torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS -
FRONT
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If a wheel mounting stud needs to be
replaced in the hub and bearing assembly, the
studs MUST NOT be hammered out of the hub
flange. If a stud is removed by hammering it out of
the bearing flange, damage to the hub and bearing
assembly will occur leading to premature bearing
failure.
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.
(3) Remove the two adapter mounting bolts secur-
ing both the disc brake caliper adapter to the steer-
ing knuckle (Fig. 29).
(4) Remove the disc brake caliper and adapter as
an assembly from the steering knuckle (Fig. 29).
Hang the assembly out of the way using wire or a
bungee cord. Use care not to overextend the brake
hose when doing this.
(5) Remove brake rotor from hub by pulling it
straight off wheel mounting studs (Fig. 29).
(6) On the wheel mounting stud to be removed,
install a wheel mounting (lug) nut far enough so the
threads on the stud are even with end of nut. Install
Remover, Special Tool C-4150A on hub and bearing
assembly flange and wheel stud (Fig. 30).
(7) Tighten down on special tool, pushing wheel
stud out of the hub flange. When shoulder of wheel
stud is past flange, remove special tool from hub and
bearing. Remove nut from stud and remove stud
from hub flange.
Fig. 26 Two Wheel Mounting Nuts Installed
1 - WHEEL
2 - VALVE STEM
3 - HUB PILOT
4 - NUTS
Fig. 27 Wheel Cover Installation Over Two Nuts
1 - RETAINING TABS
2 - VALVE STEM
3 - BOLT-ON WHEEL COVER
Fig. 28 Nut Tightening Sequence
RSTIRES/WHEELS22-15
WHEEL COVER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install replacement wheel stud into flange of
hub and bearing assembly. Install washers on wheel
stud, then install a wheel mounting (lug) nut on stud
with flat side of lug nut against washers as shown
(Fig. 31).
(2) Tighten the nut, pulling the wheel stud into
the flange of the hub and bearing. When the head ofthe stud is fully seated against the rear of the hub
flange, remove nut and washers from stud.
(3) Install the brake rotor back on the hub and
bearing (Fig. 29).
(4) Install brake caliper and adapter back over
brake rotor aligning adapter with mounting holes on
steering knuckle (Fig. 29).
(5) Install the two adapter mounting bolts securing
the adapter to the steering knuckle. Tighten the
mounting bolts to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting lug nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion, then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Lower vehicle to the ground.
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS -
REAR
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If a wheel attaching stud needs to be
replaced in the hub and bearing assembly the studs
MUST NOT be hammered out of the hub flange. If a
stud is removed by hammering it out of the bearing
flange, damage to the hub and bearing assembly
will occur leading to premature hub and bearing
failure.
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
Fig. 29 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
Fig. 30 Wheel Stud Removal (Typical)
1 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
2 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4150A
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE
5 - WHEEL STUD
Fig. 31 Installing Wheel Stud (Typical)
1 - WASHERS
2 - HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - WHEEL MOUNTING (LUG) NUT
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE
22 - 16 TIRES/WHEELSRS
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS - FRONT (Continued)

When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop lightover the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
RSBODY23-3
BODY (Continued)

(5) Install fuel filler housing to outer quarter
panel.
(6) Verify that all clips on fuel filler housing are
fully engaged to outer quarter panel.
(7) Engage fuel filler lockout link into clip on fuel
fill blocker latch arm.
(8) Install water shield patch covering access hole
in C-pillar.
(9) Install left quarter trim panel.
GRILLE OPENING
REINFORCEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Release hood latch and open hood.
(2) Remove bolts attaching hood latch to cross-
member and position latch out of the way.
(3) Remove radiator sight shield.
(4) Remove engine air inlet resonator.
(5) Remove hood cable.
(6) Remove hood prop rod.
(7) Remove screw attaching coolant recovery bottle
to crossmember.
(8) Remove bolts attaching radiator isolators to
crossmember.
(9) Remove bolts attaching ends of crossmember to
radiator closure panel (Fig. 14) .
(10) Lift crossmember upward and away from
radiator closure panel.
(11) Remove crossmember from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place radiator closure panel crossmember in
position on vehicle.
(2) Insert ends of crossmember between layered
metal sections of radiator closure panel at each side
of radiator.
(3) Align with paint breaks around bolt heads.
(4) Install bolts attaching ends of crossmember to
radiator closure panel (Fig. 14) . Tighten bolts to 19
N´m (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install bolts attaching radiator isolators to
crossmember.
(6) Install screw attaching coolant recovery bottle
to crossmember.
(7) Install bolt attaching air cleaner housing to
crossmember.
(8) Install engine air inlet resonator.
(9) Install radiator sight shield.
(10) Install hood prop rod.
(11) Align hood latch by placing latch over net
pierce tabs. If alignment is required, flatten tabs.
(12) Install bolts attaching hood latch to cross-
member. Tighten bolts to 13.5 N´m (10 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(13) Verify hood latch operation and hood align-
ment.
FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL
(1) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOIST-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Remove front wheel. Refer to section 22, Tires/
Wheels, for recommended procedures.
(3) Remove push-in fasteners holding splash shield
to frame rail forward of suspension.
(4) Remove push-in fasteners holding splash shield
to frame rail rearward of suspension.
(5) Remove screws holding wheelhouse splash
shield to front fender.
(6) Remove splash shield from vehicle (Fig. 15).
Fig. 14 Radiator Closure Panel Crossmember
1 - RADIATOR CLOSURE PANEL CROSSMEMBER
2 - FRONT FASCIA
23 - 194 EXTERIORRS
FUEL FILL DOOR BLOCKER LOCKOUT LINK (Continued)

VAPOR CANISTER
DESCRIPTION
There are 2 EVAP canisters on the vehicle. The vac-
uum and vapor tubes connect to the top of the canister.
It is a charcoal canister (Fig. 11) or (Fig. 12).
OPERATION
All vehicles use a, maintenance free, evaporative
(EVAP) canister. Fuel tank vapors vent into the can-
ister. The canister temporarily holds the fuel vapors
until intake manifold vacuum draws them into the
combustion chamber. The Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) purges the canister through the proportional
purge solenoid. The PCM purges the canister at pre-
determined intervals and engine conditions.
Purge Free Cells
Purge-free memory cells are used to identify the
fuel vapor content of the evaporative canister. Since
the evaporative canister is not purged 100% of thetime, the PCM stores information about the evapora-
tive canister's vapor content in a memory cell.
The purge-free cells are constructed similar to cer-
tain purge-normal cells. The purge-free cells can be
monitored by the DRB IIItScan Tool. The only dif-
ference between the purge-free cells and normal
adaptive cells is that in purge-free, the purge is com-
pletely turned off. This gives the PCM the ability to
compare purge and purge-free operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the 2 hoses (Fig. 11).
(3) Remove bolt.
(4) Pull canister rearward to remove.
REMOVAL - REAR EVAP CANISTER
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove 3 hoses (Fig. 12).
(3) Remove the bolt.
(4) Pull rearward to remove canister.
Fig. 11 FRONT EVAP CANISTER
1 - Front EVAP Canister
2 - Vent Valve
Fig. 12 REAR EVAP CANISTER
1 - Rear EVAP Canister
2 - Front EVAP Canister
3 - Vent Valve
25 - 18 EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONSRS