heater CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2002 User Guide

CLEANING
Drain cooling system and refill with clean water.
Refer to drain and fill procedures in this section. Run
engine with radiator cap installed until upper radia-
tor hose is hot. Stop engine and drain water from
system. If water is dirty; fill, run, and drain system
again, until water runs clear. Refill cooling system
with a 50/50 mixture of the recommended ethylene
glycol and distilled water (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
INSPECTION
After performing a cleaning/flush procedure,
inspect all hoses, clamps and connections for deterio-
ration and leaks. Inspect radiator and heater core for
leaks.
COOLANT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLANT
CONCENTRATION TESTING
Coolant concentration should be checked when any
additional coolant was added to system or after a
coolant drain, flush and refill. The coolant mixture
offers optimum engine cooling and protection against
corrosion when mixed to a freeze point of -37ÉC
(-34ÉF) to -46ÉC (-50ÉF). The use of a hydrometer or a
refractometer can be used to test coolant concentra-
tion.
A hydrometer will test the amount of glycol in a
mixture by measuring the specific gravity of the mix-
ture. The higher the concentration of ethylene glycol,
the larger the number of balls that will float, and
Fig. 1 Temperature Gauge Indications
RSENGINE7-19
ENGINE (Continued)
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ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
The engine block heater is available as an optional
accessory on all models. The heater is operated by
ordinary house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a
power cord located behind the radiator grille. This
provides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole (in place of a core hole plug) in the engine block,
with the heating element immersed in coolant.
OPERATION
The block heater element is submerged in the cool-
ing system's coolant. When electrical power (110 volt
A.C.) is applied to the element, it creates heat. This
heat is transferred to the engine coolant. This pro-
vides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK
HEATER TESTING
If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either
the power cord or the heater element. Test power
cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-
volt test light; test heater element continuity with an
ohmmeter or 12-volt test light.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Disconnect the power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove the
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean block core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly with element loop posi-
tionedupward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw
securely to assure a positive seal.
(4) Install power cord plug to heater.
(5) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor threads
into the top of the thermostat housing (Fig. 3). New
sensors have sealant applied to the threads.
REMOVAL
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
(1) Drain the cooling system below thermostat
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Disconnect coolant temperature sensor electri-
cal connector.
(3) Remove coolant temperature sensor (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install coolant temperature sensor (Fig. 3).
Tighten sensor to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(2) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(3) Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
Fig. 3 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - 2.4L
1 - MAP SENSOR
2 - COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
RSENGINE7-21
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(6) Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT
DESCRIPTION
The engine cooling thermostats are a wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostat is
mounted in a housing on the coolant outlet of the
engine (Fig. 8) or (Fig. 10).
OPERATION
The engine cooling thermostat is a wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostat is
designed to provide the fastest warm up possible by
preventing leakage through it and to guarantee a
minimum engine operating temperature of 88 to
93ÉC (192 to 199ÉF). The thermostat also will auto-
matically reach wide open so it will not restrict flow
to the radiator as temperature of the coolant rises in
hot weather to around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this
temperature the coolant temperature is controlled by
the radiator, fan, and ambient temperature, not the
thermostat.
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolantreaches a predetermined temperature, the wax
expands enough to overcome the closing spring and
water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled cham-
ber (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolant
reaches a predetermined temperature the wax pellet
expands enough to overcome the closing spring and
water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.
Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermo-
stat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermo-
stat with a screwdriver.
Thermostat diagnostics is included in powertrain
control module's (PCM) programing for on-board
diagnosis. The malfunction indicator light (MIL) will
illuminate and a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will
be set when an ªopen too soonº condition occurs. Do
not change a thermostat for lack of heater perfor-
mance or temperature gauge position, unless a DTC
is present. For other probable causes, (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Thermostat failing shut is the normal long term
mode of failure, and normally, only on high mileage
vehicles. The temperature gauge will indicate this
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 2.4L
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system below the thermostat
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove radiator upper hose from the coolant
outlet housing (Fig. 7).
(3) Remove coolant outlet housing bolts and hous-
ing (Fig. 8).
(4) Remove thermostat. Discard gasket and clean
both gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place a new gasket (dipped in clean water) on
the coolant outlet connector surface. Position thermo-
stat with air bleed at the 12 o'clock position in ther-
mostat housing (Fig. 8).
(2) Position the coolant outlet connector and gas-
ket over the thermostat, making sure thermostat is
seated in the thermostat housing.
(3) Position outlet connector to thermostat housing
and install bolts (Fig. 8). Tighten bolts to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
Fig. 6 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
1 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2 - CONNECTOR - ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR
3 - FITTING - HEATER SUPPLY
RSENGINE7-23
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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WATER PUMP - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump has a cast aluminum body and
housing with a stamped steel impeller. The water
pump bolts directly to the block (Fig. 23). The cylin-
der block to water pump seal is provided by a rubber
O-ring. The water pump is driven by the engine tim-
ing belt.
OPERATION
The water pump is the heart of the cooling system.
The coolant is pumped through the engine block, cyl-
inder head, heater core, and radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Remove the right inner splash shield.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(5) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Support engine from the bottom and remove
right engine mount. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
MOUNTING/RIGHT MOUNT - REMOVAL).(7) Remove right engine mount bracket (Fig. 24).
(8) Remove the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- REMOVAL).
(9) Remove timing belt idler pulley.
(10) Hold camshaft sprocket with Special tool
C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1 while removing bolt.
Remove both cam sprockets.
(11) Remove the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COV-
ER(S) - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the generator and bracket (Fig. 24).
(13) Remove water pump to engine attaching
screws (Fig. 25).
CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.
INSPECTION
Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of
these defects:
(1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by
wet coolant traces on the pump body.
(3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the
engine block.
(5) Impeller loose or damaged.
(6) Sprocket or sprocket flange loose or damaged.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body
O-ring locating groove (Fig. 26).
CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in
water pump groove before tightening screws. An
improperly located O-ring may be damaged and
cause a coolant leak.
(2) Assemble pump body to block and tighten
screws to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 25). Pressurize
cooling system to 103.4 Kpa (15 psi) with pressure
tester and check water pump shaft seal and O-ring
for leaks.
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement.
(4) Install the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COVER(S)
- INSTALLATION).
(5) Install camshaft sprockets and torque bolts to
101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) while holding camshaft sprocket
with Special tool C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1.
(6) Install timing belt idler pulley and torque
mounting bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 23 Water Pump
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - WATER PUMP
7 - 32 ENGINERS
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(7) Install the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the generator mount bracket. (Fig. 24)
(9) Install the generator.
(10) Install right engine mount bracket and engine
mount (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/
RIGHT MOUNT - INSTALLATION).
(11) Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(12) Install the accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Lower vehicle and connect battery cable.
WATER PUMP - 3.3/3.8L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump has a die-cast aluminum body
and a plastic impeller. It bolts directly to the timing
chain case cover, using a rubber seal for sealing (Fig.
27). It is driven by the accessory drive belt.
OPERATION
The water pump is the heart of the cooling system.
The coolant is pumped through the engine block, cyl-
inder head, heater core, and radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Remove the accessory drive belt shield.
(3) Remove the accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(4) Remove water pump pulley bolts (Fig. 27).
NOTE: To remove the water pump pulley, it MUST
first be positioned between water pump housing
and drive hub. The pulley can then be removed with
the water pump assembly.
(5) Rotate pulley until openings in pulley align
with water pump drive hub spokes (Fig. 28). Move
pulley inward between pump housing and hub (Fig.
28).
(6) Position pulley to allow access to water pump
mounting bolts. Remove water pump mounting bolts
(Fig. 29).
(7) Remove water pump with the pulley loosely
positioned between hub and the pump body.
(8) Remove and discard the seal.
Fig. 27 Water Pump - 3.3/3.8L Engine
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - PULLEY - WATER PUMP
3 - BOLT - PULLEY
4 - BOLT - WATER PUMP
5 - SEAL - WATER PUMP
Fig. 28 Water Pump Pulley Positioning
1 - HUB - WATER PUMP
2 - PULLEY - WATER PUMP
7 - 34 ENGINERS
WATER PUMP - 2.4L (Continued)
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(5) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement.
(6) Install the accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION)
(7) Install drive belt shield.
(8) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE -
2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The 2.4L engine uses a metal tube to connect the
engine block to the lower radiator hose and heater
return (Fig. 32). The tube has an O-ring for block to
tube sealing and bolts attach the tube to the engine
block.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Remove radiator upper hose to access the hose
connections at the inlet tube.
(3) Remove radiator lower (Fig. 7) and heater
hoses from the inlet tube (Fig. 33).
(4) Remove the two fasteners that hold the inlet
tube to the block.
(5) Rotate tube while removing the tube from the
engine block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect the O-ring for damage before installing
the tube into the cylinder block (Fig. 32).(2) Lube O-ring with coolant and install inlet tube
into the cylinder block opening (Fig. 32).
(3) Install the two inlet tube fasteners and tighten
to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Connect the radiator lower hose (Fig. 7) and
heater hose to inlet tube (Fig. 33).
(5) Install the radiator upper hose.
(6) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE -
3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist and remove the belt
splash shield.
(3) Remove the radiator lower hose from inlet tube
(Fig. 34).
(4) Remove the oil cooler outlet/heater return hose
from inlet tube (only if equipped with engine oil
cooler) (Fig. 35).
(5) Remove the inlet tube bolts (Fig. 36).
(6) Remove the inlet tube (Fig. 36). Discard the
O-ring seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the inlet tube O-ring sealing surfaces on
the timing cover housing and tube.
(2) Apply MopartDielectric Grease or equivalent
to the O-ring before installation.
(3) Position new O-ring seal on inlet tube (Fig. 36).
Fig. 32 Water Pump Inlet TubeÐ2.4L Engine
1 - O-RING
2 - WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
Fig. 33 Water Pump Inlet Tube Hose Connections
1 - WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
2 - HOSE - HEATER RETURN
3 - COOLANT INLET
7 - 36 ENGINERS
WATER PUMP - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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(4) Install the inlet tube (Fig. 36). Tighten bolts to
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect radiator lower hose (Fig. 34) and
heater return hose (if equipped with engine oil
cooler) (Fig. 35) to the inlet tube.
(6) Install the drive belt splash shield and lower
vehicle.
(7) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
Fig. 34 RAD HOSES TO ENGINE - 3.3/3.8L
1 - UPPER HOSE
2 - LOWER HOSE
Fig. 35 Engine Oil Cooler Hoses (Engine Oil Cooler
Equipped)
1 - OIL COOLER INLET TUBE
2 - INLET HOSE
3 - OIL COOLER OUTLET TUBE
4 - OUTLET HOSE
5 - WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
Fig. 36 WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - INLET TUBE
3 - BOLT
4 - BOLT
5 - O-RING
RSENGINE7-37
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
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COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS-DIESEL ENGINE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS LOW1. Diesel engines, due to their
inherent effiency are slower to warm
up than gasoline powered engines,
and will operate at lower
temperatures when the vehicle is
unloaded.1. The low gauge reading may
be normal. Refer to thermostats
in the manual text for
information. See Thermostat
Diagnosis-Diesel Engine.
2. Is the temperature gauge
connected to the temperature gauge
coolant sensor on the engine?2. Check, the engine
temperature sensor connector
in the engine compartment.
3. Is the temperature gauge
operating OK?3. Check gauge operation.
Repair as necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient
temperatures accompanied with poor
heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the
coolant tank. Inspect system for
leaks. Repair leaks as
necessary. Refer to the Coolant
section for WARNINGS and
precautions before removing
the pressure cap.
5. Improper operation of internal
heater doors or heater controls.5. Inspect heater and repair as
necessary. Refer to Heating
and Air Conditioning for
procedures.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS HIGH. COOLANT
MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST OR LEAKING FROM
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep hill
is being climbed, vehicle is operated
in slow moving traffic, or engine is
being idled with very high ambient
(outside) temperature and the air
conditioning is on. Higher altitudes
could aggravate these conditions.1. This may be a temporary
condition and repair is not
necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to
drive the vehicle without any of
the previous conditions.
Observe the temperature
gauge. The gauge should return
to the normal range. If the
gauge does not return to
normal range, determine the
cause for the overheating and
repair.
2. Temperature gauge reading
incorrectly.2. Check gauge. Refer to I/P
group.
3. Coolant low in coolant tank and
radiator.3. Check for coolant leaks and
repair as necessary.
4. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered.4. Tighten cap.
5. Poor seals at pressure/vent cap. 5. (a) Check condition of cap
and cap seals. (b) Check
condition of coolant tank filler
neck. Make sure it does not
leak pressure.
7a - 2 COOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESELRG
COOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
6. Freeze point of antifreeze not
correct. Mixture may be too rich.6. Check antifreeze. Adjust
antifreeze-to-water ratio as
required.
7. Coolant not flowing through
system.7. Check for coolant flow in
coolant tank with engine warm
and thermostat open. Coolant
should be observed flowing
through the tank. If flow is not
observed, determine reason for
lack of flow and repair as
necessary.
8. Radiator or A/C condensor fins
are dirty or clogged.8. Clean debris from radiator or
A/C condensor
9. Radiator core is corroded or
plugged.9. Have radiator re-cored or
replaced.
10. Aftermarket A/C installed without
proper A/C condensor.10. Install proper A/C
condensor.
11. Dragging Brakes. 11. Check and correct as
necessary.
12. Non-factory bug screen is being
used reducing airflow.12. Only a factory screen
should be used.
13. Thermostat partially or
completely shut. This is more
prevalent on high mileage vehicles.13. Check thermostat and
replace if necessary.
14. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 14. Check cylinder head gasket
for leaks.
15. Heater core leaking. 15. Check heater cor for leaks.
Repair as necessary.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING IS
INCONSISTENT
(FLUCTUATES, CYCLES
OR IS ERRATIC)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly. Fluctuation is also
influenced by loads, outside
temperature and extended idle time
with diesel engines.1. A normal condition. No
correction is necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge
and repair as necessary.
3. Gauge reading rises when vehicle
is brought to a stop after heavy use
(engine still running).3. A normal condition. No
correction needed. Gauge
should return to normal range
after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after starting
a warm-iup (hot) engine.4. A normal condition. No
correction needed. Gauge
should return to normal after a
few minutes of engine
operation.
RGCOOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL7a-3
COOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
INADEQUATE AIR
CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE
(COOLING SYSTEM
SUSPECTED)1. Radiator and/or A/C condensor is
restricted, obstructed or dirty
(insects, leaves, etc.)1. Remove restriction or clean
debris from radiator or A/C
condensor.
2. Engine is overheating (heat may
be transferred from radiator to A/C
condensor. High underhood
temperatures due to engine
overheating may also transfer heat
to A/C condensor).2. Correct overheating
condition.
3. The cooling system is equipped
with air seals at the radiator and/or
A/C condensor. If these seals are
missing or damaged, not enough air
flow will be pulled through the
radiator and A/C condensor.3. Check for missing or
damaged air seals. Repair as
necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE. MAY BE
ACCOMPANIED BY LOW
GAUGE READING1. Diesel engines, due to their
inherent efficiency are slower to
warm up than gasoline powered
engines, and will operate at lower
temperatures when the vehicle is
unloaded.1. The lower gauge reading
may be normal.
2. Coolant level low. 2. Pressure test cooling system.
Repair leaks as necessary.
3. Obstruction in heater hose fitting
at engine.3. Remove heater hoses and
check for obstructions. Repair
as necessary.
4. Heater hose kinked. 4. Locate kinked area. Repair
as necessary.
5. Water pump is not pumping water
to heater core. When the engine is
fully warmed up, both heater hoses
should be hot to the touch. If only
one of the hoses is hot the water
pump may not be operating correctly.
The accessory drive belt may also
be slipping causing poor water pump
operation.5. Refer to water pumps in this
group. Repair as necessary. If a
slipping belt is detected, refer to
Engine Accessory Drive Belts in
this group. Repair as
necessary.
HEAT ODOR 1. Various heat shields are used at
certain drive line components. One
or more of these shields may be
missing.1. Locate missing shields.
Repair or replace as necessary.
2. Is temerature gauge reading
above the normal range?2. Refer to the previous
Temperature Gauge Reads
High in these Diagnostic
Charts. Repair as necessary.
3. Is the Cooling fan operating
correctly?3. Refer to Cooling System Fan
in this group for diagnosis.
Repair as necessary.
RGCOOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL7a-5
COOLING 2.5L TURBO DIESEL (Continued)
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