gas type CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2005 Owner's Manual

OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL AND
FILTER CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in the Maintenance Schedule. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTE-
NANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION)
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERN-
MENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION
CENTER IN YOUR AREA.Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Open hood, remove oil fill cap (Fig. 97).
(3) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
Refer to Hoisting and Jacking Recommendations.
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOIST-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain (Fig. 96).
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase (Fig. 96)
and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug
threads for stretching or other damage. Replace
drain plug and gasket if damaged.
(6) Remove oil filter. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL)
(7) Install and tighten drain plug in crankcase.
(8) Install new oil filter. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION)
(9) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil. (Refer to LUBRICA-
TION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION)
(10) Install oil fill cap.
Fig. 95 Engine Oiling System
1 - OIL SUPPLY FOR BALL SOCKET THROUGH PUSH ROD 7 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - OIL SUPPLY PASSAGE FROM SHAFT TO ROCKER ARM 8 - INNER ROTOR
3 - ROCKER SHAFT 9 - RELIEF VALVE
4 - OIL FLOWS TO ONLY ONE PEDASTAL ON EACH HEAD; THIRD
FROM REAR ON RIGHT HEAD, THIRD FROM FRONT ON LEFT
HEAD10 - OIL PAN
5 - ROCKER SHAFT TOWER 11 - OIL SCREEN
6 - CRANKSHAFT 12 - OIL PUMP CASE
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 139
LUBRICATION (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
DESCRIPTION
An engine oil cooler is used on 3.3/3.8L engines
(Heavy Duty Cooling Only) (Fig. 99). The cooler is a
coolant-to-oil type and mounted between the oil filter
and engine block.
OPERATION
Engine oil travels from the oil filter and into the
oil cooler. Engine oil then exits the cooler into the
main gallery. Engine coolant flows into the cooler
from the heater return tube and exits into the water
pump inlet.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM
DRAINING).
(2) Disconnect oil cooler inlet and outlet hoses
(Fig. 98).
(3) Remove oil filter.
(4) Remove oil cooler attachment fitting (Fig. 99).
(5) Remove oil cooler.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate seal and position oil cooler to connec-
tor fitting on oil filter adapter (Fig. 99).
NOTE: Position the flat side of oil cooler parallel to
oil pan rail.
(2) Install oil cooler attachment fitting and tighten
to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 99).(3) Install oil filter.
(4) Connect oil cooler inlet and outlet hoses (Fig.
98).
(5) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING SYSTEM
FILLING).
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When servicing the oil filter avoid
deforming the filter can by installing the remove/in-
stall tool band strap against the can-to-base lock
seam. The lock seam joining the can to the base is
reinforced by the base plate.
(1) Using suitable oil filter wrench, turn filter
counterclockwise to remove from oil filter adapter
(Fig. 100). Properly discard used oil filter.
INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe oil filter adapter base clean and inspect
gasket contact surface.
(2) Lubricate gasket of new filter with clean
engine oil.
(3) Install new filter until gasket contacts base
(Fig. 100). Tighten filter 1 turn or 20 N´m (15 ft.
lbs.). Use filter wrench if necessary.
(4) Start engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 98 Engine Oil Cooler Hoses
1 - OIL COOLER INLET TUBE
2 - INLET HOSE
3 - OIL COOLER OUTLET TUBE
4 - OUTLET HOSE
5 - WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
Fig. 99 Engine Oil Cooler - 3.3/3.8L (Heavy Duty
Cooling)
1 - OIL FILTER ADAPTER
2 - CONNECTOR
3 - ENGINE OIL COOLER
4 - OIL COOLER ATTACHMENT FITTING
5 - OIL FILTER
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 141

SPECIAL TOOLS
EXHAUST SYSTEM
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION
The toe board three-way catalytic converter is con-
nected to the exhaust manifold by the use of flex
joint and a gasket. The outlet connects to the muffler
inlet pipe and is secured with a band type clamp
(Fig. 1).The exhaust flex-joint coupling (Fig. 3) is used to
secure the catalytic converter to the exhaust mani-
fold. The flex-joint has four bolts, four flag nuts and
a gasket that are separate parts from the exhaust
flex-joint. The flex-joint is welded to the catalytic
converter.
CAUTION: When servicing, care must be exercised
not to dent or bend the bellows or bellows cover of
the flex-joint. Should this occur, the flex-joint will
eventually fail and require the catalytic converter be
replaced.
OPERATION
The three-way catalytic converter simultaneously
converts three exhaust emissions into harmless
gases. Specifically, HC and CO emissions are con-
verted into water (H2O) and carbon dioxide (CO2).
Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) are converted into Nitrogen
(N) and Oxygen. The three-way catalyst is most effi-
cient in converting HC, CO and NOx at the stoichio-
metric air fuel ratio of 14.7:1.
The oxygen content in a catalyst is important for
efficient conversion of exhaust gases. When a high
oxygen content (lean) air/fuel ratio is present for an
extended period, oxygen content in a catalyst can
reach a maximum. When a rich air/fuel ratio is
present for an extended period, the oxygen content in
the catalyst can become totally depleted. When this
occurs, the catalyst fails to convert the gases. This is
known as catalyst9punch through.9
Back Pressure Test Adapter - CH8519
Pressure Transducer CH7063
DRB III & PEP Module - OT-CH6010A
Fig. 3 Flex-joint
1 - FLANGE
2 - END CAPS
3 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
4 - FLEXIBLE BELLOWS
11 - 4 EXHAUST SYSTEMRS
EXHAUST SYSTEM (Continued)

Read the fluid level through the side of the power
steering fluid reservoir. The fluid level should indi-
cateªFILL RANGEºwhen the fluid is at a temper-
ature of approximately 21ÉC to 27ÉC (70ÉF to 80ÉF).
(1) Wipe the filler cap and area clean, then remove
the cap.
(2) Fill the fluid reservoir to the proper level and
let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
(3) Start the engine and let run for a few seconds,
then turn the engine off.
(4) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above steps
until the fluid level remains constant after running
the engine.
(5) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(6) Start the engine.
(7) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left,
lightly contacting the wheel stops.
(8) Add fluid if necessary.
(9) Lower the vehicle, then turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock-to-lock.
(10) Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and
refill as required.
(11) If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehi-
cle to stabilize a few minutes, then repeat the above
procedure.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - PUMP (2.4L ENGINE)
(1) Remove the (-) negative battery cable from the
battery and isolate cable.
(2) Remove the cap from the power steering fluid
reservoir.
(3) Using a siphon pump, remove as much power
steering fluid as possible from the power steering
fluid reservoir.
(4) Raise the vehicle on jack stands or centered on
a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance.
(5) Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness at the rear engine
mount bracket.
NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be removed
from the engine to allow for an area to remove the
power steering pump from the vehicle.(6) Remove the four bolts and flag nuts securing
the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold
(Fig. 3).
(7) Disconnect all the exhaust system isolators/
hangers from the brackets on the exhaust system (2
at the mufflers and 1 at the resonator) (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the exhaust system by moving it as far
rearward, then lowering the front below the cross-
member and out of the vehicle.
(9) Remove the power steering fluid supply hose
from the fitting on the power steering pump. Drain
off excess power steering fluid from hose.
(10) Move the heat sleeve on the power steering
return hose to expose the hose connection at the
pump (Fig. 5). Remove the hose from the power
steering Pump. Allow the remaining power steering
fluid to drain from the power steering pump and res-
ervoir through the removed return hose.
(11) Remove the power steering fluid pressure line
from the power steering pump (Fig. 6). Drain excess
power steering fluid from tube.
Fig. 3 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
2 - BOLT
3 - GASKET
4 - FLAG NUT
19 - 38 PUMPRS
PUMP (Continued)

the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations (Refer to LUBRI-
CATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
23 - 2 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)

PLUMBING - FRONT
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: The system must be completely empty
before opening any fitting or connection in the
refrigeration system. Open fittings with caution
even after the system has been emptied. If any
pressure is noticed as a fitting is loosened,
retighten fitting and evacuate the system again.
The use of correct wrenches when making connec-
tions is very important. Improper wrenches or
improper use of wrenches can damage the fittings.
The internal parts of the A/C system will remain sta-
ble as long as moisture-free refrigerant and refrig-
erant oil is used. Abnormal amounts of dirt,
moisture or air can upset the chemical stability.
This may cause operational troubles or even seri-
ous damage if present in more than very small
quantities. Before disconnecting a refrigerant line
or hose, clean the outside of the fittings thoroughly
to prevent contamination from entering the refriger-
ant system.
When opening a refrigeration system, have every-
thing you will need to repair the system ready to
minimize the amount of time the system is opened.
Cap or plug all refrigerant line fittings as soon as
they are opened. This will help prevent the entrance
of dirt and moisture. All new lines and components
should be capped or sealed until they are ready to
be used. Before connecting a refrigerant line or
hose, clean the outside of the fittings thoroughly to
prevent contamination from entering the refrigerant
system.
All tools, including the refrigerant dispensing mani-
fold, manifold gauge set and test hoses should be
kept clean and dry.
The A/C refrigerant lines and hoses are used to
carry the refrigerant between the various A/C system
components. The refrigerant lines and hoses for the
R-134a system on this vehicle consist of a barrier-
hose design with a nylon tube sandwiched between
rubber layers. The nylon tube helps to contain the
R-134a refrigerant, which has a smaller molecular
structure than R-12 refrigerant. The ends of the
refrigerant lines are made from lightweight alumi-
num or steel, and commonly use braze-less fittings.Any kinks or sharp bends in the refrigerant lines
and hoses will reduce the capacity of the entire A/C
system and can reduce the flow of refrigerant in the
system. The radius of all bends in the flexible hose
refrigerant lines should be at least ten times the
diameter of the hose and the refrigerant lines should
be routed so they are at least 80 millimeters (3
inches) away from the exhaust manifold(s) and
exhaust pipe(s).
OPERATION
High pressures are produced in the refrigerant sys-
tem when the A/C compressor is operating. Extreme
care must be exercised to make sure that each of the
refrigerant system connections is pressure-tight and
leak free. It is a good practice to inspect all flexible
hose refrigerant lines at least once a year to make
sure they are in good condition and properly routed.
The refrigerant lines and hoses are coupled to
other A/C system components with block-type fit-
tings. An O-ring seal, or a flat steel gasket with an
integral O-ring (dual plane seal), is used to mate the
refrigerant line fittings with A/C system components
to ensure the integrity of the refrigerant system.
The refrigerant lines and hoses cannot be repaired
and, if faulty or damaged, they must be replaced.
WARNING
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM
WARNING: THE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IS
DESIGNED TO DEVELOP INTERNAL PRESSURES
OF 97 TO 123 KILOPASCALS (14 TO 18 POUNDS
PER SQUARE INCH). DO NOT REMOVE OR
LOOSEN THE COOLANT PRESSURE CAP, CYLIN-
DER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS, RADIATOR DRAIN,
RADIATOR HOSES, HEATER HOSES, OR HOSE
CLAMPS WHILE THE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IS
HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. FAILURE TO
OBSERVE THIS WARNING CAN RESULT IN SERI-
OUS BURNS FROM THE HEATED ENGINE COOL-
ANT. ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO COOL FOR A
MINIMUM OF 15 MINUTES BEFORE OPENING THE
COOLING SYSTEM FOR SERVICE.
RSPLUMBING - FRONT24-65

REMOVAL
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(1) Remove the HVAC housing (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/
HVAC HOUSING - REMOVAL).
(2) Disassemble the HVAC housing to access the
evaporator (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC HOUSING - DIS-
ASSEMBLY).
(3) Carefully lift the evaporator and its foam wrap
out of the lower half of the HVAC housing as a unit
(Fig. 15). Be certain not to lose the clam shell type
rubber seal that is fitted to the evaporator inlet and
outlet tubes where they exit the HVAC housing.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If the evaporator is being replaced, add 50
milliliters (1.7 fluid ounces) of refrigerant oil to the
refrigerant system. Use only refrigerant oil of the
type recommended for the A/C compressor in the
vehicle.
(1) Carefully lower the evaporator and its foam
wrap into the lower half of the HVAC housing as a
unit. Be certain that the clam shell type rubber seal
is fitted to the evaporator inlet and outlet tubes
where they exit the HVAC housing.
(2) Assemble the HVAC housing (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/
HVAC HOUSING - ASSEMBLY).
(3) Install the HVAC housing (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - INSTALLATION).
EXPANSION VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The front ªHº valve-type thermal expansion valve
(TXV) is located at the dash panel between the liquid
and suction lines, and the A/C evaporator. The
assembly consists of an aluminum H-valve body and
a thermal sensor. On RG models, the evaporator tem-
perature sensor is installed on the top of the expan-
sion valve.
OPERATION
High-pressure, low temperature liquid refrigerant
from the liquid line passes through the expansion
valve orifice, converting it into a low-pressure, low-
temperature mixture of liquid and gas before it
enters the evaporator coil. A mechanical sensor in the
expansion valve control head monitors the tempera-
ture and pressure of the refrigerant leaving the evap-
orator coil through the suction line, and adjusts the
orifice size at the liquid line to let the proper amount
of refrigerant into the evaporator coil to meet the
vehicle cooling requirements. Controlling the refriger-
ant flow through the A/C evaporator ensures that
none of the refrigerant leaving the evaporator is still
in a liquid state, which could damage the compressor.
The A/C expansion valve is a factory calibrated
unit and cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if faulty
or damaged, it must be replaced.
Fig. 15 HVAC Housing - LHD Shown, RHD Typical
1 - LOWER HVAC HOUSING
2 - UPPER HVAC HOUSING
3 - BLOWER MOTOR AND WHEEL
4 - A/C EVAPORATOR
RSPLUMBING - FRONT24-81
A/C EVAPORATOR (Continued)

(7) Remove the bolt that secures the liquid line
rear section fitting to the top of the receiver/drier.
(8) Disconnect the liquid line fitting from the
receiver/drier outlet port.
(9) Remove the seal from the liquid line fitting and
discard.
(10) Install plugs in, or tape over the opened liquid
line fitting and the receiver/drier outlet port.
(11) Remove the two nuts that secure the receiver/
drier mounting bracket to the weld studs on the side
of the right front strut tower.
(12) Remove the receiver/drier and mounting
bracket unit from the studs.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If the receiver/drier is being replaced, add 25
milliliters (0.8 fluid ounce) of refrigerant oil to the
refrigerant system. Use only refrigerant oil of the
type recommended for the A/C compressor in the
vehicle.(1) Position the receiver/drier and mounting
bracket unit onto the weld studs on the side of the
right front strut tower.
(2) Install the two nuts that secure the receiver/
drier mounting bracket to the studs. Tighten the
nuts to 10 N´m (89 in. lbs.).
(3) Remove the tape or plugs from the liquid line
rear section fitting for the receiver/drier and the
receiver/drier outlet port.
(4) Lubricate a new rubber O-ring seal with clean
refrigerant oil and install it on the liquid line fitting.
(5) Reconnect the liquid line fitting to the receiver/
drier outlet port on the top of the receiver/drier.
(6) Install the bolt that secures the liquid line fit-
ting to the receiver/drier. Tighten the bolt to 11 N´m
(97 in. lbs.).
(7) Remove the tape or plugs from the liquid line
front section fitting for the receiver/drier and the
receiver/drier inlet port.
(8) Lubricate a new rubber O-ring seal with clean
refrigerant oil and install it on the liquid line fitting.
(9) Reconnect the liquid line fitting to the receiver/
drier inlet port on the top of the receiver/drier.
(10) Install the bolt that secures the liquid line fit-
ting to the receiver/drier. Tighten the bolt to 11 N´m
(97 in. lbs.).
(11) Reinstall the air cleaner housing into the
right side of the engine compartment.
(12) Evacuate the refrigerant system (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
FRONT/REFRIGERANT - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM EVACUATE).
(13) Charge the refrigerant system (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING -
FRONT/REFRIGERANT - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM CHARGE).
REFRIGERANT
DESCRIPTION
The refrigerant used in this air conditioning sys-
tem is a HydroFluoroCarbon (HFC), type R-134a.
Unlike R-12, which is a ChloroFluoroCarbon (CFC),
R-134a refrigerant does not contain ozone-depleting
chlorine. R-134a refrigerant is a non-toxic, non-flam-
mable, clear, and colorless liquefied gas. Even though
R-134a does not contain chlorine, it must be
reclaimed and recycled just like CFC-type refriger-
ants. This is because R-134a is a greenhouse gas and
can contribute to global warming.
Fig. 30 Reciever/Drier - LHD Shown, RHD Typical
1 - A/C GROUND STRAP (IF EQUIPPED)
2 - NUT (IF EQUIPPED)
3 - WELD STUD (IF EQUIPPED)
4 - A/C PRESSURE TRANSDUCER
5 - WELD STUD (2)
6 - A/C EXPANSION VALVE
7 - A/C LIQUID LINE (REAR SECTION)
8 - LIQUID LINE EXTENSION (REAR A/C ONLY)
9 - NUT (2)
10 - RECEIVER/DRIER
11 - ROUTING CLIP
12 - A/C LIQUID LINE (FRONT SECTION)
RSPLUMBING - FRONT24-93
RECEIVER / DRIER (Continued)

(9) Remove the evaporator line extension seal
plate from the expansion valve stud.
(10) Remove the evaporator line extension from
the expansion valve and the rear HVAC housing
base.
(11) Remove the seals from the evaporator line
extension fittings and discard.
(12) Install plugs in, or tape over the opened evap-
orator line extension fittings and both expansion
valve ports.
INSTALLATION
REAR A/C EVAPORATOR
NOTE: If the rear A/C evaporator is being replaced,
add 50 milliliters (1.7 fluid ounces) of refrigerant oil
to the refrigerant system. Use only refrigerant oil of
the type recommended for the A/C compressor in
the vehicle.
(1) Carefully lower the rear A/C evaporator and its
foam wrap into the lower half of the rear HVAC
housing.
(2) Position the upper half of the rear HVAC hous-
ing onto the lower half.
(3) Install the three metal spring clips that secure
the upper half of the rear HVAC housing to the lower
half.
(4) Install the three screws that secure the upper
half of the rear HVAC housing to the lower half.
Tighten the screws to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the rubber grommet that seals the evap-
orator inlet and outlet tubes to the rear HVAC hous-
ing near the expansion valve.
(6) Reinstall the rear expansion valve onto the
rear A/C evaporator (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - REAR/EXPANSION
VALVE - INSTALLATION).
(7) Reinstall the rear evaporator extension line
onto the expansion valve (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - REAR/EVAPO-
RATOR - INSTALLATION - EVAPORATOR EXTEN-
SION LINE).
(8) Reinstall the rear HVAC housing into the vehi-
cle (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
DISTRIBUTION - REAR/REAR HEATER-A/C
HOUSING - INSTALLATION).
REAR A/C EVAPORATOR LINE EXTENSION
(1) Remove the tape or plugs from the evaporator
line extension fittings and both expansion valve
ports.
(2) Lubricate new rubber O-ring seals with clean
refrigerant oil and install them on the evaporator
line extension fittings.(3) Position the evaporator line extension to the
expansion valve and the rear HVAC housing base.
(4) Position the evaporator line extension seal
plate over the expansion valve stud.
(5) Install the nut that secures the evaporator line
extension seal plate to the expansion valve stud.
Tighten the nut to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(6) Position the expansion valve bracket over the
expansion valve stud.
(7) Install the two screws that secure the expan-
sion valve bracket to the lower rear HVAC housing.
Tighten the screws to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(8) Install the nut that secures the expansion
valve bracket to the expansion valve stud. Tighten
the nut to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(9) Carefully restore the expansion valve foam
insulator wrap back around the expansion valve.
(10) Position the plate that captures and seals the
evaporator line extension onto the rear HVAC hous-
ing base.
(11) Install the screw that secures the capture
plate to the base of the rear HVAC housing. Tighten
the screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(12) Install the rear HVAC housing into the vehi-
cle (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
DISTRIBUTION/HVAC HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
A/C EXPANSION VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The rear ªHº valve-type thermal expansion valve
(TXV) is located at the rear of the rear HVAC hous-
ing between the evaporator line extension and the
evaporator coil. High-pressure, low temperature liq-
uid refrigerant from the liquid line passes through
the expansion valve orifice, converting it into a low-
pressure, low-temperature mixture of liquid and gas
before it enters the evaporator coil.
OPERATION
A mechanical sensor in the expansion valve control
head monitors the temperature and pressure of the
refrigerant leaving the evaporator coil through the
suction line, and adjusts the orifice size at the liquid
line to let the proper amount of refrigerant into the
evaporator coil to meet the vehicle cooling require-
ments. Controlling the refrigerant flow through the
evaporator ensures that none of the refrigerant leav-
ing the evaporator is still in a liquid state, which
could damage the compressor.
The rear A/C expansion valve cannot be adjusted
or repaired and, if faulty or damaged, it must be
replaced.
24 - 100 PLUMBING - REARRS
A/C EVAPORATOR (Continued)